Welcome to Gardening in South Africa!

Click here to read under Trees

Cherry Blossoms Image by Jarosław Deluga Góra from PixabayDescription, History & Interesting Facts

Cherries, with their ruby-red colour and tangy taste, have tantalised the palates of food lovers for centuries. Belonging to the Rosaceae family of plants, they are closely related to plums, peaches, nectarines and apricots, and enjoy similar growing conditions.

Sweet cherries originated in Anatolia, also known as Asia Minor, which is a large peninsula in Western Asia, thriving in the incredibly fertile areas between the Black and Caspian seas.

It is believed that cherries were most likely first spread to Europe by birds, where they flourished and quickly became a popular fruit. The Greeks were the first to cultivate cherries and the Romans soon followed. A cultivated cherry is recorded as having been brought from north-eastern Anatolia, also known as the Pontus region, to Rome in 72 BC by Lucius Licinius Lucullus, a Roman general and statesman.

Cherries were first mentioned in a book called ‘The ‘History of Plants’, written by Theophrastus, an early botanist and protégé of Aristotle, in the 3rd Century B.C. in which he notes that cherries were cultivated by the Greeks for hundreds of centuries.

Cherries were introduced into England at Teynham, near Sittingbourne in Kent, by order of Henry VIII, who had tasted them in Flanders, the Flemish region of Belgium, and obviously loved them. Later they were brought to the United States by English colonists in 1629, and commercial production started there in the mid 1800's.

Cherry Production in South Africa

Because most cherry trees don’t like very hot summers, and prefer cold winters, but have a problem with frost during bloom time, they can only be grown in certain areas of South Africa, where most of the production takes place in the Ceres area of the Western Cape, the eastern Free State and Mpumalanga.

South Africa’s first small cherry orchard was planted in the Gydo Pass outside Ceres in 1890, and commercial production started in 1905 on the farm Platkop in the Clocolan district in the Free State. Varieties like ‘Giant Heidelfinger’, ‘Bing’, ‘Early River’ and ‘Early Red’ were planted. These cultivars are still grown in the area, and trees of some of these original sweet varieties can still be seen growing on the farm today.

The Cherry Festival

The Cherry Festival in Ficksburg, in the heart of the eastern Free State, is considered to be the oldest crop festival in South Africa. Starting in 1967, it quickly became one of the major events on the South African calendar. It is held annually during the third week in November, with thousands of people visiting Ficksburg during the cherry season to participate in the festivities and partake in the various culinary delights made with the delicious fruits.

Sweet Cherry. Image by Hans from PixabayChilling Requirements for Cherry Trees

Cherry growing in South Africa is restricted to areas with sufficient “winter chilling” to develop flowers and fruit in season. Winter chilling is measured by the number of hours during May, June and July, when temperatures fall between 0 and +7 degrees Celsius. Each hour within this range constitutes 1 chilling unit. 

Some fruits like strawberries require just 200 hours, and this is why they can grow in warmer climates. Other fruits need a lot of chilling hours and will only fruit well in colder climates.

Cherry chill hours are up there with the higher numbers, and you can’t grow these trees in warm zones unless you choose the right cultivar, like the Capulin cherry.

Unlike its close relative the Sweet Cherry (Prunus avium) which can only be grown successfully in certain growing regions, Capulin Cherry trees (Prunus salicifolia) have a dormancy period that is triggered by day length rather than cold temperatures and therefore the trees do not need cold winter weather to regulate their yearly flowering and fruiting cycle, making the Capulin cherry great for subtropical or warm temperate regions.

Because the trees are also remarkably cold and frost tolerant once established, this cherry tree is perfect for South African gardens.

Click here to read my FREE Article about growing and using the Capulin cherry at home.

Cherries with high chilling requirements are adapted to colder climates and won’t break out of dormancy until a sufficient amount of time with cold temperatures has passed. Chill hour requirements vary between the cultivars, so check before you purchase cherry trees.   

High chill cultivars will require between 800 and 1 200 hours of temperatures below 7°C in winter. Medium chill cherries can get by on 500 chill hours, and low chill cultivars can get by on even fewer chill hours, around 400.

Sour Cherries. Image by Hans from PixabaySweet and Sour Cherries

There are two main types of cherry:

Sweet Cherries (Prunus avium) and Sour Cherries (Prunus cerasus) both originate in Europe and western Asia, and they usually do not cross-pollinate.

There are many varieties of each cherry type, producing red, black or yellow fruit, from mid to late summer.

Sweet Cherries (Prunus avium)

Prunus avium is the main ancestor of the sweet cherries that are grown commercially worldwide today.  Sweet cherries are delicious eaten fresh and are best grown in a sunny position.

Sour Cherries (Prunus cerasus)

Prunus cerasus is the ancestor of the sour cherries. Sour Cherries are grown mainly for cooking and grow well in sun or partial shade.  

Cherry Cultivars/Varieties

CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOR CHERRY TREES AND OTHER FRUITS AND NUTS

Dwarf Cherry Trees:

These are popular for smaller gardens and containers because they typically grow to 2 to 3m tall with an equal spread.

Semi-Dwarf Cherry Trees:

These grow slightly larger than dwarf varieties, reaching perhaps 3 to 5m tall with an equal spread.

Standard Cherry Trees:

These are the largest, and depending on the variety and rootstock, can grow anything from 6 to 12m or more if left unpruned. Some mature, standard cherry trees can reach impressive heights, even two or three stories tall.

Today cherry trees are usually grafted onto the roots (rootstock) of another variety that controls the tree’s size and vigour.

Regular pruning can help to manage the size of the tree and keep it within a desired height and spread.

Cherry ‘Lapins’ (Prunus avium)

Lapins, a sweet cherry variety originating from British Columbia, Canada, is a hybrid of the ‘Van’ and ‘Stella’ cultivars, and has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit. Like its parent variety Stella, the Lapins cherry is self-fertile and an excellent pollinator for other cherry varieties.

Lapins is one of the most successful cherries in South Africa, and because it is a semi-dwarf variety with gorgeous pinkish-white blossoms, and beautiful autumn foliage in shades of orange, red and yellow, is a great choice for a shade tree.  The tree grows to 2.5 to 4m tall, with an almost equal spread. It has dense, green foliage and a branch structure conducive to heavy yields.

The large fruit of this cultivar is regarded as very high quality. It turns deep red well before it is ready to pick, and unlike some varieties it is sweet while still red. The flesh is also red with a firm, juicy texture offering a good, sweet taste. 

Lapins is self-pollinating and does not require another tree for fruit production.

In South Africa Lapins cherries are harvested from late November to early December, and are noted for having good split resistance.

Lapins cherry trees need medium chilling of about 500 hours in winter.

Dwarf Lapins Cherry Tree

The Dwarf Lapins Cherry is a versatile and compact fruit tree, ideal for those with limited space. This exciting new semi-dwarf cherry only grows around 2 to 3.5 to tall, and because it is self-fertile, it is perfect for a small urban orchard or small garden. It also grows well in large 50L pots.

These trees have been grafted onto semi-dwarf MXM14 rootstock and are very productive, bearing fruit 3 years after planting out.

Morello Cherry, German Sour Cherry (Prunus cerasus)

The Morello cherry tree is the best known sour cherry variety. It is a vigorous tree with an upright growth habit, and can be kept at 3 to 4m tall with an equal spread, and with its dense clusters of pure white flowers in spring it makes a lovely small shade tree for gardens.

Morello cherries are smaller than sweet cherries. The dark red fruits ripen from November and the deep crimson flesh has a rich, wine-red juice. Although sour in taste it is excellent for cooking and pie making.

This self-pollinating variety ripens from November.

Morello cherries require between 400 and 500 chill hours.

Cherry ‘Stella’ (Prunus avium)

Stella is notable as the first self-fertile sweet cherry cultivar to be named. It has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

The Stella cultivar was the result of a breeding program at the John Innes Institute in Norwich, England, that developed three high-quality self-fertile cherry trees. In 1956, at the Summerland Research Station in Summerland, British Columbia, one of the seedlings was crossed by K. O. Lapins (namesake of the Lapins cherry cultivar) with the Lambert variety, and the resulting hybrid tree was named "Stella" in 1968. It has since been used to develop other cultivars, including the Chelan cherry.

Stella is vase-shaped tree with a mature height of about 6 to 9m tall and a spread of about 4 to 5m, but can be kept at 3 to 4m with pruning, making it a lovely small shade tree for gardens.

It produces moderate to heavy crops of dark red, medium sized cherries. The flesh has a moderate firm, coarse texture and a good, sweet flavour.

In South Africa, the Stella cherry variety is typically harvested from late November to early December, and is tolerant to rain splitting.

Stella is self-fertile and is considered a universal pollinator for other sweet cherry varieties, except for the Bing cherry variety in some regions.

Stella requires approximately 700 to 800 chill hours.

Compact ‘Stella’

In 1964, at the Brookhaven National Laboratory in New York, a compact version of Stella was developed through X-ray irradiation of dormant Stella scions, and was named "Compact Stella" in 1973.

 It is a semi-dwarf variety and grows to about half the size of its parent variety. It retains the parent variety's self-fertility and fruits heavily.

Cherry ‘Black Tartarian’ (Prunus avium)

Black Tartarian (originally Ronald's Large Black Heart) is an heirloom cultivar of cherry originally developed in Circassia, Russia, which is very good for eating fresh.  It was brought from Circassia to England in the 1700’s by a man named Hugh Ronalds, and from England it was brought to the United States in the 1800’s.

Rated as one of the most flavourful cherries, Black Tartarian bears good crops of very dark red to purplish-black fruit with dark red, juicy and sweet flesh with a unique taste and texture, and a smooth stone that separates easily. The fruit is too soft for commercial shipping, but is ideal for fresh eating and preserves.

Black Tartarian can grow up to 9m tall with an equal spread at maturity, but can be kept much smaller with pruning, making it a lovely small shade tree for gardens. Dwarf varieties grow around 3 to 4m tall with an equal spread.

Black Tartarian is not self-pollinating so you will need two trees, or another pollinator like Stella to bear well. It is a perfect pollinator for other sweet cherry varieties.

Black Tartarian ripens in November and December.

This cherry tree has chill hour requirements between 700 and 800.

Cherry ‘Sweetheart’ (Prunus avium)

The Sweetheart cherry tree was developed from a selective breeding program in British Columbia, Canada, to combine the best traits of various cherry species. It is easy to love, and renowned for its large cherries with a sweet-tangy flavour, ideal for fresh consumption, cooking, and baking.

The tree can grow 5 to 8m tall with an equal spread, but can be kept 4m x 4m with pruning.

Sweetheart is harvested from late November to December, and the fruit shows a low incidence of cracking during summer rains.

The trees are self-fertile but produce more fruit when cross-pollinated.

Sweetheart cherry trees require 700 to 800 chill hours in winter.

Cherry 'Lapins' Uses:

Cherries are marketed as fresh fruit and some are canned or processed as cherry jam, cherry brandy, cherry ice-cream and cherry syrup.

Cherry wood is valued for its rich colour and straight grain in manufacturing fine furniture, particularly desks, tables and chairs.

Health Benefits:

Bursting with vitamins and protective antioxidants, all types of cherries are certainly good for us.

Sour cherries are especially healthy as they have about 20 times more vitamin A and five times more antioxidants than sweet cherries. They also contain vitamins B, C, K, copper, potassium, and manganese.

Sour cherries are also particularly beneficial because they are rich in protective plant compounds which offer a number of health benefits. These include anti-inflammatory properties that may alleviate conditions such as gout and heart disease, and they can lower blood pressure and cholesterol.

The juice may also be helpful for those involved in endurance exercise because of its ability to enhance muscle function and reduce muscle damage.

The health benefits of cherries also include helping to manage blood sugar because they have a low glycaemic index (GI) score. A low glycaemic index score indicates that a food raises blood sugar levels relatively slowly and gradually compared to foods with a higher GI score.

Another popular use of the juice is to aid sleep because of its natural melatonin content, this hormone helps time your circadian rhythm and supports the onset of sleep.

Health Risks

The cherry kernels, accessible by chewing or breaking the hard-shelled cherry pits, contain amygdalin, a chemical that releases the toxic compound hydrogen cyanide when ingested. The amount of amygdalin in each cherry varies widely, and symptoms would show only after eating several crushed pits (3 to 4 of the Morello variety or 7 to 9 of the red or black varieties).

Swallowing the pits whole normally causes no complications.

Cherry Orchard Image by Susanne from PixabayIn the Garden:

In South Africa, cherry trees bloom from early September to early October, adorning the landscape with their abundance of delicate pink and white flowers. The spring flowers and delicious summer fruits are followed by lovely autumn coloured foliage.

The trees come in various sizes to suit most gardens, large or small.  And if space is really tight, you can grow a fan-trained cherry flat against a wall or fence, or even grow a dwarf tree in a large pot.

If you own your home and plan to be there for a long time, planting cherry trees will be an investment that will pay off for many years to come.

Cultivation:

If you have the right climate and soil, there’s no reason you can’t grow your own cherries at home.

CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOR CHERRY TREES AND OTHER FRUITS AND NUTS

Pollination:

The wilder varieties of sour cherries are self-fertile, and although many modern varieties of sweet cherry are self-fertile  some are not, and need a ‘pollination partner’ (another cherry nearby that flowers at a similar time) to ensure a good crop, so check before buying.

Even self-fertile trees usually produce a larger crop when there’s a compatible variety nearby, so if you have space, plant two cherry trees.  

If you are growing an orchard of cherries mix varieties when purchasing. A general rule is to have at least one pollinator for every five trees.

In commercial cherry farming, nine to 12 beehives per hectare are used for cherry pollination, but in the garden you can plant shrubs and herbs to attract pollinators like bees.

Ideal climatic conditions for growing cherry trees

Although modern types of sweet or sour cherry trees are being bred to tolerate warmer climates, generally cherries can only be grown in certain areas in South Africa as they require cold winter weather conditions with a long dormancy period of 7°C or below with no spring frosts.

The trees also favour regions with cool spring weather and mild summers.

Can Cherry Trees tolerate frost?

Because cherry trees enter a state of dormancy in winter, slowing down their growth and conserving energy, they can tolerate very low winter temperatures.

Some cherry varieties can even supercool, meaning their internal fluids can remain liquid even below freezing. This adaption prevents the formation of ice crystal that damages cells.

However, the trees are susceptible to frost damage, particularly during their blooming period in spring, when temperatures may drop suddenly and late frosts occur. This is because the delicate buds and flowers are vulnerable to ice crystal formation, which can rupture cells, damaging the developing fruit, and leading to crop losses.

During bloom time in spring cherry blossoms flourish in a temperature range between 10°C to 20°C.

Start by choosing your site

You want to find a sunny area of the garden where there is excellent drainage, and where there is good air circulation but protection from strong winds.

Soil requirements

Cherry trees will adapt to a wide range of soil types as long as they are deep, friable, fertile and well-drained. A slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 is ideal.

Cherry trees are at risk for root rot, so it’s essential that the soil is well-drained and properly prepared.

How to plant cherry trees

Cherry trees growing in nursery bags can be planted out anytime, but traditionally one year old trees are planted out in early spring.

Prepare the soil by digging big holes at least 50cm x 50cm square. Loosen the bottom and sides of the hole with a fork and mix soil from the hole with an equal amount of compost. You can add some bone meal or superphosphate to the soil, but do not apply any nitrogen.

Plant your tree with about 10cm of the rootstock above the level of the soil, and if you want to stake your tree, plant the stake along with your tree. Don’t tie the stake right up against the tree, and use a loose tie that has some stretch and flexibility in it.

Fill in with your soil mixture and plant your tree firmly, add some mulch, but keep it well away from the stem of the tree, then water well.

If you are planting more than one tree or an orchard, space your trees correctly. The spacing between your trees will depend on the variety/cultivar you have selected as well as your growing region, and pruning technique. Generally tree rows should run in a north-south direction, to provide maximum light penetration.

Fertilisation:

Cherry trees are light feeders and if your tree is planted in fertile soil, it may not need fertiliser at all, except for an annual mulching with compost or mature kraal manure.

If you do want to fertilise, use a fertiliser with low nitrogen (N) content, as too much nitrogen will result in rampant leaf growth at the expense of the fruit.

Also, keep in mind that the best time to fertilise is early spring. Don’t feed cherry trees in late summer, as this timing only stimulates foliage growth, inhibits fruiting, and makes the tree vulnerable to winter injury.

The method normally used on application of fertiliser is the broad band method. The application must be about 30cm from the trunk to the drip of the branches. Fertilisers can also be injected through irrigation systems.

Irrigation:

Cherry trees produce better crops with a regular irrigation schedule. The amount of water needed will very according to the growing region, natural rainfall patterns and local climate, the time of season, and management practices like composting.

In the winter rainfall areas of South Africa, cherries need irrigation for better growth and fruit quality.   

Drip irrigation with the addition of nutrients in the system is preferred to micro-irrigation, which may advance the occurrence of stem cankers.

Micro-irrigation, also called micro-spray, localized, low-volume, low-flow, or trickle irrigation, is an irrigation method with lower water pressure and flow than a traditional sprinkler system which is used in agriculture for row crops, orchards, and vineyards.

Weed Control:

Weeds should be controlled as they compete with fruit trees for water and nutrients, and competition from weeds can be a major problem for young trees.

Cherry Harvest Image by Hans from PixabayHarvesting:

Cherries are an alternate bearing crop, producing a high yield one year and a smaller harvest the next. Different varieties of cherry will ripen at different times, and  the cherry harvest in South Africa starts in the second week in October and ends around the end of December, but certain varieties, and late harvesting in some areas, can extend the season into mid-January.

Cherries are a crop with a very short harvesting season, and at home they will need to be handpicked with the stems intact. Your fruit production will begin after three years or so, and within six or seven years, your trees will be bearing a lot of fruit.

Pay extra attention to your cherries when it’s harvesting time, checking the size and colour of the fruit daily. The best indication of whether they’re ready to be harvested is how they taste, so harvest when they are at their most delicious.

Fresh cherries will store well for a number of days in a cool place.

Propagation:

Although cherry trees can be grown from seed but this is not recommended. Rather purchase grafted trees from nurseries.

Pruning:

Members can click here to read my FREE ARTICLE  "Grow a little deciduous stone-fruit tree"

During the growing season, select 2 to 3 leader branches that will grow upwards and remove all lower branches.

Soon, lateral branches will begin to develop on the leaders. These shouldn’t become stronger than the leaders, so cut them back in summer if they threaten to take over.

Usually a cluster of branches develops at the tips of the leaders. These must be cut back, leaving only the strongest single upright branch.

The lateral branches on the leaders will in time develop spurs, which bear the fruit.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Members can click here to find my Spraying programme for deciduous stone fruits

Cherry trees are fairly tough and with the right care, you should be able to avoid any serious problems.

Brown rot and powdery mildew are problematic when harvesting in wet weather. Later in the season cherry leaf spot can occur.

Bacterial canker is one of the major bacterial diseases. Copper oxychloride can be sprayed on the entire tree during the dormant season as a preventive measure against bacterial canker. Do not spray it on green leaves, only on dormant trees.

Crown gall, phythophtera and nematodes attack the root system.

Apple maggots and bollworm can also be problematic.

Of course, birds will also enjoy your cherries.  Small trees can be covered with bird netting, or a square frame can be built around the tree with very fine netting stretched around the sides and over the top of the tree. The fine netting will stop birds getting caught. If the trees are very large, make your own or buy dangly, shiny items to hang in the trees and hopefully scare the birds away.

You might also want to encircle the trunk of each young tree with a protective plastic pipe to protect it from animal and insect pests, as young cherry trees are especially at risk from insects that bore into the main trunk.

Severe spring hailstorms can strip leaves and fruit from trees so it is best to protect the trees.

A disease and insect control programme will ensure productivity and high fruit quality.

Click here to read under Trees

Peach Tree Picture by Image by Andrea Pók from PixabayWinter is traditionally deciduous stone fruit planting season, and if you would love to plant peaches, nectarines, plums, prunes, apricots, or cherries but never thought you had sufficient space, you need to read this article.

Even if you can’t find dwarf trees, the pruning treatment outlined here will create an appreciably smaller fruit tree than what you’re used to — as small as most dwarf trees.

Deciduous fruit trees are one of summer’s delights, and if your childhood memories include returning home in the evening stained with the juice of the forbidden fruit you stole from your neighbour’s tree, you’re sure to smile with nostalgia, remembering how deliciously sweet they were.

Thankfully for children growing up in the suburbs today, planting fruit trees in the garden is making a huge comeback, and the term “food forest” remains a buzz-word for gardeners wanting to grow their own food at home in a sustainable way.

Whether you have a small to medium sized garden or a large property and are looking to add an orchard, there are pruning techniques to slow a tree down and keep deciduous stone-fruit trees small and compact.

In this article I hope to inspire you to grow some fruits at home, whether it’s a dwarf cherry tree in a single pot on a balcony or patio, a small orchard of fruit trees which have been pruned to keep them dwarfs, or espaliered fruit in neglected spaces in your garden or along bare walls. Growing your own fruit is so rewarding and a lot of fun, and it’s sure to inspire everyone around you to do the same.

Apricot Tree Picture by Image by manseok Kim from PixabayGrowing dwarf fruit trees in small spaces

Because our urban homes and gardens have shrunk in size over the years, plant breeders around the world have been hard at work developing more compact and even true dwarf varieties of fruit trees that are suitable for small gardens and pot culture.

South Africa has been lagging behind in this respect but thankfully dwarf fruit trees are now becoming more freely available to gardeners. Dwarf citrus trees have been around for a while, and you will also find apples and pomegranates. Even dwarf coconuts, avocado and papaya trees can be sourced, but there don’t seem to be any dwarf deciduous stone-fruits available except for dwarf cherries.

Some nurseries may offer fruit trees grafted onto semi-dwarf rootstocks, but semi-dwarf only means ‘smaller than standard’. These trees are great for medium sized gardens, but may still grow too large if not pruned correctly.

Concerning deciduous stone fruits, plant breeders already select trees for commercial farmers, not only for their bearing capacity and flavour, but also for their compact growth habit which allows for easier harvesting and pruning. Luckily many of these commercial varieties are available to gardeners in South Africa, but unless they are pruned correctly, or espaliered, they may still be too large for many gardens.

CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOR DECIDUOUS STONE FRUITS & DWARF VARIETIES 

How pruning times affect the growth of your fruit tree

Any standard and semi-dwarf deciduous fruit variety can be trained to stay much more compact. If you start by selecting trees already known for their compact growth habit, and experiment with some of the new and innovative ways of growing and shaping fruit trees to keep them small, growing smaller fruit trees is certainly possible, and pruning correctly will allow you to tuck more varieties of fruit into your property.

The key to this technique is to understand that a fruit trees’ reaction to pruning is dependent on the season in which the cuts are made. The trees’ response is determined by whether the tree is actively growing (spring), gathering nutrients (early summer), preparing for dormancy (late summer), or fully dormant (autumn and winter). Keep this cycle in mind when wielding your shears.

Winter pruning encourages vigorous growth in spring, while summer pruning slows things down. It all comes down to your tree’s seasonal energy cycle. Prune at the right time, and you can control the size of your tree.

Nectarine Tree Picture by Image by Fruchthandel Magazin from PixabayThe First Cut

The secret to growing all deciduous stone fruits, and especially if you want to grow a small fruit tree, is the first ‘hard cut’, also called a ‘hard-heading cut’ which removes the growing tip. Often nurseries will have already made this first cut when the tree is dormant, but for growing smaller trees you may have to lop off even more.

Start off by purchasing a nice small tree with a stem diameter around 2cm. If the tree you bought has a stem thicker than 2cm it may have a harder time pushing out buds if you cut it down too low, so in this case make the first hard header cut higher up where the ‘caliper’ (width of the stem) is smaller. As soon as the buds begin to develop, and after the sprouts get going in spring, you can cut the scaffold as low as you prefer.

This pruning cut is critical because it will create a low scaffold (the primary limbs that make up the canopy of a tree), and the lower down it is, the easier it will be to keep the tree small.

Here’s how to handle the first cut for deciduous, stone fruits. Choose a bud around knee-height, but be very careful that you leave several buds between where you want to cut and the graft. The graft is that knobby place low down on the trunk where the scion (the graft that determines fruit variety) meets the rootstock.

Make a clean 45-degree cut that angles away from the bud, cutting close enough to the bud so it can heal cleanly, but not so close that you cut into the bud itself.

This first hard cut works well for most deciduous fruits, however, peaches and nectarines will sprout more reliably if you cut just above what is called a “nurse limb” - a small branch which is left on the stem. In spring this little branch will quickly sprout new leaves, which in turn will provide nutrients to the little sapling.

If this hard heading cut is done while the tree is still dormant it will encourage the tree to quickly put down roots, and vigorous growth and branching will occur in spring.

Early spring pruning in your fruit trees first year of growth

After the first buds start to develop in spring, take another good look at the spacing of the branches and if you do not like the arrangement of the top buds, simply prune down a bit more on the main stem until the configuration of leafing buds suits you.

Also in early spring of its first year of growth, just as the sprouts reach about 2.5 to 5cm long, and before woody branches begin to form, check your tree once more. Look for multiple sprouts growing from a single node and pinch them out, leaving only one to continue growing.

When the plant directs its energy to the remaining buds, they will eventually develop into new limbs, each with a growing tip of its own. The resulting open-centred tree will be shorter, stronger, easier to care for, and most fruitful.

Remember when pruning fruit trees, the idea is to create an open framework of branches which are reasonably evenly spaced, to allow sunshine and air flow around the branches.

In early summer you may be alarmed at how aggressively your newly planted and pruned sapling grows, but let it do its thing until around the summer solstice in December. 

Pruning around the summer solstice to slow a tree down

Traditionally deciduous fruit trees are pruned in winter when they are totally dormant to encourage vigorous growth, as much as 2m in spring.

However, if the same cuts are made in mid-summer around the time of the solstice, or if your tree is still fruiting, right after the fruit is harvested, the resultant spring growth will only reach about 30cm in length, a desirable result for compact fruit trees.

The reason for this is that by late summer, as your tree begins the shift into dormancy, the nutrients collected by the leaves will have already begun to move into the trunk and roots, so the closer to the summer solstice you prune, the greater your size-control effects will be.

Doing your main pruning at the solstice rather than in winter removes the leaves early and reduces the late season root growth. Reducing root growth with this method of summer pruning is used to slow a tree down, and is most important to do every year, but is especially important in the trees first year of growth. Cuts made while a tree is actively growing will also heal quickly, so don’t worry.

If you live in a cold climate where frost comes early, pruning too late in summer or autumn is not a great idea because every time you cut a branch off you will leave behind a pruning wound.  This is not a problem during the growing season, as within days your tree will start healing the wound with a layer of protective cells. However in autumn growth has slowed down so dramatically that the wounds may not heal well. Therefore, when using this pruning technique you need to select earlier varieties.

Also around this time of the trees first year of growth you can do another heading cut if you so desire and you can also remove any branches you do not want.

How to prune established deciduous stone-fruit trees

Do not be scared to prune, fruit trees are very forgiving, decide  what to keep and what to prune and just do it.  Your tree will continue to grow in its own way and you can always make adjustments next season.

Before starting, make sure your secateurs and loppers are clean of fruit sap, which can harbour diseases. Also make sure they are sharp, as blunt tools can rip and damage branches. It’s a good idea to have a small spray bottle of methylated spirits with you when pruning, so you can spray your tools between trees and avoid spreading diseases.

The first three years of your trees life are the most important if you want a good shape.

Scaffold Branches

The end goal of the first cut is to have 4 to 6 evenly spaced scaffold branches coming off the trunk. When you are happy with the arrangement of the scaffold branches, prune the few you have selected back by at least half. Cut back to a plump bud which is pointing in the same direction as you want the branch to grow.

As your tree matures, from the scaffolds secondary branches will grow, and from both scaffolds and secondary branches the lateral shoots that bear the flowers and fruits will grow. These branches all need to be spaced.

Pruning around the summer solstice is done to keep the centre open with the main fruit bearing branches angling upwards. A 45 to 30 degree angle is the ideal angle for fruit bearing branches as it is the strongest.

This open centre pruning method is recommended because it allows sunlight to penetrate throughout the branches. However, it should also not be too open or the fruit can become sunburnt. Trees which are not pruned in this open way tend to grow so dense and thick that the fruit production tends to be limited to the outer perimeter of the tree.

Clean-up and Thinning Cuts

When doing what is called ‘clean-up cuts’ and ‘thinning cuts’ you are removing all unwanted branches which are growing, vertical, horizontal, or downward, and any which may be crossing one another, as well as any weak or diseases branches.

With all these clean-up and thinning cuts, it’s important to prune the branches back flush to the larger limb they’re growing from – don’t leave little stubs. If you have pruned any large thicker branches it is a good idea to seal them with tree seal, small branches do not require sealing.

Water-shoots

Remove any sprouts coming from the base of the trunk. Technically they’re called ‘suckers’ as on grafted trees they originate from the rootstock rather than the fruiting variety grafted on top.

Lots of water-shoots are a response to hard pruning and/or overfeeding. So bear this in mind.

Heading back the tree

The next step is the easiest – you’re basically giving the tree a haircut. This practice is called ‘heading back the tree’ and the idea is to control the height and spread of the tree by pruning back all the outermost growth of the tree, cutting off at least 20 to 30 percent of last year’s growth. You can distinguish last year’s growth from two-year-old growth by the wrinkly ring of bark encircling each stem. Depending on the vigour and size of the tree, this may be anywhere from 30cm to 1m back from the tip of the branches.

Where you make the cuts is also important. Prune each branch back to a point about 1/2cm above a bud that faces in the direction you want that branch to grow in the coming year.

This shortening of the selected branches makes them grow thicker and more able to hold up the weight of the fruit. Pomologists (fruit scientists) will tell you that it also causes the tree’s hormones to activate growth lower in the canopy, making for smaller, more fruitful trees.

Pruning and thinning the laterals

Lastly, finish your pruning with the fruit producing wood which is thin enough to cut with secateurs. These are the fruiting shoots that grow along the branches called the ‘laterals’. Thin these out leaving about 20cm between each lateral. Unwanted laterals must be completely cut off without a stump. Shorten any remaining laterals that are longer than 40cm, pruning them back to the length of the shorter ones.

By keeping the tree low year after year, you’ll encourage it to send out side branches instead of tall branches that reach to the sky, making it much easier to harvest, prune and spray.

Fruit trees do require a fair amount of care and pruning, especially when they are young, but the results will far outweigh the effort.

Plum Tree Image by Etienne L. from PixabayThe science of espalier

The very ancient art of espaliered fruit is trending once again.  Espalier is all about selectively pruning and training a plant into a desired shape, and an espalier fruit tree is the result of intensive training, so if you want to adopt this technique, bear in mind that any espalier undertaking will be time consuming and can take years to complete.

However, once established this method can make an exceptional focal point in bare areas of the garden, and especially along the large bare perimeter walls of your home. When trained on a free-standing trellis, these plants can also serve as attractive screens to hide unsightly views or to add privacy. Many plants can be trained this way, including climbing roses, but fruit trees are a favourite to use. Because of the hot afternoon heat in summer, the ideal position in South Africa is against an east facing wall.

A few of the benefits of espalier include being able to grow fruit at home in a narrow space, and where the fruit is easy to pick and maintain. This method can also be very artistic, and if done correctly, is guaranteed to have your neighbours talking.

Click here to read more about espalier in this free article. “So you say you don’t have space to plant fruit trees?”

Members can click here for detailed care instructions for growing Peaches & Nectarines.

Members can click here for detailed care instructions for growing Plums/Prunes

Members can click here for detailed care instructions for growing Apricots.

Members can click here to read more about growing Cherries

You will definitely need to have a yearly spraying programme for your trees. 

Members can click here to find a detailed spraying programme for deciduous stone-fruits.

Thankfully the wheel of gardening fashion is turning again, with large numbers of gardeners prepared to put in the time and effort to plant and maintain fruit trees in their gardens again. So, if you are inspired to find out more about modern homesteading in the suburbs and how to incorporate fruit trees into your garden landscape in a variety of both old and new ways, you certainly can. And you don’t need an entire orchard to grow your own fruit, if space is limited, spoil yourself with just one or two of your favourite varieties.

All it takes is a bit of research on your part in order to identify the best fruit trees and varieties for your climatic region. This, together with the correct care and a little cooperation with mother-nature will ensure success, and when you take that first bite you will remember how fruit used to taste when you were a child - the way sun-ripened fruit really should taste – incredibly sweet and juicy! 

CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOR DECIDUOUS STONE FRUITS 

Click here to read under Trees

Avocado Tree Image by Alanyadk from PixabayDescription & Interesting Facts:

The avocado is an evergreen tree in the laurel family (Lauraceae). It is native to the Americas and was first domesticated in Mesoamerica more than 5,000 years ago for its large and unusually oily fruit. It’s highly likely that the avocado originated in the highlands bridging south-central Mexico and Guatemala, and today the trees have a native growth range from Mexico to Costa Rica.

Avocado trees did not receive serious horticultural attention until around the 1900’s, when horticulturists found that production of grafted trees was simple and the perpetuation of superior seedlings allowed for the establishment of orchards. Today, flourishing avocado industries have developed around the world wherever the climate is suitable for growing avocados.

Avocado Races

Horticulturally, avocados are divided into races: Mexican Race (Persea americana, variety drymifolia); West Indian Race (Persea americana, variety americana); and the Guatemalan Race (Persea americana, variety guatemalensis), with more than 1,000 cultivars between them, distinguished by their origin, morphology, climatic adaptations, and fruit characteristics.

Originally, there were three avocado types used commercially for avocado production. These three races enabled cultivation in different climatic regions and extended the harvesting season.

The frost-sensitive West-Indian cultivars were developed in the hot and moist tropical lowlands of Central America. Guatemalan avocados prefer cool tropical conditions with a narrow range of temperature extremes, and Mexican avocado types are more adapted to cooler, high-lying, tropical conditions with wider temperature extremes.

From these original three races modern cultivars such as Fuerte, which is most popular in South Africa, have been developed by natural bred combinations of original avocado races. In Fuerte’s case, it’s a cross between Guatemalan and Mexican races, allowing the cultivar to be grown in climates with a wider temperature range than the pure Guatemalan type.

Depending on their race, avocado trees can be tall or spreading, and once mature can reach heights up to 18m with a 9m spread. Rather than a single, deep taproot, their fibrous, shallow root system spreads out near the soil surface, and can extend out to a remarkable diameter of 9m or more, depending on the tree's size and age. The elliptic to egg-shaped leaves vary in size from 8 to 30cm in length.

Avocado Flower Types

In South Africa, depending on the specific cultivar, avocado trees typically flower during the cooler winter months into spring (July to September). Fruit set usually commences around the end of September.

The trees will blossom profusely every year, sprouting from racemes near the leaf axils. The blooms are small and inconspicuous with no petals, but rather two whorls of three pale-green or greenish-yellow, downy lobes. Each blossom has 9 stamens with 2 basal orange nectar glands.

Interestingly, there are two types of avocado flowers: ‘Type A’ and ‘Type B’, depending on the flowers’ opening time. These flowers are dichogamous, meaning that the male and female parts mature separately, and each flower opens only twice.

‘Type A Flowers’ are functionally female in the morning, closing at midday. When they reopen the following afternoon they function as a male.

‘Type B Flowers’ are functionally female in the afternoon, closing in the evening, and reopening the following morning as functionally male.

When A and B flower types are grown together, this temporal overlap of mature male and female parts encourages cross-pollination and greater fruit production.

Avocado trees are partly self-pollinating, but yields are higher when A and B types are combined. To maintain consistent fruit output the trees are often propagated through grafting.

Avocado Fruit:

The fruit, sometimes also referred to as an “alligator pear” or “avocado pear” is botanically a large berry containing a single large seed.

The shape and size of the fruit is exceedingly variable in size between the various avocado races, varying from round to egg and pear-shaped, with a long slender neck. Fruits in certain Mexican races are no larger than a hen’s egg, and in other races they can weigh up to 1kg. The fruit’s outer skin is sometimes no thicker than that of an apple, or thicker, coarser, and woody in texture.

Selective breeding by humans has resulted in various cultivars with larger, fleshier fruits with a thinner skin. Depending on the cultivar, modern avocados have green, brown, purplish, or black skin, and may be pear-shaped, egg-shaped, or spherical. The fruit of these domestic varieties have smooth and buttery, golden-green flesh when ripe.

The large central seed can vary in size from 5 to 6.4cm long. Early wild avocados prior to domestication had much smaller seeds around 2.1 to 2.2cm in diameter, likely corresponding to smaller fruit size.

When are Avocados harvested in South Africa?

Avocado harvesting season in South Africa extends from February to November, with the most significant harvest occurring from March to September.

The actual harvest time can vary depending on factors like the specific cultivar, weather conditions, and the location within South Africa.

Depending on the production area, and whether the cultivar is an early or late-season variety, harvesting in South Africa starts in February with the early season ‘Fuerte’ and ends in October and November with ‘Hass’ and ‘Ryan’.

New varieties are continually being developed and planted to extend the avocado harvest.

A healthy avocado tree can produce upwards of 200 avocados per season. For grafted, nursery-bought trees, you can expect to see fruit in three to four years. However, avocados started from seed may take anything from 5 to 15 years before fruits appear.

Where are Avocados cultivated commercially?

Avocados are presently cultivated in the tropical and Mediterranean climates of many countries. Mexico, the Dominican Republic, Peru, Indonesia and Colombia are top producers worldwide, and the fruits are also grown commercially in Florida, California, Hawaii, Kenya, Haiti, Chile, Brazil, Australia, and South Africa, as well as on some Pacific islands. Avocado cultivation is expanding into the Mediterranean region, including Israel, areas like the Iberian Peninsula, Southern Europe, and even specific locations in Greece, Spain, and Italy are becoming important growing regions.  

Avocado production in South Africa has traditionally been concentrated in the warm subtropical areas of Limpopo and Mpumalanga. However, production is expanding in KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern and Western Cape provinces.

Avocado cultivars for South African gardens

CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOR AVOCADO TREES AND OTHER FRUITS AND NUTS

Avocado Fuerte

Fuerte is well-known and loved in South Africa for its creamy texture and rich buttery flavour with notes of hazelnut. It produces medium sized, pear-shaped fruits with a long neck and a relatively smooth, and medium-thin, dark green skin when ripe. The skin has a bumpy yet smooth and pliable texture, not adhering well to the flesh, allowing it to peel easily. Therefore, careful handling once picked is essential. This variety is primarily valued for its culinary use, especially when eaten raw. It is also popular for making avocado oil.

Fuerte tends to grow tall, between 7 to 10m, but can be pruned to keep it shorter for easier harvesting.

Fuerte is a ‘Type B’ avocado which is self-pollinating, but if planted  with a ‘Type A’ avocado like ‘Hass’ yields will be better.

In South Africa, Fuerte is harvested early in the season, typically starting in February and continuing through April, particularly in the far north of the Limpopo province around the town of Levubu.  

Cross-pollination permits the development of unlimited varieties, which is the case with Fuerte because it is a mix of Mexican and Guatemalan avocados. The name "Fuerte," meaning "strong" or "hardy" in Spanish was given to this variety due to its vigorous growth, and its tolerance of colder temperatures than other varieties.

Avocado Hass

Hass is one of the most popular avocado varieties worldwide, and with its rich creamy flesh and superior taste, one of the most delicious. The smallish fruits are round to egg-shaped, and unlike other avocados with their smooth green skin, Hass has dark green bumpy skin that darkens as the fruit ripens; eventually reaching a very dark shade that is almost black. Hass trees have high yields compared to other varieties and a mature tree can produce over a million blooms.

Harvesting in South Africa typically occurs from late May to October, with some regions like the Western Cape having a later harvest period, starting in late September or October and even continuing until December.

The trees grow around 10m tall, but can comfortably be kept 4 to 5m with regular pruning.

Hass is a Pollination ‘Type A’ tree and can self-pollinate. It is known to produce a reasonably sized yield when grown on its own, but partnering it with a 'Type B' variety will increase pollination opportunities and provide greater yields.‘Edranol’ and ‘Fuerte’ make very good pollinators to grow with ‘Hass’.

Hass is more sensitive to heat than other varieties.

Avocado Pinkerton

The Pinkerton avocado is a popular cultivar known for its medium to large pear-shaped fruits with an elongated neck. The yellow-green flesh has high oil content, with a mildly earthy aroma and hints of nuttiness. It has a fine, smooth and creamy texture that’s not at all fibrous, and not as rich as other varieties like Hass.  The green, slightly pebbled skin is leathery in texture and easy to peel.

Pinkerton is believed to be a hybrid of ‘Rincon’ and ‘Hass’ avocados, and has gained attention due to its high fruit-to-seed ratio, its early seasonal availability, high yields, and also because it is a conveniently smaller sized tree, growing around 7m tall and spreading 6 to 9m. Regular pruning will keep it a lot smaller.

Look out for dwarf varieties that only grow about 2 to 5 meters tall, making them suitable for smaller gardens and large containers.

Pinkerton avocados are typically harvested in South Africa from April to July. This period can vary slightly depending on local weather conditions.

Pinkerton avocados are identified as a ‘Type A’ variety of Guatemalan descent, though they were first cultivated in California. Although self-pollinating, Pinkerton is more reliant on having a cross-pollinator, which means it should be planted with a ‘Type B’ variety like ‘Fuerte’ or ‘Edranol’ for good fruit set.

Pinkerton avocados are also noted for their relatively good cold tolerance and are often grown in mild winter regions.

Avocado Edranol

Edranol is a sought-after variety known for its rich, nutty flavour and buttery, smooth flesh. It is a medium to large, oval to pear-shaped avocado with slightly pebbled dark green skin with corky lenticels.

Edranol is typically harvested in South Africa from June to September. The season starts earlier in Limpopo & Mpumalanga running from June to July, and starts later in KwaZulu-Natal, extending into late September.

The tree can grow around 10 metres tall, but can be comfortably kept to 4 to 5 metres with regular pruning.

Endranol is a ‘Type B’ avocado, and although self-pollinating, yields are more dependable when it is partnered with ‘Type A’ trees like ‘Hass’ or ‘Pinkerton’.

Avocado Ryan

The Ryan avocado is generally a medium to large size with an oval, egg-shape. It resembles Hass, but remains green on ripening. The skin is relatively thick, tough, and textured, and covered in raised pebble-like bumps.

The flesh is primarily yellow-green, with a thin, darker green ring below the skin. It is dense, creamy and smooth, with a mild, subtly sweet and earthy flavour. Ryan is a Mexican x Guatemalan hybrid variety with characteristically firm flesh, lending it to dishes where the flesh retains its shape. Therefore, it is suited for both fresh and cooked preparations.

Late-maturing Ryan trees are heavy bearers. In Limpopo the fruit ripens in August and September and in October in KwaZulu-Natal.

Ryan is a ‘Type B’ avocado and does best if cross pollinated with a ‘Type A’ avocado like ‘Hass’ or ‘Pinkerton’ to improve yields.

Ryan avocado trees can grow to between 6 and 12m tall, but can be pruned to keep the tree within bounds.

The trees are reasonably cold resistant.

Avocado 'Hass'In the Garden:

Though the fruit may be the main draw for many growers, avocado trees are also quite beautiful with their thick, bright green foliage and magnificent stature, adding ornamental value to large outdoor spaces.

Avocados can even be grown in large pots outdoors, though it will stifle their growth. Luckily breeders have been hard at work, and today dwarf varieties are becoming more freely available, and these are great in small gardens and pots.  Dwarf potted trees have an added advantage in that they can easily be covered or moved to sheltered positions in colder winter regions.

Health Benefits:

Although avocados have a high fat content they can be part of a successful weight management programme because the monounsaturated oil they contain is believed to speed up the body’s metabolic rate.

They are also rich sources of vitamins such as A, B6, E and C and minerals such as potassium and magnesium.

In the Kitchen:

The nutrient density and high fat content of avocado flesh has advantages for various cuisines, including vegetarian diets.
Avocados are glorious eaten straight out of the skin with a spoon, and their creamy, gentle nutty flavour makes them perfect for mixing with the robust flavours of chillies, peppers, coriander and lemon.

Mashed avocado is the principal ingredient of guacamole, and avocado trees are sometimes called “guacamole trees” after this dish that originated in Mexico.

Avocados are now used in just about every country in the world, in both sweet and savoury dishes - to flavour liquors, in Japanese sushi, and in Indonesia the flesh is even made into a milkshake.

There is a whole world of avocado recipes out there online, so search for your favourites and enjoy!

Avocado 'Fuerte' Cultivation:

CLICK HERE TO SHOP FOR AVOCADO TREES AND OTHER FRUITS AND NUTS

Pollination

Avocado trees require transfer of pollen from one flower to another for pollination to occur, which is best done by bees. Some cultivars require the pollen of another cultivar for fertilisation to take place, but cultivars such as Fuerte and Hass are self-compatible, and can be pollinated from the same cultivar.

For the best pollination, it is ideal to have at least two trees. Avocado trees are considered either Flower Type A or type B, and each type opens its flowers parts at different times of day. These different times make cross-pollination between the two types possible.

Therefore, for the best results when choosing which trees to plant ensure you have both type A and type B. 

What climate is best for growing Avocado trees?

Avocado trees thrive in warm and moist tropical and subtropical regions. The Mediterranean climate's mild winters and warm, dry summers also provide a favourable environment for avocado growth, provided the trees can be irrigated in summer. Water scarcity and salinity can be issues limiting yields in Mediterranean regions, requiring careful irrigation practices.

The ideal temperature range for avocado cultivation is between 15°C and 30°C.

Are Avocado trees hardy to cold and frost?

Although the trees should be able to withstand an occasional, very brief freeze, generally they are frost-sensitive.  Prolonged temperatures of -1°C or lower will be too cold for most avocado trees.

The Fuerte cultivar has a wider climate tolerance and can survive temperatures of -4°C, but it will not tolerate frost when flowering.

In colder regions it is best to keep the trees in pots which can be moved to an area protected from cold weather. Dwarf cultivars are now emerging on the market, and these are great to grow in pots which are easily moved or covered in winter.

How much sunlight do Avocado trees require?

These tropical trees thrive in plenty of sunshine, so plant in a location which receives at least eight hours of sunlight per day. The trees will tolerate some light shade but produce more fruits when kept in full sun.

Avocado trees are vulnerable to high winds

Try to select a planting location that offers wind protection. On more windy sites immature trees will benefit from support.

Are the roots of Avocado trees invasive?

Avocados are not particularly destructive as far as tree roots go, but keeping any large tree as far as possible from all concrete and masonry is always wise.

Avocado trees have a fibrous, shallow root system. This means they have many thin roots that spread out near the surface of the soil, rather than a single, deep taproot. Most of the roots are concentrated in the top 15 to 20cm of soil. Depending on the tree's size and age its roots can extend out to a remarkable diameter of 9m or more.

Therefore, all avocado trees should be planted at least 7 to 10m away from structures and other trees.

What soil type do Avocado trees require?

Avocado trees prefer rich, loamy, and well-draining soil. A soil pH that is acidic to neutral, between 5 and 7, is ideal. These trees are sensitive to alkaline soil.

If the soil does not drain well, amend it with sand or another well-draining substrate before planting.

How to plant an Avocado tree

The root system of avocado trees is sensitive so try not to disturb the roots during planting.

Plant your avocado trees in square, not round holes. The size of the holes will depend on the quality of the soil. In good soil prepare planting holes around 50cm deep and 75cm wide. In poor soil (clay-rich or gritty) dig holes 50cm deep and 1m wide.

When planting your Avocado tree amend the soil with a decent amount of compost or kraal manure to provide the tree with enough nutrients to start off with. Do not fertilise a young tree.

Place the bagged tree into the hole to ensure that it will not be planted too deep. Add or remove soil until the planting depth is correct.

Cut the plant bag off and carefully remove the tree, trying to disturb the roots as little as possible.

If you wish to stake your tree, plant the stake at the same time as you plant to ensure you do not damage the roots.

Fill in and compact the soil around the roots keeping the tree planted at the same level as before.

If you want to make a dam/pond around the plant to hold water, ensure that the soil drains well as avocado trees dislike standing in water for long. Or you could make sure that when the tree is planted it is slightly raised on a mound, to prevent stem rot.

Water thoroughly, ensuring that the water drains easily through the soil.

Cover the surface with coarse mulch to retain moisture, keeping it at least 15cm away from the tree stems.

How much water do Avocado trees require?

Young trees should be watered regularly until they are established. Depending on the weather, two to three times a week should suffice.

Avocados are quite thirsty trees, and all the water that’s needed to grow them is one reason why the fruit is quite expensive. For commercial production the trees are grown in regions which receive around 1,000mm of rainfall annually, and no less than 400mm. Water scarcity and salinity can be issues limiting yields in Mediterranean regions, requiring careful irrigation practices.

Mature trees should receive around 5cm of water per week.  In regions with an annual rainfall of less than 1,000mm annually avocado trees will need supplemental irrigation, and especially during flowering time.

The trees benefit from infrequent, deep watering as this encourages deeper, stronger root growth. During hot and dry summers, the trees may require even more frequent watering. Wait until the soil begins to dry out, then water deeply.

Although the trees require regular watering, their very sensitive root system will rot if there is too much water in the soil, so it’s vital to have soil that drains well.

Their shallow roots also make avocado trees more vulnerable to droughts and hot, dry conditions cause the flowers and fruit to drop, resulting in lower yields.

Mulch

Adding a layer of mulch around the tree can help the soil retain the right amount of moisture, and will offer protection to the tree's shallow root system. Don't mulch any closer than 15cm from the trunk.

How to fertilise Avocado trees

Do not apply any fertiliser in the first year of growth, rather wait until the trees are established and are growing vigorously.

During the second year and yearly thereafter feed your trees in July, December and April, giving each tree a good helping of kraal manure, and applying a fruit fertiliser like 3:1:5, or fertilisers specifically designed for avocado or citrus trees.

Fertilisers and mulch must be kept away from the stem of the tree to avoid collar rot.

Do Avocado trees require pruning?

Young avocado trees do not need to be pruned or thinned out, except to remove dead or unwanted branches. As some cultivars grow very tall it may be necessary to cut off the tops of the main branches of young trees to encourage the tree to branch out instead, and make the fruit more accessible.

Mature trees require occasional pruning. Light pruning can be done any time of year, though heavy pruning should be done in the early spring.

Prune thick areas to ensure adequate light and airflow. Cut back any dead wood and trim away V-shaped branches. Don't take off more than one-third of the length of each branch.

Harvesting:

Individual avocadoes only ripen fully after they are removed from the tree, so for commercial purposes the fruits are picked while unripe and are ripened after harvesting.

At home, to check if they are ready, pick a few of the biggest, best shaped specimens and keep them indoors. If, after 8 to 10 days, they do not shrivel up and are soft and edible you can begin harvesting.

Don't pick all of your avocados at once. If you pick a few at a time, you will be able to extend your harvest and enjoy the fruits of your labour for longer.

Avocado 'Ryan'Propagating Avocado Trees

Growing an avocado tree from a pip suspended over a container of water is fun, but trees grown this way can take from 5 to 15 years to produce fruit, as opposed to grafted trees which take about two years. Trees grown from pips, however, make lovely indoor container plants if placed in good light.

For fruit it is best to buy grafted trees from nurseries. If you are determined to grow at least one tree from seed try to obtain a seed from an old avocado tree that was itself grown from seed.

Propagation is primarily done through grafting, layering, or cuttings. Grafting is often done to combine the desirable qualities of two different varieties of avocados, while layering and starting cuttings are done to produce duplicate trees.

Cuttings:

You will need sharp cutters, moist and well-draining potting or seedling soil, a small pot, and a rooting hormone.

In the spring, select new growth that is five to six inches long and has several leaves that have not opened.

Cut the branch at a 45-degree angle.

Wound the cut end by scraping at the bark on either side of the cutting. This will encourage root production.

Dip the cutting into rooting hormone.

Bury the cut end into moist, well-draining soil.

Keep the soil moist and place the cutting in a warm, well-lit area.

After a couple of weeks, gently tug the cutting to check for resistance, which indicates root growth.

Repot the cutting into a larger pot to grow-on.

Air Layering an Avocado tree

You will need a sharp knife, a rooting medium that can be wrapped around a branch, and rope or tape to secure the rooting medium around the tree. 

Select the branch you would like to take as a new tree.

Using a clean knife cut two circles around the branch to create a section of bark that can be peeled away.

Once the bark is removed, scrape the inner branch to clean the cambium away.

Wrap the exposed inner branch with rooting material, such as compost or another rooting medium in a small bag (make sure the compost is wrapping the branch, not the bag). Secure around the branch with rope or tape.

In several weeks, roots should develop. When this occurs, remove the bag, cut the branch off below the formed roots, and plant the new tree.

Grafting an Avocado tree

You will need a sharp cutter and a sharp knife, as well as something to cover the grafted area, such as grafting tape.

Follow steps one and two as if you are taking a cutting.

Remove the tip of the cutting, along with any leaves that are present.

Then, wound the tree you would like to graft onto by removing a section of bark.

Make sure the cambium of the cutting and the cambium of the tree are touching.

Secure the cutting onto the tree with grafting tape, making sure to cover the exposed areas.

In a few weeks, the grafted branch and the main tree should be fused together.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Be alert to the presence of pests or early signs of disease and nutritional deficiencies. Prompt action is the best way to remedy any developing problems before they threaten the health of your avocado tree.

Nutritional Deficiencies

Nutritional deficiencies will show in the leaves:
Phosphor (P): Bronze young leaves.
Potassium (K): Yellow green leaves with dark veins.
Sulphur (S): Yellow new leaves
Iron (Fe): Yellow green leaves with light green veins
Boron (B): Green leaves with yellow margins and holes.
Zink (Zn): Rosette of small young leaves.
Zinc is extremely important for avocado trees. They require a high level of zinc for optimum growth, and as they are very sensitive to iron deficiency it is especially important to amend the soil with micronutrients.

Aphids

During flowering and formation of young leaves the plants are susceptible to green aphids. They feed on the sap, leaving a sticky residue and causing damage like curled leaves. These small, soft bodied green or black insects can be found clustering on new growth. To manage aphids on avocado trees, consider natural or organic options like insecticidal soap, neem oil, or attracting beneficial insects like ladybird bugs. Spray at times when pollinators like bees are least active.

Members can click here to read more about Aphids

Avocado Thrips

Avocado thrips are a major pest of avocado trees, causing significant scarring and economic losses, particularly on the fruit. Thrips develop well under cool temperatures, and numbers typically begin increasing in late winter and spring, and again in autumn. They feed on young leaves and fruit, primarily resulting in a characteristic "alligator skin" appearance on the fruit surface

Effective organic methods include biological control with beneficial insects, insecticidal soaps, and neem oil. Spinosad is also an organically acceptable insecticide. Consider applying these treatments thoroughly, especially on the undersides of leaves, and repeat applications as needed.

Avocado Brown Mite

This mite can cause leaf shedding and reduced fruit quality. Their feeding causes small coppery-red necrotic spots that eventually coalesce into larger ones, reducing significantly the photosynthetic capability of trees and plants and greatly reducing their production of nutrients. Heavy infestations can cause wilting and defoliation of the leaves, leaving the trees and fruit susceptible to sunburn.

For avocado mites, organic insecticides include neem oil which can be mixed with water and dish soap for spraying. Insecticidal soap can also be used as a spray, and introducing predatory mites can help control the mite population. Additionally, cultural practices like pruning and removing weeds can help manage the mite problem.

Members can click here to read more about Mites

Scale

Many scale species are serious crop pests. The waxy covering of some species protects them effectively against contact insecticides, which are only effective against the crawlers. However, scales often are controlled by oils, systemic pesticides or biological control agents such as ladybirds, parasitoid wasps and Coccinellid beetles. For gardeners neem oil and insecticidal soap sprays work well.

Members can click here to read more about Scale

Phytophthora Root Rot

This is a soil-borne fungus that infects many plants, including avocados. It attacks host plants, especially under moderate to warm, moist conditions, infecting the feeder root system and causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing, wilting, dieback of branches and eventual death. Young infected trees may die rapidly; older trees may survive for several years.

Purchasing disease-free, certified plants and avoiding planting where avocados previously grew, or where soil drainage is poor, are the best preventative steps you can take.

The disease is easily transported by equipment, tools and shoes from infected soils. Once a tree is infected there is little that can be done other than to reduce watering and to remove soil from around the base of the tree down to the top of the main roots and allow the crown tissue to dry out. Keep water away from the crown and trunk by only watering at the dripline.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose is a pre-harvest and a post-harvest problem that can cause serious losses. The most important symptom is fruit spotting, and brown lesions that enlarge and eventually cover large areas of the fruit’s surface. The pulp beneath the lesions becomes soft and discoloured, leaving the fruit inedible. Fruit drops prematurely.

Where leaves are infected, a brown necrotic band spreads inwards from the margin. In severe cases, this may spread to the branch. Infected flowers turn red or brown and drop off later.

Treatment for home gardeners involves a combination of preventative measures and fungicides. Key preventative measures include removing infected plant material, maintaining good sanitation, and avoiding overhead irrigation. For treatment, copper-based fungicides are recommended. Other options include neem oil and sulphur powders.

Warning

It is important to keep in mind that all parts of this tree, including the fruit, are toxic to a wide range of animals