Welcome to Gardening in South Africa!

Picture courtesy Michael Coghlan see his flickr pageIf you yearn to grow your own fruit at home but think that your garden is too small, you’ll be delighted to know that at last South African gardeners have a good selection of dwarf fruit trees to choose from, and now double and triple grafted trees are appearing on the market.

I hope this article will inspire you to incorporate fruit trees into your garden landscape. All it takes is a bit of research on your part in order to identify the best fruit trees and varieties for your climatic region. This, together with the correct care and a little cooperation with mother-nature will ensure success, and when you take that first bite you will remember how fruit used to taste when you were a child - the way sun-ripened fruit really should taste – incredibly sweet and juicy!  And you don’t need an entire orchard to grow your own fruit, if space is limited, spoil yourself with just few of your favourite varieties.

Description & Interesting Facts:

Years ago, in countries like the USA, Europe and Australia, some innovative fruit growers developed methods to induce a single fruit tree rootstock to bear several different types of fruits, by using multiple grafts. Trees created by this technique were marketed as “Fruit Salad Trees” and they created quite a stir, enabling gardeners with small spaces to grow a variety of fruits in a single corner of the garden, trained as espalier, or planted in pots.  

The trick to creating a multiple fruit-bearing tree is to graft several compatible varieties or species onto the same rootstock. Most fruit trees are compatible within their species, but many are also compatible within their genus. That means that Prunus species such as plums, nectarines and peaches can be grafted onto the same tree, and why many types of citrus can be combined on a single rootstock.

Fruit Salad Trees can grow up to six different types of fruit, all on one tree. All the fruits will produce the same sized fruit as a standard tree, retaining their own characteristics like flavour, appearance and ripening times.

Dwarf, Double and Triple Grafted Fruit Trees

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Apple Dwarf ‘Early Red’

The Dwarf Early Red Apple is an exciting new dwarf suitable for small gardens, container planting, or a small orchard. The tree can grow to a height of 3.5m and has beautiful pink and white blossoms in late September, and the fruit ripens from late February to early March. Apple trees are not self-fertile, requiring a second variety to cross-pollinate them and enable fruit production. Golden Delicious or Granny Smith both make good pollinators.

Apple Dwarf ‘Golden Delicious’

The Dwarf Golden Delicious is a popular variety producing sweet, crisp and golden-coloured apples. As a dwarf variety, this tree grows to a maximum of 3m, making it ideal for small gardens or container planting. It has a moderate growth rate and usually starts bearing fruit one year after planting. The fruit has a sweet, mild flavour with a hint of honey, perfect for fresh eating, baking, and sauces. They start flowering around early October and ready to harvest late February, early March. Apple trees are not self-fertile requiring a second variety to cross pollinate. Granny Smith or Early Red cross-pollinate Golden Delicious.

Apple Dwarf ‘Granny Smith’

Dwarf Granny Smith apple trees have been grafted onto dwarf M9 rootstock which is very productive, and trees will bear fruit 1 year after planting. Due to the rootstock used, the tree can grow up to 3m tall with a width of 1m. This makes it an ideal tree for any garden. The white blossoms appear in late September, and the fruit will ripen in late summer, February/March. Dwarf Granny Smith is great to grow in pots, and because the trees can be planted close together, they make an ideal apple tree hedge. They can even be espaliered against a wall or fence. These apple trees are self-fertile but will perform better with a different variety.

Cherry Dwarf ‘Lapins’

Lapins Cherry trees originated in British Columbia, Canada and are loved for their gorgeous mahogany red skin and delicious sweet flavour. The white blossoms appear in mid-September, and the fruit ripens in November. These trees have been grafted onto dwarf MXM14 rootstock, which is very productive. Due to the rootstock used, the tree can grow up to 3m high with a width of 2m, making Dwarf Lapins an ideal tree for home gardens and urban orchards. The trees are self-fertile and do not need another variety for cross-pollination.

Kumquat Dwarf ‘Meiwa’

The Meiwa Kumquat is a small, round citrus fruit. The thin and edible skin adds a slight chewiness, and it’s surprisingly sweet and somewhat syrupy, complementing the fruit’s tangy flesh. It can be enjoyed fresh, eaten whole, or used in various culinary applications, such as marmalades, salads, and desserts. This tree grows to a height of between 1.5 and 2m, growing well in garden beds or pots. Kumquats typically flower in the summer and their fruit ripens from late summer and autumn, or from winter to early spring, depending on the specific climate and tree. The long-lasting fruit can hang on the tree for months, providing a decorative and edible display throughout the cooler season. 

Orange Dwarf Calamondin

The Calamondin Orange has gained popularity across the world for its versatility and because it is easy to grow and is hardier too cold than any other citrus. The tree is a cross between a kumquat and a mandarin orange and the small orange fruit resembles a small tangerine. The peel is thin, yellow to orange and easily separable. The fruit has a very sweet smell but a slightly sour taste, whereas the skin is surprisingly sweet. This dwarf orange tree can grow to a height of between 1.5 and 2m tall and the plant performs very well as a patio plant or even trimmed as a hedge. Calamondins can flower and fruit year-round making them magnificent ornamentals; and their showy orange fruits are eaten fresh or used in sweet and savoury dishes.

Mandarin Naartjie Dwarf

This Dwarf Mandarin Naartjie is technically a Nova Mandarin, and the relatively small fruits are sweet, juicy and delicious, and sometimes referred to as ‘kid-glove naartjies’.  The dwarf trees do not need to be pollinated by another tree and can bear fruit alone, and because they grow very easily in containers they are ideal for small gardens or patios. Depending on the soil, climate conditions and care, the trees can grow to a height of 2 to 3m tall. Container grown specimens will remain small but bear enough fruit for the family. In South Africa, mandarin naartjies flower in spring, with peak blooming generally from late winter to early spring. Different varieties have slightly different blooming and fruiting times, and these are also influenced by the specific climate of the region where they are grown. The harvesting season varies, but generally runs from late April or early May for very early varieties like Clementines, through the mid-season from June to September, and sometimes extending into October for late-season mandarins. 

Naartjie Dwarf ‘Nova’

The deep orange colour and distinctive sweetness of these medium-sized naartjies make them irresistible to fruit-lovers. The Nova Naartjie tends to have a thinner, tighter peel, so they are a little trickier to open than varieties with a loose skin. But, it’s well worth the extra effort for the delicious treat inside. Nova Naartjies are a cross between tangelo and clementine naartjies. The tree reaches a mature height of about 1.5m to 2m, and will do well in a pot with good drainage. Pick your gorgeous, sweet naartjies in May and June, when their skins are orange with no green on them.

Naartjie Dwarf 'Satsuma'

The Dwarf Satsuma Naartjie is sweet, juicy, delicious, and seedless. It grows easily in containers, making it ideal for homes with small gardens or patios. These trees do not require pollination by another tree and can produce fruit independently. Most dwarf satsumas are relatively slow-growing and have a spreading or drooping growth habit. Satsuma cultivars also stand out as the earliest ripening option among soft citrus fruits, and are harvested from mid-March to around the end of May. Dwarf varieties produce the same-sized fruit as standard Satsuma varieties, and the tree size will not affect the fruit yield. Pick your naartjies when they have turned from green to a beautiful orange colour.

Orange/Naartjie Double Grafted Tree

This double-grafted option is a standard-sized tree, with a grafted Naartjie and a grafted Orange. Your tree should produce oranges from April to September and naartjies from May to June. Prune the tree to your desired height to enable easier harvesting, and a good time to prune is once it stops fruiting. Remove branches in the middle of the tree to thin it out and allow sunlight in, this will also help control pests and diseases.

Lemon/Naartjie Double Grafted Tree

This combo is the best-of-two-worlds with a lemon and a naartjie grafted on one tree. This double-grafted option will grow into a standard-sized tree, with a grafted Eureka Lemon and a grafted Nova Naartjie. Your tree should produce Lemons from February to May and Mandarin naartjies between May and October. To enable easier harvesting prune the tree to your desired height once it stops fruiting. Remove branches in the middle of the tree to thin it out and allow sunlight in, this will also help control pests and diseases.

Lemon/Lime Double Grafted Tree

This duo will also tempt you as you have both lemons and limes on one tree. This double-grafted option is a standard-sized tree, with a grafted Eureka Lemon and a grafted Bear’s Lime. Your tree should give you fruit all year round. Limes from January and Lemons between February and July. To enable easier harvesting prune the tree to your desired height once it stops fruiting. Remove branches in the middle of the tree to thin it out and allow sunlight in, this will also help control pests and diseases.

Lime Dwarf 'Bears'

The Dwarf Bears Lime is also known as a Persian Lime. The tree will grow to a height of 1.5m to 2.5m. This evergreen has very few thorns and is prized for its oval vivid green fruit which has a glossy surface when immature, turning a pale-yellow colour when ripe, with a juicy light greenish-yellow pulp. Flowers and fruit develop throughout the year but are more abundant during winter. The slightly fragrant flowers with their long white petals shine against the evergreen glossy foliage.

Lemon Dwarf Rough Skin 

The Rough Skin Lemon is the first cultivar of lemon grown in South Africa. It has bumpy, uneven, thick skin and is popular for its juicier, sweeter flavour. Rough-Skin Lemon trees can withstand cold climates, but if you live in a very cold region, use a frost cover for the first couple of years. The dwarf rough skin lemon will grow to about 2m in height. Your lemons are ready to be picked when their skin has turned from green to yellow (or mostly yellow) and they come off the tree when lifted and twisted. Prune the tree to your desired height to enable easier harvest. A good time to prune your lemon tree is once it stops fruiting. Remove branches in the middle of the tree to thin it out as this will aid in pest and disease control.

Lemon Dwarf ‘Eureka’

Dwarf Eureka lemon trees are small and compact in size, and prolific in fruit production. They grow approximately 1.5 to 2m tall, and despite their small stature, the trees are remarkably easy to care for and maintain. They adapt well to container growing and require less pruning than their larger counterparts, making them ideal for novice gardeners. Lemons can be picked as needed and are typically ripe from late autumn through winter.

Lemon Dwarf ‘Lemonade’

The Dwarf Lemonade (Limoneira) lemon tree grows well in South Africa and has become one of our most popular and productive lemon varieties due to its robust growth, high oil content, and extended flowering period. Introduced to South Africa around 1998, it is known for its fewer seeds, medium-sized fruit, and suitability for processing and fresh use. The fruit is medium-sized, almost seedless, and has high oil content. These lemons are great for fresh use, and the skin is perfect for zesting. Dwarf varieties will produce the exact size of fruit as a standard tree, and crop yield is not restricted. Dwarf lemonade typically reaches a height of approximately 2m, making it perfect for container planting. Lemons can be picked as needed and are typically ripe from late autumn through winter.

Lemon Dwarf ‘Lisbon’

The Dwarf Lisbon lemon tree grows well in South Africa and thrives in hot conditions, even tolerating strong winds. This variety grows vigorously, producing abundant fruit with a thin skin and high acidity. Dwarf varieties will produce the exact size of fruit as a standard tree, and crop yield is not restricted. Lemons can be picked as needed and are typically ripe from late autumn through winter. Dwarf Lisbon lemon trees can grow to approximately 2.5m.

Orange/Lemon Double Grafted Tree

Have your choice of a Lemon or an Orange on one tree. This double-grafted option is a standard-sized tree, with a grafted Eureka Lemon and a grafted Fischer Orange. Your tree should produce Oranges from April to September and Lemons from February to July.

Orange Dwarf ‘Valencia’

Valencia oranges are a popular sweet variety known for their excellent flavour and versatility. They have a thin, bright orange skin with a slightly dimpled surface, and are delicious eaten fresh, either on their own or as part of salads and desserts. Valencia oranges have a longer growing season compared to other orange varieties, often from late winter through summer. This extended season makes them a popular choice for producing fresh juice. Your dwarf variety will produce the same-sized fruit as a standard Valencia tree, and the tree size will not affect the fruit yield. These oranges can grow to 2m tall and are ideal for growing in a pot.

Dwarf Pomegranate ‘Little Charlie’

Little Charlie is a dwarf variety known for several key features and benefits. Its compact size makes it an ideal choice for small gardens. It grows to about 1.5m tall and 1 m wide. It has small, dense leaves that make it ideal for a low, compact hedge. It also grows well in containers and is frost-tolerant once established. The plant produces numerous juicy and flavourful fruits and both the vibrant orange-red flowers and fruits are highly ornamental. This variety is also known for its resilience as it thrives in various climates and is self-pollinating, ensuring a reliable fruit harvest.

Avocado Dwarf 'Hass' 

The Hass avocado is one of the most popular and commercially grown avocado varieties worldwide. Dwarf Hass trees only reach a height of about 2m when fully grown, but they produce the same delicious, creamy-textured fruit as standard-sized trees. Hass avocados are known for their rich flavour and creamy texture, making them a favourite for salads, sandwiches, and guacamole. Overall, Dwarf Hass avocado trees are an excellent choice for avocado enthusiasts who want to enjoy home grown fruit but have limited space for larger trees. Given the proper care, dwarf Hass trees can provide a bountiful harvest of delicious avocados for many years.

Coconut Dwarf ‘Malayan’

The dwarf green coconut palm is a smaller and faster-maturing cultivar of the coconut palm tree. And although these dwarf trees will still reach heights of 7 to 10m, this is still significantly shorter than the standard coconut tree, which can grow up to 30m tall. Green coconuts are harvested when the husk is green. The water inside is sweeter and less thick than mature brown coconuts. As the coconut matures and the husk turns brown, the water inside becomes thicker, cloudier, and savoury. The water in mature brown coconuts also contains less sugar and more minerals than young green coconuts. Coconut trees typically start bearing fruit after 3 to 5 years, and the fruit matures in about 12 months.

Papaya Dwarf 'California' 

Dwarf California Papaya is a unique dwarf cultivar valued for its compact size and fruiting characteristics. It is self-pollinating and grows to about 2 to 3m tall, making it suitable for smaller gardens or containers. It produces elongated yellow fruits when ripe, resembling a cross between a papaya and a banana in appearance. The fruits are often seedless or contain very few seeds, which is unusual for papayas.

Mango Double Grafted Heidi/Tommy Atkins

This duo has a grafted Heidi and a grafted Tommy Atkins, both on the same tree. Mango Heidi is a medium to large-sized, late season mango with a distinctive heart shape, and is deliciously sweet. It is perfect as a summer snack or in smoothies. It grows well in South Africa, and is often grown in the Western Cape. The Tommy Atkins mango is favoured for its long shelf-life and its resistance to bruising when transported. It has beautiful blushed yellow, red and purple skin with irresistible yellow flesh.

Mango Double Grafted Joa/Tommy Atkins

This duo has a grafted Joa and a grafted Tommy Atkins, both on the same tree. Joa Mango is a new South African cultivar which is not farmed commercially as it is not suitable for processing, as the exceptionally high sugar content turns the fruit brown when dried. The skin is shiny and orange to red in colour, and the perfume, flavour and appearance surpass most other mango varieties. The quality of the fruit is exceptional, and can be stored in a fridge with no side effects for up to a month. The Tommy Atkins mango is favoured for its long shelf-life and its resistance to bruising when transported. It has beautiful blushed yellow, red and purple skin with irresistible yellow flesh.

Double-grafted mango trees can be controlled through pruning to grow to a manageable size, typically around 3 to 6m tall and wide, making them suitable for smaller spaces. Unpruned trees can grow much taller, so regular pruning is essential for both controlling size and making the fruit easier to harvest. Prune in summer and again in winter to prevent the tree from becoming too big for your space. You can also stake the branches horizontally, making this duo also good for espalier.

Mango Double Grafted Keitt/Tommy Atkin

This duo has a grafted Keitt and a grafted Tommy Atkins, both on the same tree. Keitt mangoes are large, late-season fruits. Unlike most mango species, Keitts don’t have fibrous pieces in their flesh and remain green when ripe. This creamy, sweet fruit is excellent for desserts, salads, smoothies and preserves. Keitt are late-harvest mangoes harvested in the height of summer. The Tommy Atkins mango is favoured for its long shelf-life and its resistance to bruising when transported. It has beautiful blushed yellow, red and purple skin with irresistible yellow flesh.

Double-grafted mango trees can be controlled through pruning to grow to a manageable size, typically around 3 to 6m tall and wide, making them suitable for smaller spaces, although unpruned trees can grow much taller.

Mango Triple Grafted Keitt/Tommy Atkins/Joa

This trio has a grafted Keitt, Tommy Atkins and Joa, all on the same tree. The fruit of the Keitt mango arrives first, as early as August or September. Then Tommy Atkins mangoes will fruit in early December. You’ll know this medium to large-sized fruit from its thick skin and sunset orange-red colouring, and lastly, Joa will fruit in January/February. What an excellent way to experience these delicious fruits over an extended period.

Keitt mangoes are large, late-season fruits. Unlike most mango species, Keitts don’t have fibrous pieces in their flesh and remain green when ripe. The creamy, sweet fruit is excellent for desserts, salads, smoothies and preserves. Keitt are late-harvest mangoes harvested in the height of summer. The Tommy Atkins mango is favoured for its long shelf-life and its resistance to bruising when transported. It has beautiful blushed yellow, red and purple skin with irresistible yellow flesh. Joa is a new South African cultivar and is not farmed commercially as it is not suitable for processing as the exceptionally high sugar content turns the fruit brown when dried. The skin is shiny and orange to red in colour, and the perfume, flavour and appearance surpasses most other mango varieties. The quality of the fruit is exceptional, and can be stored in a fridge with no side effects for up to a month.

Cultivation:

Correct care and maintenance of your dwarf, double and triple grafted fruit trees will ensure they stay healthy and grow in a balanced form, producing their nutritious crops for years to come.

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Image by Dieter G from PixabayGrowing Dwarf, Double and Triple Grafted Fruit Trees in Pots

Potted fruit trees are great assets for small gardens and they look lovely adorning patios, walkways and even small balconies.  Growing your tree in a pot will reduce the size of the tree to about two thirds the size the tree would normally grow in the ground. Start by selecting a pot a bit bigger than the plant bag it is currently growing in, and as a guide, every year or two you will need to repot into a slightly bigger pot. If you don't want to pot up every year you can also plant you directly into a large pot around the size of a half wine barrel size or larger, but you will then need to ensure that the soil has perfect drainage and that you do not overwater.  

Terracotta pots are great but they will need extra watering compared to ceramic or plastic pots. Heavier pots provide stability and prevent the tree from tipping or blowing over easily. Ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot.

Use a high-quality potting mix, remove the bag and place the tree in the centre of the pot, ensuring the graft union (the knobby part where the different fruits are grafted) is above the soil line. Fill around the root ball with more potting mix, gently firming it down to eliminate air pockets. Give your tree a thorough watering to settle the soil.

Caring for potted fruit trees involves regular watering. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. In hot weather, this may mean watering daily. Use a balanced fertilizer every 6 to 8 weeks during the growing season.

Prune to shape the tree and keep it smaller and more accessible, and to remove any weak, dead or diseased branches.

Mango Double Grafted Planting Dwarf, Double and Triple Grafted Fruit Trees in Garden Beds

Select a site in full sun and where it will be sheltered from strong winds if possible. Dig a square hole, twice the size of the plant bag. Incorporate compost into the soil. Cut off the plastic bag and place the tree in the hole ensuring the graft union (the knobby part where the different fruits are grafted) is above the soil line. Fill around the root ball with more compost, gently firming it down to eliminate air pockets. If you have heavy or clay soils, plant your tree on top of the ground and mound soil up onto it. This will prevent your trees from becoming waterlogged. Give your tree a thorough watering to settle the soil. Add a thick layer of mulch to hold the moisture but keep it well away from the stems.

If you are planting several trees, ensure that you space them correctly to allow forgood air flow and sufficient space to harvest and prune between the trees

Keep your tree moist at all times, watering more often during the hotter months. Once established a weekly deep watering is better than frequent light sprinklings, as this promotes deeper root development. Reduce watering habits for dormant trees during the winter months.

Fertilise 2 to 3 times a year, in late winter, early summer and again in early autumn. Compost and mature manure are excellent fertilisers. Supplement with a good fertiliser for fruiting plants or a slow release fertiliser. Keep fertilisers well away from the trunk of the tree.

How to prune Dwarf, Double and Triple Grafted Fruit Trees

While your tree is young, it's most important that a comparison is made between the growth and vigour of each fruit’s branch work (we call this branch work “graft”). If one of the fruit grafts is growing faster, compared to the others, then it should be cut and shortened to ensure that each separate graft is growing at a ‘balanced’ and even rate. If all the grafts are not ‘balanced’ regularly, especially when the tree is young, then the faster growing grafts will become bigger, stronger and eventually dominate over the others, and depriving the slower growers of nutrients and space to grow.

Check for balancing about once a month and keep each graft confined to grow in its own area of the tree.  When your tree is more mature, you'll need to ensure an overall wine glass shape, allowing room for air circulation and sunlight to reach the trunk.

Fruit Espalier. Picture by Gail Langellotto from flickrCan I espalier my Dwarf, Double and Triple Grafted Fruit Trees?

Yes you can espalier your trees along a wall on your balcony or against a fence or wall. This method saves space and is especially helpful for Apple trees as it provides extra support for heavy cropping. The art of espalier is a lot of work but can be great fun and most rewarding. A few of the benefits include being able to grow fruit at home in a narrow space, and where the fruit is easy to pick and maintain. This method can also be very artistic, and if done correctly, is guaranteed to have your neighbours talking.

Espalier is all about selectively pruning and training a plant into a desired shape, and an espalier fruit tree is the result of intensive training, so if you want to adopt this technique, bear in mind that that any espalier undertaking will be time consuming and can take years to complete. However, once established this method can make an exceptional focal point in bare areas of the garden, and especially along the large bare outdoor walls of your home, or perimeter walls. When trained on a free-standing trellis, these plants can also serve as attractive screens to hide unsightly views or to add privacy.

Sunlight needs to reach all the branches and fruit, so it’s best to direct growth to allow sunlight to hit the middle of the tree, you can do this by positioning the branches so there’s a V shape between each branch.

Branches of young trees can be gently persuaded to grow in any direction. You can guide them using bamboo stakes (or similar) and cloth strip ties made of old T-shirts. This technique may be useful for training against walls/structures or directing individual grafts.

Despite our best efforts, sometimes the grafts (branches) will grow along the one side of the rootstock or Mother Tree. Such trees can be gently nudged to grow in a desired direction by manoeuvring branches away from one another by staking and tying. Young branches are very flexible, but if the desired position requires a dramatic change in branch direction, training should be done gradually. This may mean moving the stake and ties every few weeks until branches are where you want them.

Remove rootstock growth

Any ‘rootstock’ growth on the tree must be removed as soon as possible. The rootstock tree is the main central stem of the tree and its root system under the soil. This is the ‘mother’ tree and it hosts the fruit grafts that have been attached (grafted) to it. If the roots shoot any growth out from the soil, cut it off as low as you can, and as soon as you can. You don’t want that growth to take energy away from the fruit grafts attached higher up on the central stem.

Thinning the fruit

The first fruits on your tree will appear anywhere between 6 and 18 months. On young trees its best to remove these fruits to allow your tree to use the energy to grow and develop a sturdy framework, which needs to be ahead of any fruit production.

South Africa has an intensely rich botanical heritage, and many of the ornamental plants that grace international gardens have South African roots.

International interest in indigenous South African plants increased in the middle of the eighteenth century when Linnaeus started describing and naming the dried specimens he received from the Western Cape.

Numerous botanical travellers and explorers like Thunberg, Drège, Burchell and Masson continued Linnaeus’ work, describing in detail the novelty of the southern African flora. More recently, Hutchinson in 1946, and Beukes in 1996, continued the work of detailing the novelty of our flora.

The uniqueness of our flora remains the focus of international floriculture and includes the breeding and commercial cultivation of cut flowers and many of our flowering ornamental plants for landscaping. This includes potted plants, foliage plants, bulbous plants and bedding plants for gardens.

African DaisyAfrican Daisy, Rankbietou, umasigcolo nkonekazi (Dimorphotheca)

Thanks to plant breeders who continue to expand their funky colour palette, and unique petal shapes, which vary by variety, African daisies continue to rise in popularity, and today they are available in garden centres worldwide, in a wide selection of varieties and new cultivars.

The flowers of these garden hybrids are so striking that you may even wonder if they’ve been dyed or painted, and their central disks look as if they have been coloured with metallic paint. Hybrids are available in inspiring shades of wine-red, white, pink, violet, yellow, orange, and terracotta. The upright species are delightful in the flower border, and the trailing habit of the spreading evergreen species makes them good groundcovers and border plants. They are also lovely planted in rockeries or pots where they can cascade over.

Hybrids are also selected for their long blooming time, and can flower through spring, summer and autumn. So, by selecting a variety of these daisies you can extend their blooming time, and who wouldn’t want to do that.

These gorgeous indigenous beauties are not only tough and water-wise, they revel in full sun, and adapt to a variety of landscapes, from arid to subtropical, tolerating drought and surviving in dry and windy environments. They are perfect for exposed coastal gardens, and some are hardy to frost while others are more tender, so select those most suitable for your climatic region.

Members can click here to read more about the African daisy

Kingfisher DaisyKingfisher Daisy, Bloumagriet (Felicia)

Blue is a sought after colour amongst gardeners because it is quite rare, especially a true blue shade. Kingfisher Daisies, with their masses of striking sky-blue and sunny yellow flower heads fit the bill, catching the eye wherever they are planted.

This little plant did not go un-noticed and was one of the earliest species used in horticulture, first being introduced to Europe in the middle of the eighteenth century; it also features on one of our stamps.

Sky-blue, pale blue, violet-blue, pink and white flowered forms are available, as well as a variegated variety and a beautiful annual which is entirely blue.

There are approximately 84 species of Felicia, and South Africa is blessed with about 79 of them. Although most are found in the Cape provinces, Felicia ranges as far north as Arabia. Depending on the climate where they are grown, flowering times can vary and in some regions the plants may flower almost continuously, or give their best flush in spring and summer, or even in late summer and autumn. Generally, in hot climates the plant will stop blooming when temperatures rise in midsummer. Full heads of seeds follow the flowers, readily becoming detached and floating away on even the slightest breeze.

These evergreen perennials are long-lived in the garden and the delicate beauty of their blooms belies their ruggedness. They are excellent container plants and if planted in mass, make a breath-taking sight when in bloom. Mix them with indigenous Grasses, Aloes, Pincushions, Red Hot Pokers and other indigenous plants for a glorious show, or use them in mixed flower borders as filler plants.

They are also excellent for pebble gardens and rockeries, and provide valuable colour if combined with other plants in retaining walls.Taller growing varieties can even be clipped into a tiny formal hedge, and all of them combine well with other plants in mixed containers.

Although they are mainly sun loving, Felicias will also grow quite happily in semi-shade and do well in the light, dappled shade of trees. In fact, these versatile little gems can be used almost anywhere you have a reasonably sunny spot in the garden.

The flowers make lovely little cut flowers for the vase and in the garden they are visited by butterflies, bees and many other small flying insect. You may even occasionally spot a well camouflaged, bright yellow ‘flower’ spider lurking in the centre of the bloom.

Members can click here to read more about Felicia

Clivia miniataClivia, Boslelie, umayime (Clivia)

Each spring and early summer these indigenous perennials bring splendorous colour to shady gardens around the world. Because Clivia miniata only occur in certain regions of South Africa, and nowhere else in the world they are referred to as "endemic" to these regions. Bush lilies can be found growing wild from Morgan’s Bay in the Eastern Cape, right up into northern KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland and Mpumalanga. Their habitat can vary from low subtropical coastal forests, to ravines in high altitude forests.

They love growing in dappled shade in well-drained leaf mould that is rich in humus; occurring between boulders and on slopes along river banks, where they form large colonies of plants. Due to their use in traditional medicine and their removal from the wild by unscrupulous plant collectors, many colonies have been destroyed.

Today they are grown around the world and in China and Japan they are bred extensively.

Clivia nobilis and Clivia gardenii have pendulous green, orange, reddish-orange or yellow flowers.

Clivia miniata has flowers that are usually a bright orange with a pale yellow throat. They are also found in cream, and shades of orange, pink or red.

Clivia miniata var. citrina has creamy yellow flowers. The variegated Clivia miniata ‘Striata’ has white or yellow stripes on the leaves.

Once the flowering season is over in mid-October, the arching dark green leaves remain an attractive feature, and by autumn the plants display masses of red berries.

Bush lilies are spectacular container plants, and look best in pots with broad rims, where they have room to spread. They can remain in the same pot for several years and actually bloom better if they are pot bound.

Bush lilies thrive in cool moist conditions, in bright shade or semi-shade.

Members can click here to read more about Clivias

Gerbera 'Moulin Rouge'Barberton Daisy, Rooigousblom (Gerbera jamesonii)

Gerbera jamesonii is a South African plant which is renowned around the world for its beautiful single or double flowers in an array of bold and pastel shades from red and orange, to pink, yellow and white.

It grows wild only in the eastern part of Mpumalanga and the southern part of the Limpopo Province; occurring in grasslands and on rocky slopes; on sandy well drained soil in full sun or semi-shade. Its common name arose from the old gold-rush town of Barberton, where it grows in great profusion.

The genus name Gerbera was given in honour of the German naturalist Traugott Gerber, and the species was named after Robert Jameson who first described it and collected live specimens while on a prospecting expedition to the Barberton district in 1884. The flag and coat of arms of the Province of Mpumalanga include a depiction of this flower.

In 1888, Medley Wood, the curator of the Durban Botanical Garden sent plants to Kew. The breeding of Gerbera started at the end of the 19th century in Cambridge, England, when Richard Lynch crossed Gerbera jamesonii and Gerbera viridifolia.

Hundreds of Hybrid Gerbera (Gerbera jamesonii x Hybrid) have been bred over the years and most of the current commercially grown varieties originate from this cross.

Gerberas are sold worldwide as cut flowers and indoor pot plants, but can also be grown outdoors in garden beds and pots.

In the garden flowering occurs in spring and autumn, but for the florist’s trade these beauties are cultivated year round.

These sun loving perennials are wonderful in flower beds and make excellent edging or border plants, requiring minimal maintenance once established. They are excellent rockery plants; and because they are deep rooted, are valuable for mass plantings to prevent soil erosion.

Members can click here to read more about Barberton Daisies

Dierama Hairbells, Grasklokkies, isiDwendweni (Dierama)

Dierama is a genus of about 44 species of flowering plants in the Iris family and is endemic to Africa. The majority of species occur in South Africa, with the greatest diversity found in KwaZulu-Natal which has about 26 species. Being evergreen they are adapted to the summer rainfall regions with their westerly range terminating at Knysna. In the Eastern Cape and Kwa-Zulu Natal they may be found from just above sea level to the Drakensberg escarpment.

Despite its wide distribution, Dierama is restricted to a single major habitat - moist grassland, making it the perfect candidate for grassland and wildlife gardens.

These evergreen perennials grow from large fibrous-coated corms and form large clumps of narrow, grass-like leaves. When in flower, the slightest breath of wind causes the tall flowering stems to sway gently adding a magical quality to the plants. Flowering time varies slightly between the species, but is mainly from September to March.

Today there are many beautiful garden cultivars in shades of pink, reddish-pink, mauve, white, and rarely, yellow. The flowers are excellent for cutting. The flowers attract butterflies, honey bees and carpenter bees, and even when not in bloom, their foliage remains attractive.

The various species vary in height and spread, ranging from 1 to 1.6m tall, and can take 2 to 5 years to reach their ultimate height.

Choose an open and airy position in full sun to plant Dierama. Try mixing them with ornamental grasses or use them as an accent plant in flower borders. Dierama are also a good choice to plant on banks and slopes, and are attractive near water. They will also grow in deep containers.

Members can click here to read more about Dieramas

Watsonia borbonica Cape Bugle Lily, Kanolpypie (Watsonia)

Watsonia is a genus of plants in the Iris family and endemic to South Africa; meaning originally they could not be found growing wild anywhere else in the world. Because of their alluring beauty they were exported, but sadly, in countries like Australia, New Zealand, and parts of California, they escaped from garden cultivation and are now considered to be an invasive weed.

There are about 52 species, most of which are concentrated in the south-western parts of the Western Cape, but also extending north into Namaqualand, and east into the summer rainfall areas of southern KwaZulu-Natal, Lesotho, Mpumalanga and Swaziland. Most are deciduous fynbos plants which are adapted to a Mediterranean-type climate with hot, dry summers and wet winters. The majority of the species occur in mountainous regions, with a couple occurring in sandy flats and marshy areas.

Those which occur in the summer rainfall regions are evergreen.  Evergreen selections include: Watsonia angusta, Watsonia fourcadeii, Watsonia galpinii, Watsonia knysnana, Watsonia pillansii and Watsonia zeyheri.

Deciduous selections include: Watsonia borbonica, Watsonia marginata, Watsonia meriana and Watsonia vanderspuyiae

Watsonias will burst into bloom during the spring and early summer months (September to around January in South Africa). The flowers last for four or five weeks, making this a rewarding addition to the garden.

All are perennial herbs with attractive upright lance shaped leaves and erect spikes of showy flowers. When not in bloom, the foliage is still decorative and after flowering has finished, attractive seed pods are produced.

In the wild the plants flower particularly profusely in the first and second years following a fire; and in recently burnt areas provide a major source of food for nectar-feeding birds and insects.

Due to crop cultivation many Watsonia species are losing habitat throughout their range, making it important for us to continue cultivating them in our gardens.

Because they are so easy to grow and have a long flowering period, Watsonias are ideal for busy gardeners. They are also perfect water-wise plants for the winter rainfall regions, thriving in a Mediterranean climate.

They look magnificent in mass plantings or planted in clumps in herbaceous borders, or even in large containers. They are also excellent for soil retention on banks.

Watsonias are great subjects for low maintenance gardens and their flowers will attract sunbirds. The blooms last quite well in a vase, so feel free to cut the stems for bouquets as this will not hurt the plants.

Members can click here to read more about Watsonias

Agapanthus 'Blackjack'Agapanthus, Agapant, Isicakathi

Our very own Agapanthus is one of South Africa’s botanical treasures and is exported to the entire world. Agapanthus ‘Black Jack’ was developed by De Wet breeders and was nominated the plant of the year at the 2023 Chelsea Flower Show. Black Jack is a vibrant, intensely coloured Agapanthus with almost black buds that open to very dark purple flowers. Its vigorous growth, disease resistance, and heat and drought tolerance make it a standout. Agapanthus also contributes significantly to South Africa’s ecological and cultural heritage.

The Agapanthaceae family has only one genus which is endemic to southern Africa, meaning that it does not occur naturally anywhere else in the world.  With the exception of the Northern Cape, the 6 species of Agapanthus grow wild in all our provinces, as well as Lesotho, Swaziland and Mozambique. The species cover a wide range of habitats, occurring from sea level to about 2 000m, extending along the south-western, southern and eastern coastlines, and inland to the Limpopo River, frequenting areas which receive more than 500mm of rainfall per annum.

Agapanthus species easily hybridize with each other, and as a result, a bewildering array of garden hybrids have arisen, but  virtually all the Agapanthus that we grow in our gardens are hybrids of our two beautiful evergreen Agapanthus species, whose flowers range in colour from blues to white.

A great many breeding programmes have given rise to a wide variety of exciting dwarf, medium, and taller growing forms. The small varieties have an abundance of small blooms, while the larger ones can produce quite spectacularly large umbels on tall, strong stems. The colours are also quite remarkable nowadays and come in all shades, including the well-known blue-purple hues, to white, and even pink and bi-colour varieties.

Agapanthus fit into any colour scheme, the white ones will stand out in a twilight garden, and the blue shades give depth to a pastel flower border.

When it comes to fire breaks, Agapanthus remains one of the most popular plants, as their foliage slows down a fire, and their underground roots and tubers survive fires and help prevent the soil from being blown or washed away when there is little other vegetation around after a fire. And as soon as the rains return they will re-sprout.

In Australia, farmers have used Agapanthus as fire breaks for over one hundred years, and they have proved their resilience, sparing many farms and homes from wildfires. Agapanthus can be used in all the garden zones, but is highly recommended for the buffer zone.

Members can click here to read more about Agapanthus

Coleonema 'Pink'Confetti Bush, Aasbossie (Coleonema)

This wonderful indigenous plant of ours was once voted New Zealand’s "Shrub of the Year" and has remained one of its top selling shrubs for more than a decade. It was apparently first discovered in a garden in Western Australia and was introduced to the United States in the late 1980's.

Their fine evergreen foliage and wonderful floral display is what makes confetti bushes sought after garden plants the world over. Garden hybrids most typically form dense and compact shrubs. In winter to early summer they produce tiny white or pink star shaped flowers in such profusion that the bush appears covered in a cloud of white or pink confetti, hence its common name. Regeneration takes place from seeds which ripen in summer and are ejected by a catapult mechanism known as ‘ballistic dispersal’ - ensuring the seeds fall far from the mother plant.

Coleonema is a genus of 8 species of enchanting, evergreen flowering plants in the family Rutaceae, which includes Citrus, Rue and Buchu. There are eight species which occur in the Western and Eastern Cape; from Saldanha Bay to the Cape Peninsula and East as far as Bredasdorp. These coastal plants grow at sea level and up to a maximum altitude of 750m and are adapted to sandy, nutrient poor soil. They are drought resistant once established and tolerate strong winds.

Coleonema pulchellum has grey-green foliage and bears clear pink flowers from May to October, growing 80cm to 1.5m tall. It is found growing along coastal flats from Knysna to Port Elizabeth and occurs naturally from sea level to 150m.

Several beautiful varieties have been selected for the garden:

Dark Pink’ bears dark pink flowers in winter to early summer and grows +-50cm tall. ‘Light Pink’ bears light pink flowers and grows +-1.5m tall. ‘Pink’ has dark pink flowers and grows +-1.2m tall. 'Sunset Gold' bears pale pink flowers and grows +-70 to 80cm tall. It is loved worldwide for its bright golden yellow foliage which makes an excellent contrast in the garden. 

If planted in groups and trimmed lightly confetti bushes will form a dense, ground covering bush that no weeds can penetrate once it’s established. Confetti bushes are beautiful additions to the fynbos garden together with Proteas, Leonotis, Metalasia, Ericas, Pincushions, Buchu and Restios. Try combining them with perennials like Felicia, Geranium incanum, Euryops, Pelargonium, and Scabiosa for a wonderful show.

Confetti bushes are great filler plants for the mixed shrub border or rock garden and are essential in all wildlife gardens.

Because they respond well to trimming they are popular for topiary. Try clipping them into little balls or tiny hedges, or plant them closely together as an informal screening plant, or windbreak. If you have enough space, plant them in groups of 3 or 5, for maximum impact.

Confetti bushes also grows beautifully in containers, are interesting specimens for floral arrangements, and a favourite with bonsai growers.

They have non-invasive roots and can be planted close to pools, paving, walls and building foundations.

Members can click here to read more about Confetti bushes

Polygala fruitcosa September Bush, Augustusbossie, ulopesi (Polygala)

Polygalas bloom for a long time in the garden, and are not only charming, but also pretty tough and obliging, growing inland and at the coast. They are low maintenance, water-wise plants, which can be grown in semi-shade and full sun. And because they also attract wildlife to the garden, polygalas have caught the attention of eco-conscious gardeners around the country.

Members of this large family of plants occur in temperate and warm climates around the world; and include perennials, shrubs and trees. Some of the other common names for them include milkwort and false legume. Although their pea-like flowers resemble those of legumes, polygalas are easily distinguished from legumes by the feathery tuft on their lower petals.

There are approximately 88 species of Polygala that occur in southern Africa, and they are especially prolific in the south-western Cape and common from near Clanwilliam in the Western Cape, to Kwazulu-Natal. However, polygala can be found growing wild in both the summer and winter rainfall regions of South Africa, and in most provinces.

These showy indigenous plants are widespread pioneer shrubs, which can commonly be found growing on dunes and rocky slopes, as well as in scrub and open grasslands; thriving in forests, and alongside streams.

Polygalas bloom for a long time in the garden, and are pretty tough and obliging. All species have upright-growing stems and gracefully slender branches, densely covered with glossy, myrtle-like leaves, which can be green or slightly grey.

Flowers come in shades of mauve or purple, but can also be pink, scarlet, or white; and although they can appear sporadically throughout the year, flowering peaks in late winter, spring, and early summer.

Because polygalas come in tall and dwarf forms, grow very quickly, and do not have invasive roots, they are perfect for gardens large and small – even a small balcony garden could support one.

There are species available for all climates, some forms are very frost hardy, and all are suitable for windy, coastal gardens.

These fast growing evergreens are low maintenance, water-wise plants, which can be grown in full sun or semi-shade. Therefore, they are perfect for those difficult garden beds that change from full sun to semi-shade with the seasons.

Colourful and free flowering - polygalas are low maintenance plants that require very little watering once established, making them ideal to plant in the low water usage area of your garden, and in rock gardens.

They are wonderful for coastal gardens, and a valuable addition to fynbos or Mediterranean gardens. Plant them in shrub borders and on the fringes of woodland gardens, or plant them closely together for an excellent fast growing windbreak or informal screen or hedge.

In tiny gardens the taller growing species can even be trained into a small tree. The smaller growing species grow well in containers and make pretty border plants. 

The flowers last well in a vase and will attract many insects to the garden, and especially butterflies, honey and carpenter bees. The insects will attract insect-eating birds, and the seeds are relished by laughing doves and other seed-eating birds.

Members can click here to read more about Polygalas

Protea cynaroides 'King Redrex'Proteas

Much of the international interest in our flora is focused on the flora of the Cape Floral Kingdom, and our iconic King Protea, a symbol of our rich botanical heritage, remains a star attraction in South Africa’s exhibit at the Chelsea Royal Horticultural Show.

It’s hard to pinpoint what draws people to these almost rugged looking plants with their unusual flowers. Perhaps it’s more a feeling they evoke that enchants people, and somehow we recognise that these are very ancient plants, and they certainly are. Dating back approximately 140 million years, Proteas are considered to be among the oldest families of flowering plants on the earth.

In South Africa, Proteas have become synonymous with the country’s strength and beauty and the national symbol of resilience. They display a vast range of forms, colours, and sizes and are particularly revered for being drought-tolerant. These flowers generally prefer well-drained soil and flourish in areas with full sun exposure.

Over the years, local and international plant breeders have developed an outstanding variety of hybrid proteas, giving them special names. Most proteas flower in winter, spring or early summer, but many of the newer hybrids will even flower at different times of the year, which is ideal for gardeners who plan to colour their garden throughout the seasons.

Members can click here to read more about Proteas

Erica formosa 'White Bells' Ericas

Out of the 6 floral kingdoms represented around the world, fynbos is the most biodiverse, and the only one that is located entirely in one country. Ericas form one of the main constituents of this distinctive Cape flora, along with Restios, Proteas, Buchus and Brunias. And although the genus is made up of approximately 860 species worldwide, we are extraordinarily blessed to have 760 of those species here in South Africa.

It’s difficult to describe Ericas - their flowers are simply enchanting and sure to capture your heart. All gardeners feel the same way, and our Ericas are grown in gardens and parks all over the world for their irresistible beauty. As long as their needs are met, they are fairly adaptable and will grow in most regions of South Africa, with the exception of those very dry summer rainfall regions, or humid subtropical areas.

With so many species available, you’re sure to find the perfect one for your garden. Potted Ericas for patios or entryways is still very trendy, making these little gems suitable for gardens small and large. Because flowering times may vary slightly from year to year, and region to region, bear this in mind when planning your garden.

Members can click here to read more about Ericas.

Freylinia tropica 'Blue'Honeybell Bush, Blouheuningklokkies (Freylinia tropica)

The charming Honey-bell bush heralds spring in South Africa in the most delightful way. Its abundance of dainty flowers in delicate shades of pale blue, mauve and white are sure to make you smile, and if you see them for sale you will find it hard to resist buying a couple for your garden.

Their fast growth and good looks work well in any garden setting, large or small, and this shrub has been embraced by modern urban gardeners who are searching for plants which are not only pretty and versatile, but also those that are low maintenance, water-wise, and easy to grow. Another plus is that the plant is not poisonous, and the roots are not aggressive, making it ideal to plant close to pathways or foundations. Modern trends also advocate limiting the spraying of chemicals in the garden, and with more and more gardeners looking for plants which are virtually pest free, Freylinia tropica fits the bill perfectly.

In South Africa there are 9 species of Freylinia, 8 of which are found in the Cape Province, and Freylinia tropica which occurs in the summer rainfall regions.

South African species are: Freylinia tropica, Freylinia crispa, Freylinia densiflora, Freylinia helmei, Freylinia lanceolata, Freylinia longiflora, Freylinia undulata, Freylinia visseri and Freylinia vlokii.

Freylinia tropica is ideal to plant in rock gardens, and blends in just as effortlessly into a bushveld garden as it does in a fynbos or English cottage styled garden.

For wildlife gardens this shrub is a ‘must-have’ as sunbirds and other nectar-feeders will visit the flowers, as will bees, moths, and butterflies like the Pansy and Brown Veined White, and a host of other beneficial pollinators.

One of its common names is the “Inyanga Hedge Plant” because honey-bell bushes respond well to clipping and can be trained into hedges or screens, and they are also popular ‘standard’ or 'lollipop' plants. Training also allows them to be used to good effect in narrow spaces, or to screen walls and fences.

The honey-bell bush is also excellent to mass plant underneath trees in light shade, and in the mixed border it blends in effortlessly with other flowering shrubs.

If you are grouping Freylinia tropica informally in flower borders, plant 1.5m to 2m apart. For a more formal hedge space the plants about 75cm to 1m apart.

And because it is easy to grow in pots, even the smallest balcony garden can sport one or two honey-bell bushes.

Members can click here to read more about the Honeybell Bush

Cape HoneysuckleCape Honeysuckle, Kaapse Kanferfoelie, malangula (Tecomaria capensis)

This indigenous shrub remains wildly popular with gardeners in South Africa and around the world for its clusters of tubular flowers. Thanks to modern garden hybrids it is now available in brilliant shades of orange, red, yellow, apricot or salmon.

Flowering is prolific in spring but sporadic flowering occurs throughout summer and into autumn and winter. Modern garden hybrids have even more blooming power, and the vibrancy of the flower colours is shown off perfectly by the plants glossy, dark green leaves. The flowers are followed by long, narrow seed pods which split open when ripe, to disperse the seeds.

In the wild Tecomaria capensis grows at the edges of evergreen forests, and in bush and sheltered scrubland, growing as a sprawling, rampant, sometimes vine-like shrub that produces orange-red flowers. It is widely distributed throughout the Eastern Cape coasts, KwaZulu-Natal, Swaziland, Mpumalanga, the Northern Province and Mozambique. The flowers are pollinated by nectar-feeding birds, especially sunbirds, but are also visited by honeybees and butterflies.

In the garden it is fast growing and will vary in height and spread depending on how it is pruned. If left to its own devices it can grow anything from 1.5 to 3m tall, with an equal spread, but just a little pruning can keep it compact enough for even the smallest garden.

The Cape honeysuckle is a useful ornamental, screening or hedging plant and grows easily in pots. It is ideal to plant in seaside gardens, and because it is water-wise, is used for xeriscaping - landscaping and gardening that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental water from irrigation.

In large areas it can be planted as a groundcover, and on rocky slopes it is marvellous to control soil erosion.

To train it as a climber you will need to tie it to a support, or weave it through chain-link or wooden fences and trellises. It can also be espaliered on a wall, or trained to cascade beautifully down a garden wall.

The Cape honeysuckle is a carefree garden plant which does not suffer from any serious peats and diseases, making it perfect for eco-conscious gardeners who do not spray harmful chemicals.

Members can click here to read more about Cape Honeysuckle

Mackaya bellaForest Bell Bush, Bosklokkiesbos, Mufhanza (Mackaya bella)

This gorgeous indigenous evergreen is wonderful in all shady gardens, and occurs only in certain regions of South Africa and nowhere else in the world. It is a member of the large Acanthaceae family which includes other South African favourites for the garden like the beautiful Black-eyed-Susan creeper and the Bush Violet.

It is the only member of the genus Mackaya and can be found growing wild in evergreen forests, where it loves to grow alongside streams; occurring from the coastal areas of the Eastern Cape to KwaZulu-Natal and Swaziland, as well as in Mpumulanga and Limpopo. Bella means "beautiful" in Latin, and is a tribute to the arching sprays of white or lavender, bell-shaped flowers. The flowers are marked with delicate purple or pink lines in the throat or on the petals.

The forest bell bush flowers profusely in spring and summer, but has a long flowering period and may even flower until early December, depending on climate. The large, glossy, dark-green leaves are borne on long slender stems, and are also most attractive.  If grown under ideal conditions, this beautiful plant is long-lived with an upright growth habit, 1.5 to 3m tall, with an almost equal spread of about 2m, if left un-pruned.

The forest bell bush is essential for all shady gardens and will thrive if planted amongst trees or near water, growing even in dense shade. This versatile plant can be trained to grow as a large shrub or small tree, and is an excellent choice for an informal hedge or screen. It also grows beautifully in large containers.

Because the roots are non-invasive, it is perfect for even tiny gardens and can safely be planted near to swimming pools and foundations. The flowers will attract carpenter bees and are a favourite food source for the blue-pansy butterfly.

Members can click here to read more about the Forest Bell Bush

Strelitzia reginaeCrane Flower, Kraanvoëlblom, Ikhamanga (Strelitzia)

Strelitzias are a unique group of plants indigenous to South Africa, belonging to the plant family Strelitziaceae. There are 5 different species: Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia juncea, Strelitzia nicolai, Strelitzia alba and Strelitzia caudata.

The crane flower (Strelitzia reginae) is the most commonly known garden strelitzia. It was introduced to England in 1733 and named in honour of Queen Sophia Charlotte, the wife of George the 3rd of England; and a princess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, hence the name “Strelitzia”.

The crane flower, with its striking form and unusual flowers, has become a favourite garden subject in warm climates around the world. It has adapted so happily to foreign climates that it has even been adopted as the civic emblem of the American City of Los Angeles. In South Africa, the Strelitzia, together with the blue Agapanthus and Arum Lily, first appeared on the 50c coin that was introduced in 1965, as part of the second decimal series.

The Strelitzia flower has also received one major award: the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit (AGM). This award recognizes plants that are considered outstanding and suitable for gardening.

The crane flower (Strelitzia reginae) is used as a bold structural plant and will give a tropical look to your garden. The crane flower is highly recommended for mass plantings at office parks and schools.

The rush leafed strelitzia (Strelitzia juncea) is a rare and sought after variety which makes a handsome feature plant in the garden with its long erect, needle-like leaves. It looks wonderful if planted in large groups.

Strelitzia alba, Strelitzia caudata and Strelitzia nicolai make wonderful specimen plants for medium to large gardens. The Natal wild banana (Strelitzia Nicolai) withstands salty coastal winds, making it a good feature plant or screen for coastal gardens. This lush looking evergreen is effective for creating a tropical effect. It grows well in large pots for many years, and this would be the best way to grow it in a small garden.

Members can click here to read more about Strelitzias

Kniphofia praecoxRed Hot Poker, Vuurpyle (Kniphofia)

Pokers have risen and fallen in popularity over the years with South African gardeners but are wildly popular with gardeners around the world. Recent breeding work done overseas has resulted in a larger range of pokers available to gardeners there. These new garden varieties are more compact and have improved colours ranging from red and orange through yellow to green and even brown and pink.

It’s really sad that this plant still seems to be appreciated more overseas than it is here at home. Let us bring these beauties back to their rightful place in our gardens.

Pokers can be grown throughout South Africa as they are tough as nails, handling frost and conditions at the coast just as well. They love full sun, especially if growing in moist areas, but they will also take some shade.

This genus of about 70 species is distributed in eastern and southern Africa, with one species in Madagascar and another in southern Arabia.

A few species are deciduous but most are evergreen and common at higher elevations, although some can be found near the coast.  The Herbaceous species go dormant in winter and have narrow, grass-like leaves, varying in length from 10cm to 1m long, while the evergreen species have broader, strap-shaped foliage up to 1.5m long.

There are autumn and winter, and spring and summer flowering species, which help to extend the season in the garden. The flower heads consist of clusters of tubular flowers, arranged in inflorescences that vary from cylindrical and elongated, to more compact ball shapes. Most are red and bright orange when immature, and the flowers of some species change to bright yellow or even white as they mature, giving that striking bicolour effect.

The close affinity pokers have with aloes is quite obvious and both are classified in the family Asphodelaceae. However, whereas aloes have succulent leaves, Kniphofia has channelled, fibrous leaves which are almost always V-shaped in cross section. The plants derive their nourishment from rhizomes growing well below ground level and it is from these rhizomes that the leaves arise.

Pokers are invaluable for brightening up dreary winter gardens, and because they also do well in pots they can be incorporated into even small gardens. The flowering spikes make striking cut flowers, so be sure to bring their beauty indoors, as doing so will not hurt your plants and will actually encourage the production of more blossoms.

Because these plants multiply easily and form large clumps, they make a striking statement in the garden even when not in bloom, and when in full bloom their tall and colourful spires always attract attention. 

The flowers are adapted to sunbird pollination and the Table Mountain beauty butterfly is always attracted to red flowers, and is often seen sucking nectar on pokers. Bees are attracted like magnets, and other unexpected nectar eating guests may include reptiles, and mammals, notably various species of bats.

Pokers are so easy to grow and very versatile, looking exceptionally pretty planted between grasses and aloes in grassland gardens, and are just as effective in tropical looking and ultra-modern designs. The larger species are wonderful architectural plants in the garden, and because they form dense clumps, they look spectacular in mass plantings.

It goes without saying that pokers are a ‘must-have’ for wildlife gardens large and small, and we need to use them a lot more, not only for the beauty they bring us, but to support our wildlife which is under much strain.

Members can click here to read more about Red Hot Pokers

Pelargonium zonalGeranium, Malva (Pelargonium)

There are about 250 species of these plants, mainly from South Africa with a few from the rest of Africa, Australia and the Middle East. With about 300 identified species, different geraniums have different schedules for blooming; some bloom in early spring; others bloom in the fall, and others bloom at all points in between.

The popular Geraniums you find at most garden centres actually belong to the genus Pelargonium. These beautiful hybrid plants have been bred from our indigenous Pelargoniums and can flower all year round in ideal climatic conditions.

Geraniums require cool night time temperatures around 15°C to induce blooming. This means that spring, early summer and autumn are the main blooming times, but the exact season depends on the climate and the type of geranium you're growing.

Zonal geraniums are a group loved for their large flower heads in shades of pink, orange, red, purple and white. These varieties of Pelargonium are called zonal geraniums on account of the coloured zone, which appears on the upper leaf surface

Fancy leaved geraniums are zonal geraniums with fancier leaves, edged or banded by colours such as yellow, white, burgundy or coral.

Ivy geraniums have ivy-like leaves and a trailing habit, which makes them perfect for planting in window boxes and hanging baskets. The trailing types will also tolerate a fair amount of shade. Flowers colours range from white through vibrant and pastel shades of pink to red and purple.

Regal geranium species have numerous varieties with the largest flowers found among house geraniums, and bloom prolifically. Individual flowers are pansy-like in shape, variant in colour, and the two upper petals are usually blotched in a darker shade. The large frilly flowers are available in white orange, purple, red, and burgundy. They thrive in part shade and can grow quite tall.

Scented geranium types are gown primarily for their aromatic leaves with scents such as citrus, apple, rose or mint. These plants have smaller, less showy flowers than the other types. Citrus-scented cultivars, such as 'Citronella' are often sold as mosquito repellent plants.

Modern geranium hybrids have been brought to a high standard of perfection with beautiful leaf colours and long lasting blooms, combined with ease of culture and propagation.

These rewarding and free flowering plants deserve a place in every garden. In fact, these versatile plants are perfect for any sunny spot that calls for a splash of vibrant colour throughout the season.

They look good in a bed all by themselves, or mixed in with other annuals or perennials. They also make attractive edging plants for the flower garden.

They thrive in pots and remain popular mainstays in containers, hanging baskets and window boxes, mixing beautifully with flowering annuals.

Members can click here to read more about Pelargoniums

CitrusCitrus do need quite a bit of tender loving care, but will reward you with bumper crops if their needs are met; and choosing different varies, will provide you with fresh citrus for up to nine months a year.

The genus Citrus is native to south-east Asia, occurring from northern India to China, and south through Malaysia, the East Indies and the Philippines, with records of domestication going back to around 500 BC.

Citrus form small, compact evergreen trees, and are usually slow growing. With the exception of lemons, which flower up to four times per year, most citrus varieties flower in spring. The buds appear in early August, and by early October the last petals fall, leaving the tiny fruitlets behind.

A mature citrus tree can produce hundreds of thousands of blossoms, yet only about two percent of these will result in edible fruit. This heavy blossom production is nature's way of assuring that insects, attracted by the tree's fragrance, pollinate the maximum number of flowers.

Seventy to eighty percent of the flowers will drop during and immediately following bloom. A second drop of small pea-sized fruits a couple of weeks after blooming will occur - this is perfectly natural.

Lemon Dwarf 'Eureka'Citrus make the perfect evergreen shade tree and also grow beautifully in pots in courtyards or on balconies. Any variety can be grown in a tub, providing the container is a decent size. Generally, Kumquats and Calamondins are very well-suited to tub-culture, as are Meyer Lemons and Limes.

With the proper care, good cultural practices, and a favourable rootstock, a citrus tree is capable of producing fruit in excess of 50 years. One such example is the original Washington Navel orange brought first from Brazil to Washington D.C. and then to California in 1873. One hundred years later it was still alive and producing fruit.

Depending on the variety, a mature citrus tree is capable of producing up to 1 000 pounds of fruit per season. Maximum yields will vary according to the variety grown, weather conditions, cultural care, the age of the tree, and many other factors.

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Citrus Problems:

Yellow Leaves

It is not uncommon for citrus leaves to go yellow during winter or after a heavy cropping of fruit and this can be corrected in spring with fertilisation. Yellowing can also occur if the ground is too wet and the drainage is not excellent.

Mineral deficiencies can also cause a yellowing and mottling of the foliage and it is usually a deficiency of iron, zinc, magnesium or manganese that is causing the problem.

Trelmix, a trace element solution which promotes growth and corrects chlorosis (yellowing), blotching and stunting where these are due to trace element deficiencies can be applied.

Zinc deficiency

Zinc deficiency shows a fishbone-like pattern on the leaves with a yellowing between the leaf veins. Sandy soils may need additional zinc and red sandy soil may need potassium.

Click here to see Google images of Zinc deficiency in Citrus

Manganese deficiency

Manganese deficiency cause yellow blotches between the leaf veins. It is fairly common, especially in autumn. The leaves will go yellow with a green V-shaped area at the base leaf.

Click here to see Google images of Manganese deficiency in Citrus

To correct this give a mature tree 2,5kg of magnesium sulphate (Epson Salts) and for a young tree about 250g.

Iron deficiency.

Citrus may exhibit Iron deficiency in the early spring. Usually the deficiency clears up as the soil warms up. If it does not, a soil application of iron chelate should sort out the problem.

Clay soils usually contain plenty of iron, but where iron deficiency does occur, do not use fertilizers which contain phosphorous because high phosphorous aggravates iron and zinc deficiency in high pH (alkaline) soils.

Click here to see Google images of Iron deficiency in Citrus

Nitrogen:

Mature citrus trees should receive enough nitrogen to provide for good but not excessive leaf growth.

Calamondin OrangeUse Pesticides & Fungicides Responsibly

Even if you have a healthy citrus tree which is planted in the correct position and soil, and is feed and water correctly, it may still succumb to diseases. Insects also occasionally trouble citrus trees in home gardens and may require spraying, but rarely will these pests render the fruit inedible or seriously threaten the health of the plant.

The use of pesticides in the home garden should be restricted to a minimum and whenever possible organic products should be used. There is a natural balance in nature between pests and their natural predators, and when harsh pesticides are used continuously this balance is disturbed, and a vicious cycle is created; resulting in the trees having to be sprayed all the time. Apart from the damage caused to the environment, the cost factor can also be enormous.

If you do have spray, always use organic products and follow the dilution rates and spraying times meticulously. Always add a wetter/sticker to the spray mixture when spraying citrus trees, as their leaves are very glossy and a sticker helps the spray stick to the leaves.

Good cultural practices

Good, clean cultural practices will help to keep insects and diseases to a minimum and citrus can easily be grown organically.

Find out which citrus varieties grow best in your area

The first step toward successfully growing citrus trees is to take the time to find out which varieties grow best in your area and to purchase them from a reputable nursery.

Citrus trees are subtropical to tropical in nature and they suffer severe damage or even death because of freezing temperatures. However, several types of citrus have sufficient cold-hardiness to sustain some freezing conditions, particularly as mature trees.

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Select a healthy tree

The tree you select should have healthy, deep green leaves, the trunk should be straight and the tree should be able to support itself without a stake.

Young grafted trees will start producing fruit when still very young, but it is best to remove all fruit until the trees are more mature. Fruiting takes a lot of energy from the young tree and by removing it, the plant can conserve energy, allowing it to adapt to its new environment and grow new roots and leaves.

Lime Sweet Dwarf Citrus Pests

Ants:

The brown house ant and the pugnacious ant are the one of the most important insects to control near citrus trees, because they protect and 'farm' certain insects like scale and aphids, for the honeydew they secrete. Ant nests, particularly those of the pugnacious ant, if present underneath or near the trees, must be treated immediately.

Ludwigs Insect Spray is a broad spectrum insecticide that contains garlic juice, canola oil and natural pyrethrum. It is certified to control ants and many other garden insects. Canola oil kills small-bodied insects on contact by means of suffocation, and garlic keeps insects away from plants. Pyrethrum has a stomach poison activity of about 24 hours. This formulation has a very low toxicity to mammals, with no secondary poisoning. It is however, toxic to fish and moderately toxic to bees. Edible crops can be harvested 48 hours after applying.

Scale Insects:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Scale

There are many types of hard (armoured) and soft scale insects, and they can be various colours, like brown, red, purple, grey, white,  green etc.

Pernicious and red scale, as well as soft brown scale are a common problems on citrus as well as many other garden plants, and can be present all year round. A sure sign that you have scale is if there are ants running up and down the branches.

Young scales are mobile crawlers and adult males have tiny wings, making them more mobile than the females. Mostly, the adults attach themselves to the bark, leaves and fruit, sucking out the plant sap through their needle-like mouthparts. Scale insects generally excrete honeydew, on which a fungus called sooty mould grows. Sooty mould is black and looks worse than it really is, and doesn't hurt the leaves or fruit.

Scale insects are 'farmed' by ants for their sugary excretions, and in return, the ants protect the scale from their natural predators like; ladybirds and their larvae, lacewings and predatory thrips.

Many types of scale are controlled satisfactorily by their natural enemies, provided ants are kept out of the trees, get rid of the ants around your trees and the sooty mould and the scale will disappear.

Severe infestations can cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop and may kill young trees. It will cause die-back of the twigs and can kill entire branches on more mature trees.

To control bad infestations, remove all badly infested branches completely in winter and burn them. The best time to spray for scale is also in winter but mineral oils can be sprayed in summer, as long they are applied during the coolest part of the day. Mineral oils like Oleum work the best, killing most species of scale on contact. If infestations are very severe you should apply three applications within 10 days, ensuring full coverage of the tree.

Products containing Canola oil, like Margaret Roberts Insecticide will also suffocate scale. Ludwigs Insect Spray is a broad spectrum insecticide that contains garlic juice, canola oil and natural pyrethrum. It is certified to control many garden insects. Canola oil kills small-bodied insects on contact and garlic keeps insects away from plants. Pyrethrum has a stomach poison activity of about 24 hours. This formulation has a very low toxicity to mammals, with no secondary poisoning. It is however, toxic to fish and moderately toxic to bees. Edible crops can be harvested 48 hours after applying.

Brown Citrus Aphid:

Click here to see Google images of Brown Citrus Aphid

Aphids are soft-bodied insects that suck the sap from plants and can therefore spread viral diseases from one plant to another. Young aphids are wingless and adults can be winged or wingless. The various species vary in colour and can be dark brown, light and dark green, red-brown, pale yellow, grey and black.

The aphids secrete honeydew which attracts ants and other insects. Ants farm the aphids for the honeydew, and in return, protect the aphids from their natural predators such as ladybirds, parasitic wasps and praying mantis. Aphids love fresh new plant growth and can cause distorted and malformed growth, and stunting of the plants growth. Black sooty mould is a fungus that grows on the honeydew, but this fungus will not damage the leaves or fruit. Get rid of the aphids and ants and the mould will disappear.

Margaret Robert's Organic insecticide controls small-bodied insects and is authorised for use in organic agriculture. It contains garlic juiced extract and canola oil and is used to control aphids and many other garden insects. Canola oil kills small-bodied insects on contact by means of suffocation, and garlic keeps insects away from plants.

It has a low impact on bigger bodied beneficial insects and natural predators and the product is harmless to fish, birds, wildlife, pets and humans. However, never allow oil formulations to form a layer over water surfaces as huge quantities of any oil will cut off the oxygen supply to aquatic organisms, resulting in harm to aquatic life like fish and frogs. No harmful toxic residues remain in the environment for prolonged periods and edible crops can be harvested within 24 hours.

Citrus Thrips:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Thrips

Severe attacks by thrips will cause young shoots and leaves to become thickened and distorted, and developing shoots may turn black and fall off. During development, the peels of young citrus fruit can also be blemished by citrus thrips. This mostly starts from the stem end and may spread downwards, extending over the rest of the fruit, but does not, however, affect the eating quality of the fruit.

Ludwigs Insect Spray is a broad spectrum insecticide that contains garlic juice, canola oil and natural pyrethrum. It is certified to control thrips as well as many other garden insects. Canola oil kills small-bodied insects on contact by means of suffocation, and garlic keeps insects away from plants. Pyrethrum has a stomach poison activity of about 24 hours. This formulation has a very low toxicity to mammals, with no secondary poisoning. It is however, toxic to fish and moderately toxic to bees. Edible crops can be harvested 48 hours after applying.

Citrus Psylla:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Psylla

Psylla causes unsightly bumps on the leaves, especially the fresh young leaves, and is caused by citrus gall wasps. They are the transmitter of a major citrus disease known as greening. Citrus trees have three growth flushes a year: one in August/September, followed by another in November/December and the last during February/March. Lemons are the exception, forming new leaves throughout the year. It is during these flushes that the trees are susceptible to psylla infestation.

The female citrus gall wasp lays discernible orange-yellow eggs on the edges of the young leaves. When the eggs hatch, the young nymphs move to the underside of the leaves and establish themselves to feed, causing pock-like malformations on the leaves.

Control of the pest must be aimed at destroying the nymphs as soon as possible after they have hatched. Because all the eggs do not hatch at once, it is essential to use a spray with a fairly long residual action and to spray regularly - as subscribed on the bottle. Check your trees regularly for the eggs and begin spraying immediately, ensuring that all the leaves are thoroughly covered.

For citrus psylla use organic sprays such as Biogrow Pyrol, Biogrow Bioneem, or a homemade Neem Oil and soap solution. Neem-based products work by disrupting the insect's life cycle and can be used as a preventative, while Pyrol and soap solutions provide contact killing by suffocation and direct contact. For best results, apply to the entire tree, especially the underside of leaves, and reapply as needed to control the pest's life cycle.

Citrus Leaf Miner:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Leaf Miner

Leaf miner attacks can occur at any time of the year, especially in warm and humid regions, causing the leaves to curl and go brown, with distorted twisted new growth, and squiggly lines in the leaves. This pest can really make the trees look unsightly. There are several types of leaf miner and tiny moths, beetles or flies are the adult stage. Damage to plants is done at the larval stage, when they feed within the leaves, and heavy infestations will affect yields.

Leaf miners need to be controlled, especially in young trees by spraying every time they put out a new flush of leaves. The insects can be found on weeds, flowers and vegetables, so keep the ground around your trees weed- free. The best control is obtained when infestations are detected at an early stage.

Physically removing infected leaves will  help control larvae growing inside the leaves, and spraying with a contact poison containing Canola oil or natural Pyrethrins will control the adults, if sprayed weekly.

Ludwigs Insect Spray is a broad spectrum insecticide that contains garlic juice, canola oil and natural pyrethrum. It is certified to control many garden insects. Canola oil kills small-bodied insects on contact and garlic keeps insects away from plants. Pyrethrum has a stomach poison activity of about 24 hours. This formulation has a very low toxicity to mammals, with no secondary poisoning. It is however, toxic to fish and moderately toxic to bees. Edible crops can be harvested 48 hours after applying.

Citrus Mealybugs:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Mealybugs

Citrus mealy bugs are a common garden pest, and there are many mealybug species. They are small white, oval insects that are covered in mealy waxy threads, and can be found on the undersides of the leaves, the leaf joints, and crevices, where they are not easily noticeable. They suck the sap of plants and can therefore transmit viruses. If infestations are severe, they can cause severe wilting of the soft, new shoots, leaf discolouration and severe leaf drop, yellow spots may develop on citrus fruits. 

The sweet honeydew they secrete will cause sooty mould to grow on their secretions. Sooty mould looks worse than it really is and doesn't hurt the leaves or fruit. Mealy bugs are protected and 'farmed' by ants for these sugary excretions. If you get rid of the ants, so that the natural predators of mealy bugs can help control their populations, the mealybugs and the sooty mould will disappear.

Natural predators of mealybugs are ladybirds, parasitic wasps, lacewings and small birds. Mealbug infestations can occur at any time of the year and winter is an ideal time for them to breed in sheltered areas of the garden. Spring and late summer are the best months to spray for control because their natural predators may also be affected by sprays and they are not as active in the cooler months.

Mealybugs can be treated with the same pesticides as for scale and aphids. White mineral oils like Oleum and organic insecticides containing canola oil and natural pyrethrins are effective, suffocating the insects on contact. Ludwigs Insect Spray is a broad spectrum insecticide that contains garlic juice, canola oil and natural pyrethrum. It is certified to control many garden insects. Canola oil kills small-bodied insects on contact and garlic keeps insects away from plants. Pyrethrum has a stomach poison activity of about 24 hours. This formulation has a very low toxicity to mammals, with no secondary poisoning. It is however, toxic to fish and moderately toxic to bees. Edible crops can be harvested 48 hours after applying.

Fruit Flies:

Click here to see Google images of Fruit Flies

Fruit flies attack many species of fruiting plants and cause post-harvest decay on fruit. Fruit flies look like a small housefly and the clear wings have orange and brown patterns. When they rest on fruit the wings are usually horizontal. In South Africa the most common species are the Mediterranean and Natal Fruit fly. Infestations can occur all year round but seem to peak from January to March. They sting the fruit and lay their eggs just below the surface, right after the blossoms have fallen, as well as when the fruit is ripening.

The eggs hatch within three days and the small white maggots begin feeding. Signs of fruit fly infestation will show as a sticky gum oozing out of the still green fruit. After a few weeks the fruit is entirely rotten and falls to the ground. The maggots then burrow into the soil to pupate. Within two weeks a new generation of fruit fly emerges and a new cycle begins.

There are several eco friendly ways to combat this destructive cycle. In May or June brush the tree trunks and any large branches of your fruit trees with a medium hard brush to remove hibernating insects. Remove all mulch and fallen debris from the ground and burn it. In spring, when your trees start to bloom, place a lining of frost cover/ bidum/weed guard on the ground around your trees. This will prevent mature fruit fly, that have survived the winter in the soil, from emerging from the ground.

Once 80% of the blossoms have fallen from your tree you can start spraying with wormwood and garlic or a quassia spray every week. Spray the entire tree as well as the ground around it. Try to do this in the early evening when the bees are in their hives.

Organic formulations like Ludwigs Insect Spray contain pyrethrins and can also be applied every 2 weeks. Baited traps can also be hung in the trees.Continually remove any fruit that appears to be stung and keep good hygiene on the ground.

Orange Dog Caterpillars:

Click here to see Google images of Orange Dog Caterpillars

These can sometimes become a problem in the garden, especially on immature trees, because the larvae feed mainly on the young leaves. The damage caused is the same as for any leaf-eating caterpillars, but seldom will the larvae reach epidemic proportions and a few caterpillars on mature trees will not affect the health of the trees.

The culprit is a beautiful butterfly called the citrus swallowtail, which emerges in spring. It has large wings with bright yellow and black markings, with the distinctive swallowtail at their bases. The spiny backs of the young larvae are black with a white mark. As the larvae mature they become smoother and turn green, with a diagonal black stripe on both sides of the back, and black stripes across the head.  They can reach 40mm long and larvae can be present from late spring to autumn. 

If only a few are present, they can be collected by hand or you can spray with Margaret Roberts Biological Caterpillar Insecticide, which is a natural product that will control orange dog caterpillars as well as many other garden insects. It contains no toxic residues and is harmless to bees, birds, fish, pets, wildlife, beneficial insects and natural predators. It can cause harm to the young larvae of butterfly species, but has no effect on adult butterflies. It is safe to use on edible crops and they can be harvested directly after application.

Kumquat 'Meiwa'Citrus Diseases:

When it comes to fungal diseases, prevention is always better than cure. Prevention starts with good and clean cultural practices.
Ensure that your soil has perfect drainage and plant your citrus at the correct depth, as planting too deep can be lethal. Keep the area around your trees clean and free of weeds, plant debris and rotting fallen fruits. Sterilise all pruning equipment before pruning. These practices will go a long way in keeping your trees healthy.

Products like Biogrow Phyta, provides a potent, dual-purpose nutrient solution, providing your plants with essential elements to boost their vitality and protect against diseases.

Biogrow Phyta is a potent, dual-purpose nutrient solution that provides your plants with essential elements to boost their vitality and protect against diseases.

Bio-Tricho is another Natural Biological Fungicide consisting of philosphere micro-organisms specifically for controlling Botrytis and root diseases such as Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, Pythium, Fusarium, etc. as a micro parasite it feeds on damaging plant pathogenes.

To prevent fungal diseases like black spot scab and blossom-end rot in South Africa, organic options are limited, with copper-based fungicides like Ludwig’s Copper Count and Biogrow Copper Soap being the most common and recommended option for control.

Sooty Mould:

Click here to see Google images of Sooty Mould on Citrus

This fungus looks worse than it really is and doesn't hurt the leaves or fruit. This fungus grows on the sugary deposits made by scale insects, aphids and mealybugs, which are protected and farmed for their sugary excretions, by ants. Get rid of the ants and the mould will disappear.

Citrus Black Spot:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Black Spot

This is common in tropical to subtropical regions. This fungal disease affects many garden plants and is most noticeable on roses if the humidity is high and during prolonged wet weather, especially in autumn. Infection shows on the leaves by the appearance of dark brown to black spots, followed by a yellow radiance around the edges and can result in leaf drop.

Scab:

Click here to see Google images of Citrus Scab

This fungus that can affect the leaves, twigs, and fruit, of susceptible citrus varieties. It can be particularly severe on lemon trees and also occurs on minneola, tangelos and grapefruit, but rarely on sweet oranges. The symptoms are a corky roughness on the leaves and young twigs. The disease starts as small, pale orange, roughly circular, elevated spots that develop well-defined protuberances on one side of the leaf, often with a conical depression on the opposite side. The tops of these wart-like growths usually become covered with a scabby, corky tissue, and the infected spots can often run together, covering large areas. The leaves of badly infected plants become crinkled and distorted and the twigs will develop small masses of similar corky outgrowths on the surfaces.

Scab starts on the fruit by forming irregular scabby spots or caked masses that start off cream to pale yellow and develop to a dull olive-grey with age. Bad infections will cause the fruit to become misshapen, with wart-like or conical growths extending from the surface. On grapefruit the infected areas tend to flatten out, resembling wind scar injury.

The spores are spread by rainfall, heavy dew, irrigation systems, and to some extent by wind. Warm, wet summer weather is ideal for spore germination, when the temperatures reach 24 to 28°C.

To control scab two to three applications of fungicide need to be applied. Citrus scab is similar to apple and pear scab and is treated in the same way. The trees should be sprayed in early spring when the first flush of new leaves is only a few centimetres long. The second application is made at petal fall, and the last one is applied about 3 weeks later.

Scab usually becomes less of a problem as the trees grow older, but routine spraying may often continue to be necessary, particularly on the more susceptible varieties.

Blossom-end Rot:

Click here to see Google images Blossom-end Rot on Citrus

Blossom end rot causes a brown patch of rot on end on the ripened fruit where the blossoms were attached. 

Phytophthora:

Click here to see Google images Phytophthora on Citrus

This is a serious disease that affects citrus. It affects the lower trunk and/or root system of the plant. If this fungus is present in your soil, it can cause infection and every time the tree is watered these pathogens can silently invade the roots and lower trunk tissues. This disease is most active when the soil is not allowed to dry out sufficiently between watering, and especially if the lower trunk area is the last part to dry out.

Foot Rot:

Click here to see Google images Foot Rot on Citrus

Foot rot is a fungal disease present in many South African soils. Both sour orange and trifoliate orange rootstocks have some resistance to the disease, so it is not a problem unless the tree is planted too low and the bud union is exposed to the soil or is standing in water.

Tristeza:

Click here to see Google images Tristeza on Citrus

This is a virus disease that kills citrus trees quickly, particularly those growing on sour orange rootstock.

Greening:

Click here to see Google images Greening on Citrus

Greening is prevalent in the relatively cooler, high-lying areas (above 600m). Typical symptoms are yellowing of the leaves and malformed fruit. One side of the fruit does not develop normally and remains smaller, resulting in asymmetrical fruit. The smaller side remains greenish while the rest of the fruit turns orange.

The disease is caused by a bacterium for which no chemical treatment is available. It is transmitted by psylla (see Citrus psylla). As greening is usually localised within one or two branches of the tree, it is advisable to completely cut out the infected branches. Saw them off as close to the trunk as possible. If the entire tree is affected, it would be better to remove and replace it.

Southern Masked Weaver Picture courtesy Bernard DUPONT from flickrAttracting birds to the garden is one of nature’s delights, and getting to know the various species, each with their own distinct personalities, is great fun for the whole family. And you will be surprised at how quickly the birds find their favourite treats.

Because of the continual expansion of our urban areas into the natural environment, city gardens, parks and open areas have become vital in sustaining wildlife; and with a bit of planning it’s possible to create a beautiful and sustainable sanctuary for birds and other wildlife in our suburban gardens.

Bird feeding is a wonderful activity to share with the whole family. Kids will love to help fill the feeders and be on the lookout for new bird visitors. This is a perfect opportunity to teach them about the fascinating world of birds, and a simple, enjoyable way to bring the family together to connect with nature.

When not to feed the birds

Whilst bird feeders allow us the enjoyment of viewing birds at close range in our gardens, the supplementary feeding of birds should always be done responsibly and be limited to urban areas.

As nature-lovers, we need to be mindful that the misuse of feeders may negatively affect birds, and even in urban settings the use of bird feeders should only provide birds with supplementary feeding, and not allowing them to become dependent on your food supply, and replacing the need for them to find their own food sources.

If you live in rural areas, or close to greenbelts or other natural wildlife areas of the country, it is not advised to feed the birds at all, as there is evidence to suggest that supplementary feeding may at times adversely influence bird behaviour, and long term supplementary feeding can influence bird populations and distributions.

Olive Thrush Picture courtesy Bernard DUPONT from flickrHowever, in times of extreme drought or after major fires we are encouraged to supply food and water to support and to ensure the survival of natural populations

In these regions it is recommended to rather plant indigenous plants as natural food sources.

Planting indigenous shrubs and trees to attract birds

Creating a garden where birds feel welcome and well-fed is incredibly rewarding, and the best way of supplying their needs is to plant indigenous shrubs and trees to attract them.  If you have sufficient space, you can supply them with fruiting plants or those which produce seeds birds love to eat. Flowering plants rich in nectar will attract nectar eating birds like magnets, and both flowering and fruiting plants will also attract insects, which in turn will attract insect eating birds.

In my articles section under “Wildlife in the Garden” you will find articles and plant lists for attracting birds and other kinds of wildlife to the garden. Members can click here to read more. 

Square House FeederIf space is limited feeders play an important role in attracting birds

Even if you only have a small balcony you could find a space to hang a small bird feeder or even a bird seed bell. If you’re really short on covered space out of the rain, a wall seed feeder is ideal, and a double bird feeder can be utilised to provide two types of food. Adding a hanging bird bath for water, a few potted plants and a seat, will create a peaceful little space to retreat too. You’ll be surprised how quickly our feathered friends learn to trust you, feeding within arms-reach, its magic!

Many common garden birds like the Cape Robin and Southern Masked-Weaver will visit seed feeders, and often gardeners will use two seed feeders - a small feeder for smaller birds and a larger one for larger birds and pigeons.

Fresh bird seed is the best, and depending on the weather, seed can last outside for up to two weeks.

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Foods that cater to the different bird species

Different birds have different tastes, so to maximise bird visits, offer a mix of foods that caters to the different species. Birds’ diets can also shift with the seasons, impacting what they eat. Knowing what birds eat seasonally or year-round can enhance your garden’s bird appeal.

Birds require a balanced diet, including macronutrients (proteins, fats, and carbohydrates) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals). Their dietary needs vary depending on their species and life stage, such as growth, reproduction, or migration.

Birds should be provided with natural and healthy sources of food such as seeds, freshly chopped fruit and vegetables, suet, meal worms and bone meal.

Understanding their diets will go a long way in knowing what and when to provide birds what they naturally require to be in good health.

WBT3RPeanut butter

Peanut butter is a good high-fat, high-protein food, and as long as you offer it with proper care, it's safe to feed to wild birds.

In South Africa, a variety of birds will readily consume peanut butter or fresh peanuts. Use raw peanuts, not roasted, and especially not salted.

Larger birds like Crows and Blue Jays are known to eat nuts, preferring whole nuts. Blue Jays are omnivores and enjoy a varied diet that includes insects, seeds, nuts, fruits, and even small animals. Peanuts are a favourite, and they also consume acorns and other nuts, as their strong bills allow them to crack open the shells.

Several small birds also enjoy eating nuts. Weavers, including Southern Masked Weavers, and Finches, such as Bronze Mannikins are known to including nuts in their diet. Even Barbets who primarily consume fruits and insects have been observed eating nuts.

The easiest way to offer peanut butter to smaller birds is in a special peanut butter treat feeder, and for larger birds a mesh, whole peanut holder works best.

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Nectar

South Africa has many different species of nectar-loving birds, like Gurney's Sugarbird and the Cape Sugarbird, as well as the White-bellied, Malachite and Amethyst Sunbirds, the Cape Glossy Starling and Cape White-Eye.

Many birds like the Bronze Mannikin, Crested Barbet, the Southern Masked Weaver, and the Dark-capped Bulbul prefer a variety of foods including seeds, plant material, suet, insects and also nectar.

Bird-pollinated plants in South Africa have a 10-20% solution of either sucrose or glucose and fructose, or a mix of the three; therefore nectar feeders need only have a 10-20% sucrose (table sugar) solution.

Seed Slabs & HolderSeed & Suet

Seed feeders are perfect for a variety of wild birds like Cape Sparrows, Red-headed Finches, Bronze Mannikins, and Cape Canaries.

The larger feeders are best for bigger birds and the smaller ones will hopefully keep larger garden birds like pigeons away. Our “Go away Pigeon Bird Feeder” allows smaller birds to feed in peace without being harassed by pigeons.

Many seed eaters will appreciate a simple bird seed blend in your feeder, but many seed eaters like the sociable little Cape Sparrow also love suet, and a double or multipurpose bird feeder with a seed and a suet cake, is a simple way to invite them into your garden.

Suet and mealworms are wonderful for attracting high-energy insect-loving birds like the Crested Barbet, Southern Masked Weaver, and the Olive Thrush, or Fiscal Shrike. Suet is really appreciated during the cold winter months when insects are scarce.

Our Bird Basket Feeder can hold a Suet Slab and various other forms of food.

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Fruit Bird FeederFruit

Many birds, but especially fruit-eaters like Barbets, Bulbuls, Weavers and the Green Wood Hoopoe appreciate sliced apples, bananas, or soft veggies.

Fresh fruits are a summer favourite when natural fruit sources are in abundance, but fruit eaters will welcome some fresh fruit during the winter months.

The beautiful Blue Waxbill enjoys mixed seeds, suet, insects, and fruit, and the Red-faced Mousebird enjoys plant material, fruit, and also some nectar. Soft fruits like bananas or apples will appeal to them.

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What foods to avoid

For nectar feeders do not use artificial sugar products and artificial colourants, especially xylitol which cannot be digested by birds and has been linked to the sudden death of nectar-feeding birds.

Do not use honey, as it is a complex sugar which birds do not naturally eat.

Additives like Bovril, Marmite, or any other protein supplement are a no-no, as are foods like cheese, milk and bread, which can be harmful as birds are lactose intolerant, and bread offers little nutritional value and may even harm them.

Do not use pesticides or chemical fertilisers

If you want to attract birds and other wildlife to the garden it is vital that you do not use chemical pesticides or fertilisers which could be hazardous to birds and insects.

Placing your bird feeder

When it comes to placing your bird feeder, naturally you would like to put it where you can enjoy watching the birds easily, but remember birds like to feel secure while they eat or drink, so try to hang your feeder in trees or close to shrubbery which will give them a quick escape if they sense danger. Make sure that they high enough to protect the birds from attacks by ground predators, such as domestic cats.

Some commercial bird feeders can be mounted to walls but these must also be kept high enough for the birds to feel safe.  

If possible, site your bird feeder where it is protected from heavy rainfall.

Hanging Bird BathProvide Fresh Water

Water is essential and if you don’t have space for a traditional bird bath, hanging bird baths will work just as well. A double bird feeder can be used to supply both water and food.

Bird baths should also be placed in safe and secluded places in the garden, and should be cleaned out regularly.

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Maintaining your bird feeder and bird bath

If possible, hang your bird feeder under a tree or in a sheltered spot, keeping it out of direct rain. If it is out in the open, after heavy rain or high humidity, check your feeder for any clumping or mould.

To keep birds healthy you will need to clean and disinfect your feeder and bird bath regularly to ensure that no old or mouldy food remains.

Have you just bought your first home and the budget for the garden is very limited, or perhaps you are just tired of the way your garden looks and want a fresh new look, but are concerned about expenses? If so, it is comforting to know that you can do it yourself - landscape design is not that difficult, as long as you have patience and a plan in hand!

Chilli Peppers Image by MiZie from PixabayFrom mild and fruity to fiery hot, the different types of chillies available to gardeners today caters for all palettes. Jalapeno, Tabasco, Cayenne, and Habanero are just some of the varieties you may know and love, but there’s a world of chillies out there to be discovered.

How is the pungency of chillies measured?

The pungency of chillies is generally expressed in Scoville Heat Units (SHU), with the scale ranging from 0 to over 2 million! However, this is a somewhat subjective measurement because to determine the heat level, volunteers are given samples of chillies which are subsequently diluted with water until pungency can no longer be detected. Unfortunately such tests are not very reliable as a degree of tolerance is quickly developed.

More recently a scientific method has been devised, known as the “High-performance Liquid Chromatography test (HPLC), which measures the type and quantity of capsaicinoids present in the sample to measure the pungency of chillies. Capsaicinoids are a group of chemical compounds found in chilli peppers known for their pungent and spicy taste. They are responsible for the characteristic sensation of heat when hot peppers are consumed.

Bear in mind though that Scoville Heat Units have quite a wide heat range within a species and especially when you start dealing with specific cultivars.

For example, the Trinidad Maruga Scorpion, one of the hottest peppers in the world, rates 800 000 to over 1 300 000 Scoville Heat units (SKU). As a member of Capsicum chinense, it shares characteristics with other renowned peppers like the Carolina Reaper which has a broad SHU range between 1 400,000 to 2 200,000 Scoville units, so only use SHU’s as a guide.

There are four main species of chilli which are the most well-known

It is estimated that there are around 4 000 different types of chilli peppers in the world, and Sweet Peppers and Chilli Peppers both belong to the genus Capsicum, which contains more than 35 species. The three most well-known species are: Capsicum annuum, Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum and Capsicum pubescens.

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Capsicum annuum:

Capsicum annuum is the most common, widespread and economically important species of chilli pepper, and includes both mild varieties like Sweet Bell Peppers and Pepadew, and the fiery hot Tepin Chilli. Other popular varieties include:  Poblano, Cayenne, Pimiento, Paprika, Jalapeno, and Serrano peppers.

Archaeological and genetic evidence indicates that the wild ancestors of Capsicum annuum evolved in northern South America. Today, this species has spread across the world and is widely cultivated, not only for its culinary applications, but also for its health benefits, and ornamental value in the garden.

This species has been modified through breeding for certain traits, which allows the fruits be used in multiple applications. These include in food, traditional medicine, cosmetics, and even in self-defence pepper spray.

The plant produces fruits of many colours including red, green, and yellow, often with a pungent taste.

Over the years thousands of varieties and cultivars have emerged, and the fruits of this species are now integral ingredients in the cuisines of many countries worldwide.

Capsicum chinense

The scientific species name Capsicum chinense "Chinese capsicum" is misleading as all Capsicum species originated in the New World, and Capsicum chinense, commonly known as a "habanero-type pepper", is native to the Americas.

In terms of physical appearance, Capsicum chinense has a broad range of variation. Some plants, such as the habanero, grow into small, compact bushes, while others are more typical of the species, growing bushy and upright.

The peppers themselves also vary greatly in appearance. Some peppers are elongated with a lantern, bonnet or bell shape. Others are small and rounded, similar to the look of birdshot or pellets. The colour of the fruit also varies greatly and can be red, orange, yellow, brown or purple. The plants are popular with gardeners for the ornamental value of their bright fruits. 

The varieties are well known for their unique flavours and, in many cases, exceptional heat. The hottest peppers in the world are members of this species, with Pepper X scoring 2.69 million Scoville Heat Units in 2023 to become the hottest chilli pepper in the world.

Perhaps the most unique characteristic of this particular species is the distinct aroma given off by these chillies. Even the hottest give off a sweet and fruity aroma, which is most often described as being similar to that of an apricot.

Capsicum chinense and its varieties have been used for millennia in Yucatán and Caribbean-style cooking. Because of their significant amount of heat they are cooked and used mainly in stews and sauces, as well as marinades for meats and chicken.

Popular and well-known Capsicum chinense varieties include: Pepper X, 7 Pot, Bhut Jolokia, Fatalii, Habanero, Carolina Reaper, Scotch Bonnet, and Trinidad Scorpion.

Capsicum baccatum

This species has its origins in Peru and southern Bolivia, and it is commonly referred to as” Ají”, which translates to “chilli pepper” in Spanish, therefore, many of the Capsicum baccatum varieties are preceded by the word ají, for example Ají Amarillo.

They are famous for their strangely shaped fruits and the plants are bred and sold for their ornamental value. Literally translated, “baccatum” means berry-like. This is one of the best ways to differentiate this Capsicum variety from others, as the pods have a physical appearance that is, if not quite like that of a berry, are certainly more berry-like than others. The pods of this Capsicum are smallish and squat, and as they mature they become wrinkled and display vibrant shades of orange, yellow and red.

The peppers of this species also tend to be very pungent, and breeding practices have led to thousands of different varieties, ranging widely in size, shape, colour, heat and flavour.

Even in the hottest peppers of this species, there’s a taste that is surprisingly sweet, creating an intriguing overall flavour that has berry-like undertones, with some having a lovely citrusy or fruity flavour.

Chilli Amarillo is one of the essential ingredients of Peruvian and Bolivian cuisines where it is used in many dishes, sauces, and as a condiment. In Peru, the chillies are mostly used fresh, and in Bolivia they are generally dried and ground. In Peruvian cuisine chilli Amarillo, together with red onion and coriander is considered part of the 'Holy Trinity' that is used as a base to build flavour into soups, stews, sauces, and other dishes.

This species of chili pepper includes the following cultivars: Amarillo, Bishop's Crown, Lemon Drop, Brazilian Starfish, Peppadew and Piquanté.

Capsicum frutescens

Capsicum frutescens likely originated in South or Central America. It spread quickly throughout the tropical and subtropical regions in this area where it still grows wild today. Botanists are undecided whether this is an independent chilli species or not, as the wild Capsicum frutescens has genetic proximity to the cultivated pepper Capsicum chinense.

The fruits typically grow erect and are usually very small and pungent, starting out a pale yellow and maturing to a bright red, but can also be other colours.  Capsicum frutescens has a smaller variety of shapes compared to other Capsicum species and is a favourite to produce ornamental strains because of its large quantities of erect peppers growing in colourful ripening patterns.

The varieties of Capsicum frutescens are most commonly found in Southeast Asian dishes or added to spice mixtures. The best-known varieties of this species in South Africa are Tabasco, and Piri piri, also called African Bird's Eye or African Devil,

How hot is hot when it comes to chilli peppers

Many chillies have held the record for the "World's Hottest Chilli" by the Guinness World Records. For many years following the development of the Scoville Heat Unit Scale (SHU) the Orange Habanero was considered to be the hottest pepper in the world, ranging from 100 000 to 350 000 SHU. It was dethroned in 2011 by the Naga Viper, a very hot chilli developed in England, with a rating of 1 382,118 Scoville Heat Units (SHU).

Naga Viper was surpassed in 2017 by the Carolina Reaper with 1 400,000 to 2 200,000 SHU. The Carolina Reaper was dethroned in 2023 by the latest world record holder Pepper X which has a staggeringly high SHU of 2 693 million. Some individual Pepper X peppers have even been recorded to peak over 3 million!

Breeders constantly crossbreed subspecies in an attempt to create cultivars that will break new records on the Scoville scale.

Popular Chilli varieties in South Africa

Below is a selection of the very mellow, and the most fiery chilli peppers for South African gardeners from the four most popular species.

Let's review some of these popular peppers, according to their Scoville Heat Unit rankings.

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Chilli Peppadew Picture courtesy Luke from flickrPeppadew Chilli Pepper (Capsicum baccatum)

“Peppadew” is a registered trademark for the small round peppers discovered in South Africa in the early 1990’s. Although this pepper is sometimes described as a cross between a pepper and a tomato, this description is not botanically accurate, and refers only to the resemblance in colour and size between red peppers and cherry tomatoes.

Although Capsicum baccatum is rated between 30,000 and 50,000 on the SHU scale, the Peppadew only averages around 1 177.

Peppadews offer a unique combination of sweetness and soft heat, making them ideal for those who prefer milder flavours. These versatile peppers are commonly used in salads, sandwiches, pasta, and pizzas. They are often sold pickled or preserved and can be stuffed with cheese or used as toppings. Additionally, they enhance sauces and go well with meats, pairing especially well with Mediterranean and South African dishes.

Chilli Tabasco Picture courtesy Bernard DUPONT from flickrTabasco Chilli Pepper (Capsicum frutescens)

Originating in Mexico and named after the Mexican state of Tabasco, this chilli is known mainly for being the main ingredient in the spicy sauce it lends its name to. Tabasco rates 30 000 to 50 000 on the Scoville Heat Unit Scale (SHU), which is considered to be moderately hot.

Tabasco fruit, like all other members of the Capsicum frutescens species, remain erect on the bushes, rather than hanging down from their stems. The small and tapered fruits are around 2.5 to 5cm long, and are initially pale yellowish-green, turning yellow and orange before ripening to bright red.

The fruit has a thin, delicate skin and a juicy, crunchy texture, making it excellent eaten raw or cooked. The flavour of is described as fruity and slightly sweet, with a sharp, intense heat that is hot but not overpowering. It is used in many spicy condiments, such as salsa, marinades, and rubs. Additionally, the pepper is sometimes pickled or dried and ground into a powder for flavouring.

The tabasco plant has typically bushy, growing up to 90cm tall, and because it displays the immature yellow fruits at the same time as the mature red ones, this chilli plant is very ornamental in the garden and also on the plate.

Chilli Buena MulataBuena Mulata Chilli Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

This must be one of the most beautiful peppers to grow. It is a tall plant with dark green leaves, purple nodes, and purple flowers. It bears prolifically, and the slender pods can grow to between 10 and 20cm long, undergoing a remarkable colour transition, starting off a beautiful violet hue before morphing to orange-brown and maturing to red.

Buena Mulata peppers can be eaten at any stage of ripeness, and their flavour profile changes with the colour of the pods, from the mild, grassy taste of the unripe purple stage, shifting slowly to become the sweet spiciness of the red ones.

Buena Mulata peppers provide a comparable heat profile to cayenne peppers, scoring 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville Heat Units, but with a lovely sweetness. Compared to a jalapeno chilli which has 2 500 to 8 000 SHU’s, the Buena Mulata ranges from four to twenty times hotter than a jalapeno.

This places Buena Mulata peppers firmly in the medium range of pepper scale heat, but do not be fooled by its friendly colours - this is still a hot pepper. It has a sharp instant heat that hits the tip of your tongue immediately.

The Buena Mulata is fun to play with in the kitchen.  It’s hot enough to notice, but not so hot that you can’t use it daily, fresh, or dried. It’s great for pickling because the colours are fun, and its natural sweetness is a nice culinary foil to the tang of the vinegar in the pickling brine.

If you can take the heat, Buena Mulata peppers are great eaten fresh, and their broad colour palette makes festive-looking dishes like salads and salsas.

It’s also a great chilli for drying and crushing into chilli flakes or powder. Seeing it’s the same heat as cayenne, this pepper can be a fun, slightly sweeter take on cayenne.

Chilli UFO Purple UFO Purple Chilli Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

With its unique shape, small to medium sized fruits, and vibrant colour, the purple UFO makes an excellent, small and compact ornamental plant, adding a dash of colour and fun to any garden, balcony, or indoor plant collection. Its striking hue, combined with the peculiar flat, disc-like shape of the fruits which resemble a flying saucer or UFO, gives it its name, and can be a real conversation starter.

The purple UFO pepper goes through a fascinating transformation as it ages. It starts off as a vibrant violet or purple when it’s young, and as it ripens, the colour changes to a deep purple, almost black, before transitioning to a rich, ruby red when fully ripe. The interior of the fruit stays a purplish hue, even after it matures to red.

This is a medium-heat chilli, but it sits near the top of that range, roughly 30,000 to 45,000 Scoville Heat Units, and that’s nearly equal to the heat of a cayenne pepper. Compared to the Jalapeno pepper which sits at the lower end of medium heat on the Scoville scale (2,500 to 8,000 SHU), the Purple UFO is roughly 4 to 18 times hotter.

It’s slightly sweet and fruity flavour has a quick heat which can surprise you, but the spiciness doesn’t linger too long, making it a very versatile chilli pepper in the kitchen.

This pepper is excellent for pickling as the sweetness of the chilli works well with the tanginess of the brine. The vibrant purple colour adds a unique visual element to dishes, and its thick flesh makes it an excellent choice for stuffing. It is also cooked in stir-fries and sauces, and added fresh in salads, salsas, and sandwiches.  While these chilies are flavourful raw, roasting them brings out their natural sweetness which can be used as a base for various dishes to add a spicy kick. The purple UFO can also be dried and flaked or ground into a powder, for use in taco seasoning, chilli powder, or other spice blends.

Chilli Cubanelle Cubanelle Chilli Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

This sweet and tangy pepper is believed by the majority of experts to have first been cultivated in Italy, but its origins are mostly unknown with a few experts tracing it back to Cuba.

This sweet and tangy pepper has long and slender fruits which start out green and turn yellow or red as they mature. Their smooth, slightly waxy skin contributes to their appeal. Cubanelle peppers have a very mild heat, ranging 100 to 1,000 Scoville Heat Units.

The peppers are used in both their immature green and mature red state and are favoured for their sweet taste and thick flesh.

Red Cubanelle peppers are a staple in Cuban dishes and common in Latin American, Caribbean, and also Mediterranean cuisines, adding versatility to many dishes. They are popularly used in sofrito, a flavourful aromatic base used in many cuisines.  In Cuba sofrito is made by sautéing peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and cilantro, to use as the base for many different recipes including soups, stews, rice, and bean dishes.

Red cubanelle peppers are great diced raw for a crunchy addition to salsas and salads. And on sandwiches they provide a mild pepper flavour without excessive heat.

They also are great in sauces, stuffed with rice, meat, or vegetables and baked in the oven, or fried, sautéed, grilled, or roasted to enhance their sweetness.

Chilli Jalepena Lemon Spice Jalapeño Chilli Pepper Lemon Spice (Capsicum annuum)

This is not just an ordinary jalapeno; it’s got all the heat of a green jalapeno but with a wonderful citrus undertone. It looks like a jalapeno with the pods staring off dark green and then turning a beautiful bright yellow as they mature, making edible landscaping a breeze. The sturdy plants are super ornamental in the garden and extremely prolific, making them perfect for sunny borders or container planting.  

This outstanding little pepper has great flavour and a low to medium level of heat. Scoring 2 500 to 5 000 in Scoville Heat Units it has a smooth build up to a gentle and pleasing peak of warmth. The focus is across the tongue and eventually down the throat. A long lasting tingle of heat lingers well after the lemon spice has plateaued.

The smooth yellow skin is medium-to-thick walled and provides a satisfying crunch with each bite. Because the colour really pops, this variety really stands out in salsas and other fresh preparations.

If pickled together with green and red jalapeno varieties the yellow colours of lemon spice really pop. They also look fantastic added fresh in salads and salsas.

Lemon Spice Jalapeno is a great option to use as a base for sauces. Add this chilli pepper to any dishes that require a bit of citrus and some spice but not too much to handle. Give it a try in any of your favourite dishes.

Chilli Anaheim Picture courtesy Ali Eminov from flickrAnaheim Chilli Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

If you’ve got little ones in the house, or just don’t love very spicy foods, Anaheims, are perfect with their mild to medium heat. They range from 500 to 2 500 Scoville Heat Units, making them fairly mild, and on the lower end of the scale.

These chilli peppers make a fantastic addition to many recipes. They give off a tangy, smoky taste, with a hint of sweetness, too. Add them in any dish you'd make using bell peppers, though of course expect a small bit of heat, which is often welcomed. They can become part of your Cajun Holy Trinity, or Mirepoix - a flavour base in cooking, made by gently cooking diced vegetables in butter or oil to bring out their natural sweetness and deepen their flavour. This aromatic mixture is then used as a foundation for soups, stews, sauces, and other savoury dishes.

These peppers are medium-sized and often used for cooking in recipes when green or red chillies are required. The basic variety ripens to a dark green/reddish colour, but other strains ripen to full red.

Anaheim peppers boast a sleek and elongated shape that tapers to a point at the end. Their large size and thick skin makes them great candidates for eating raw, pickling, grilling, stuffing, and much more.

They are used for making the famous Mexican Rellenos where the skin is seared on an open flame until it skin bubbles and turns black. The charred skin is removed and the pepper is slit open and the pips and placenta removed before being stuffed with the cheeses of your choice, and then dipped in beaten egg and fried on a medium-hot griddle. They’re equally yummy in your breakfast scrambles or for jazzing up your enchiladas.

Red varieties can be strung together and dried to make chilli ristras - the strung pods of red chillies that you see displayed near arches, doors and windows all over New Mexico.

Chilli Cayenne Picture courtesy Maja Dumat from flickrCayenne Chilli Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

The Cayenne pepper has long, thin, slightly curved fruits which change colour from green to red when ripe, making it very decorative. This famous red variety has become highly prized for its unusually large and growing list of health benefits.

Cayenne pepper is known for its spiciness with a slightly smoky aroma, and is considered to be a medium to hot pepper, ranging from 30,000 to 50,000 SHU’s, which is about as hot as a serrano pepper. If you compare that to a typical jalapeno pepper, which averages around 5,000 SHU, the hottest cayenne is about 10 times hotter.

Cayenne peppers are one of the most popular chillies in the West but are found in a wide variety of cuisines, including Creole, Asian, Indian, Thai, Chinese, and Korean.

The dried spice is made by drying and grinding the peppers or pulping and baking them into cakes, which are then ground to produce the spice.

A pinch of cayenne over devilled kidneys or paired with game birds will add a gutsy kick and heighten the flavour of the dish. Try it in soups and sauces, on pizzas, as well as over meats and seafood’s. It’s great with vegetables and lentil dishes, or in curries. Keep it on the table in a shaker as an alternative to salt or pepper. The fresh fruits make amazing pickles and jams too.

Cayenne is so versatile you can use it whenever you need some heat, and you will find it enhances the flavour of even the simplest of dishes like shepherd’s pie, chilli con carne or even a cheese fondue.

In addition, the vast majority of popular hot sauces all rely on cayenne for part of their kick, particularly if the sauce also contains vinegar. Make your own cayenne pepper hot sauce by simmering peppers, garlic, salt, vinegar, and water. Blend, strain, and bottle.

You can pick your cayenne peppers when they are green, though the flavour will be somewhat grassy and the heat not so intense.

Cayenne Purple

Cayenne Purple, with its beautiful white and purple flowers and dark purple fruits which turn red when ripe, is very decorative in the garden, and an excellent addition to any dish.

Chilli Paper Lantern Paper Lantern Chilli Peppers (Capsicum chinense)

This chilli belongs to the Habanero stable of chillies. The peppers are small to medium-sized with red, pointy pendant shaped pods. The fruits are just a little longer than a common habanero, and they age from green to orange, and finally ripen to a vibrant orange or red colour, resembling miniature Chinese lanterns.

They have a typically sweet red Habanero aroma and flavour, and are quite spicy, but not among the hottest peppers like the Carolina Reaper or Ghost Pepper. The Paper Lantern is also not quite as hot as some other habanero cultivars like the Red Savina or Chocolate Habanero.  However, it sits at the upper scale of Habaneros, packing a significant punch, and scoring between 150 000 and 400 000 SHU’s, while the common Orange Habanero has Scoville Heat Units ranging from 100 000 to 350 000.  

The fruits have a subtly sweet, fruity flavour followed by an intense, very hot level of spice that is centred in the back of the throat. They are often used fresh or dried in various culinary applications where a balance of heat and flavour is desired.

The pods are thin skinned and very crunchy when picked young, and once they turn red the pods are less crisp, but much sweeter in taste and utilized in cooking.

Chinese Lanterns can be used as a substitute for the common Habanero varieties in culinary applications.  They are commonly cooked into homemade hot sauces and added to dishes where a good level of heat is desired without being too overwhelming, but can also be added fresh to salsas as salads.

Dried and ground into a powder, or flaked, Cayenne can easily be stored for extended use.

The plant is very striking and productive in the garden, with a compact habit that looks good in pots. This early-season habanero type was developed to thrive in cooler climates, making them a successful home garden variety, especially in difficult growing regions.

Chilli Rutgers' Pumpkin Habanero Rutgers’ Pumpkin Habanero Chilli Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

Rutgers' Pumpkin Habanero is an open-pollinated pepper variety that was developed from a field cross between African and Mexican habanero peppers.

Its bright tangerine colour, smooth skin, and cute pumpkin shaped peppers make the Pumpkin Habanero really stand out from the crowd when it comes too good looks. It’s sweet and crunchy, with capsaicin levels high enough to give a bite without overwhelming the crisp taste.

Rating at 30 000 to 50 000 Scoville Heat Units, it boasts more heat than a bell pepper, but less kick than a habanero. It’s perfect for those cooks who want a little bit of heat and a whole lot of flavour, making it perfect to use for the whole family.

Its vibrant colour and unique flavour make it a standout ingredient in fresh culinary creations like salads and salsas and for adding heat and flavour to cooked sauces and many other spicy dishes.

Chilli Carolina Reaper Carolina Reaper Chilli Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

The Carolina Reaper is certainly not for the faint hearted, it’s one of the hottest chilli peppers in the world, setting off a bomb of flavour in your mouth and an intense heat that will make you sweat and feel like its detaching your tongue and travelling into your nostrils and ears!

The Carolina reaper is a hybrid of a Red Habanero strain and a Naja Viper pepper—another pepper that was once the hottest pepper in the world. Like the Naja Viper and Trinidad Scorpion, the Carolina Reaper has a scorpion-like tail, and this, together with its bulbous shape and pockmarked scarlet-red skin, makes for a devilish looking chilli fitting of its name.

Carolina Reaper chillies range between 1 million Scoville Heat Units, with peak levels of over 2.2 million SHU’s. It was officially crowned the hottest chilli pepper in the world by Guinness World Records in 2013, a title it held until 2023 when it was surpassed by Pepper X.

Compared to a Jalapeno, the Reaper is 175 to 880 times hotter, and compared to another popular super-hot chilli, the Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia) it’s nearly double the heat of the infamous Bhut.

Its scorching heat makes eating it raw inadvisable. Cooking and diluting it with other ingredients is best. The Carolina Reaper can be dried, powdered or flaked, and is good for pickling and in marinades.

The pods have a medium thick flesh and turn from green to red when mature, and despite its extreme heat, its sweet and fruity undertones make it a popular choice for extremely hot sauces, from tangy vinegar-based ones to those with a sweet or smoky undertone.

It combines well with many ingredients like tomatoes, sweet onions, honey, and sweet fruits like mango to temper the fire. Garlic with its pungent flavour holds its own against the Reaper. Lime’s acidity and fresh flavour also go well will hot chillies, as does the fresh and slightly citrusy flavour of cilantro. Pineapple, with its tangy and sweet flavour is also a good pairing.

Dark chocolate’s bitterness and sweetness will help to balance the Reaper’s heat, and the creamy and slightly sweet flavour of coconut milk will temper it.

Chilli Apocalypse Apocalypse Scorpion Red Chilli Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

This chilli pepper hybrid is a powerful and extremely hot variety that has quickly established itself as one of the hottest peppers in the world. Boasting a Scoville Heat Unit rating between 1 175,000 and 1 500,000, the Apocalypse Scorpion Chilli stands shoulder to shoulder with the Carolina Reaper and Pepper X. Compared to a Jalapeno the Apocalypse Scorpion is roughly 175 to 560 times hotter, so this is not a chilli to be trifled with lightly.

Like most super-hots, the Apocalypse Scorpion is one wicked looking fruit that screams “stay away!” The small pods grow 5 to 7cm in length and typically feature the ominous scorpion peppers ‘stinger tail’, with wrinkled, warped and pock-marked skin which looks like it has been melting in the sun. The fruit follows a typical colour pattern as it matures, aging from green to red while on the vine, and increasing in overall spiciness during the process.

What sets it apart is not just its intense heat, but also its distinct fruity, slightly sweet and floral flavour that emerges before the fiery burn takes over. This duality makes it an essential ingredient for culinary creations where both exceptional heat and flavour are non-negotiable.

It can be quite useful to add spiciness to large amounts of food at once and a good way to a spice up large pots of chilli, stews, soups, and more. Just a sliver of any super-hot pepper can provide spiciness to an entire pot of chili or stew. So, don’t be heavy-handed to start, use small amounts and build up to get to the heat level you prefer.

Apocalypse Scorpion Chocolate

Scorpion Chocolate also has a very hot but distinct flavour profile, with an added smoky profile too it. 

Apocalypse Scorpion Chillies are not the fastest producers around but are definitely worth the wait. Both the red and chocolate varieties are particularly pretty in the garden with their large shiny fruits.

Chilli Trinidad Maruga Scorpio Red Trinidad Moruga Scorpion Chilli Peppers (Capsicum chinense)

The Trinidad Maruga Scorpion hails from the Maruga region of Trinidad and Tobago. It is one of the hottest peppers in the world, rating 800 000 to over 1 300 000 Scoville Heat units (SKU). As a member of Capsicum chinense, it shares characteristics with other renowned peppers like the Carolina Reaper.

Typically small to medium in size, these peppers have a wrinkled, irregular shape. The pods start off green and mature to a bright red colour when ripe. Their distinctive scorpion-like tail gives them their name, and their taste also has a little sting like a scorpion with the heat kicking in almost immediately.

The Trinidad Moruga Scorpion reigns as a heavyweight contender in the world of spicy peppers, and its extreme heat challenges even the most seasoned chilli aficionados. In addition to their extreme heat, Trinidad Maruga Scorpions are known for their complex flavour, which is fruity and slightly floral, with hints of citrus and a tropical sweetness. This makes them popular in sauces, salsas, marinades and dry rubs, blended with other ingredients to balance their heat.

Trinidad Maruga Scorpion Peach

The pods of Scorpion Peach start off green and mature to a peach colour when ripe

Trinidad Maruga Scorpion Red

The pods of Scorpion red start off green and mature to a bright red when ripe

Chilli 7 Pot Barrackpore JBP7 Pot Chilli Peppers (Capsicum chinense)

The 7 Pot is related to the Trinidad Scorpion Pepper and shares its rough, pimpled skin, but is plumper, with a ribbed texture. It’s similar in shape to habaneros but a bit longer.

These chillies come from Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean, and there are a few different types, including: Trinidad 7 Pot Primo, 7 Pot Barrackpore, 7 Pot Jonah, 7 Pot Primo Red, 7 Pot Brain Strain Yellow, 7 Pot Evergreen, and 7 Pot Douglah. 

The varieties display a wide array of colours which develop as they mature. Colours include green, yellow, orange, red, brown, and even purple. Some varieties, like the 7 Pot Evergreen starts out a pale green and turns darker with a yellowish tint as it ripens. Other varieties, like the 7 Pot Douglah start off green and mature to a dark chocolate brown.

The 7 pot chilli plants are bushy and quite compact, reaching heights between 50 and 80cm. This makes them ideal for pot culture.

Its name”7 Pot” refers to a saying from the islands that a single chilli is hot enough to spice 7 pots of stew! So yeah this chilli is fiery, so fiery that in Trinidad it is used in military grade tear gas, and also in a marine paint which prevents barnacles!

Needless to say, the 7 Pot Primo is one of the hottest peppers in the world, with an average Scoville Heat Units rating of 1 473,480. To put that into perspective, jalapenos have a SHU rating of just 2 500 to 8 000 SHUs.

The heat is similar to that of the Bhut Jolokia, but like other Caribbean peppers, 7 Pot peppers have a wonderful nutty and fruity flavour, with some connoisseur’s saying the aroma is reminiscent of apricots. These flavours, combined with the heat, make 7 Pot chillies immensely popular among chilli-head chefs.

The fruit has thin walls, making 7 Pot chillies suitable for drying and flaking or grinding into powder. The fresh pods are added to many cooked dishes; in hot sauces, marinades, and spicy dishes like stews, grilled meats, and curries.

For the brave at heart they are used fresh in dressings and salsas, especially in combination with tropical fruits such as mangoes and pineapple, and perhaps some coconut cream to temper the heat.

Ghost Chilli Peach Ghost Pepper, Bhut Jolokai (Capsicum chinense)

The various types of Ghost Peppers vary in Scoville Heat Unit ratings from between 1 041,427 and 1 463,700. It is another one of the hottest chilli peppers in the world so use with caution.

When ripe the fruit has a wrinkled, bumpy texture, appearing red, orange, purple or brown, depending on the variety. The fruits are not only hot but also have a beautiful smoky, citrusy flavour.

Red Ghost Pepper

With a wrinkled, bumpy texture, this ghost pepper is 5 to 7cm long and turns red when fully ripe. It is used sparingly in pickles, hot sauces, chutneys, and many other spicy dishes, and sometimes in spicy powders and marinades.

Chocolate Ghost Pepper

The Chocolate Ghost Pepper, or Chocolate Bhut Jolokia, is a dark brown variety of the Bhut Jolokia, originating from India’s north-eastern regions of Assam, Nagaland, and Manipur. Once considered the hottest pepper in the world, it ranges from 800 000 to 1 000,000 SHU’s, making it extremely spicy.

Despite its heat, it features a fruity, slightly sweet, and earthy flavour with hints of chocolate and smokiness, making it popular in sauces and salsas.

Purple Ghost Pepper

Purple Bhut Jolokia provides a nice, sweet flavour and a good burn. Your lips will swell, and your tongue may become numb, but you will love it. The pods start with a dull purple colour, turn a glossy white-green, and then a deep purple. They mature to a dark red colour with dark blotches.

Yellow Ghost Pepper

The yellow Ghost Pepper or Bhut Jolokia has a sweet and fruity flavour and will light up your garden like a Christmas tree.  This chilli pepper pack a nuclear punch in your mouth. The pods start off green and then turn into a bright yellow colour.

Peach Ghost Pepper

The Peach ghost chillies most distinguishing feature is its peach-like colour, which ranges from pale yellow to a soft, orange-peach hue when ripe. This gives it a visually striking appearance.

Pimento Ghost Pepper, Pimento Jolokia

Pimento Jolokia is a hybrid chilli pepper that combines the mild and sweet Pimento with the heat of the Ghost Pepper or Bhut Jolokia, resulting in a much milder ghost pepper. This variety is a good example of how heat within hybrid species can vary greatly. Bhut Jolokia averages between 1 000,000 and 1 041,427 on the Scoville Scale, but the Pimento Ghost Chilli only measures about 500 000 SHU’s.

These small to medium peppers are red and have a slightly wrinkled surface. They offer a sweet and tangy flavour complemented by the Ghost Pepper’s heat, making them perfect in Mediterranean dishes and for salsas, salads, hot sauces, and stews.

Chilli Ghostly Jalapeno Ghostly Jalapeno (Capsicum chinense x Capsicum annuum.)

The Ghostly Jalapeno is a hybrid resulting from the cross-pollination of two different Capsicum species, the Jalapeno and the Ghost Pepper, or Bhut Jolokia. The Ghostly Jalapeno ranks at around 30 000 to 50 00 in Scoville Heat Units, making it a lot milder than Bhut Jolokia Ghost Pepper which ranges between 1 041,427 and 1 463,700 SHU’s.

The Ghostly Jalapeno is an interesting chilli pepper. It’s got great flavour and you get the Bhut flavour, but the heat isn’t nearly as fiery. The burn starts as a light tingle on the tongue, eventually building after a long delay. At its peak it has a good sting on the tongue and lips then becomes sweet like an apple or a bean. The whole affair is very smooth and sits at the plateau for a bit before disappearing just as seamlessly.

These chillies transition from green to fiery red and are renowned for their prolific pod production, on compact, bushy plants reaching around 80cm in height. In looks the ripened peppers don’t really present any of their jalapeno lineage, looking more like smaller ghost peppers with lightly wrinkled skin.

The ghostly jalapeno has a thin, crunchy wall, bringing a kick to any dish. Their intensity makes them versatile for spice powders or flakes, pickling, and eating fresh.

Chilli Naga Viper Red Naga Viper Red Chilli Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

The Naga Viper is a hybrid chilli derived from the Naga Morich, Bhut Jolokia (Ghost Pepper), and the Trinidad Scorpion. In 2011, it was recorded as the world's hottest chilli by the Guinness World Records, with a rating of 1 382,118 Scoville Heat Units (SHU).

The Naga Viper is renowned for its exceptional productivity and its pods transition from green to vibrant red when ripe, varying in shape, with some featuring tails while others do not. Typically wrinkled and red when ripe, its appearance may vary slightly with growing conditions.

The Viper Naga delivers an intense heat with fruity and floral notes to a variety of culinary creations. Use it sparingly in cooking to enhance hot sauces and spicy dishes. It’s ideal for crafting super-hot chilli sauces and extreme chilli powders.

Growing up to approximately a meter in height, The Viper Naga is very ornamental whilst fruiting, and flourishes in pot cultivation.

Dorset Naga Chilli Pepper

The Dorset Naga, a distinguished member of the hottest chillies in the world club. It is a selected strain from the Naga Morich variety, known for its intense heat, and a Scoville Heat Unit rating between 800 000 to 1 600,000.

The peppers are small to medium-sized and typically have wrinkled, bumpy skin. When ripe, they usually turn from green to a vibrant deep red, though some varieties may also be orange or yellow.

Despite its intense heat, the Dorset Naga has a fruity and slightly smoky flavour, which adds a complex taste to dishes beyond just heat.

The Dorset Naga plant is shorter and bushier compared to the Naga Morich. Despite being more compact, it remains an excellent producer, showcasing its resilience and adaptability.

Chilli Fatalii Fatalii Chilli Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

The Fatalii is a cultivar developed in southern or central Africa from chillies introduced from the Americas. Fatalii peppers are extremely hot and there are multiple variations of this chilli in shades of yellow, white, and red, with yellow being the most prevalent in global markets.

Culivars include: Red Fatalii, Chocolate Fatalii, and Yellow Fatalii

With a heat level ranging from 100 000 to 350 000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU), it shares a similar heat range with Habaneros and Scotch Bonnets.

The small and slender pods, average 6 to 8cm in length and have a curved or straight, conical shape that tapers to a distinct point. The waxy skin is deeply creased and folded with a semi-wrinkled appearance.

The fruit has an earthy and bright, citrus-forward flavour with strong notes of lemon and lime. In addition to the fruity taste, the pepper also contains an intense heat that begins at the back of the throat and at its peak it travels into the mouth.

Fatalii chilli peppers can be used in fresh applications, but due to their extreme heat and thin walls, they are more commonly processed into hot sauces or dried and ground into chilli flakes or powder. Once dried, it can be used to add heat to marinades, dressings, barbeque sauces, salsa, and chutney.

They are best suited for cooked applications such as roasting, boiling, or stir-frying chicken, seafood, and grilled meats. The brave blend it minced raw into marinades and dips, or finely chopped into salsas. It pairs well with avocado, lime, lemon, oranges, mango, papaya, pineapple, and tomato.

Chilli Chocolate Habanero Habanero Chilli Peppers (Capsicum chinense)

The habanero chilli pepper is a pungent cultivar and a botanical cousin of the Scotch Bonnet from the Caribbean. Rating 100 000 to 350 000 in Scoville Heat Units, they have a delightful fusion of sweetness and subtle habanero notes, delivering a fresh burst of flavour, and the heat intensifies swiftly, providing a well-rounded burn that gradually builds to a satisfying level.

In terms of appearance they look like normal bell peppers, but in miniature format, sometimes attaining the size of a golf ball. Unripe habaneros are green, and they colour as they ripen. The most common colour variants are orange and red, but the fruit may also be white, brown, yellow, green, or purple. Green and white pods are milder than orange, black, or chocolate ones, and the Red Savina is the hottest.

Habaneros come from the Amazon and were spread to Mexico, and today the largest producer of the habanero pepper is the Yucatán Peninsula, in Mexico.

Habaneros are an integral part of Yucatecan food, accompanying most dishes. These diminutive devils are pretty punchy, and they will give you a nice, tangy heat, but they are not too painful to eat. With their crunchy and crisp texture, Habanero’s add depth and spice to various culinary creations, whether incorporated fresh into salsas, sauces, or pickles, or dried and ground into powders.

The habanero pairs especially well with tropical fruits such as mango, pineapple, and papaya, which help counter its intensity, and it is frequently used in bottled condiments that combine its flavours with everything from vinegar to carrots. The chilli has even been added to cocktails and other beverages.

This petite chilli plant with its stocky build is a prolific producer and reaches heights of 35 to 40cm in pots, while flourishing to larger sizes when planted in the ground.

Habanero Chocolate

This variety has a similar lantern shape to that of a normal pepper. The fruits are extremely hot and ripen into a dark chocolate colour.

Habanero Peach

This variety has a slightly higher Scoville rating than most other habanero varieties. The fruits are light green and ripen to a pale peach colour. This chilli is a great addition to sauces and salsas.

Habanero Red

This chilli is extremely hot but has a beautifully unique flavour. The fruits are green but can vary in colour upon ripening.

Habanero Yellow

This is an abundant producer with large golden yellow fruit that produces for a long time, looks good, and has a great taste.

Habanero Saffron

The Saffron Habanero is a small plant but a great producer, and the medium sized saffron-yellow coloured fruit is crunchy and fresh, with a fairly light, sweet and fruity taste.

Habanero Red Savina

This chilli briefly held the record for the hottest chilli with a Scoville rating of 577 000.  It has a deep heat with a tropical taste.

Chilli Scotch Bonnet Picture courtesy Maja Dumat from flickrScotch Bonnet Chilli Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

Scotch Bonnet chilli peppers are a variety known for their intense heat and fruity, habanero-like flavour. The Scoville Heat Units for this variety vary between 250 000 to 350 000. The fruits are typically small, wrinkled, and range in colour from green to red, orange or yellow when ripe

The Scotch bonnet is often compared to the habanero, since they are two varieties of the same species, but they have different pod types.

Both the Scotch bonnet and the habanero have thin, waxy flesh, and they have a similar heat level and flavour. Both varieties average around the same level of pungency, but the actual degree varies greatly from one fruit to another according to genetics, growing methods, climate, and plant stress.

The scotch bonnet is very prolific and has quite an intense heat with a nice sweet flavour and a fruity apricot aroma. It is widely used in Caribbean cuisine, particularly in Jamaica to add a distinctive flavour to dishes like jerk chicken, and pepper sauces to season or marinade meat, fish and poultry.

The finer the pepper is chopped or minced, the more the heat is spread in the dish. It can be used whole in dishes, and removed before serving to impart flavour without too much heat. When eating it fresh, the heat doesn't kick in until a few seconds after you have eaten it

Caution:

When cooking with super-hot chillies  it's crucial to wear gloves, and avoid touching your face. You may even have to wear kitchen goggles to protect your eyes.