Welcome to Gardening in South Africa!

Dear Gardening Lover,

Do you want to grow delicious fresh vegetables but are not quite sure where to begin; or have you tried your hand at growing vegetables in the past and come unstuck?

“Growing Vegetables in South Africa” is written in a way that is easy to understand, yet complete with all the facts you need to know about growing vegetables; without getting too technical and boring.
 
If you think that vegetable patches are so ugly that they must be relegated to some corner of the backyard, think again! When you practice organic gardening together with companion planting; not only will your vegetable patch be productive, but also overflowing with flowering annuals and herbs growing between the rows. Your crops will also be healthier, more nutritious, and more resistant to pests and diseases. “Growing Vegetables in South Africa” includes many tips to get you started on your journey into companion planting and organic growing.

Are you concerned that the vegetables you buy for your family may be GMO’s (genetically modified organisms) or are fed with artificial fertilisers and sprayed with harmful chemical sprays? By sourcing organic seeds and growing your own vegetables, you will have peace of mind knowing that your family is eating 100% organically grown vegetables that are fresh and packed with vitamins and minerals. “Growing vegetables in South Africa” includes nutritional information and the health benefits of each vegetable.

Do you want to grow vegetables, but space is limited? A small vegetable patch can produce an amazing quantity of food and every garden, no matter how small, can produce a bounty of vegetables and herbs. Most vegetables grow easily in pots, so even a tiny balcony garden can produce your family's favourites.

“Growing Vegetables in South Africa” is written especially for South African gardeners and includes a sowing guide. All 100 pages of this e-book are jam-packed with good advice and lovely photographs; and the instructions are so easy to follow that even a child could understand. In fact, growing your own veggies can be so much fun that the whole family will want to get involved. Small children are especially fond of growing vegetables and this is sure to encourage them to eat them too!

Whether you want to grow vegetables in the conventional manner, or are keen to practice companion planting and organic methods, this e-book offers all the information you need to get you started; and includes recipes for many sprays that you can make at home. Not only are these methods lighter on your pocket, but they are definitely the healthier option and wont damage the environment either.

If you follow the growing instructions in my e-book you will soon be harvesting your very first crops and nothing is more rewarding than that first meal, using your own home grown produce.

I hope you will have as much fun reading my book as I had writing it.

A chapter by chapter preview:

Cool season, warm season and intermediate crops
Perennial vegetables
Root seed and leaf crops
Granular fertilisers
Liquid fertilisers
Foliar feeding
Crop fotation
Leaf & stem crops, root crops, fruiting & seed crops
Vegetable families
Heavy feeders, medium & light feeders
Preparing and planning your vegetable garden
Preparing the beds
Trenched beds
Raised beds
Organic growing
Mulching
Watering
Growing vegetables from seed
Successive sowing
Growing vegetables in containers
Companion planting
Bait plants
Green manure
Natural sprays
Sowing guide

Vegetable Varieties:

See under Vegetables

See under Indoor Potplants

See under Indoor Pot plant Section

See under Bedding Plants

See under Bedding Plants

Verbena Quartz Series. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyCondensed Version:

Verbena is a popular container plant and perfect for hanging baskets and window boxes. It also looks good in rock gardens, as an edging plant, or a short-lived but extremely colourful groundcover. The verbena hybrids are technically perennials, but most are grown as summer annuals.

There are hundreds of cultivars and several series of cultivars, varying in flower colour and growth habit.  Some are erect and bushy; others trailing and mat forming; some dense and compact; others open and spreading. The small individual flowers are borne profusely in dense clusters all summer and into autumn and come in shades which include white, pink, crimson, scarlet, vermilion, purple, blue, and yellow; some are bi-coloured; some have a central white eye; and some are fragrant.

Their main requirements are full sun and fertile but very well-drained soils; making them ideal for hot dry sites. Water regularly until your plants are established but thereafter, water them only when dry. Verbenas are susceptible to fungal diseases, especially in very humid regions, so try to avoid overhead watering.

If you don’t deadhead your verbena, it may quit blooming, but this need not be a tedious task - once the first blooms are spent, using secateurs, or for large areas, hedge cutters; simply clip off the top 1/4 of the stems that hold the faded flowers, and within weeks your plants will be in full bloom once again.

Verbenas should not be over fertilised and a feed once a year with a complete fertiliser will suffice, together with a mulch of compost. Over fertilising will encourage abundant leaf growth, but fewer blooms.

Verbena peruviana 'Twinkle Pink' Picture courtesy TuberfloraFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Verbena belongs to the Verbenaceae family of plants, which contains more than 1,100 species in about 30 genera and includes Duranta, Clerodendrum and Petrea. The majority of the 250 Verbena species originate in the Americas and Europe. Verbena X hybrida, the verbena hybrids or garden verbenas are a product of garden cultivation, and do not occur naturally in the wild. However some cultivars have escaped and become established in the southern U.S. The many cultivars of Verbena x hybrida are believed to have been selected from crosses between Verbena peruvuiana and Verbena phlogiflora, Verbena incisa, and Verbena teucroides. Each of these parent species grows naturally in South America.

The verbena hybrids are technically perennials, but most are grown as summer annuals. There are hundreds of cultivars and several series of cultivars, varying in flower colour and growth habit.  Some are erect and bushy; others trailing and mat forming; some dense and compact; others open and spreading. The small individual flowers are borne profusely in dense clusters all summer and into autumn and come in shades which include white, pink, crimson, scarlet, vermilion, purple, blue, and yellow; some are bi-coloured; some have a central white eye; and some are fragrant. Trailing varieties may extend 30 to 60 cm, and the largest erect forms may reach 45cm tall. Plant them en masse as a groundcover or in hanging baskets and pots for months of colour.

Verbena peruviana 'Donalena Deep Pink' Picture courtesy TuberfloraIn the Garden:

Because they flower so profusely, verbena is a popular container plant and perfect for hanging baskets and window boxes. It also looks good in rock gardens, as an edging plant, or a short-lived but extremely colourful groundcover. Garden centres sell them in 6-pack seedling trays, pots and hanging baskets, but if you have the time, they are easy to grow from seed sown in spring; so you don't need to spend a lot of money to reap the rewards of verbena. An added bonus is that their cut flowers last long in a vase and attract butterflies to the garden.

Cultivation:

In warm regions verbenas are grown as short-lived perennials, and although they are semi-hardy to frost, in cold regions they are usually treated as summer annuals and sown or planted in early spring once all danger of frost is over.

Their main requirements are full sun and fertile but very well-drained soils; making them ideal for hot dry sites. Water regularly until your plants are established but thereafter, water them only when dry. In very hot and dry regions they will need more regular watering to look at their best, and may appreciate some relief from extremely hot midday sun. Verbenas are susceptible to fungal diseases, especially in very humid regions, so try to avoid overhead watering.

Young plants may be pinched to promote bushier growth; and regular deadheading spent flowers will encourage additional blooms. If you don’t deadhead your verbena, it may quit blooming, but this need not be a tedious task - once the first blooms are spent, using secateurs, or for large areas, hedge cutters; simply clip off the top 1/4 of the stems that hold the faded flowers, and within weeks your plants will be in full bloom once again.

Verbena peruviana 'Donalena White Hail' Picture courtesy TuberfloraVerbenas should not be over fertilised and a feed once a year with a complete fertiliser will suffice, together with a mulch of compost. When planting out young seedlings, do not add fertiliser; wait until the plants are established and growing strongly. Over fertilising will encourage abundant leaf growth, but fewer blooms.

Propagation:

Propagation is by division or inter-nodal cuttings (i.e. cut between the nodes rather than just under them to make a cutting). Cuttings can be taken in late summer and in cold regions overwintered indoors. Containers can also be overwintered indoors; or new plants may simply be purchased or grown from seed each spring.

Verbena is relatively easy to start from seeds sown in well-drained soil, but germination might take as long as a month, so be patient. Start the seeds indoors in late winter or outdoors in early spring once all danger of frost is over. They germinate best in soil temperatures of 22 to 24°C. Sow into trays or individual peat or fibre pots, placing two seeds in each pot. They do not require light for germination, so cover lightly with seedling soil. Water regularly but allow the soil to drain well before watering again. Once the seedlings have 3 to 4 leaves per plant, clip out the weakest plant from each pot, or transplant the seedlings sown in trays. Harden off your plants by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually exposing them to more and more sunlight before planting them into the garden or containers. Once your seedlings are planted out and growing well, pinch out the centre shoot in each plant for bushier growth. Avoid high humidity in the growing environment as this can induce powdery mildew.

Pests & Diseases:

Verbena are relatively carefree if cared for correctly and grown in well-drained soil, and in fact, the main cause of problems with verbena is over-pampering, especially overfeeding and overwatering. Plants that are kept too moist and don’t get enough sun are susceptible to powdery or downy mildew, rust and other fungal diseases; so plant verbena in a sunny part of your garden to prevent this problem. Also, ensure that there is good air circulation around the leaves. Watch out for aphids, scale insects, slugs or snails, whitefly, thrips and spider mites.

Condensed Version:Watsonia borbonica 'Pink'

Many watsonia species are losing habitat throughout their range due to crop cultivation; making it important for us to continue cultivating them in our gardens.

Because they are so easy to grow and have a long flowering period, watsonias are ideal for busy gardeners. They are also perfect water-wise plants for the winter rainfall regions; thriving in a Mediterranean climate.

They are suitable for all gardens and look magnificent in mass plantings; or planted in clumps in herbaceous borders; or even in large containers.

They are also excellent for soil retention on banks.

All species are perennial herbs growing from corms and producing attractive upright lance shaped leaves and erect spikes of showy flowers during spring and early summer (September to around January in South Africa).

Prior to this, it endures a growth stage and, after flowering, will die back for the hottest time of the year (February and March).

Watsonias are easy to grow in full sun or light shade; and although most are adapted to a winter rainfall climate, they will still thrive under summer rainfall conditions provided they are grown in well-drained soil and can be watered during their growing season.

Watsonia pillansiiFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Watsonia is a genus of plants in the Iris family and endemic to South Africa; meaning originally they could not be found growing wild anywhere else in the world. Having said this, watsonia species were introduced as garden ornamentals to Australia in the mid-19th century and were widely grown by the 1940s. Today, in the South-West of Western Australia, six species have escaped from garden cultivation and become naturalised along rivers, wetlands and seasonally wet ground. In places Watsonias have displaced native understorey flora and high concentrations of them create a fire hazard in summer. Watsonia meriana var. bulbillifera is also a weed in New Zealand, Réunion and Mauritius; and Watsonia borbonica has naturalised itself in the USA.

There are about 52 Watsonia species; most of which are concentrated in the south-western parts of the Western Cape, but also extending north into Namaqualand and east into the summer rainfall areas of southern KwaZulu-Natal, Lesotho, Mpumalanga and Swaziland. Most are deciduous fynbos plants which are adapted to a Mediterranean-type climate with hot, dry summers and wet winters; and the majority of the species occur in mountainous regions, with a couple occurring in sandy flats and marshy areas.

Watsonia fourcadeiThose which occur in the summer rainfall regions are evergreen.  Evergreen selections include; Watsonia angusta, Watsonia fourcadeii, Watsonia galpinii, Watsonia knysnana, Watsonia pillansii and Watsonia zeyheri. Deciduous selections include; Watsonia borbonica, Watsonia marginata, Watsonia meriana and Watsonia vanderspuyiae

Watsonias will burst into bloom during the spring and early summer months (September to around January in South Africa). Prior to this, it endures a growth stage and, after flowering, will die back for the hottest time of the year (February and March). The flowers last for four or five weeks, making this a rewarding addition to the garden.

All are perennial herbs growing from corms 30 to 40mm in diameter with grey-brown tunics; producing attractive upright lance shaped leaves and erect spikes of showy flowers. In the wild the plants flower particularly profusely in the first and second years following a fire; and in recently burnt areas provide a major source of food for nectar-feeding birds, insects and rodents.

The most commonly cultivated species is the pink-flowered Watsonia borbonica and its white mutant Watsonia 'Arderne's White'.

(Watsonia borbonica)

Watsonia borbonica grows in the extreme southwest of the Western Cape, from Tulbagh southwards to the Cape Peninsula and eastwards to Bredasdorp. It is commonly found growing on rocky sandstone slopes or well-drained slopes of clay and granite, and sometimes in deep sandy soil at the foot of the mountains.

This stately plant produces upright, broad and glossy, sword-shaped leaves, and 2m tall spikes of rose-pink, trumpet-shaped flowers.  

Watsonia meriana(Watsonia aletroides) Rooipypie

The Rooipypie ranges from the Bot Rivier to Knysna and Uniondale and is widely distributed; occurring on clay soils throughout the Overberg, the Riversdale Plain, the Little Karoo and Upper Breede River Valley. It is still found on renosterveld fragments in the Overberg.

This beautiful watsonia has pendulous blooms in shades of pink, orange or red, and only reaches +-55cm tall, making it excellent for smaller gardens and pot cultivation.

(Watsonia marginata)

Marginata is also a Cape species and has flowers which are different from other watsonias in that they are cup-shaped rather than trumpet-shaped, and are held on unusually long spikes +-1.2 to 2 meters tall, with up to 50 densely packed flowers.

Flowers can be mauve, pink, white or maroon. The leaves are also most attractive, being broad, bluish-green in colour, with conspicuous yellowish margins.

(Watsonia fourcadei)

Watsonia fourcadei is found in the Eastern and Western Cape and has pretty salmon pink flowers. It grows +- 90 to 180cm tall.

Watsonia borbonica ssp ardernei 'White'(Watsonia pillansii) 

Watsonia pillansii can be found growing wild in the Eastern and Western Cape, and KwaZulu-Natal and is an extremely handsome watsonia with broad, grey strap shaped leaves and bright orange flowers. It grows +-50 to 120cm tall; multiplies rapidly; and prefers moist conditions.

(Watsonia meriana)

Watsonia meriana has many garden hybrids in cream, pink and red, and puts on a spectacular show. It grows +- 60cm to 1m tall, making it great for smaller gardens and pot culture.

In the Garden:

Many Watsonia species are losing habitat throughout their range due to crop cultivation; making it important for us to continue cultivating them in our gardens. Because they are so easy to grow and have a long flowering period, watsonias are ideal for busy gardeners.

They are also perfect water-wise plants for the winter rainfall regions; thriving in a Mediterranean climate. They are suitable for all gardens and look magnificent in mass plantings; or planted in clumps in herbaceous borders; or even in large containers. They are also excellent for soil retention on banks. When not in bloom, the foliage is still decorative and after flowering has finished, attractive seed pods are produced.

Watsonias are great subjects for low maintenance gardens and their flowers will attract sunbirds. The blooms last quite well in a vase, so feel free to cut the stems for bouquets as this will not hurt the plants.

Watsonia mixed Picture courtesy HadecoCultivation:

Watsonia are easy to grow in full sun or light shade; and although most are adapted to a winter rainfall climate, they will still thrive under summer rainfall conditions provided they are grown in well-drained soil and can be watered during their growing season. If drainage is a problem, cultivate them in raised beds or containers.

They do not require rich soil, but adding compost to the beds when planting; and mulching around the roots occasionally will give them a boost. They also do not need copious amounts of fertilisers; and an occasional feeding during the growing season (autumn, winter and spring) with small doses of a balanced organic fertiliser will be sufficient.

Actively growing and blooming plants will look at their best if watered moderately during long dry spells. If the plants are happy in their position they will multiply freely, making them perfect for busy gardeners.

In South Africa corms become available in March and April and are planted out in March, April or May. Plant the corms at a depth of approximately half their diameter (+-4 to 6cm deep) and about 10 to 15cm apart. The corms look like fat, flat gladiola bulbs and there is a small point or even a bit of last year's stem on the side that should be placed facing up. Water well after planting; and moderately thereafter until established.

Watsonia borbonicaAt the end of the growing season the leaves will turn yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. Don't cut off the dying leaves until they turn completely brown, because they will gather sunlight to create food through photosynthesis; strengthening the bulb for the future.

The plants will remain dormant until the next growing season and in areas with excellent drainage they can be left in the soil, but if you live in a very cold region, or irrigate your garden all year round, it may be better to lift and store the corms when they have finished blooming.

The clumps will continue to flower regularly as long as they do not become overcrowded. Lifting and dividing the plants every three to five years will keep them blooming well.

Pot Cultivation:

If you wish to grow them in containers, choose large heavy ones because watsonias can grow quite tall. Plant the corms a bit closer together than you would in garden beds for a glorious show.

Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium should work fine; but if you're worried about drainage, add some washed river sand to the mixture. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes because watsonias must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot. Also, do not allow the pots to stand in drip trays full of water for long.

In the winter rainfall region the winter rains usually begin in April and potted plants should be watered sparingly at this time. In the summer rainfall regions you will need to water regularly during the growing season. During the dormant period, stop watering pot-grown specimens and if necessary, move them to a cool, dry place. 

Site your containers where they will receive full sun and water regularly during dry periods. Watsonia will form sizeable clumps over time and eventually flowering will diminish. When this occurs, dig up the clump and separate it into a number of smaller plants.

Watsonia borbonica 'Dark Pink'Propagation:

Watsonia borbonica produces offsets abundantly, and the easiest method of propagation is by division. Clumps can be lifted and divided at any time during the dormant season and re-planted in autumn. After lifting, store the corms in a cool, dry place or re-plant immediately to avoid mealy bug infestation.

Seed is sown from April to June into deep seedling trays. Sow thinly into a well-drained medium like, 2 parts sand, 2 parts compost, and 1 part loam. Seeds should be planted 3 to 4mm deep, covered with clean sand and kept moist and lightly shaded. Protect them from rain during this period. Seed germinates readily within 3 to 4 weeks. Reduce watering towards the end of the growing season and withhold completely when they young plants are dormant; resuming again in the autumn. Plants grown from seed should start flowering in their second or third year.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Watsonias are generally hardy plants with few pests and diseases attacking them; but watch out for snails and slugs who occasionally eat the leaves , and thrips which can damage the flowers.

See under Bulbous Plants