Flowering annuals for shady summer gardens
Bacopa Abunda Colossal 'White' Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyWe have all heard friends bemoan the fact that their yard is mostly shady and "nothing will grow, not even grass!" Let's face it, gardening in shade can be daunting at first, and is often viewed with despair by those endeavouring to maintain a shade garden, especially if they happen to be trying to grow plants that will not do well there. But, rest assured it’s all a matter of determining how much shade your plants will receive, enriching the soil, and choosing the right plants.
A properly planned shade garden possesses a charm of its own, with quiet harmonies of light, colour, form and texture that are so different in character from its sunny counterpart, and in our hot climate nothing beats a shady corner of garden, filled with quiet tranquillity, sweet scents and cool breezes.
The varying degrees of shade
When gardening in the shade it’s good to bear in mind that there are varying degrees of shade. For example, under large spreading trees you will get varying degrees of shade from semi-shade to deep shade near the trunk where almost nothing will grow. Therefore, it's important to have a clear understanding of the type of shade your garden bed receives before selecting your plants.
Observe how much shade your bed receives, how dense the shade is, and at what time of the day the bed is shaded. Make sure that shade plants are always protected from the fierce midday and afternoon sun, this is especially important in very hot regions.
The shady parts of the garden are usually under trees or next to walls. Trees rob the soil of both nutrients and water, and even when it rains, very dense trees will prevent the rain from reaching the soil underneath. The rest of the garden might be wet, but the plants underneath trees will still need to be irrigated. Soil next to walls may not be impoverished but is also often dry after rainfall, so pay some extra attention to plants growing there as well. For all the reasons above, you may even have to water your shade garden more frequently than your full sun garden.
Some shade-tolerant plants are adapted to dry shade situations, while others require moist shade. The terms “damp shade” and “dry shade” refer to the moisture content of the soil, not the type of shade itself. Dry shade is the more challenging to work with, so if this is what you have click here to read my article “Gardening in dry shade”. articles/shade-gardens/gardening-in-dry-shade
Group plants according to their watering needs
Group plants that require lots of water together and those that require less water together. Irrigation systems water all the plants in the area equally, so decide how much water your bed will receive before choosing your plants.
In summer you may only have to water every few days, but when you do, water thoroughly and deeply. Light sprinklings every day do more harm than good.
A shade garden under trees requires regular feeding
Regular foliar feeding (spraying food directly onto the leaves) is by far the best and the most effective method, as the food is absorbed directly into the plant. Granular fertilisers can also be applied, starting in spring, followed by one or two further applications during the growing season. Feeding and replenishing your beds with a fresh layer of compost and mulch each spring will ensure that your plants have sufficient food to keep them healthy and growing.
In woodland situations where the trees have spreading roots, planting into pots is often the only option, and the advantage of pots is that they can be moved around to accommodate pruning and other maintenance.
Selecting your plants
Determining which plants to select is probably the most important and exciting part of your project. Do not rush this stage of your garden design, and research as many plants as you can before deciding on your final selection. Remember to choose plants that you like, but most importantly, select those that will suit the site best, so do your homework first and your shade garden is bound to be a resounding success.
Click here to find my e-book “Gardening in the Shade”
Summer flowering annuals for shade
I hope this list of flowering plants will inspire you to jazz-up your summer shade garden.
Alyssum Alyssum
If you have garden beds that receive full sun and some parts which are a bit more shady Alyssum would be perfect to use as it thrives in full sun but still performs well in light shade. It also grows well in the sandy soils of coastal gardens.
Alyssum is a compact, low-growing plant about 15cm tall and spreads about 20 to 25cm. It remains one of the most popular summer bedding plants because it is low maintenance, long flowering and very easy to grow all year round. Its honey scented flower spikes are available in lovely in shades of pink, rose, purple, mauve, white and yellow.
Use it as an edging plant in the garden, and the free-flowering plants are also great in hanging baskets and containers, mixing effortlessly with other flowering plants for months of colour.
Members can click here to read more about Alyssum
AquilegiaAquilegia, Columbine
These beautiful perennial plants remain firm favourites to plant in shade gardens because they start flowering in late spring and continue into summer. Their attractive fern-like leaves are a perfect foil for the exotic- looking flowers, which are available in shades of pink, red, blue, violet, rose and burgundy, white, yellow and orange.
There are very compact dwarf varieties that grow 13 to 20 cm tall, and the larger varieties vary from 40 to 75cm tall. Aquilegias grow in semi-shade to partial sun and are hardy to frost, but are not suited to humid or very dry regions.
Modern hybrids thrive in warmer climates like South Africa, and the plants will flower within 28 to 34 weeks after sowing seed, whereas older varieties will take two seasons to mature and flower, so if you are impatient, purchase trays of seedlings or even instant colour pots, where the plants are already in bloom.
Aquilegias give a beautiful effect if planted in drifts in woodland gardens, and the dwarf varieties are perfect for planting in pots and window boxes.
Members can click here to read more about Aquilegias
Bedding Begonias Begonias
Begonias are truly the backbone of the flower garden and bloom all season long, until the first frosts, and in warm climates they can bloom all year round, and are available in various shapes and sizes.
Small compact plants like Begonia ‘Baby Wings’ and Begonia ‘Planet’ are perfect for flower borders and come in green or bronze foliage, and blooms in various shades of pink, red and white.
The taller growing types like Begonia ‘Big’, Begonia ‘Bossa Nova’ and Begonia ‘Megawatt’ with their large red or pink flowers make a bold statement in the garden when planted in large drifts, and are stunning in large containers and hanging baskets.
The larger upright to trailing types of Begonia like ‘Dragon Wings’ are hard to beat in containers and hanging baskets.
Although begonias will grow in quite a lot of shade they flower best in positions where they receive dappled or bright shade. Varieties with green leaves will tolerate more shade than those with bronze leaves. In deep shade the plants will become leggy and less floriferous.
Members can click here to read more about the various garden Begonias
Browalia 'Bell Blue' Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyBrowallia, Bush Violet
Browalia is a lovely mounded, sprawling plant which is related to petunias, and flowers just as profusely all summer and into late autumn. Hybrid varieties are available in vibrant shades of purple, blue, violet or white, and are cultivated as a summer annuals, growing quickly to around 25 to 35cm tall.
It grows beautifully outdoors in sheltered positions, and its sprawling habit lends itself to hanging baskets, window boxes and containers of all kinds, where it can spill over the edges
Browalia grows well at the coast and inland, taking both heat and humidity. It does best in a warm, bright, semi-shaded position, or morning sun. In very hot and dry regions midday shade is essential. Also, ensure that it is sited where it is protected from strong winds.
Members can click here to read more about Browalia
ColeusColeus, Painted Nettle
Coleus is cultivated in shady gardens worldwide because it is durable and easy to grow. Hybridization has produced compact, dwarf varieties, and an almost infinite number of leaf shapes and colour combinations which include most colours of the spectrum, except true blue.
The lower growing dwarf varieties will create a colourful border, while the taller types provide a dramatic background planting, livening up any corner of the garden they are planted in. Coleus is also the perfect container candidate, so fill your balcony boxes, hanging baskets and pots with them.
Most varieties prefer bright semi-shade and good, moist, well-drained soil. Plants grown in too much sun may wilt, and those grown in too much shade may become leggy.
Members can click here to read more about Coleus
Forget-me-notForget-me-not
This charming plant is treated as a spring and summer flowering annual in South Africa, and produces an abundance of tiny azure-blue flower spikes. It grows quickly to about 20cm tall and 15cm wide, and has small hairy, green leaves.
Forget-me-not seed is sown directly into prepared garden beds in spring. Germination can take 7 to 14 days and the plants should bloom within 90 days.
Even though the individual flowers are very small, the overall effect is a lovely carpeted effect in the garden which is the mainstay of the English cottage garden, and Forget-me-not's also blend beautifully with bulbs. Plant them in rock and pebble gardens, in woodland gardens and as a border plant.
Forget-me-not grows throughout SA but is sensitive to humidity. Although it can be planted in semi-shade or sun, in hot and dry regions it must be grown in semi-shade, and it must be watered regularly throughout summer.
Members can click here to read more about Forget-me-not
Foxglove 'Dwarf Foxy' Mix Picture courtesy Ball StraathofFoxglove
Seedlings of modern foxglove varieties that bloom in their first year are usually planted out in spring or autumn. The main bloom time is in spring and early summer but occasionally additional flower stems are produced later in the season, especially if the main flower stalks are cut after blooming.
There are many cultivars available which vary in height, but most of the modern strains are quite compact and grow about 60 to 90cm tall and 25 to 30cm wide.
Foxgloves are particularly effective when planted in groups to bring dramatic and richly coloured vertical accents to garden beds and borders, and they make excellent cut flowers if picked when the blooms are half open.
Foxgloves prefer cool climatic conditions where rainfall is good. They will grow in semi-shade to sun, but in regions where it gets hot very early in summer, its best to plant them in a cool position. They are hardy to cold and frost, but also do well in sheltered coastal gardens.
Members can click here to read more about Foxgloves
New Guinea ImpatiensImpatiens, Busy Lizzy
Gardeners have relied on the common old Busy Lizzy Impatiens for generations for their ease of growth in difficult shady areas, and their wide range of colours. Busy Lizzy thrives in semi-shade to light sunshine, and in hotter regions they will need protection from the fierce midday sun and excessive winds, which will cause the flowers and leaves to scorch.
Today gardeners are spoilt for choice when it comes to Impatiens, and breeders continue to surprise us with brilliant new garden hybrids.
The irresistible 'New Guinea Impatiens' is taller growing than the common Busy Lizzie, with large flowers in vibrant colours, and often with colourfully variegated leaves. And, although they can take a lot more sun than ordinary Impatiens, they still need some shade, especially in very hot and dry regions. 'New Guinea Impatiens love full morning sun or bright shade throughout the day, and really don't like total shade. In very hot regions, protect them from the fierce midday sun and excessive winds, which will cause the flowers and leaves to scorch.
Today we are also blessed with 'Sunpatiens' which grows in full sun or semi-shade, and even thrives in hot, humid weather, greatly expanding the area in which Impatiens can be grown in South Africa.
Members can click here to read more about Impatiens
LobeliaLobelia
Lobelia has been bred to produce a profusion of tiny flowers in shades of blue, lilac, purple, pink, carmine and white. Some varieties have bronzy foliage and others bright green leaves. These easy-to-grow little plants deserve a place in every garden, large or small.
They vary slightly in height but the modern varieties are very compact and will grow about 15cm tall, making them invaluable edging plants, and because of their dainty, compact growth, are perfect combined with bulbs.
The cascading varieties produce billowing masses of flowers up to 30cm long and are favourites to mix with other plants in hanging baskets and containers.
Lobelia can be grown almost throughout the year in South Africa and is semi-hardy to moderate frost. It will grow in semi-shade or full sun but in hot regions the plants do better if planted in semi-shade. Water regularly, especially in dry regions and plant in good, well-drained soil.
Members can click here to read more about Lobelia
Mimulus 'Magic Blotch' MixMimulus, Monkey Flower
These cheerful and rewarding little plants are moisture loving and thrive in semi-shade, making them ideal to plant at water-side margins, and in moist areas of the garden. They are also stunning if planted into hanging baskets, window boxes and pots, or as a border to the flower garden.
Monkey Flowers grow about 30cm tall and 25cm wide but there is a smaller variety that only grows about 15cm tall. Their gay summer flowers are available in single or mixed shades of bright scarlet, pink, white, yellow, ivory, and orange, and there are clear and bi-colours available.
Monkey Flowers are tender to frost and are generally grown as summer annuals in South Africa. They do extremely well in the summer rainfall regions and are not suited to very hot, dry, or humid regions. Plant in semi-shade, and protect them from the hot midday sun.
Members can click here to read more about Mimulus
Hypoestes Mix. Picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurseryPolka Dot Plant
Polka dot plants have tons of personality and their brightly spotted leaves stand out in the crowd. They grow just as easily in bright light indoors as they do outdoors.
New garden cultivars are very compact and bushy, growing to a height of about 20cm and spreading 15cm, and there are several spotted or mottled varieties available in shades of blush, pink, rose, red, and white. In summer the bushes may produce tiny, solitary pink or purple flowers at the nodes, and the fruit is a many-seeded capsule which splits open to release the seeds.
In subtropical regions the plant is a spreading perennial, which may become quite rampant. In cold and frosty regions it is grown outdoors as a summer annual, and is planted once all danger of frost is over.
These plants are not especially difficult to grow, but require a protected spot in the garden where they will receive filtered bright light, but not too much direct sunlight which can burn the leaves.
Polka dot plants are perfect little ‘filler’ plants for mixed plantings in garden beds or pots, and are used to accentuate parts of the garden in much the same way as flowers would
Members can click here to read more about Polka Dot Plants
SalviaSalvia
The beautiful Salvia splendens is available in vibrantly coloured flower spikes, from bright red to pink, purple, scarlet, rose, cream, and white. Tall and dwarf varieties are available ranging in height from 15 to 90cm tall.
Although salvias can be grown in full sun, in our hot climate they do very well in full morning sun or partial shade. In areas with very hot summers, protect them from the harsh midday sun.
If watered well they will flower all summer and autumn. Cut your plants back after each flush of flowers and new growth will soon emerge, keeping them blooming continually.
The taller varieties will add accent to flowerbeds, and the dwarf varieties make excellent border plants and work well in containers, mixed with other summer flowering annuals.
Members can click here to read more about Salvia
Bacopa Sutera, Bacopa
Sutera remain firm favourites with gardeners for their ease of growth and profusion of flowers throughout spring and summer. This short lived perennial plant is tender to frost and is most often grown as a summer annual. It can be grown both inland and at the coast.
Sutera are vigorous low-growing plants which can spread 50 to 60cm, while only reaching a height of 15 to 20cm. Plant breeders have developed many new and improved strains which not only flower even more profusely, but also have larger blooms. Sutera are available in beautifully delicate shades of blue and pink, to lavender and white, with some varieties even sporting lovely yellow foliage.
They are perfect to plant in hanging baskets, window boxes and pots for a colourful summer display. Planted in mass they make a wonderful groundcover and will stabilise the soil on slopes. They also make lovely rockery and edging plants for the garden.
Members can click here to read more about Sutera
ToreniaTorenia, Wishbone Flower
These delightful flowers have an intense colour range, from light and dark blue, to burgundy, pink, lavender and white, and they will bloom consistently all summer, and through autumn until the first frosts.
Torenia are wonderful edging plants and if planted in groups will make a charming display. They are also very showy in window boxes, pots and hanging baskets, as long as you don't allow them to dry out.
Torenia can take heat, humidity and shade, and there are not many annuals that can accomplish that! They do not like very much hot sun and require rich well-drained soil and regular watering, especially during hot, dry periods. They will grow quickly to about 20cm tall and 15cm wide
Trays of seedlings are sold at some nurseries and seeds are also available. Seed can be sown in seedling trays in spring and early summer. Germination will take 7 to 18 days, and flowering will start about 12 to 14 weeks after sowing. Grow your seedlings in a cool place.
Summer flowering annuals for shady gardens
Bacopa Abunda Colossal 'White' Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyWe have all heard friends bemoan the fact that their yard is mostly shady and "nothing will grow, not even grass!" Let's face it, gardening in shade can be daunting at first, and is often viewed with despair by those endeavouring to maintain a shade garden, especially if they happen to be trying to grow plants that will not do well there. But, rest assured it’s all a matter of determining how much shade your plants will receive, enriching the soil, and choosing the right plants.
Finger Lime, Caviar Lime - Citrus
Finger Lime 'Colette' Picture courtesy Just Berry PlantsDescription, History & Interesting Facts:
Where do finger limes come from?
The Australian finger lime or caviar lime (Citrus australasica) is native to the lowland subtropical and coastal rainforests in the border regions of Queensland and New South Wales. The First Peoples living along the east coast of Australia ate finger limes for thousands of years, and the early settlers also valued the fruit for its high vitamin C content, and did not clear these trees for agriculture.
Because finger limes are endemic to Australia and grow wild nowhere else in the world, they have always been a popular wild fruit for homestead’s there, as they can be used fresh, pickled, made into marmalade, and even the peel can be dried and used as a flavouring spice.
By the mid 1990’s ‘boutique’ marmalades and pickles were sold from wild harvested fruit, and finger limes soon became popularised as a gourmet bushfood because of their burst of tangy flavour, and within 10 years the finger lime was being sold in restaurants around Australia, and was exported fresh.
Like many other citrus, finger limes also have thorns, but their leaves are tiny, and they form intricately branched, prickly shrubs that are more open and less lush in effect than your usual citrus tree. New growth is purple in colour, and in their native habitat they can grow anything from 2 to 7m tall.
Finger Lime Picture courtesy Forest and Kim Starr from flickrFlowering and harvesting times
If grown under optimal conditions finger limes can bloom and produce fruit year round. Their main flowering and fruiting season in South Africa seems to vary according to climate and cultivar. Masses of small, pale pink to white blossoms smother the bushes during their main flowering season, which can be anytime from late summer (February) to autumn (May), and are followed in winter and spring by very slow-growing fruits which only mature later in summer, and even autumn.
The slow growing fruits hang down in small bunches from the branches looking similar in appearance to small cucumbers. The fruits are roughly the size of an average person’s index finger, but fruit from juvenile trees can be less than 2.5cm long.
Finger limes are best harvested when fully ripe and when the fruit simply falls off in your hand with the softest tug.
Finger Lime Cultivars:
In Australia, research on finger limes started in the 1970’s and great progress has been made, resulting in exciting new cultivars which are highly resistant to Phytophthora citrophthora root disease and Citrus greening disease.
Today the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO), an Australian Government agency which works with leading organisations around the world, and which is responsible for scientific research and its commercial and industrial applications, has developed several hybrids by crossing the finger lime with standard Citrus species.
These hybrids have created many cultivars of finger limes with unique skin colours, and pearl colours in various shades of green, including pale lime-green, pale pink, coral, and scarlet, and each finger lime also has its own distinct flavour.
Finger limes are steadily gaining popularity in South Africa, and several cultivars are now available for garden cultivation.
Finger Lime ‘Pink Champagne’
‘Pink Champagne’ has black to burgundy red skin when fully ripe, and striking pink pearls that taste of sweet lemon with raspberry nodes. It can grow between 1.6 to 3m tall.
Finger Lime ‘Colette’
‘Colette’ features black skin when fully ripe, and bright green pearls with a great balance between sweetness and acidity. It can grow between 1.6 to 3m tall.
In the Kitchen:
The fruit of the Australian finger lime is sought after by top restaurants around the world. The little pearls are fantastic for garnishing cocktails, desserts and canapes, and delicious paired with oysters or salmon, chicken dishes, and in Thai salads.
The taste is a bit different, but you can substitute finger limes for most recipes that call for lime or even ruby grapefruit segments. L like that of a Kumquat, the skin is edible too, and actually has more flavour than the fruit, so you can slice the limes across and use them to make marmalade.
Health Benefits:
Finger limes have been used medicinally by Aboriginal people for thousands of years. They were eaten to ward off disease and the pulp and juice of the fruit was used as an antiseptic by rubbing it onto infected skin sores and boils.
Today we know that finger limes are packed with nutritional benefits. Each fruit contains three times the amount of vitamin C than is present in a mandarin, and it is also a potent source of potassium, folate, and vitamin E. The presence of vitamin E also makes the fruit a powerful antioxidant.
In the Garden:
Finger limes, along with other citrus, make good hedges and espalier well against fences and walls.
It is also an attractive small tree, growing up to 7m and providing a perfect habitat for small birds.
Because finger limes become very dense and spiny with about one thorn set in every leaf axil, they make wonderful barriers to keep animals or intruders away, and if space is limited or you live in a cold winter region, they will thrive in a pot.
Finger Lime 'Pink Champagne' Picture courtesy Molly from flickrCultivation:
In cultivation the finger lime plant is grown in much the same way as other citrus species.
Do you need cross-pollinators for finger lime trees?
The flowers are self-fertile and require no cross-pollination, but as with other self-fertile fruits the trees will often provide a better harvest when cross-pollination occurs.
Are finger limes hardy to cold?
As a tropical rainforest species, finger limes won’t handle heavy frosts, but they will tolerate light frosts. In these regions they can be planted in a warm and sheltered part of the garden. In very cold regions the plants will need to be covered if temperatures drop lower than -5ºC, or they can be planted in a pot which can be covered or moved to a sheltered spot in winter.
Do finger limes grow in coastal gardens?
They do well in coastal gardens if planted in a position sheltered from strong winds.
How much sun do finger limes require?
Although finger limes love warmth and sunshine, they will also do well in semi-shade.
What soil type do finger limes need?
They grow in a wide range of well drained soils with a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6 and 7.
Plant your finger lime tree at the proper depth
Planting your citrus tree at the proper depth is the most important factor. Plant the tree too low and the trunk will stay wet, and this will encourage bark diseases. Plant it too high and the root ball will dry out too quickly and not enough moisture will get to the tree.
Young trees must be planted in deeply dug, well-drained soil with added compost, but no fertiliser. Newly planted trees should not be fertilised until they start showing new growth.
Provide adequate support for the tree as it grows, and bark mulch is recommended around the plant base to help retain moisture and suppress weed growth. Keep mulch and fertiliser well way from the main stem.
How to feed finger lime trees?
Feed 3 times per year, in July, December and March with a fertiliser for flowering and fruiting plants.
How to water finger lime trees?
During the summer months, established trees growing in the garden can be watered deeply about every 7 to 10 days, and in winter every 2 to 3 weeks. Water well during dry, warm weather, or they may prematurely drop their flowers or developing fruit.
Potted specimens will need to be checked more frequently for watering than those growing in the ground.
Members can click here to read a more in-depth article on how to cultivate and care for the various types of Citrus cultivated in home gardens, including problems, pests & diseases of Citrus.Kumquat, Round Kumquat - Citrus
Kumquats Image by Davide Tirindelli from PixabayDescription, History & Interesting Facts:
Kumquats (Citrus japonica) are beautiful ornamental trees with miniature fruits that closely resemble the orange (Citrus x sinensis). Because the sweetly fragrant white flowers appear on the trees from spring and through summer, and the fruits mature in late winter, holding well on the tree, kumquats are grown for their ornamental value as well as their culinary uses.
This small, slow growing fruit tree is very popular in China, where the term “kumquat” actually means 'golden orange' in Mandarin, in reference to the small orange fruits. With its sweet rind and tangy flesh the fruit can be eaten skin and all. The branches bear very few thorns and the glossy evergreen leaves look good all year round, and when the clusters of dainty white blossoms open they fill the air with a sweet scent.
Where do kumquats originate from?
The kumquat is native to Southern China, with references to the plant appearing in Chinese literature from around the 12th century. The plants have been cultivated for centuries in other parts of East Asia, South Asia, and Southeast Asia, and are a symbol of good luck in several Asian cultures.
In 1846 kumquats were introduced into Europe by Robert Fortune, collector for the London Horticultural Society, and today they are cultivated across the world, but there is still confusion around the classification of some species. For example, the Round Kumquat (Citrus japonica), also called the “Marumi Kumquat”, was first described by Carl Peter Thunberg in 1780 as (Fortunella japonica) but is now often classified as (Citrus japonica). Different classifications have alternatively assigned kumquats anywhere from a single species, Citrus japonica, to numerous species representing each cultivar.
Kumquat 'Nagami'Kumquat Varieties
Today kumquats are grafted to improve vigour and pest resistance. Dwarf varieties are created by grafting the growing plant onto a dwarf rootstock. This produces smaller plants but does not affect the size or quality of the fruit.
Kumquat Nagami, Oval Kumquat (Citrus margarita)
The most distinctive features of Kumquat Nagami is its oblong or oval fruit of good size, and the deep colour and pronounced flavour of both the flesh and the rind, though the rind oil is somewhat more pronounced than in other kumquats.
Nagami is a compact and bushy tree, typically growing 1.8 to 3.5m tall making it suitable for container growing or small gardens. In the ground it can grow to a height of between 2 and 4m. If pruned annually it can remain between 1 and 1.2m tall, making it an excellent choice to grow in a container or small garden.
Kumquat Dwarf Meiwa, Round Kumquat (Citrus japonica ‘Meiwa’)
Dwarf Meiwa grows to a height of between 1.5 and 2 metres and produces small round fruits with thin, deliciously sweet skins. If pruned annually it can remain between 1 and 1.2m tall, making it an excellent choice to grow in a container or small garden.
If you are growing it in a pot, choose one at least 50cm in diameter and depth. Repot the tree every 2-3 years to refresh the soil and accommodate growth. Dwarf kumquat trees will benefit from 2 to 5cm of pine bark mulch. The mulch protects the roots from UV damage and drying out, retains moisture, and maintains an optimal pH. Do not let the mulch touch the plant stem, as it may cause infection or rot.
Members can click here to read my article: “How to grow fruit trees in small spaces”
Health Benefits:
Kumquats have lots of vitamin C, fibre, antioxidants, and a little vitamin A. They are free of cholesterol and low in sodium, making them a really healthy and tasty snack.
Preserved Kumquats Picture by Jean Weber from flickrIn the Kitchen:
Ripening in winter, the best tasting kumquat varieties have edible skins and flesh, and are sweet enough to eat fresh, served with salads, or juiced for a refreshing drink. They are renowned for making wonderful marmalade, and can be candied and preserved whole.
Kumquats can be used in various culinary applications, as their sweet and tangy flavour makes them a great addition to many sweet or savoury dishes.
Search for Kumquat recipes online and be inspired by what you can do with these little fruits.
In the Garden:
Kumquats are valuable garden ornamentals that can be planted in garden beds or pots. Standard plants look wonderful planted in tubs, and the new compact dwarf cultivars grow beautifully in pots or in the ground, and can be used in even the tiniest of gardens.
In cultivation in the United Kingdom Citrus japonica has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Members can click here to read my article “How to grow fruit trees in small spaces”
Kumquat 'Meiwa' Cultivation:
Do you need pollinators for Kumquats?
Kumquat trees are self-pollinating, so you only need one tree to bear fruit.
Are Kumquats hardy to cold?
Unlike other citrus fruits like oranges, established kumquats are known to withstand winter temperatures as low as -7°C. However, temperatures between -3°C to -5°C are more acceptable, and if they drop lower it is advised that you protect the plants, as extreme cold will set them back.
In cold regions you can grow kumquats in a very sheltered part of the garden, or in large pots on warm patios. Cover young plants in winter with a frost protection cover until they are established.
Do Kumquats grow in coastal gardens?
Kumquats do well in coastal gardens if planted in a position sheltered from strong winds.
How much sun do Kumquats require?
Citrus trees grow, flower and bear best in full sun positions, but will take some shade.
What soil type do Kumquats need?
Kumquats will adapt to most garden soils that drain well, as they do not like waterlogged roots. They do not do well in saline (salty) soils, growing well in fertile soils with a neutral pH range from 6 to 8.
Plant your Kumquat tree at the proper depth
Planting citrus at the proper depth is the most important factor. Plant the tree too low and the trunk will stay wet, and this will encourage bark diseases. Plant it too high and the root ball will dry out too quickly and not enough moisture will get to the tree. Dig the hole, and before removing the plant from its nursery bag, check to see that the planting depth will be at the same level as it is currently in the bag, then remove and plant.
How to feed kumquat trees?
Young citrus trees must be planted in deeply dug soil with added compost but no fertiliser. Newly planted trees should only be fertilised when they start showing new growth.
Established trees require moderately heavy nutrients, and even on very fertile soils they will require feeding after a few heavy crops. Feed three times a year in July, December and March with a balanced fertiliser that has high nitrogen and medium potassium levels, 8:1:5 is fine for the home gardener. Mature citrus trees should receive enough nitrogen to provide good, healthy leaf coverage, but not excessive leaf growth.
In addition, give established trees 75g of Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) three times a year.
Never apply fertiliser close to the trunk and spread it uniformly on the soil surface under the tree canopy, extending out to slightly to beyond the drip line. Water it in thoroughly.
Potted specimens will need more frequent feeding than those growing in the soil.
How much water do Kumquats need?
How often you need to water your kumquats will depend on the composition of the soil, how well it drains, and rainfall. Newly planted trees will require regular watering until they are established.
Once established, the trees may tolerate some drought, but the quality of the fruit will be affected. Be careful not to overwater, as overwatering can be just as much of a problem as not watering enough.
During the growing season you can water your trees thoroughly and then allow them to dry out before re-watering. During the summer months, established trees growing in the garden can be watered deeply about every 7 to 10 days, and in winter every 2 to 3 weeks. Water well during dry, warm weather, or they may prematurely drop their flowers or developing fruit.
Potted specimens will need to be checked more frequently for watering than those growing in the ground.
Harvesting:
The flowering season for kumquats is summer and the fruits mature in late winter, holding well on the tree. They must be allowed to ripen on the tree before being picked, which may take weeks, and the only way to know if they’re ready is to sample one. The fruits will begin to fall from the tree when they are overripe.
Pruning:
Kumquat trees don’t require pruning except to cut away any long, skinny branches growing straight up and all damaged or dead wood, or if you just want to keep the plant smaller. Prune after fruiting, and before it blooms in spring.
Calamondin Orange - Citrus
Calamondin VariegataR Image by Светлана from PixabayDescription, History & Interesting Facts:
The Calamondin Orange (Citrus × microcarpa) (syn. ×Citrofortunella mitis) has gained popularity across the world for its versatility and ease of care in the garden. Because it can flower and fruit year-round it is a magnificent ornamental, and its showy orange fruits are eaten fresh or used in sweet and savoury dishes. In this article we will explore the characteristics, uses, and cultivation of this dwarf citrus tree with its miniature fruits.
The Calamondin Orange (Citrus × microcarpa) is a fairly large evergreen shrub or small petite tree which is native to China and the Philippines, and is thought to be a natural hybrid or cross between a kumquat and a mandarin orange.
Depending on the soil, climatic conditions, and whether you are growing it in the garden or in pots, your calamondin orange tree can grow anything from 2 to 3.5m in height, or more.
‘Variegata’
Variegata is a dwarf hybrid that grows to a height of between 1.5 and 2m tall, making it ideal to grow in large pots. The glossy green leaves are variegated with irregular cream and white markings and blotches.
The calamondin orange is also commonly referred to as the Philippine Lime, Calamansi Lime, Panama Orange, or Acid Orange. The specific epithet (microcarpa) is a derived from the Ancient Greek words mikros meaning “little” and karpos meaning “fruit”, in reference to its small fruits.
Most citrus trees have four or five ‘flushes’, or periods of new growth each year, and each flush is capable of producing flowers and setting fruit, but they rarely do so after their flush of growth in spring. The exceptions are calamondins, kumquats, lemons and limes which can flower and set fruit almost year-round.
The trees produce an abundance of white, waxy blossoms which lend a sweet citrus fragrance to the garden for weeks on end. The fruits that follow the flowers develop slowly until they are about 2.5cm in diameter, ripening to a bright orange in winter.
Calamondin OrangeIn the Kitchen:
Like the kumquat, if eaten fresh calamondins have an acquired taste, with their wonderfully sweet skin and tangy flesh that leaves the mouth tingling with delight. And, even though the rind is easy to peel, it is eaten skin and all. If the fresh fruit is not to your liking it can be used for many culinary purposes.
The small fruits are used like lemons or limes, and in Southeast Asian cuisine, it's a common condiment, adding zest to dishes.
Juiced the fruit can be made into make a drink similar to lemonade, or it can be frozen as ice cubes for later use in jellies, desserts, custards or chiffon pies.
The juice can be mixed with soy sauce as a dipping sauce, or to season fish, poultry or pork.
Making whole candied fruits, marmalades and other preserves is a great way to use abundant harvests, and the preserved peel is added as flavouring to other stewed or preserved fruits, and many savoury dishes.
Because of its sweet and acid flavour lends itself to both sweet and savoury dishes, there is a world of inspiring calamondin orange recipes online, so get your creative juices going and find your favourites.
Health Benefits:
One calamondin contains about 12 calories, with a very small trace of fat, approximately 1.2g fibre, 37mg potassium, 7.3 mg vitamin C, 57.4mg IU vitamin A, 8.4mg calcium, 15.5g water and 3.1g carbohydrates.
In the Garden:
Calamondins are often grown just for their good looks in the garden as, like kumquats, lemons and limes they can flower and set fruit almost year-round, and flowers and fruits will often appear on the trees at the same time, filling the air with the heady sweet aroma of citrus blossoms,
Because the fruit takes nearly a year to ripen, and is sweeter at the end of the season, it maintains its ornamental value in the landscape longer than most citrus.
These compact-growing citrus trees make wonderful container specimens for patios, courtyards and swimming-pool surrounds, and look gorgeous growing in large tubs.
They can be left to grow as shrubs or trained into standards with a rounded head on a clean stem.
Standard plants make pretty feature plants in formal herb or vegetable gardens.
Because it will bloom year-round, and the fruits are miniature, the calamondin orange remains a very popular bonsai plant.
If planted in rows and trimmed annually, calamondins make very attractive hedges or screens. They can also be pruned and trained to grow as an espalier, where the branches are trained to grow flat against a wall or fence, or simply supported on a lattice.
Members can click here to read my article: “How to grow fruit trees in small spaces”
Cultivation:
Do you need pollinator trees for a Calamondin Orange?
The flowers are self-fertile and require no cross-pollination.
Is the Calamondin Orange hardy to cold?
This citrus is hardy to temperatures down to -6° C, and only the kumquat and the trifoliate orange are more tolerant of lower temperatures. Young trees will need winter protection for the first 2 to 3 years.
Established trees can tolerate even lower temperatures but will suffer some leaf damage and loss of fruit, but by early summer they will have recovered completely.
How much sun does a Calamondin Orange tree require?
Citrus trees grow, flower and bear best in full sun positions, but will take some shade.
What soil type does a Calamondin Orange tree need?
Calamondins will adapt to most garden soils that drain well, as they do not like waterlogged roots. They do not do well in saline (salty) soils, growing well in fertile soils with a neutral pH range from 6 to 8.
Plant your Calamondin Orange tree at the proper depth
Planting citrus at the proper depth is the most important factor. Plant the tree too low and the trunk will stay wet, and this will encourage bark diseases. Plant it too high and the root ball will dry out too quickly and not enough moisture will get to the tree. Dig the hole, and before removing the plant from its nursery bag, check to see that the planting depth will be at the same level as it is currently in the bag, then remove and plant.
How much water does a Calamondin Orange tree require?
How often you need to water your trees will depend on the composition of the soil, how well it drains, and rainfall. Newly planted trees will require regular watering until they are established.
Once established, the trees may tolerate some drought, but the quality of the fruit will be affected. Be careful not to overwater, as overwatering can be just as much of a problem as not watering enough.
During the growing season you can water your trees thoroughly and then allow them to dry out before re-watering. During the summer months, established trees growing in the garden can be watered deeply about every 7 to 10 days, and in winter every 2 to 3 weeks. Water well during dry, warm weather, or they may prematurely drop their flowers or developing fruit.
Potted specimens will need to be checked more frequently for watering than those growing in the ground.
How to feed Calamondin Orange trees?
Young citrus trees must be planted in deeply dug soil with added compost but no fertiliser. Newly planted trees should only be fertilised when they start showing new growth.
Established trees require moderately heavy nutrients, and even on very fertile soils they will require feeding after a few heavy crops. Feed three times a year in July, December and March with a balanced fertiliser that has high nitrogen and medium potassium levels, 8:1:5 is fine for the home gardener. Mature citrus trees should receive enough nitrogen to provide good, healthy leaf coverage, but not excessive leaf growth.
In addition, give established trees 75g of Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) three times a year.
Never apply fertiliser close to the trunk and spread it uniformly on the soil surface under the tree canopy, extending out to slightly to beyond the drip line. Water it in thoroughly.
Potted specimens will need more frequent feeding than those growing in the soil.
When to harvest Calamondin Oranges
Calamondin fruits can take up to a year to ripen to an orange colour, but because orange fruit that is soft and over- ripe is sometimes not as pungent, start harvesting when they are half-ripe, selecting firm, yellow to yellow-orange fruit.
If the crop is ripe and you know rains are coming, try to harvest before the rains, as excessive rain can cause the fruits to spoil.
When picking the fruit, it is best to use clippers or scissors to get them off of the tree, rather than pulling them off, which may tear the fruit at the stem end which promotes deterioration.
If not refrigerated, use the fruit within a week of harvesting.
Pruning Calamondin Orange trees:
The trees don’t require much pruning except to cut away any long, skinny branches growing straight up and all damaged or dead wood, or if you just want to keep the plant smaller. Prune after fruiting, and before it blooms in spring.
Calamondin Oranges can bloom and fruit year-round
Calamondin 'Variegata' Image by Светлана from PixabayThe Calamondin Orange has gained popularity across the world for its versatility and ease of care in the garden. Because it can flower and fruit year-round it is a magnificent ornamental, and its showy orange fruits are eaten fresh or used in sweet and savoury dishes. In this article we will explore the characteristics, uses, and cultivation of this dwarf citrus tree with its miniature fruits.
Kumquats have been cultivated for centuries
Kumquats Image by Davide Tirindelli from PixabayKumquats are grown for their ornamental and culinary uses. Unlike other citrus the miniature fruits have a thin and chewy sweet rind which compliments the fruit’s tangy flesh. The availability of exciting dwarf varieties that thrive in pots, make kumquats perfect for even the tiniest of gardens. Learn more about growing and using these fascinating little fruits.
What’s the ‘buzz’ about Finger Limes?
Finger Lime 'Colette' Cultivar Finger Limes are hailed as the ‘caviar’ of the fruit world because their shiny pearls are the size and texture of caviar and give a burst of effervescent, tangy lime flavour when chewed, earning them the nickname “lime caviar”. Finger limes are grown in the same manner as other citrus fruits, and do exceptionally well in pots, making them perfect to grow at home. Learn more about these fascinating natives of the rainforests, and you may just be tempted to buy a couple!
African Violets can flower continuously
African violets are simply irresistible, and with their attractive leaves and endearing blooms in a lovely range of colours, they remain the most popular of the continuously flowering houseplants. If you can give them a good balance of light, water and food, they will reward you with blooms all year long. Learn all about caring for these little beauties below, but beware, you may become hooked on them!
Why you need to add Broccoli to your list of winter veggies
Broccoli Image by Nataly from PixabayBroccoli is not only highly nutritious but also so easy to grow during the winter months, and best of all its taste improves during cold weather. Although it’s too late to sow broccoli seed now, in cold regions established plants can still be planted out for a late winter or early spring crop. Learn more about broccoli and how to grow it below.