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Spring Almond Blossoms Image by Carlos Ramón Bonilla from PixabayDescription, History & Interesting Facts

Almonds have a rich history that can be traced back thousands of years to Western and Central Asia where they grew wild, and there is evidence of nomadic tribes grinding up bitter almond kernels for use in high-energy snacks long before they were domesticated around 4000 BC.

The development of the "sweet" almond mutation in the Middle East allowed for intentional cultivation, making almonds, along with dates, two of the first cultivated foods in their native regions. The nuts soon became a luxury food with cultural significance, and their durability made them a staple for travellers along ancient trade routes, encouraging their propagation into new regions.

Almonds were found in ancient Egyptian tombs like Tutankhamun's; and aside from archaeological evidence, almonds are also referenced in historical manuscripts from Greek mythology to the Bible, in which we see reference to both almond trees and almond fruit.

From 600 to 900AD explorers traveling the ‘Silk Road’ between Asia and the Mediterranean enjoyed the nutritious properties of almonds on their travels. Many uneaten kernels which fell onto the ground sprouted, facilitating their spread from the Middle East to China, India, and the Mediterranean.

The Phoenicians and Greeks, followed by the Romans, introduced almond cultivation to Southern Europe and North Africa, and the trees thrived in areas such as Spain, Italy, Greece, Morocco, and Israel, but Spain is the only country that has maintained a significant almond industry and is still a producer of almonds today.

The Romans gifted sugared almonds as fertility charms, and newlyweds in ancient Rome were showered with almonds. In Greek mythology, the almond tree in bloom represents hope, while sweet almonds are said to mark the beginning of a prosperous journey.

The Roman idea that almonds are a symbol of decadent luxury and good fortune continues in many of our cultures today. Almonds are still considered to be good luck and are handed out to wedding guests in many ceremonies held across Mediterranean countries such as Italy and Greece. Aside from being a symbol of hope and good fortune, in these regions it is also still believed that almonds can help to bring about fertility, an old belief that is now backed up by science!

The love affair with almonds continued, inspiring Van Gogh to paint his Almond Blossoms Series while living in Arlès and Saint-Rémy in Southern France, in 1890 AD. They remain some of his most beloved paintings.

Spanish missionaries brought the first almond trees to California in the mid 1700’s though they did not thrive until new varieties were introduced in the warmer interior valleys in the 1800’s. By the 20th century California's almond industry was firmly established, and crossbreeding had created several of today's commonly grown varieties.

Today California is the biggest producer of almonds, growing approximately 80 percent of the world's supply, followed by Spain and Australia as secondary producers. Australia is the largest almond production region in the Southern Hemisphere, where most of the almond orchards are located along the Murray River corridor in New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia. Spain has diverse commercial cultivars of almonds which are grown in Catalonia, Valencia, Murcia, Andalusia, and Aragón regions, as well as the Balearic Islands. Greece, and Morocco are also top commercial producers, and additional commercial growing occurs in Iran, Tunisia, Chile, and South Africa.

South Africa only produces around 200 to 300 tons of almonds per year, and imports around 3000 tons of almonds per year, with Nonpareil accounting for about 50% of this. After decades of slow development, our almond industry is currently booming due to high local demand, better prices, improved farming techniques and the use of self-fertile, high-yield cultivars.

Commercial almond production in South Africa is focused in the Western Cape, because of its Mediterranean climate, similar to regions in California and Spain. Key areas include the Klein Karoo, and the Breede River Valley and Olifants River Valley.

Almond (Prunus dulcis)

Prunus is a genus of flowering trees and shrubs from the family Rosaceae. The genus includes plums, cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots and almonds.  The almond is not a true nut, botanically it is a drupe (a fleshy fruit with a single seed), much like a peach or cherry. The trees are deciduous and typically small to medium-sized, reaching a height of 4.5 to 9 meters with a rounded or slightly spreading canopy.

The serrated leaves appear in early spring, and depending on the variety, the striking pink or white blossoms can appear anytime from July to early September. The trees typically start bearing nuts from the third year after planting and reach peak production between 6 and 8 years, but remain productive for 20 to 25 years.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ALMOND TREES AND OTHER NUTS AND FRUITS AT OUR ONLINE SHOP

Uses of Almonds:

Almonds have played a significant role in the lives of humans for more than 5000 years, and thanks to their delicious flavour, dense nutritional properties, longevity, transportability, and versatility, they will likely continue to do so for many more years to come.

There are two main types of almond, sweet and bitter. We consume the sweet type whilst the bitter variety is used to make almond oil or amaretto. Almond milk is also used as a base for various skin care products.

Almonds can be sold raw, roasted, or processed into oil, butter, or flour. With rising global demand, especially in health-conscious markets, almonds offer high returns for well-managed farms.

Health Benefits:

Compared to other nuts, almonds are the most nutrient packed of them all, earning them the titles ‘modern superfood’ and ‘nutritional powerhouse’. Almonds contain many vital health nutrients and are a very good source of manganese, copper, biotin and vitamin E, and a good source of fibre, riboflavin (vitamin B2), magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and molybdenum.

Almonds are also regarded as the most fertility nutrient packed of all nuts as they are high in important reproductive system nutrients including zinc and L-arginine. They are among the world’s best sources of vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant that is thought to improve sperm quality and motility in men. A study showed that eating only seven almonds a day improved sperm quality!

Almonds are an important regulator of sex hormones in both men and women. In women, vitamin E may help regulate the production of cervical mucus, which is important for conception, due to its ability to support live sperm for several days.  Almonds also help improve insulin resistance, which is important for women with PCOS, a condition where the body becomes less effective at lowering blood sugar levels. Insulin resistance can reduce fertility in women, especially when combined with abdominal weight gain.

Almonds are extremely high in magnesium, a mineral that many people don’t get enough of. High magnesium intake may offer major improvements for metabolic syndrome and type 2 diabetes.

Almonds are cholesterol free and contain unsaturated fats similar to those in olive oil and also vitamin E, both of which are important in maintaining a healthy heart.

Macaroons Image by 2cassis from PixabayIn the Kitchen:

Almond trees flourished in Spain, Greece and North Africa during the middle ages, and chefs went nuts about almond milk and everything ‘almond’, resulting in the nuts becoming the key ingredient in desserts like marzipan and nougat, and today almonds are used in cuisines around the world.

Due to their nutritional value and taste the use of almonds in cuisines around the world has also increased dramatically in the past 30 years, with the nut now used to make a variety of non-dairy alternatives in dairy-free milks, yogurt, cheese, butter and even chocolate, solidifying their place in health-conscious diets. Almonds can be enjoyed raw or roasted, as a snack or in salads, baking and confectionary.

Easy ways to include almonds in your daily diet include chopping them to sprinkle onto cereals and yoghurts or toasting them to enjoy on pasta. Spread almond butter on toast or make an almond dip to serve with apple wedges and celery. Try substituting almond milk for some of your daily cow’s milk on cereals and in smoothies. There is a world of almond recipes on the internet, so search for your family favourites.

In Mediterranean regions almonds remain an integral part of the health-focused Mediterranean diet and lifestyle. The Italians started the tradition of giving almonds as wedding favours, and now they use them to mark other milestones too, using red candy coated almonds for graduations, green for engagements, blue for a baby boy and pink for a baby girl.

The Swedes have been known to hide an almond in rice pudding as a symbol of good fortune, and whoever finds it is said to get married in the coming year.  Almonds are used for Germany's mouth-watering marzipan confections, and in France almonds are used in French patisserie treats such as macaroons, almond marzipan and almond-cream-filled puff pastries called “galette des rois” (the cake of the kings) which are enjoyed on the Feast of the Epiphany.

In India almonds are considered brain food for kids and play a key role in traditional sweets known as “mithai”. Almonds are also a common gift during the festival of Diwali. In China almonds are most popular during autumn and winter, and especially during the Chinese New Year as a roasted, salted snack. The Japanese love their delicate oval balls of almonds coated in chocolate, and pretzel sticks dipped in dark or white chocolate and coated with diced almonds.

In the Garden:

More and more gardeners today are planting fruit and nut bearing trees in their gardens to provide shade and also valuable crops. This is not just about sustainability and food security but because these trees are also very beautiful in the landscape.  Yes, they do require a lot more work to maintain but many gardeners don’t find this a chore at all, but rather rewarding.

Almonds are not typically giant trees, making them manageable for many home gardens.  They are most attractive, forming a nice, rounded, or spreading canopy that provides light, dappled shade in summer whilst allowing the winter sunshine in. Their spring blossoms are sure to delight, and although they can be considered messy when the hulls dry and drop, if the whole family gets involved in harvesting you will reap the rewards of having your own home grown almonds.

An attractive alternative to free-standing trees is to plant your tree against a north-facing wall or fence, and espalier it into a fan shape.

Members can click here to read my article "How to grow fruit trees in small spaces"

CLICK HERE TO BUY ALMOND TREES AND OTHER NUTS AND FRUITS AT OUR ONLINE SHOP

Almond Varieties for South African Gardens

Almond ‘Ne Plus Ultra’

Ne Plus Ultra is a well-known, widely cultivated sweet almond variety. Originating from France but a staple in California, it is a popular, high-yielding and early-harvesting almond known for its large, soft-shelled, sweet nuts

In South Africa Ne Plus Ultra is an early-blooming variety, often blooming about a week ahead of 'Nonpareil'. Blooms typically appear in late winter to early spring, from Mid-July to early September, with full bloom generally occurring in early August. Harvesting starts in the first week of February.

Ne Plus Ultra has good heat and drought tolerance, and has an upright, spreading habit, growing between 4 to 6m tall. It is a low-chill variety, with some sources listing it as low as 250 hours, and others recommending 400 to 500 hours of winter chilling below 7°C, making it suitable for moderate climates. Due to its early blooming, the blossoms are susceptible to frost damage.

The 'Ne Plus Ultra' almond is generally considered self-incompatible (or at best partially self-fertile), requiring another variety for effective cross-pollination. It crops best with pollinators like Nonpareil and Texas Mission.  Ne Plus Ultra is an excellent pollinator for most other varieties, and is generally used as a secondary almond crop to pollinate the main variety.

Almond ‘Nonpareil’

Nonpareil, which means ‘unequalled excellence’, is an early-blooming variety which is the most popular almond in the world. However, various other excellent commercial varieties have since been developed in the United States and Spain since the arrival of Nonpareil. It is a gold-standard variety, known for its excellent, mild, and sweet flavour, making it the most popular almond used for snacking and blanching, and due to its smooth, thin-shelled, light-coloured kernels, is sought after in culinary applications.

The trees grow about 3 to 8m tall and feature a spreading canopy. The blossoms appear from middle to late July to September, with peak bloom usually occurring in August. Harvesting starts in February. Nonpareil requires around 300 to 500 chill hours in winter to break dormancy, and thrives in climates with moderate winters.

Nonpareil is needs a pollinator, and is an excellent cross pollinator for most other almond varieties. Due to its robust nature and synchronized flowering, Peerless is considered the top cross pollinator for Nonpareil.

Almond ‘Peerless’

Peerless is a top performer for home gardeners and commercial growers alike, known for its large sweet kernels encased in sturdy shells, and high yield of plump exceptional quality nuts. This hardy tree produces consistent harvests of premium nuts that are perfect for eating fresh, roasting, or baking.  Because Peerless has hard, very well sealed seed shells it is the leading almond variety to sell un-shelled.

What sets the Peerless almond tree apart is its vigour and ability to produce reliable, high-quality almonds even in harsher conditions. It is drought-tolerant and thrives in a variety of soil types, making it a resilient and rewarding tree to grow.

Peerless has low chilling requirements around 375 to 400 to break dormancy, and generally starts blooming about 2 days ahead of Nonpareil, from middle to late July to September, with peak bloom usually occurring in August. Therefore Peerless and Nonpareil are great cross-pollinators for each other. Harvesting starts in February.

Almond ‘Texas Mission’

Texas Mission, often referred to as ‘Texas’ or ‘Texas Prolific’ produces small but fat, light brown nuts of a good eating quality. It is a late-blooming, hardy variety, making it well-suited to regions with late frost risks. Texas Mission is one of the top 10 almond cultivars in the world, and performs well in gardens where it often produces a heavy crop.

The tree has a strong and upright growth habit, reaching 4.5 to 7m tall.  It has fairly high chill requirements, requiring approximately 500 chill hours in winter when temperatures drop below 7°C. Texas Mission is hardy and suitable for areas that experience moderate winter cold and frost. It has excellent resistance to pests and diseases. However, it is intolerant of salt and performs poorly in brackish soils or under salty irrigation.

Texas Mission generally starts blooming in late July to mid-August and is in full bloom in late August to early September.  It is easily harvested and first pick harvesting starts during the third week of February. It is a semi self-compatible variety which bears best when planted with cross-pollinators like Nonpareil.

Almond ‘Alfahem’

Alfahem, also known as ‘El Fahem’ or 'Umm Al-Fahm', is a popular almond distinguished by its consistent yield of premium nuts with a sweet taste and smooth texture. This versatile tree thrives in both home gardens and commercial orchards, offering an abundant harvest year after year.

It is an early-to-mid season bloomer, starting in August, with some reports noting the season starting in late August through September in certain districts. Depending on bloom time, first pick harvesting starts from mid to late February.

Its resilience to drought and ability to adapt to various soil types make Alfahem a standout choice for growers looking for a low-maintenance, high-reward tree. With moderate to low chilling requirements, this variety requires approximately 300 to 400 hours of winter chill below 7°C to break dormancy. Avoid planting in regions with late-spring frosts that can damage early blooms.

Alfahem is self-incompatible, meaning it requires a pollination partner to bear fruit. The best companion trees for cross-pollination include varieties like Peerless, Ne Plus Ultra, and Nonpareil.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ALMOND TREES AND OTHER NUTS AND FRUITS AT OUR ONLINE SHOP

Almonds Tree Image by Josevi Parra from PixabayCultivation:

What is the best climate for growing almonds?

In South Africa almonds thrive in the same areas where stone fruit and wine grapes can be produced. The Western Cape is most suited for almond production because of its Mediterranean climate characterized by mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers, with low humidity. Almond trees thrive in the Klein Karoo, Breede River and Olifants River Valley.

What position is best for almond trees?

Almonds require a sheltered sunny spot in the garden.

Are almond trees frost and cold tolerant?

Cold hardiness is -2.2C°, and temperatures as low as -0.5 C° may kill young trees. Almonds are sensitive to frost during bloom time. To reduce the risk of losing blooms to spring freezes it is important to choose varieties known to grow well in your area. Cold damage to spring blossoms is a major limiting factor in where almonds can be successfully grown.

Do almond trees require winter chilling?

Temperate climate fruits like apples, pears, peaches, cherries,  and nuts like almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts and chestnuts are typically grown in mid-latitudes  and require distinct seasons, including a cold period to break dormancy. Most almond varieties require a shorter chill period compared to walnuts or hazelnuts. This explains why they blossom earlier than other fruit trees and why it is impossible to grow almond trees in the tropics.

However, unlike apples which require between 500 and 1000+ chill hours, almond trees only require between 200 to 600 hours of cold weather during their dormancy period in winter, where the temperatures fall below 7°C, followed by warm, dry conditions for flowering and nut development.  During an extremely mild winter the chilling requirement may not be satisfied, leading to an uneven bloom, poor pollination, and reduced yields.

Conversely, if a tree is grown where winter cold satisfies its chilling requirements, and there is a spell of warmer weather this can result in the trees to breaking dormancy and blooming earlier. If this warm spell is followed by a late spring freeze, this could damage the blooms and result in a poor harvest.

Chilling that exceeds a fruit tree’s minimum requirement , and which is not followed by late spring freezes can lead to a stronger bloom and a heavier crop that will require more thinning for best fruit quality and size.

Do almond trees require cross-pollination?

Although the flowers of some almond varieties are self-compatible, most of the widely planted garden varieties are self-incompatible and require pollen from a tree with different genetic characters, and which blooms around the same time as the main crop, to produce crops. Even self-compatible varieties bear better with other varieties, so it is highly recommended that you select cross-pollinators.

In orchards, two different pollinators are used, generally one blooming slightly before and the other slightly after the main cultivar.

In smaller gardens you can get away with planting only 2 or 3 trees that are known to pollinate each other because they bloom around the same time.

The pollen is transferred from flower to flower by insects, so commercial growers and home growers must ensure there are a variety of insects, and especially bees, to perform this task.

Commercial farmers rely heavily on bees for pollination, and home gardeners are encouraged to attract insect pollinators and bees by planting flowers and herbs to attract them into the garden.

Commercial growers use companion plants like clovers and other legumes planted in corridors between the rows within the orchard, as they contribute to soil fertility and attract pollinators.

What soil type is best for growing almonds?

There is no best soil for growing almonds, as they are remarkably adaptable and can grow in a diverse range of soil types, spanning from sandy clay to sandy loam. To reach their full potential plant in soils distinguished by their lightness, fertility, depth, and good drainage capabilities.

Soil acidity or alkalinity is rarely a limitation for the almond trees’ growth, since they grow well in areas with a pH between 5.5 and 8.5. However, most seasoned farmers adjust the soil pH to between 6.5 and 8.

Almond trees are extremely sensitive to salt. Growing trees suffer from dehydration because of soil salinization and dangerous amounts of salt ions can begin to build up in the trunk and leaves this dramatically decreases the yield.

While almonds are drought-tolerant and grow and even bear fruit in dry soils for years, the resulting harvest will be significantly lower. Soil aridity is less of an issue near the end of the growing season than it is at the start.

It has also been found that trees produce less when growing in heavy, clayish, poorly-drained soils, which can stunt growth and reduce yields, and also encourage the growth of plant-killing fungi.

Incorporate plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting. Mulch the soil around your trees in spring with well-rotted organic matter, keeping the mulch well away from the trunks.

Planting and spacing almond trees

Almond trees are planted in rectangular or hexagonal arrangements, with separate rows of pollinators and main cultivars, usually alternating with each other.

The success of an almond tree planting relies heavily on providing the right growing conditions for the trees to take root. It’s important to give the roots a nice drink of water before putting them in the ground, so they can grow and establish themselves quickly.

Almonds, like many other nut trees, are extremely sensitive to having their taproot clipped or shoved into a hole that is too small. A wide hole is better than a very deep one but ensure that it is at least 60cm deep. To prevent matting, handle the other roots with the same care.

When you fill in the hole, make sure to pack the soil firmly around the roots, and ensure the graft union stays above the soil line to avoid disease. Once the hole is filled, give the tree plenty of water. It is not essential to feed at this stage, but you can fertilise lightly.

Space your trees 6 to 7 meters apart to ensure good air circulation.

You may need to use a tree guard to protect the stem of your young tree from animal and insect pests like borers.

How much water do almond trees require?

Rainfall is harmful anytime during the blooming and harvesting periods. Rain decreases bee activity and therefore fruit set, and during fruit development rain may cause fungal and bacterial diseases. Prior to harvest it can also cause brown rot on the fruits as shucks split.

Although almonds are drought tolerant, with a limited canopy and relatively shallow but wide root system, almonds must be watered correctly. Young trees need regular watering every 7 to 10 days. Mature trees also require irrigation during dry periods, especially during flowering, nut setting, and filling stages. Commercial farmers ensure the trees receive about 10 000 cubic metres of water per hectare per season.

On the other hand, if the nuts receive rain week after week, the trees are prone to rot.

A wet environment on the leaves and fruits from overhead watering might encourage fungi to grow. Therefore, farmers often use subsurface drip watering and deep root watering to prevent this. They also save a lot on water as these systems are more economical and eco-friendly, since they eliminate wasteful water evaporation.

In the garden, drip irrigation or watering your trees by hand at ground level is best.

Fertilising almond trees

Nutrient deficiencies in almond trees can manifest through various symptoms like discoloured leaves, reduced growth, and poor fruit yields.

The three primary macronutrients in fertilisers, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), called NPK, are very important for all plants, and also almonds.

Nitrogen (N)

Most of the nitrogen applied to an almond tree becomes part of the kernel, hull and shell, and the trees pull large amounts of nitrogen from the soil, and of all nut trees, almonds are the most nitrogen demanding. In almond trees, nitrogen is needed to renew and invigorate fruiting wood, and for fruit growth and development. The greatest need for nitrogen occurs when the almond trees come into production.

A lack of nitrogen often leads to yellowing leaves.

For young trees, applying small but consistent applications of nitrogen throughout the growing season is very beneficial.

Mature trees have lower fertiliser needs and require most of their nitrogen in early spring. Therefore, a light late summer application before the leaves drop in autumn will provide the tree with sufficient nitrogen for early spring growth. Another application should be applied during spring when the trees are actively growing.

Apply a uniform irrigation that is adequate to carry the nitrogen into but not past the root zone.

In excess, nitrogen can lead to excessive vegetative growth, which can create shading for fruiting wood, and have a detrimental effect on nut quality.

Phosphorus (P)

Phosphorus, although needed in much smaller quantities, is particularly important for root development, flower initiation and energy transport within the tree.

Potassium (K)

While potassium is utilized by the tree to support growth, it is also critical during nut development for nut-fill and the highest yields.

Almond kernels contain 0.75% K (USDA data); and potassium represents more than 2% of the dry weight of almond hulls. Therefore it makes sense that if potassium and nitrogen are removed from the soil in the greatest quantities by the trees, they must be replaced at high levels. 

Calcium (Ca)

Calcium helps build the tree and is particularly important for the development of good quality, disease resistant nuts.

Sulphur (S)

Sulphur has an important role as it supports the efficient production of proteins.  It can be supplied with potassium or magnesium fertilisers in the form of potassium sulphate or magnesium sulphate.

Magnesium Sulphate

Known in most households as “Epsom Salts”, it is a combination of Magnesium and Sulphur. Both nutrients are beneficial for plant health, being responsible for chlorophyll formation and the plants’ ability to produce food such as protein, carbohydrates and sugars, and therefore plant energy.

Magnesium is used for correcting and balancing soil chemistry ratios between Calcium, Magnesium and Potassium, to correct soil structure and bind sandy soils for water and nutrient retention.

While levels of magnesium are normally adequate in most garden soils, maintenance applications may be needed to maintain production and quality.

Micronutrients

Micronutrients are essential elements plants need in tiny amounts for vital functions like photosynthesis, enzyme activation, and cell structure.

Many organic based and chemical NPK fertilisers are enriched with macro and micro elements.

For home gardeners Trelmix, a trace element solution, is easy for to apply to plants to remedy the deficiencies listed below.

Iron (Fe)

The micronutrient taken up in greatest quantities by almond trees is iron. Symptoms of iron deficiency appear on young leaves first, showing as a light green to yellow tissue coloration between the veins. Groves which have been planted on soils with high pH levels (highly alkaline), and which often contain calcium carbonate can suffer from iron deficiency.  Iron application early in the season is very important.

Boron (B) & Zinc (Zn)

Boron and zinc are both required for strong tissue growth, and important for flowering and pollination to ensure good fruit set. Because they need to be readily available to the tree before flowering, applications are best applied prior to nitrogen application in the spring.

Boron deficiency may be a problem in orchards on sandy soils and/or where irrigation water is low in Boron, causing the following problems: Low nut set, excessive nut drop, malformed nuts, and undesirable vegetative growth.

Zinc helps to maintain growth processes, especially new tissue development.

Magnesium (Mg)

Magnesium (Mg) is a critical nutrient for almond trees, and essential for leaf health, photosynthesis, and overall tree vigour. Deficiency symptoms often appear after periods of rapid shoot growth, starting with yellowing on the basal (older) leaves.

Almond Nuts Image by Pictavio from PixabayHarvesting

How long do almond trees take to bear?

The trees typically start bearing nuts from the third year after planting and reach peak production between 7 and 8 years.

When are almonds harvested?

Depending on the tree variety, almonds are usually ready for harvest between late summer and early autumn (January to April).

The nuts go through 3 ripening stages. During the first stage, the almond hulls are completely closed. During the second stage the hulls start to split open but the nuts will remain attached to the shell, indicating they aren’t ripe yet. At this stage the nuts will start to slowly dry as they are now exposed to the sun and wind. Stage three is when around 95% of the hulls have broken open. The first husk splits appears at the top of the tree and spread downward. Nuts that have fallen from the tree are another sign to begin harvesting.

During harvest time, it’s essential to pick the nuts immediately. Gardeners shake the nuts off manually, and farmers use mechanical harvesters.

As soon as you harvest your almonds, remove the hull from the shells. It is easy to peel off with your hands if you harvest at the right time. To prevent mould, place your shelled almond in a drying tray and allow them to dry completely before storing.

Post-harvest care of almond trees

Providing nutrients and water to your trees after they have been harvested is crucial to their long-term health. Post-harvest feeding fosters enhanced root growth and carbohydrate rebuilding, as well as vigorous flower formation and leaf expansion in the next growing season.

Never skip the post-harvest irrigation of almonds. If you water your trees after harvest, their leaves will stay vigorous until they drop in autumn. By avoiding early defoliation, you give the tree enough time to move nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus from the leaves to the fruit spurs, where they are needed for bloom and fruit formation next season.

Applying a dressing of Nitrogen fertiliser after harvesting is recommended. You can apply nitrogen on its own or mixed with other nutrients such as calcium, potassium, and phosphorus.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning promotes better growth and is essential for shaping the trees for maximum productivity and nut quality. Almond trees in South Africa are primarily pruned during their dormant winter season, from late June through July. Pruning serves distinct purposes throughout the phases of your trees growth. Pruning of young trees is to help form scaffold branches, and later in its growth to regulate the tree’s height.

Young trees are headed at 1m, and in the first year of growth it is a good practice to prune almonds into an open vase shape with 3 to 4 nicely spaced scaffold branches. In subsequent years scaffolds are trained to fill their allotted spaces in the tree.

At maturity, pruning consists of water-sprout removal, removal of dead and interfering branches, and limb thinning. Little pruning is needed since so many fruiting points are needed for cropping, and vigour is low in mature trees.

Since fruiting spurs live for about 5 years, fruiting wood should be renewed every 5 years. Alternatively, 20% of the canopy should be pruned back each year to allow new wood to grow and replace the old.

In practice, almond trees can be pruned every other year with no loss of productivity. Under proper management, trees should have many 38 to 50cm long 1-year-old shoots. These shoots will branch, grow spurs, and become fruiting wood in subsequent years.

Pruning also helps to improve air circulation. This helps in disease prevention and ensures better sunlight penetration for nut development.

CLICK HERE TO BUY ALMOND TREES AND OTHER NUTS AND FRUITS AT OUR ONLINE SHOP

Almond Problems:

Nutrient Deficiencies

Nutrient deficiencies in almond trees can manifest through various symptoms like discoloured leaves, reduced growth, and poor fruit yields.

Such imbalances can arise from improper fertilisation practices, soil conditions, and competition from weeds. Key nutrients to monitor include nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium.

Find correct fertilisation requirements under Cultivation above.

Water Stress and Irrigation Issues

Water stress profoundly affects almond tree health, with both over-watering and under-watering posing significant risks.

Insufficient watering, especially in sandy or quick-draining soils, deprives the tree of vital moisture essential for nutrient transport and cellular functions, leading to wilting and eventual leaf drop.

Conversely, overwatering can lead to root asphyxiation, promoting conditions conducive to root rot and fungal diseases.

Both scenarios impede the tree’s ability to uptake necessary nutrients, compounding existing deficiencies.

Implementing an irrigation schedule that considers seasonal variations, soil type, and tree age is essential.

Almond Pests:

Almond trees can fall prey to numerous pests and diseases that impair their growth and productivity. Common pests include aphids, and spider mites. This makes early detection and management essential.

Management Tips Include:

Cultural Controls: Prune infested branches, ensure proper irrigation to prevent stress, and remove weeds that host pests.

Biological Control: Encourage natural predators like ladybirds for aphid control.

Chemical/Organic Control: Apply dormant oils/sprays in early spring, and use insecticidal soaps or specific miticides during the growing season for mite and scale outbreaks.

Use organic or chemical sprays only when necessary.

Aphids

These common sap-sucking insects cause leaf curling and, along with scales, exude honeydew, which attracts ants and promotes sooty mould.

Members can click here to read more about Aphids

Click here to see Google Images of Aphids in South Africa

Scale Insects

Scale insects attach themselves to stems and leaves and suck nutrients from the plant. They require treatment with oil-based sprays.

Members can click here to read more about Scale

Click here to see Google Images of Scale Insects in South Africa

Ants

While not causing direct tree damage, ants protect aphids and scales from predators and can impact harvest.

Spider Mites (Red Spider Mite, European Red Mite, Citrus Red Mite)

These tiny pests thrive in hot conditions causing leaves to turn yellow, bronzed, and curl downwards.

Members can click here to read more about Spider Mites

Click here to see Google Images of Spider Mites in South Africa

Thrips

Thrips attack flowers and young leaves, causing discolouration and distortion.

Click here to see Google Images of Thrips in South Africa

Caterpillars

Caterpillars like leafrollers feed on foliage and can skeletonize leaves.

Click here to see Google Images of Leafroller Caterpillars

Twig Wilters

Twig wilters like the Gardenia twig wilter is a central and Southern African species of Coreidae in the order Hemiptera. They inject enzymes into young twigs, causing them to wilt, and are common pests on fruit-bearing trees and shrubs.

Click here to see Google Images of Twig-wilters in Southern Africa

Root Nematodes:

Nematodes can severely damage root systems, particularly in young trees.

Click here to see Google Images of Nematodes in South Africa

Almond Diseases:

Diseases such as bacterial spot and various other fungal infections can further debilitate the trees if left unchecked. These typically manifest as leaf spots, cankers, or shoot dieback, necessitating regular inspection and prompt treatment.

Management Strategies:

The best way to keep tree diseases at bay is to put up a strong defense.

Pruning:

Pruning disturbs the cambium layer of trees, so the risk of infection grows. This means you should keep pruning tools clean to prevent the spread of disease.

Orchard Hygiene:

Removing mummified fruit and infected twigs can reduce the inoculum source.

Irrigation Management:

Avoiding overhead irrigation minimizes the spread of the bacteria. Drip irrigation in best.

Preventative Spraying:

Preventative spraying and early detection of any disease outbreaks and management is essential. Fungicides help prevent many fungal infections from growing in almond plants. To reduce the likelihood of resistance developing, fungicide chemicals should be rotated.

Bacterial Spot

This pathogen is a significant concern for almond and stone fruit producers, causing leaf spots, fruit blemishes, and, in some cases, defoliation and yield reduction.

Multiple applications of copper-based Bactericides are recommended to protect trees, starting early in the season (e.g. budswell, pink bud).

Click here to see Google Images of Almond Bacterial Spot

Caution:

Given that almonds are a tree nut, which is one of the 9 most common allergens, avoid almonds if you are allergic to them.

Almonds contain quite high levels of oxalates – so if you have kidney/gallstone issues it may be wise to avoid almonds and remember to always check with your GP if you are unsure.

AgeratumIs Ageratum invasive?

Did you know that the Mexican Ageratum (Ageratum houstonianum) and Ageratum conyzoides are classified as invasive plants in South Africa? However, the Mexican Ageratum (Ageratum houstonianum) is still available in garden centres and for the cut flower market, as some specific F1 cultivars have been bred to be sterile, or have very low seed viability to prevent them from becoming invasive.

The Mexican Ageratum (Ageratum houstonianum) and Ageratum conyzoides are native to Central and South America as well as the West Indies. They are very similar in appearance and difficult to tell apart. Both the wild type and most open-pollinated cultivars of Ageratum houstonianum have escaped garden cultivation and have become weeds in all parts of the world.

In South Africa they are classed as NEMBA Category 1b, invading a wide range of habitats including gardens, verges and grasslands, and are particularly invasive throughout KwaZulu-Natal.

Category 1b invasive species require compulsory control as part of an invasive species control programme. Remove and destroy. These plants are deemed to have such a high invasive potential that infestations can qualify to be placed under a government sponsored invasive species management programme. No permits will be issued to grow these plants. To eradicate this plant, hand pulling works well but for large infestations use a suitable herbicide.

Are F1 Ageratum houstonianum Hybrids Sterile?

Seed companies successfully introduced F1 hybrid ageratum cultivars in the mid-20th century by using either self-incompatibility or genetic male sterility as a pollination control. However, the sterility of F1 Ageratum houstonianum Hybrids is debatable as they can still produce viable seeds because plant breeders use methods like self-incompatibility systems to facilitate commercial F1 seed production, not necessarily to create sterile plants for the garden.

Some specific F1 cultivars have specifically been bred to be sterile, or have very low seed viability to prevent them from becoming invasive.

'Blue Horizon' is a triploid F1 hybrid strain, specifically developed for the cut-flower market. It does not set seed and is effectively sterile.

'Southern Cross' is another F1 cultivar noted as sterile, producing no seeds.

If you want to cultivate ageratum, to ensure a non-invasive planting, look for specific, proven-sterile hybrids and purchase from a reliable source.

Click here to read more about Ageratum

Clocolan Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaTo keep your autumn roses in perfect condition, you must continue to spray against insects and  fungal infections. Early autumn rain, high humidity and heavy dew are perfect conditions for fungal infections. Red spiders can be a serious problem in dry, hot weather. 

Always choose an organic or natural spray and mix only enough for your immediate requirements, spraying only the infected plants. It is not necessary to spray the entire garden! Although organic sprays are much less harmful than other pesticides, they could harm some beneficial insects in the garden. We do not know everything there is to know about them yet, so exercise caution when using them.

If you have chosen to garden organically but you simply must have some roses; remember that "prevention is better than cure", and spray regularly with organic sprays as a preventative measure. Organic sprays are not as potent as their chemical counterparts and therefore must be sprayed regularly. It is much easier to prevent infections with organic sprays than to cure them. Group your roses together in the garden and only spray this area, leaving the rest of the garden alone.

Black SpotBlack Spot

This fungal disease affects many garden plants and is most noticeable on roses if the humidity is high and during prolonged wet weather, especially in autumn. Fuchsias and hydrangeas are also very susceptible.

The spores begin to grow on leaves that have been wet for about eight hours or more. It seems to start on the lower leaves, and then spreads upwards. The leaves fall off, often leaving the plant with no leaves at all.

Sprays that contain copper, like Copper Count or copper soap are used as a preventative spray and can also be used on vegetable crops. Always add a sticker to the spray mixture to make it more effective.

Powdery Mildew. Picture courtesy Sarah RubensPowdery Mildew

This very common garden disease can be found on many plants, spreading quickly. The white powder can be seen on the buds, stems and leaves. Its development, like black spot, is influenced by humidity, wetness, temperature and wind.

On roses planted close together it is most noticeable and also on roses grown in too much shade. Try to water your roses early, on hot sunny days so that the leaves can dry off quickly, and feed them regularly with a balanced rose food. Feeding too often with a high nitrogen feed, will result in soft growth, which is more susceptible. Water your roses regularly as stressed plants are more susceptible to disease.

Roberts Organic Fungicide will control most fungal diseases and is very effective for powdery mildew. It can also be used on edible crops. Neem oil is also very effective.
Picture courtesy Mark Polis M.D.

Red Spider

There are many different species of mites, which attack our plants, but it is the common red spider mite and the two-spotted mite that are the most common. They lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves, where it is relatively dry and are so minute that most people don't see them. Signs of infestation are, a fine white spiders web on the plant, a silvery look to the top of the leaf, or a severe yellowing or bronze colour to the leaves, leaves dropping off and leaf curl.

It is most important to spray as directed on the bottle to break their breeding cycle from eggs, larvae and then adults. You need to spray regularly to break this cycle. Red Spider Mite populations can explode during hot, dry weather. Try drenching the undersides of the leaves of your plants regularly in hot weather, to help prevent red spider. Formulations that contain oil can harm natural mite predators but Ludwig's Rose Spider Mite will have no adverse effect on natural predators.

Black Aphids. Picture courtesy Victoria BensleyAphids

There are many species of aphids that attack a vast number of garden plants, including flowers, vegetables, fruit trees, conifers and herbs; causing malformed or distorted growth. Infestations can occur at any time of the year but are more common in spring because aphids love young, sappy plant growth.

They must be controlled, as they spread viral diseases from plant to plant. These small pear-shaped insects come in various colours, like light and dark green, black, brown, pale yellow and grey and have many host plants. Roses are attacked by several species; but mainly the common green flower aphid.

Ants and aphids go hand in hand and the ants farm them for the honeydew they secrete. In return, the ants protect the aphids against their natural predators like praying mantis and ladybirds. Organic sprays containing only canola oil, with or without garlic, or only fatty acids only kills soft bodied insects and will safeguard beneficial predators. Try Neudosan, Vegol, or Margaret Roberts Organic Insecticide.

Go green with baking soda

People from all walks of life are tightening their belts this year and trying to save a buck wherever they can. Learning new ways of doing things around the garden and home, in order to save money, need not be a painful procedure, its rather fascinating and a quite a lot of fun too.  In fact, many of these practices are not new at all and were used effectively by families for generations, before our rushed modern lifestyles made it simply more convenient for us to buy ready to use products. Learning these old methods again will not only save you lots of cash but can also help you to eliminate dangerous chemical and toxins from your home and garden, so here’s to good health as well!

If you want to “go green” baking soda is your number one ingredient, besides vinegar, for your daily green household and garden kit. Baking soda has been used as an effective and inexpensive anti-fungal agent for generations; and many gardeners still truly believe that baking soda's anti-fungal properties are as good as store bought chemicals. Because it has a multitude of uses; from sweetening your tomatoes and battling powdery mildew, to simply removing odours from your refrigerator, or the smell of onion and garlic from your hands; once you have tried it in your garden and home, you will always use baking soda.

What is baking soda?

Baking Soda is also called Bicarbonate of Soda, and is the same ingredient. Baking powder however contains sodium bicarbonate, but it includes the acidifying agent, cream of tartar, and also a drying agent (usually starch).Make sure you don't use baking powder in your recipes.

The uses for baking soda listed below merely scratch the surface, and there are many more applications for this miraculous white powder, from a wide range of health and beauty products which can easily be made at home; like an inexpensive yet most effective deodorant, teeth whitener, facial and body scrub etc.; so do your own research to find all the ways you could use it.

Using Baking Soda in the Garden

Make non-toxic fungicide sprays for the garden

Baking soda, has long been touted as an effective and safe fungicide for the treatment of powdery mildew and several other fungal diseases. Recent studies confuse the efficiency of using this common household item, because they show that although the compound seems to prevent some fungal spore flare ups, it doesn’t actually kill existing spores. Because it can prevent fungal spore flare ups, published findings from across the globe show that baking soda did have a beneficial effect in reducing spores on plants.

So, is baking soda good for plants and is it really the miracle cure for those mildew beleaguered plants? Roses, baby marrow (zucchini), tomatoes, potatoes, pumpkin, melons, cabbage, cucumbers, squash, flowers and even fruit trees can be killed or damaged by blight or powdery mildew. Fungal diseases thrive in warm, moist and humid conditions; so when conditions are ideal for these diseases, it is wise to implement a weekly preventative spraying programme. Spray every 3 to 4 days if infection is noticed.  If not treated in time, baking soda may not halt fungal attacks on plants, but it will certainly help to slow the advance of the disease and prevent its outbreak to other plants. It is most effective on fruits and vegetables off the vine or stem, and regular applications during spring and summer can minimize diseases such as powdery mildew and other foliar diseases, so go for it!

The only concern for gardeners when using sodium bicarbonate is the first part of the compound, sodium. Sodium can burn leaves, roots and other plant parts. The safest concentration of baking soda is a 1 percent solution. The remainder of the solution can be water, but coverage on the leaves and stems is better if a small quantity of dishwashing liquid, horticultural oil or soap is added to the mixture. Foliar burn appears as brown or yellow patches at the end of the leaves and can be minimized by thorough dilution of the product. Keep in mind the solution is water soluble, so apply on a dry cloudy day for best results. In addition, it is important that a home mixture never be applied to any plant in the heat of a hot or brightly sunny day, as this can also lead to burning of the plant.

BEFORE USING ANY HOMEMADE MIX:

Just like you test beauty products on a small piece of skin first, and especially if you have sensitive skin, you should also test a home mix on a small portion of your garden plants first to make sure that it will not do any harm. Most plants are tough and hardly any spray affects them adversely, while others are more sensitive to sprays. Leave for 24 hours before spraying the entire plant. Also, avoid using any bleach-based soaps or detergents on plants since this can be harmful to them.

Make a non-toxic fungicide for powdery mildew and black spot fungus:

Mix 2 teaspoons (10ml) of baking soda into 2 litres of water. Agitate until all the baking soda is dissolved into the water. Add a 1/2 teaspoon of dishwashing to the spray mixture before applying. Spray on roses every ten days to prevent and treat black spot disease.

Baking soda can be used on many garden plants, but remember to always test the mixture on a few leaves first to check for symptoms of burning.

Baking soda kills moss

Baking Soda isn’t harmful to the rest of your lawn and plants. It will cause lawn moss to turn brown and die within a week. Sprinkle baking soda directly on the lawn moss, either right out of the container or out of a shaker. Make your own shaker by making small holes directly into the baking soda box.

Slugs

Get rid of slugs by lightly pouring baking soda on them.

Sweeten your tomatoes

To sweeten your tomatoes and to discourage pests, sprinkle baking soda lightly on the soil around the plants and water it in. The lower the acid level is in the soil, the sweeter your tomatoes will be.

For flowers which enjoy an alkaline soil 

Flowers which enjoy an alkaline soil like pink hydrangeas, geraniums and begonias produce magnificent blooms if watered with a weak solution of baking soda and water (about 4 tablespoons to 10 litres of water)

Check the pH of your soil

Check the pH of your soil before you plant your garden. Put a scoop of soil in a small container and wet it with some distilled water and then sprinkle baking soda on top of it. If the baking soda bubbles, you have acidic soil with a pH level that is probably lower than 5.

Ants

Stop ants at the source by adding baking soda to ant hill’s when they are damp. Half hour later, add a small amount of vinegar to the hill.

Cabbage worms

Kill cabbage worms, which also attack broccoli and kale, by combining equal quantities of flour and baking soda together and dusting it onto the plants. To easily dust plants with dry ingredients, fill a tightly woven cloth or ladies stocking with the mixture and tie before gently shaking the ingredients directly onto the plant. The worms will usually die within a day or so after munching the leaves. Repeat as needed.

Garden Seeds

Keep your precious garden seeds dry by putting some baking soda in an envelope and placing it in your seed box.

Weeds

Discourage weeds by pouring or sweeping baking soda in a thick layer into cracks on a sidewalk or patio. The baking soda should kill any small weeds already sprouted and prevent new ones from coming up.

Smelly compost heaps

To prevent a compost heap from becoming smelly, use baking soda right out of the box on the compost pile. This helps prevent acidity from building up.

Easily remove pesky price tags

Easily remove pesky price tags or manufactures labels from garden pots and garden decorations by mixing 1/3 cup baking soda and 2/3 cup of vegetable oil. Brush onto label and wait for a couple of minutes, before peeling or gently scraping it off.

Clean greasy braai grills

Clean greasy braai grills by using a brush to apply baking soda mixed with a little water to form a paste. Allow it to set for about 15 minutes, before wiping clean, any remaining residue will burn away if the grill is placed on top of an open flame for a few minutes, before adding food.

Clean bird baths and clay pots

Clean bird baths and clay pots without toxic chemicals. Dust the surface with baking soda and use a brush or damp cloth to get rid of dirt and then rinse with water.

Clean your hands

After a day in the garden by scrubbing your wet hands with baking soda.

Using Baking Soda in the Home

Get rid of moss and fungal stains

Completely get rid of moss and fungal stains in the home by mixing baking soda and vinegar together to make a thick scrubbing paste. This paste is especially great to clean showers and bathrooms.

Dry-clean the dog

Dry-clean the dog by rubbing baking soda into the fur, then combing it out. This cleans and deodorizes when there's no time for a bath.

Deodorize pet bedding

Deodorize pet bedding by sprinkling baking soda over surface (only if dry). Let sit for 15 minutes, then vacuum or shake out thoroughly.

Clean small animal cages

Clean small animal cages by wiping all surfaces with baking soda sprinkled on a damp sponge. Rinse and dry.

Deodorize a mattress

Deodorize a mattress after an accident by blotting the wet mattress with towel. Then sprinkle baking soda on damp part. Allow to dry, then vacuum.

Extinguish stove fires

Turn off burner or broiler and toss handfuls of baking soda on the flames.

Soak dried beans

Soak dried beans in a baking soda solution to make them more digestible.

Remove difficult laundry stains

Remove difficult laundry stains by adding ¼ to ½ cup of baking soda, together with the amount of detergent you would usually use for a single load of washing.  It will greatly boost your detergents cleaning and whitening power, and is especially good for rings around collars armpit stains.

Extend the life of cut flowers

Extend the life of your cut flowers by adding a pinch of baking soda to the water.

Sanitize cutting boards

Sanitize your cutting boards by smearing baking soda across the entire surface of the cutting board and then dousing it with vinegar. Once the foam subsides, rinse it off with hot water.

Make a homemade scouring powder

Make a homemade scouring powder for cleaning surfaces, pots, pans etc. by mixing the following ingredients together and storing them in an airtight container:  1 cup baking soda, 1 cup borax and 1 cup salt.

Remove the odour of garlic or onions from your hands

Remove the odour of garlic or onions from your hands by rubbing them with a sprinkling of baking soda and a little water to make a paste, scrub before rinsing clean.

Clean fruits and vegetables

Clean fruits and vegetables by adding 1 tablespoon of baking soda and a drop of dish soap to two litres of water.  Soak for a couple of minutes before rinsing with clean water.

Clean mineral deposits from appliances

Clean mineral deposits from kettles, teapots and coffee pots by boiling 4 tablespoons of baking soda in them for several minutes before rinsing thoroughly.

Remove odours from your refrigerator

Remove odours from your refrigerator by leaving a small open container filled with baking soda inside. For fresh crisper drawers, sprinkle baking soda on the bottom and cover with a paper towel before packing your vegetables as usual.  Add fresh powder every 2 months or so, or after cleaning.

Clean your microwave

Clean your microwave with a little baking soda and warm water.

Buy baking soda in bulk for extra savings, and don’t throw away expired baking soda. It may not be good for baking, but will still be fine for household and garden use.

I hope you enjoyed these baking soda tips and trust that they will come in handy; saving you a ton of money, and well as going a long way to helping you live a much greener life.

Red and White Poinsettia. Image by Michael Bubmann from PixabayReal trees and well-known ‘Christmas’ flowers make beautiful decorations, and if you purchase your favourite ones and decorate them, they make wonderful inexpensive gifts that will just keep on giving. Many of the classics like hydrangeas are planted into the garden after the festive season, and you family and friends will thank you next season when cutting them for the vase.

Tips for growing great indoor pot plants

If you want to place your Christmas tree or flowering pot plant into another container for decorating indoors, do not repot them as this could disturb the roots and result in flower or leaf drop. Rather leave the plants in their pots or nursery bags, place them into the container and fill in the space with soil, bark or other materials.

To ensure potted plants grow well indoors, selecting the right lighting for each plant is vital. If your lighting is bad indoors, investing in some grow lamps would allow you to grow plants you never could have considered before.

Poinsettia Christmas Tree. Image by Michelle Maria from PixabayCorrect watering for each plant is also most important as most pot plants are killed by incorrect watering. Make sure you know how much water each one requires, and to take the guesswork out of watering, invest in a water meter.  Feeding with a liquid pot plant food as recommended will keep your plants looking at their best.

Many indoor pot plants originate from humid tropical and subtropical regions and grow much better indoors when humidity is higher. Investing in a small room humidifier for your plant collection could make a huge difference to the health of many indoor pot plants.

Increasing humidity can be as simple as placing the pot on a drip tray filled with gravel and water. The gravel lifts the pot above the water line to prevent root rot, and as the water in the tray slowly evaporates it creates humidity around the leaves of the plant. Grouping several potted plants together like this will even create a small microclimate.  Misting down the leaves occasionally with a fine spray of tepid water also helps with humidity and will also keep your plants clean.

Choose a living tree this festive season

Living Christmas trees add a whole new ambiance to a room, and if you purchase and decorate your favourite small ones to gift to friends and family, they will be delighted to know that their little tree can be planted out later into the garden or in a pot which can be moved out onto the patio and brought indoors next season.

Artificial Christmas trees are most definitely not environmentally friendly as they cannot be recycled in any way and do not biodegrade over time. These synthetic trees are also a fire hazard, and because they are often imported, they have a high carbon footprint.

There is a lovely selection of both exotic and indigenous trees that are popular to use as Christmas Trees in South Africa, so get creative and pot a living tree to decorate.

Some of the options below are for more traditional looking Christmas trees and others are daring and different.  

Spekboom (Portulacaria )Spekboom, Porkbush, iNtelezi, isiDondwane, iGqwanitsha, Tshilepwete (Portulacaria afra)

A daring indigenous and water-wise option is our world famous spekboom. It has a growing reputation for saving the planet and recent research has dubbed it an "excellent carbon sponge" because of its ability to absorb more free carbon from the atmosphere than most other plants. Studies have shown that when planted in large plantations this amazing succulent can store more than four tons of carbon per hectare, creating what is called a "carbon sink", making it one of the best plants to grow in order to combat warming of the earth's atmosphere. In fact, this beautiful yet unassuming succulent has become so famous it even has its own Facebook page!

For an effect that’s sure to draw attention pop a potted spekboom into a hessian bag or rustic pot and decorate with baubles, angel hair and fairy lights.  After Christmas your little tree can be kept indoors or planted in the garden or a pot.

To grow a spekboom indoors, place it in a warm, bright spot with indirect sunlight, even full morning sun would be perfect. The spekboom can be transplanted into another pot without any adverse effects. Use a sandy, well-draining soil mix like a cactus or succulent blend, and water only when the soil is completely dry, as overwatering can lead to root rot.

Members can click here to read more about growing Spekboom

Afrocarpus henkeliiYellowwoods (Afrocarpus)

For a more traditional look try yellowwoods, they  make luscious Christmas trees and grow well in large pots which can be moved outdoors until next season. Overseas our majestic yellowwoods are grown as indoor pot plants for the elegance and texture they bring to any indoor space with their lush, glossy green foliage and great form.

Because Yellowwoods are slow growers, they are perfect for smaller spaces, lending an attractive vertical element without overwhelming their surroundings. Over time, these lovely trees will develop their own unique character and their slow growth and sturdy branches make them a favourite for bonsai enthusiasts.

With a love for bright, filtered light, and even some direct sunlight, the Yellowwood is ideal for a sunny indoor area, balcony or patio that needs a touch of green. However, too much direct unfiltered sunlight through glass windows can cause browning on the leaf edges or tips.  If your tree is not receiving too much sun, the cause is probably due to inconsistent watering.

Allow the soil to almost dry out completely, but then water immediately. Never leave the soil dry for long periods of time. Yellowing leaves are often the result of overwatering. Check the soil moisture before watering, and for large trees investing in a water meter would be a great help.

Leaf drop is often a sign of stress, either from under-watering, sudden temperature changes, or low humidity. Keep the plant away from cool drafts and sudden temperature shifts.

Outeniqua Yellowwood, Outeniekwageelhout, umkhoba, umgeya, mogôbagôba, umsonti (Afrocarpus falcatus)

The Outeniqua Yellowwood is majestic and fast-growing, and with its elegant shape it’s certainly a tree for all seasons and all gardens. It is an excellent container plant and a popular indoor Christmas tree.

Henkel's Yellowwood, Henkel-se-Geelhout, Umsonti (Afrocarpus henkelii)

Henkel's Yellowwood is also a popular Christmas tree and is grown ornamentally in gardens for its strikingly neat conical shape and its elegant, drooping foliage.

Members can click here to read more about growing Yellowwoods

Fever Tree Picture courtesy Random Harvest NurseryFever Tree, Koorsboom, mooka-kwena , umHlosinga , nkelenga , munzhelenga (Vachellia xanthophloea)

If you want to be daring and different, decorate a fever tree. The beautiful form of this striking indigenous tree with its unusual sulphur-yellow bark makes it easily identifiable, and if you can find reasonably established trees with a good shape this tree makes a magical Christmas tree with its small feathery green leaflets and small, straight white thorns.

To keep you fever tree healthy indoors during the festive season, place it in a warm, bright spot with indirect sunlight, even full morning sun would be perfect. Water only when the soil is completely dry, as overwatering can lead to root rot, but avoid leaving the soil dry for too long.

If you have a large garden, plant your tree out in January, you won’t regret it. The fever tree is a medium to large growing tree, varying in height and spread, depending on where it is grown, and under optimal conditions it can reach 10 to 15m tall with a 10m spread. It loses its leaves in winter and makes a beautiful silhouette during the winter months. Sweetly-scented bright yellow flower balls appear from September to November, followed by flat, bean-like brown pods in late summer.

Members can click here to find out more about growing the Fever Tree

Mountain Cedar, Bergsipres (Widdringtonia nodiflora)

Our indigenous mountain cedar is closest in appearance to a traditional Christmas tree in its juvenile stage with its slender and upright form, and its needle-like leaves are similar to most conifers. In the wild it is a small tree or bushy shrub with a columnar crown, attaining a height of 5 to7m. It makes a good ornamental tree, and a superb potted plant which can be moved indoors every season. When it becomes too big for the pot, plant it in your garden.

Click here to see Google Images of the Mountain Cedar

The tree grows well in a cool or temperate climate with good rainfall and is relatively frost resistant. As it eventually matures, you can actually prune some of the lower branches during the festive period to be used as a Christmas tree.

With a love for bright, filtered light, and even some direct sunlight, the mountain cedar is ideal for a sunny indoor area, balcony or patio that needs a touch of green. However, too much direct unfiltered sunlight through glass windows can cause browning of the foliage. Allow the soil to dry out before watering, but then water immediately. Never leave the soil dry for long periods of time.

Cupressus macrocarpa 'Wilma' Cyprus (Cupressus)

You might recognize both Cupressus ‘Gold Crest’ and ‘Wilma’ as the potted evergreens that show up in many garden centres and retail stores before Christmas for their festive looks. Their lovely shape and the fresh fragrance of their bright foliage makes them perfect  to decorate as a focal point in the home, and smaller specimens make striking table decorations and gifts.

To keep them happy indoors for the month, place in a bright, well-lit position. Don't put them in a north facing window with direct sun for most of the day, or you risk burning the foliage. Keep the trees well away from draughts and air conditioners, and ensure there is sufficient humidity by mist spraying the foliage lightly with water every couple of days, or placing a small humidifier nearby. In hot weather, a thorough weekly watering should suffice. Allow the soil to dry before watering again, but ensure that it is never dry for too long.

If you purchased one to decorate and don’t know what to do with it after Christmas, you could consider planting it in the garden or in a pot on the patio.

Members can click here to read more about growing ‘Gold Crest’ and ‘Wilma’

Festive Flowers and Foliage

Hydrangea mixed colours. Image by Adriana Knop from PixabayHydrangeas

One of the most beloved of the Christmas flowers is the Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) affectionately called the “Christmas Rose” because that’s when it’s at its most beautiful in our gardens and so abundant we can pick the stems freely for indoor decorations.

 Its large pom-pom shaped balls of flowers come in an amazing range of colours. On the older varieties the blossoms can be white, or shades of pink, blue, or purple, depending on a pH-dependent mobilization and uptake of aluminium from the soil into the plants. Newer cultivars have stable colours ranging from cool blues and purples, pinks, sultry rose and shimmering reds, to crisp white varieties which are often delightfully tinged with green or pink.

These hydrangeas are also grown for their luxuriant foliage and are known as “Bigleaf Hydrangeas”. There are two beautiful forms, the “mophead hydrangea”, and the “lacecap hydrangea”. Lacecaps are identical to mopheads in every way except for the shape of their blooms which are more flattened.

Potted mopheads and lacecaps are popular for indoor decorations and are also used outdoors to liven-up patios and entrances during the festive season. They are also great to give as flowering gifts which can be transplanted into the garden in January.

Here are a few tips to keep your potted hydrangea thriving indoors.  Firstly ensure that they never dry out completely and wilt from lack of water. They are generally potted into soil amended with a very light mixture of peat and coir, which can dry out rapidly, so ensure that the soil remains evenly moist but not continually soggy either. If a plant does start to wilt, rehydrate it immediately by immersing the entire pot in water for a couple of hours.

Ensure that the light is bright and a little sunlight will not harm, but too much direct sunlight could scorch the leaves. Feeding with a liquid flowering pot plant food as recommended will keep your plant looking its best. Once the flowers fade, prune them off and plant into larger pots or garden beds in a semi-shaded area.

Members can click here to read more about growing Hydrangeas

Boston FernBoston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)

The tropical Boston fern is one of the most popular indoor ferns in the world with its long, drooping fronds of plain or frilly bright green leaves. Gardeners love to adorn their decks and patios with them during the warm summer months, and in frosty regions the plants are brought indoors to overwinter. Boston ferns are a wonderful addition to the home, adding an elegant charm and classic beauty unlike any other houseplant. Adding a lot of green and also white to your festive displays will just make all the other colours ‘pop’.

Outdoors they thrive in sheltered, semi-shaded areas of the garden, and indoors they like a warm (not hot) position with good light but no direct sunshine. Humidity is essential for these tropical beauties, 50% is ideal, which the average home does not provide. Misting the leaves down regularly with tepid water will help a lot, as would a room humidifier. Keep your fern well away draughts, air conditioners and heaters.  

Boston Ferns must receive an adequate amount of water to flourish, and rainwater or filtered water is best. In summer, keep the soil evenly moist but not saturated, never allowing the soil to dry out totally. In winter, allow the surface of the soil to become a little dry before watering, and when the new fronds appear in spring, start watering more often. During spring, summer and autumn feed your fern every two weeks with a water soluble fertiliser for foliage plants, but dilute it to half the recommended strength.

Members can click here to read more about growing the Boston Fern

Flaming KatyFlaming Katy, Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)

Kalanchoes are tropical flowering succulents, and all are popular plants for the garden, but the little ones, appropriately called “Flaming Katy” have become one of the most popular flowering succulents in South Africa and the world. In 1971 flaming Katy was one of the first plants to be sent into space on a resupply to the Soviet Salyut 1 space station – quite a feat for such a little plant!

Their popularity never seems to wane, and just like Poinsettias, Flaming Katy is forced to bloom all year round by the flower industry.  People love to use them for instant colour, both indoors and indoors, as they are inexpensive and can be discarded once they’ve finished blooming. Frugal gardeners transplant them into the garden or outdoor pots, knowing that if cared for correctly, they will return and flower again every winter and spring.

Flaming Katy hybrids produce large, scalloped, emerald green leaves, but remain compact and bushy, growing between 30 and 45cm tall. They bloom for at least eight weeks and are available in a good array of colours and fit effortlessly into various styles of interior design, from classic to modern. Today a wonderful selection is available and their profusion of single or double blooms come in many shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, white, and cream, making these little gems cheerful and inexpensive gifts. They are adorable potted together in clumps, or mixed with other water-wise plants and succulents.

Indoors it is very easy to grow and does best in bright filtered light. To promote flowering, potted specimens, as well as those growing in beds, can be fed two to three times during the growing season with a liquid or foliar fertiliser for flowers. Like all succulents, flaming Katy does not need to be watered a lot. Water thoroughly when the soil in the pot or garden bed is totally dry, and do not leave pots sitting in a drip tray full of water, or root rot will occur.

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Polka Dot Plant Mixed ColoursPolka Dot Plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya)

Extremely popular as a pot plant in the 80’s, the polka dot plant fell out of fashion for a while, but as with most plants it made a comeback, becoming all the rage among avid plant collectors on social media. Their brightly spotted leaves stand out in the crowd and new garden cultivars are very compact and bushy, growing to a height of about 20cm and spreading 15cm, but what they may lack in stature they sure make up for in colour. There are several spotted or mottled varieties available in shades of blush, pink, rose, red, and white, and in summer the bushes may produce tiny, solitary pink or purple flowers at the nodes.

Polka dot plants grow just as easily in bright light indoors as they do outdoors. In subtropical regions the plant is a spreading perennial, which may become quite rampant.  In cold and frosty regions it is grown outdoors as a summer annual, and is planted out once all danger of frost is over.

In the garden, plant in a protected spot where they will receive filtered bright light, but not too much direct sunlight which can burn the leaves. Indoors, a warm windowsill that gets a couple of hours of bright indirect light a day is ideal for keeping the colours vibrant. Direct sunlight can burn the leaves, but on the other hand in too little light the colours may disappear altogether, so move your pots around until you find the perfect place.  Indoor temperatures around 18 to 20°C are ideal. Avoid cold drafts and direct airflow from fans or heaters.

Polka dot plants adapt to most fertile soils with good drainage, and once established will grow fairly quickly and easily as long as they are given sufficient water. Water the plants regularly in hot weather; try to keep the plant slightly moist but not soggy. Average household humidity is acceptable, but your plant will thrive with higher humidity levels indoors, so boost humidity with frequent misting. Feed every month throughout the summer growing season with a general purpose liquid fertiliser, diluted to half the recommended strength. The plants tend to get leggy, so cut or pinch back the top two leaves on the stems regularly, and to extend the growing season it's best to also clip the flowers off.

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PoinsettiaPoinsettias, Karlienblom (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

Poinsettias are arguably the most iconic plant of the holiday season, and renowned for their bright red and green foliage that mimics the colours of Christmas. They also come in a variety of other colours, including bright pink and creamy white. In South Africa, they remain a popular choice for decorating homes, offices, and even outdoor spaces during the holidays, and are also a great gift idea.

When selecting your potted poinsettia, make sure that the plant is full with a balanced shape and has dark green leaves right down to the soil line. To check its maturity look at the true little yellow flowers located at the base of the coloured bracts; if the flowers are green or red-tipped and fresh looking the bloom will “hold” longer than if yellow pollen is covering the flowers. Be careful when transporting poinsettias from the shop to your home because the branches break easily.

they thrive in warm, bright light but no direct sun, and ensure that the spot you have chosen is not too hot because high temperatures will shorten the life of the bracts. Poinsettias also don’t like drafts, so keep them away from fans and air conditioners.

The most common mistake is to overwater them indoors which results in the leaves turning yellow and dropping. Allow the soil to dry out between watering, but examine the soil every day because under watering will cause the plant to wilt, and the lower leaves will drop. Always water enough to soak the soil to the bottom of the pot but it is very important to discard the excess water from the drip tray or your plant will rot. If you keep your plant for several months indoors, apply a soluble high potassium houseplant fertiliser once a month. In warm frost free regions poinsettias can be planted into the garden once the festive season is over.

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Euphorbia white and blush Picture courtesy Ball StraathofEuphorbia, Garden Spurge (Euphorbia hypericifolia)

Euphorbias make great houseplants if you can provide good light, and their popularity is increasing. For Christmas they bring a dainty soft texture to your plantings and décor. Combine them in containers with poinsettias to create the illusion of red poinsettias nesting in a bed of snow!

They are also popular with florists as filler plants and are perfect for Christmas arrangements. Before using the cut flowers, dip the cut stems into boiling water, or hold over a flame for a few seconds, before plunging into cold water. This will help prevent sap bleed.

Euphorbia resembles the annual plant called “baby's breath” (Gypsophila paniculata), and can be used in the garden in much the same way, and these wispy plants with their abundance of frothy drifts of small white flowers, interspersed amongst their olive green leaves, belie their delicate looks with their hardy temperaments.

Because of the popularity of this plant, it seems exciting new introductions are being brought out every year, all of which have a low, mounding and spreading growth habit.  Euphorbia 'Euphoric White' and 'Glitz' are ideal for containers, hanging baskets and borders.  'Marginata' grows 90cm tall and has white on green foliage. 'Diamond Frost' has slender green leaves and white flowers, and 'Diamond Fizz’ produces copious floral bracts, creating the illusion of double flowers. 'Breathless' produces stocky plants covered in a mist of white or pink tinged flowers, and 'Breathless Blush' is the first dark-foliaged euphorbia with red-flushed leaves and pink-flushed flowers. 'Breathless White' is a sturdy plant and shows off masses of crystal white blooms.

These low maintenance and drought tolerant plants are sensitive to overwatering and are sold in moderately fertile but sharply drained soils. Water regularly until the plant is acclimatised to its new home, but after that, allow the plant to dry out before watering again.

In mild winter climates they can be planted out into the garden after your Christmas party where they will bloom almost all year-round in full sun or light shade. In cold, frosty regions they are grown as a summer annuals.

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Anthurium Red Flamingo Flower (Anthurium Andreanum)

Instead of poinsettias try flamingo flowers. They were incredibly popular in the 70’s because they enabled one to emulate the classic holiday colours of green and red with a tropical flair. In recent years they made another impressive comeback, shooting to the top of most popular houseplant lists. 

Characterized by their deep green foliage and colourful spathes, modern flamingo flowers are available in many sizzling colours like bright red, pink, purple, orange, and white. And, in spite of their exotic appearance they are not hard to care for as long as you understand their needs. A well-cared for plant, whether it is in your garden or home, will reward you with wonderful, long lasting flowers for many years, and just a single plant will give a room a more tropical feel.

Indoors they require consistently warm temperatures, and an area free of draughts, and whether you are growing flamingo flowers indoors or outdoors, it is prudent to bear in mind that they grow best in bright, indirect light and cannot tolerate much direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves.

Abundant water isn’t an issue for these rain forest specimens, but in their jungle habitat they occur naturally in the tree canopy, so although their environment may be damp or wet for six to nine months of the year, the drainage is perfect and they are never found standing in water. To match their natural habitat, the roots must be able to ‘breathe’ and for this reason, bought specimens are already potted in soil with perfect drainage. No matter where your flamingo flowers are growing, water only when the soil is dry to the touch, but when you do water, water deeply, and if they are in pots, ensure that the water drips through the bottom of the pot, but never leave it standing in the water.

Flamingo flowers revel in the high humidity found in tropical jungles, where levels often approach 100 percent. The humidity in most homes does not come anywhere near this, so you will have to mist the plant daily with tepid water in a spray bottle to try to simulate this type of microclimate. If time is limited, invest in a room humidifier, they are healthy and always come in handy anyway.

Fertilise with care as too much fertiliser will produce lush foliage but no flowers, so feed your flamingo flower sparingly once a month, using a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants, but mix the solution at 20 percent of the manufacturer’s recommendation. 

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Asplenium nidus Image by Brian Clark from PixabayBird’s Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus)

Bird’s nest ferns are attractive, whimsical and enchanting, and in the warm subtropical regions of South Africa this fern is fantastic to use in the garden, but in cold and frosty regions they are prized indoor plants. In their natural environment birds nest ferns thrive in warm, moist, humid forests growing under the forest canopy where they are sheltered from the harsh sun, so if you are growing these ferns at home, be it indoors or outdoors, the best results are achieved if you can try to mimic the tropical conditions they love. An added bonus is that the birds nest fern is highly efficient at converting Carbon dioxide (CO2) into oxygen, and cleaning the air.

Indoors, bird’s nest ferns need high humidity levels and will take medium to lower light conditions. However, they don’t like it too cold, so ensure that the temperature indoors never drops below 10°C. If provision is taken for a little extra humidity, they are also perfectly happy if placed on a table top or shelf in any living area or office. In autumn, gradually start to water less, and during winter you may only need to water every couple of weeks. However, if they’re in a room which gets very warm because of heaters etc. be fastidious about checking the soil as it will dry out quicker.

Water is like lifeblood to these ferns, and they need a fair amount of it, but be careful not to overwater your plants as they don’t do well in soggy soil. Try to water so the growing medium is evenly moist, or whenever the top 2.5cm of soil is dry. In nature water and debris collects in the crowns of these ferns, but when growing them at home, its best to avoid watering directly into the centre of the plant, as too much water in the crown can encourage mould and rot in the dense nest.

To get them to grow luxuriantly with healthy, shiny leaves, spray the plants regularly with a fine mist of water, or rainwater. Do not use leaf shine products on your bird’s nest ferns, as they’re very sensitive to chemicals. If your plant is looking a little dusty, wash it off with tepid water. Because bird’s nest ferns are epiphytic plants they are wonderful to mount on an attractive piece of driftwood, bark, or cork. To keep their roots moist, mounted specimens will need frequent misting, and an occasional a good soaking in a basin of water.

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AmaryllisAmaryllis

Amaryllis bulbs normally bloom in the spring, but they are cultivated as indoor plants and tricked into blooming in time for Christmas. Amaryllis must be one of the easiest bulbs to grow, and they remain popular for their festive oversized flowers which demand attention as they stand proudly facing outwards, atop tall thick stems. Amaryllis comes in fabulous shades of pink and magenta to salmon, orange, red, and white.

Varieties include single and double flowers, and those with stripes or contrasting edges. New hybrids can produce two flowering stems and a single stem will produce 4 huge flowers up to 22cm. The latest Sonatini hybrids are true miniatures with blooms between 6 and 12cm across.  Although this may not sound small, for Amaryllis flowers it is, and  what these miniatures lack in stature they more than make up for in generosity, with each bulb giving as many as 3 flower spikes, crowned with up to 6 delightful blooms each!

Indoors they will require very good, bright light, and although they don’t need sun, a little sunlight won’t harm them either.  To prevent root rot, water sparingly until the flower stem appears, but when it starts to grow, increase the amount of water you give, and check your plants regularly, because flowering plants are thirsty.

Like hyacinths, amaryllis bulbs can be grown on water. Place the bulbs on top of pebbles or marbles in a glass container and fill with water until just beneath the bulb, and the roots will grow into the water. Amaryllis bulbs grown this way should be discarded once they have finished blooming.

Good amaryllis care will ensure that you enjoy beautiful blooms year after year.

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Begonia 'elatior' Image by Jürgen Köditz from PixabayBegonia ‘Elatior’

Potted Begonia ‘Elatior’ hybrids are sold in full bloom throughout the year and look amazing as a coffee table centrepiece, or clustered together with tropical-looking leafy plants. They are perfect to give as gifts and will brighten up rooms and gardens during the festive season. 

Elatior begonias are native to, and thrive in tropical and subtropical climates where they are treated as perennials that flower repeatedly. Outside the tropics tuberous begonias are best treated as indoor pot plants or as summer annuals which are discarded when flowering has finished.

The compact plants will grow around 30 to 40cm tall, producing fleshy, heart-shaped, green leaves, above which the spectacular richly coloured clusters of flowers appear. The flowers can be single or double and come in a wide range of colours from brilliant reds and oranges through to the gentler shades of yellow, pink, and white.

When selecting Elatior begonias to buy, choose a vigorous and healthy looking plant that is compact and not too tall, as this is a sign of excessively rapid growth. Also check the plant for any signs of powdery mildew on the leaves before buying.

Remember, these plants are not fans of the extremes, and they thrive in a comfort zone between 15 to 26°C outdoors and indoors, so if you’re comfortable in your home your begonia will also be happy. They do best in medium to bright light indoors, and do not enjoy direct sunlight, which makes them perfect for many indoor spaces. Try to avoid drying air-conditioning if you can, as this dries the air. Watering correctly is most important, and the soil should remain moist, but not soggy.  Allow the top 2 to 3cm of soil to dry out before watering again. Potted plants growing indoors should be watered from below in order to keep the foliage dry.

Although the plants do not like to stand in draughts, they do enjoy good air circulation around their leaves. Good ventilation and correct watering helps to prevent powdery mildew, leaf spot and the possibility of fungal diseases on the flowers. if provision is taken for a little extra humidity Fertilise every week or two in summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser for flowering plants, diluted at half the recommended strength.

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Peace Lilly Peace Lily, Spathe Flower (Spathiphyllum wallisii)

The dark-green, glossy leaves of peace lilies are strongly veined and arch away from the plant's base, making it an attractive foliage plant even when it’s not in bloom, but when in bloom, it is truly lovely. What we call its flowers are actually pale green spathes, which turn white as they open.

Peace lilies in full bloom are sold in garden centres virtually all year round because growers use a chemical known as gibberellic acid to induce the plants to bloom, regardless of the season. A number of cultivars, are commercially available, all of which are essentially quite similar. Apart from one peace lily which produces a green flower and another that has variegated leaves, they all produce large green leaves and white flowers. Some have smaller leaves and an abundance of small flowers, while others produce large, glossier leaves and fewer, but much larger flowers.

Peace lilies are used extensively as potted plants in homes, shopping malls and offices, and are renowned for improving air quality indoors. They are also sold by florists and make excellent gifts. In frost free regions of the country they can be planted out into the garden or into pots. Indoors, they are a decorators dream because their lush green foliage compliments most styles, adding freshness to almost any spot in the home, and the striking white flowers will liven up any colour scheme.

Of all the indoor flowering plants, peace lilies are one of the easiest to care for, because they tolerate average indoor conditions better than many house plants. Although they are known to survive in darker spots in the home and do not like direct sunlight, they will bloom better if given bright, filtered light. Their fertiliser requirements are quite low, but in order to encourage blooms they must be fed with weakened solutions of liquid fertiliser every four to six weeks in summer. Although peace lilies growing in the wild love water, when potted they prefer an evenly moist soil which drains well, and which is never allowed to dry out completely. These tropical plants love humidity, so if you live in a dry climate, creating a humid environment is beneficial to the plant.

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Gerbera Mixed ColoursBarberton Daisy, Gerbera daisy, Rooigousblom (Gerbera jamesonii)

Barberton daisies are one of the most popular ornamental flowers in the world, and are grown for their stunning cut flowers on long stalks. In the garden flowering occurs in spring and autumn, but for the florist’s trade and pot plant industry these beauties are cultivated year round. They are available as singles or doubles, and come in an amazing array of colours, from red to orange, and pink, yellow and white. Barberton daisies are wonderful to brighten up your garden and home during the festive season and will be welcomed as gifts. 

Plant them outdoors in garden beds in full sun to semi-shade, or in pots. Indoors they thrive in warm, brightly lit locations. Place them near a sunny window where they will receive bright, indirect sunlight. Strong sunlight filtered through lace curtains is good – the brighter the light, the more blooms you'll get. However, too much intense, direct sunlight may burn your plant.

Fungus gnats and fungal diseases can be a problem with gerberas, so it is essential that they have good air circulation around their leaves. To avoid overwatering, wait until the top 2cm of soil is dry before watering again. The plants will produce more flowers if you deadhead and feed them regularly, and you can use any good fertiliser for flowering plants. Just be sure to follow the directions and don’t overfeed!

Hybrid gerberas are regarded as an upmarket cut flower that can be used as a single stem, or added to bouquets and arrangements to make a classy yet economical statement as they use up lots of space in the arrangement. Because the flowers tend to close up the night after they are cut, they should be cut a day or two before they are to be displayed. To make the flowers last longer you should dip the ends of the stems into boiling water after cutting, before plunging them in deep, cold water.

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Rose 'White Christmas'Roses

Well-cared for roses in the garden should have their second flush of summer blooms around Christmas time and can be picked for indoor decoration and perfume. Everyone loves roses and giving the gift of a rose bush is a long lasting and meaningful gift. Select your friends favourite colour, or roses with special names like ‘Forever Friends’,  ‘My Granny’, ‘Peace’ and many, many more.

Ensuring a supply of rose blooms for the garden and home decoration is the main incentive for gardeners to plant roses. For the best Christmas blooms, ensure that your roses are watered and fed regularly and keep a look-out for any signs of pests and diseases and spray accordingly with an organic product.

Blooms can be picked at any time of the day but many florists recommend cutting during the coolest time of the day.  The stage at which the bud is picked depends both on the variety and on personal preference. Most Hybrid Tea Roses open their long, slender buds relatively quickly and should be cut when the outer petals are just starting to unfold.

Carry a bucket half filled with water with you while pruning, and plunge the cut stems immediately into the water. The reasoning behind this is sound, as from the moment the cut is made air is sucked into the stem instead of water. Trapped air in stems and leaves causes wilting even after the stem is placed in water.  When you have finished picking, top up the bucket with water and place it in a dark, cool place to stand for a few hours, or overnight. When saturated the blooms are ready for arranging and they will stay fresh even whilst out of water when you are arranging them.

For an extended vase life, add a satchel of Chrysal, or 3 tablespoons of sugar and 1 tablespoon of vinegar, or 1 teaspoon of bleach to about 1 litre of water. Vinegar or bleach prevents formation of algae, making it unnecessary to replace the water every day. Sugar dissolves well in hot water and strengthens the petals and, to a limited extent, serves as a plant food.

If you receive a bunch of roses as a gift and they look like they are already starting to wilt prior to arranging them, use the recipe above to extend their vase life, but arrange them in hot water (about 40ºC). Hot water contains less air than cold water and as it is absorbed through the cut stem, it drives out any trapped air. If you have a glass vase and look carefully you will see the bubbles escaping from the cut.

Zantedeschia 'Red'Arum Lily, Kleinvarkoor, mohalalitoe, magapule, intebe, ihlukwe, ilabatheka-elimhlophe, ilabatheka-omhlophe (Zantedeschia)

Today a new generation of Zantedeschia hybrids have been bred, not only for their fashionable colours in all shades of pink, yellow, white, cream, apricot, peach, orange, purple (almost black) and red; but also for their sheer flower power.

These popular varieties are grown in the garden for the production of magnificent cut flowers for the vase, and they can also be planted into pots. They need at least 6 hours sun a day making them sheer magic in your summer entertainment areas on patios, decks, and beside the pool where they can be admired.

These colourful arum lilies are sold in full bloom and make stunning gifts for gardeners.  If you are using them for a short period indoors to decorate tables etc. ensure that they are placed in bright light, never allow the soil to dry out completely, and feed regularly with a liquid fertiliser.

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Fuchsia Fuchsia

Fuchsias remain one of the most popular shrubs to add interest, and a little tropical flair to cooler spots in the garden, or on the patio. In South Africa, the flowering season starts in earnest in mid-October and continues to March and April. The plants are generally in full bloom around Christmas time and are wonderful to plant as decorations in the garden and to give as gifts to friends and family. The drooping heads of these pretty two-toned ballerinas also create beautiful hanging basket displays for balconies and patios.

The enormous array of cultivars available at specialist fuchsia nurseries, in all sizes, shapes, and colour combinations, will leave you spoilt for choice, and you may just come home with many more than you planned on, but never fear, their versatility makes them perfect in many garden situations. With over 8000 recorded cultivars of fuchsia; from large, upright varieties, to those with a lovely trailing habit, there’s bound to be the perfect one for your garden or small balcony.

The flowers vary greatly in size, and can be single, double, or semi-double. They are usually bi-coloured with white, and lovely combinations and hues of pink, purple, lavender-blue, violet, coral, salmon-orange, crimson and scarlet. The flowers are followed by small, dark reddish-green, deep red, or deep purple berries, containing numerous, very small seeds. The fruit is edible and has been described as having a subtle grape flavour, spiced with black pepper.

Fuchsias are so versatile, mixing effortlessly with other semi-tropical plants and bedding plants for semi-shade. They add some magic to woodland and cottage gardens, but look just as good in a modern setting, perhaps combined with grasses and pebbles. They are also a favourite with bonsai growers, and reward with quick growth and lots of blooms.

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Agapanthus 'Little Diamond'Agapanthus, Agapant, Isicakathi, Ubani, Ugebeleweni, Leta-laphofu, Hlakahla  (Agapanthus)

Agapanthus should also be in full bloom in December, and plants in their nursery bags can be used for decorating both indoors and outdoors;  just cover the bags with some cloth or hessian, and when the festive season is over they can be planted into the garden. They also make great gifts at this time of the year. As cut flowers they make stunning arrangements for festive occasions as the flowers will last for up to 10 days in a vase. The darker coloured varieties tend to fade when brought indoors.

If you want long-flowering perennials which are water-wise, can take the heat, and grow in full sun or semi-shade, Agapanthus is your plant. In the garden they are most effective if planted in massed displays, and the larger growing cultivars are wonderful if planted towards the back of the perennial flower border. The dwarf varieties make excellent container plants, and beautiful ground covers, rockery and border plants.  All are most effective in stabilising the soil on banks, and will thrive on the banks of rivers and dams, and next to water features.

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