Canterbury Bells. Picture courtesy Ann SonghurstCondensed Version:

Canterbury bells remind one of a storybook English cottage garden with their tall flower spikes and elegant, bell-shaped flowers, which come in a lovely array of colours, from purple to violet, blue, lavender, pink, and white, and which last extremely long in a vase. These biennial flowering plants take two years to complete their biological lifecycle, and this is a long cultivation period. If grown from seed, the plants can take a whole year or more to flower, but it is sure worth the wait! If you are impatient, you may on occasion see the plants available in nursery pots or trays. Snap them up, as these more established plants will flower sooner. In their first year of growth the plants form a low rosette of green leaves, but the flowering stems can reach +-70 to 80cm in height, making them a perfect background plant for the flower border.  

Canterbury bells thrive in regions with good summer rainfall and are not suited to very hot, dry or humid regions. In South Africa, and the old and trusted Canterbury Bell’s ‘Cup and Saucer’ is still the most readily available variety from seed suppliers. It is generally sown in spring, or in late summer and autumn, and the plants require cold, short days, followed by long days, for flowering. They prefer reasonably cold winter temperatures and are hardy to frost. Although they love full sun they will also grow in light shade, and in hotter regions some midday or afternoon shade would be appreciated. Plant them in good, deep, well-drained soil and water regularly, especially during dry spells.

Germination is easy and will take place within 8 to 14 days, and the tiny seeds are usually sown directly into well-prepared garden beds, but can also be sown into seedling trays. Space them about 30 to 40cm apart in the garden. Cutting out the dead flowers regularly will often encourage a second flush of flowers.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Canterbury bells are gorgeous old-fashioned biennials which at one time were widely grown, and which still deserve a place in modern gardens. They remind one of a storybook English cottage garden with their tall flower spikes and elegant, bell-shaped flowers, which come in a lovely array of colours, from purple to violet, blue, lavender, pink, and white, and which last extremely long in a vase.

Campanula medium is native to Southern Europe, but it is naturalized in most European countries and in North America. In its natural habitat it grows on stony, rocky and bushy slopes, at an altitude of 0 to 1,500 metres above sea level.  Canterbury bells are biennial flowering plants which take two years to complete their biological lifecycle. This is a long cultivation period, and if grown from seed, the plants can take a whole year or more to flower, but it is sure worth the wait! And, if they are happy where they are sited Canterbury bells will re-seed themselves in the garden.

If you are impatient, you may on occasion see the plants available in nursery pots or trays. Snap them up, as these more established plants will flower sooner.

In their first year of growth the plants form a low rosette of green leaves, and only in the following spring and early summer will the upright flowering stems appear. Each stem bears loads of large dangling bells, and the flowering stems can reach +-70 to 80cm in height, making them a perfect background plant for the flower border.  

Uses:

Beekeepers sometimes use Canterbury bells for making potently sweet honey.

In the Garden:

Canterbury bells love cooler gardens and when in full bloom they will add grace and elegance to any garden, but are a ‘must-have’ for all country and cottage gardens. They are indispensable for adding vertical interest to the annual and perennial flower garden and wonderful as an under-planting for Roses. Try planting them with delphiniums, hollyhocks and snapdragons around borders and fences for a breath-taking display. They can also add spectacular height to large, mixed container plantings.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Although modern hybrids have been bred which are shorter, with a more compact growth habit, and which do not require cold days to bloom, allowing gardeners to sow seed in spring, summer or autumn, these are not freely available in South Africa, and the old and trusted Canterbury Bells ‘Cup and Saucer’ is still the most readily available variety from seed suppliers.

In South Africa the ‘Cup and Saucer’ variety is generally sown in spring, or in late summer and autumn, to flower in their second year after sowing. The plants require cold, short days, followed by long days, for flowering. So if you want Canterbury bells in your garden every season, you need to sow or plant them out each season.

Canterbury bells prefer reasonably cold winter temperatures and are hardy to frost. They love full sun but will also grow in light shade, and in hotter regions some midday or afternoon shade would be appreciated. Canterbury bells thrive in regions with good summer rainfall and are not suited to very hot, dry or humid regions. Try to plant them in a part of the garden that is protected from strong winds, or the plants will require staking.

The tiny seeds are usually sown directly into well-prepared garden beds, but can also be sown into seedling trays. They will germinate best in soil temperatures between 15 and 20°C, and only require minimal covering with soil, as the seeds need light to germinate. Germination is easy and will take place within 8 to 14 days. When the seedlings develop their first true leaves, they must be thinned out to space them about 30 to 40cm apart.

Canterbury bells will tolerate a wide range of soil types as long as they drain well. Plant them in good, deep, well-drained soil and water regularly, especially during dry spells. Cutting out the dead flowers regularly will often encourage a second flush of flowers.

Canterbury bells will often re-seed themselves in the garden, and you can collect and save the seed for next season. In this case, do not cut back the spent flowers, and allow them to seed themselves, or collect and hang the stems upside-down in a paper bag until the heads are completely dry. Remove the seeds and store in an airtight container until next season.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Watch out for snails and slugs. Powdery mildews and rust diseases may be a problem, especially in moist, warm and humid weather. These can be controlled with an appropriate natural fungicide.

Warning:

Campanula medium is listed as non-toxic to humans, dogs, cats and horses.

Always supervise small children in the garden and discourage them from chewing on plants.

Condensed VersionImage by Kerstin Riemer from Pixabay:

Throughout winter and spring English daisies produce masses of tightly quilled, single, or double flowers, which stand above the fresh, bright-green leaves. The blooms come in shades of pink, white and rosy red, with cheerful yellow centres, and will bloom continuously for weeks on end. English daisies are neat, compact plants, growing about 15 to 20cm tall, making them superb edging plants for pathways and flower borders, and also for pots.

In South Africa they are grown throughout the country as winter and spring flowering annuals. English daisies are easy to grow, and will adapt to most garden soil types, even heavy clay soils, as long as they are well-drained. For best results, provide a moist, fertile and well-drained soil by preparing the beds well by digging them over and adding organic material like compost, and a dressing of bone meal.

In pots they can be planted together with other compatible bulbs and annuals in good potting soil. All plants growing in pots will require more frequent watering and feeding than those growing in garden beds and many gardeners prefer to use liquid fertilisers to avoid over fertilising or burning their plants. 

In moist soils they love to grow in full sun, but they will take some shade, and in dry winter regions where the days can still get quite hot, some shade will keep them blooming for longer.  Although English daisies love moist soils they have average water needs, so water regularly, but do not overwater.

English daisies are available in seedling trays from garden centres, which is often most convenient and quick for smaller gardens, but they also grow easily from seed sown directly into well prepared beds, or seedling trays, when the soil temperatures are between 15 to 25°C. Cover the seeds lightly (2mm) and if you are sowing into trays, keep them in a cool, bright place until germination takes place. Germination times can vary according to conditions, taking anything from 3 to 20 days. Once the seedlings have their first true leaves they can be thinned out to space them 15 to 20cm apart. Flowering should start about 90 to 100 days after sowing.

To keep them blooming, it is most important to cut out the dead flower heads regularly. If the soil was prepared well, additional feeding may not be necessary, but if you have planted them in garden beds between bulbs or other annuals, English daisies can be fed along with your other winter and spring flowering plants.

Image by Hus16 from PixabayFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

English daisies remain extremely popular garden plants, not only for their charm but also because they are so unfussy and easy to grow. Throughout winter and spring they never fail to delight with their masses of tightly quilled, single, or double flowers, which stand above the fresh, bright-green leaves. The blooms come in shades of pink, white and rosy red, with cheerful yellow centres, and will bloom continuously for weeks on end. English daisies are neat, compact plants, growing about 15 to 20cm tall, making them superb edging plants for pathways and flower borders, and also for pots. Like other daisies, it exhibits the phenomenon of heliotropism, where the flowers follow the position of the sun in the sky.

The English daisy is a common native of western, central and northern Europe, including remote islands such as Faroe Island. It grows in abundance in meadows where it flowers for much of the year, and is also called the "lawn daisy" as it habitually colonises lawns, and is difficult to eradicate by mowing. English daisies are truly so pretty - even the Genus name “bellis” comes from the Latin word “bellus”, meaning pretty; and the garden hybrids we know and love today were developed from this robust and hardy plant. In most temperate regions, including the Americas and Australasia, it has escaped garden cultivation and has become naturalised.

Health benefits:

The medicinal properties of the daisy were recorded as far back as the 16th century, when an English botanist, John Gerard, who had a large herbal garden in London, documented the medicinal properties of daisies in his book “Gerard's Herbal”. Today daisies remain a popular home remedy with a wide range of applications. The herb is mildly anodyne, antispasmodic, antitussive, demulcent, digestive, emollient, expectorant, laxative, ophthalmic, purgative and tonic.

Traditionally daisies are well-known as a “fresh wound herb”, and the flowers and leaves can be used fresh in decoctions, ointments and poultices for treating wounds, bruises, and also boils. Today the plant is harvested when in flower and is used as a homeopathic remedy which is especially indicated for the treatment of bruising.

The fresh or dried flowering heads are used to make an infusion to use as a blood purifier, or to ease complaints of the respiratory tract, including coughs, as well as for the treatment of catarrh, rheumatism, arthritis, liver and kidney disorders. Chewing the fresh leaves is said to be a cure for mouth ulcers.

Always seek advice from a professional before using a plant medicinally.

Uses:

The leaves flowers and buds of this daisy may be used as a potherb. Young leaves can be eaten raw in salads or cooked, although their flavour has been described as somewhat acrid by some people, and pleasantly sour according to others. Flower buds and petals can be eaten raw in sandwiches, soups and salads. Even though the leaves and flowers are edible the plant is mostly used as a medicinal herb

In the Garden:

English daisies are excellent anywhere in the garden, growing easily in pots and window boxes, and adding some magic to woodland or pebble gardens. They are great bedding plants and striking when planted in flower borders or alongside pathways. They are perfect companions for pansies and violas, or to interplant with winter and spring flowering bulbs, and in large gardens and parks they are often planted in mass together with Dutch Iris, tulips or daffodils. An added bonus is that English daisies will attract butterflies to the garden, providing vital nectar when food is scarce.

Image by Goran Horvat from PixabayCultivation/Propagation:

In their native habitats English daisies thrive in cool, moist climates, where they are perennial plants which bloom in summer, or even sporadically throughout the year. However, in hot and sunny South Africa they are grown throughout the country as winter and spring flowering annuals. Because they love moisture, these daisies thrive in the winter rainfall regions, and because they do not do well in high heat and humidity, in subtropical regions they are grown during the coolest months. In the cooler mist belt regions of the country blooming will continue into summer.

English daisies are easy to grow, and will adapt to most garden soil types, even heavy clay soils, as long as they are well-drained, growing in acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils. For best results, provide a moist, fertile and well-drained soil by preparing the beds well by digging them over and adding organic material like compost, and a dressing of bone meal.

In pots they can be planted together with other compatible bulbs and annuals in good potting soil. All plants growing in pots will require more frequent watering and feeding than those growing in garden beds and many gardeners prefer to use liquid fertilisers to avoid over fertilising or burning their plants.  

In moist soils they love to grow in full sun, but they will take some shade, and in dry winter regions where the days can still get quite hot, some shade will keep them blooming for longer.  Although English daisies love moist soils they have average water needs, so water regularly, but do not overwater.

English daisies are available in seedling trays from garden centres, which is often most convenient and quick for smaller gardens, but they also grow easily from seed sown directly into well prepared beds, or seedling trays, when the soil temperatures are between 15 to 25°C. Cover the seeds lightly (2mm) and if you are sowing into trays, keep them in a cool, bright place until germination takes place. Germination times can vary according to conditions, taking anything from 3 to 20 days. Once the seedlings have their first true leaves they can be thinned out to space them 15 to 20cm apart. Flowering should start about 90 to 100 days after sowing.

To keep them blooming, it is most important to cut out the dead flower heads regularly. If the soil was prepared well, additional feeding may not be necessary, but if you have planted them in garden beds between bulbs or other annuals, English daisies can be fed along with your other winter and spring flowering plants.

If left to self-seed in the garden, the double forms will quickly revert back to ordinary single forms.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Generally daisies have no known serious insect or disease problems but may have some problems with root-knot nematodes (galls) and rust.

Warning:

Daisies can cause contact dermatitis in people who are allergic, but generally pose little to no toxicity risk to humans though it is always advisable to supervise babies and small children in the garden.

Some daisies, such as the gerber or Barberton daisy, are not toxic at all while many others contain several toxins that are all dangerous to your pet. The common or English daisy (Bellis perennis) and the poison daisy (Anthemis cotula) are two varieties that are poisonous to dogs, cats and horses. The symptoms of daisy poisoning in animals include contact dermatitis, vomiting, diarrhoea, anorexia, allergic reactions, and prolonged bleeding. If a pet ingests daisies, it is important to call a veterinarian immediately.

These most common daisies contain several poisonous substances including pyrethroids, which are used to make insecticides like flea medication. This can lead to serious problems in your dog if it consumes a large amount of daisies after recently being treated for fleas with medication or shampoo that contains pyrethrins or pyrethroids. Your dog can normally metabolize a small amount of these chemicals which are in the flea treatment, but paired with the natural chemicals in the daisy it can lead to a serious toxic reaction.

Sesquiterpene is another substance found in many daisies that can cause intestinal upset and skin irritation.

Ageratum 'Lilac'Condensed Version:

This little summer annual grows quickly to +-15 to 20cm tall and 15cm wide, and remains an old favourite with gardeners because it blooms nonstop all summer and into autumn, and is available in lovely pastel shades of blue, lavender, pink, and white.

Ageratum grows well in all South Africa’s growing regions and tolerates wind. They will also grow in semi-shade to full sun, and are not fussy about soil as long as it is fertile and well-drained.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

This little summer annual belongs to the daisy family and is native to Central America and the West Indies. It remains an old favourite with gardeners because its fluffy clusters of flowers bloom nonstop all summer and into autumn.  Flower shades are lovely pastels in blue, lavender, pink, and white, and the hairy, dark green, heart-shaped leaves are also attractive. Ageratum grows quickly, maturing +-15 to 20cm tall and 15cm wide.

Ageratum 'White'In the Garden:

Their long-flowering period makes ageratum ideal for rock gardens, as well as great edging plants and fillers for flower borders. Mixed with other flowering annuals or perennials, they will add texture to the planting, and their soft pastel shades compliment almost any colour scheme.

They also look great planted in masses of one colour and are most attractive when paired with silver foliaged plants.

Petunias and many other low growing annuals look great next to ageratum; and contrasting coloured flowers such as Rudbeckia or tall Marigolds, planted behind ageratum create a pleasant colour combination.

Ageratum grows easily in containers, filling in the gaps between other flowers beautifully. Taller growing cultivars make excellent cut flowers; and an added bonus is they attract butterflies to the garden.

Cultivation:

Ageratum grows well in all South Africa’s growing regions and tolerates wind.

It grows in full sun to semi-shade, but in very hot and dry summer regions the plants will appreciate some shade during the hottest time of the day.

They are not fussy about soil as long as it is fertile and well-drained, requiring only regular watering and the removal of weeds for good growth.

Removing the old flowers regularly will promote continuous blooming.

Propagation:

Ageratum seeds are sown into seedling trays and require warmth; germinating best in soil temperatures of 25 to 28°C; with a minimum of 21°C. Do not cover the seed as light is needed for germination, which will take 5 to 10 days. The plants will bloom in about 13 to 15 weeks after sowing.

Ageratum may also be propagated by cuttings.

Pests & Diseases:

Ageratum is relatively disease and bug resistant, but during hot, dry spells spider mites can attack. To prevent spider mite infestations, mist the plants during dry spells with water, especially underneath the leaves or spray with a suitable insecticide.

In humid conditions powdery mildew can develop and to help prevent this try to water at root level and not overhead, to keep the leaves dry. Also, correct spacing of the plants will ensure a good air flow around the leaves of the plants, helping to prevent mildew outbreaks. If necessary, spray with an appropriate fungicide.

Badly damaged plants can be cut right down and should regrow and flower again.

Warning:

Ageratum does not appear in databases for poisonous plants, but many websites warn it is toxic to cattle. In some people it may cause skin problems if handled a lot, so wear gloves if you are sensitive. 

Red Hot Sally Improved Salvia. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural Company Description:

These perennial plants are native to Brazil and perform well in hot gardens as long as they can be watered regularly. In South Africa they are grown as summer flowering annuals, and  will flower all summer and autumn.

Salvia splendens is available in vibrantly coloured flower spikes, from bright red to pink, purple, scarlet, rose, cream and white.

Tall and dwarf varieties are available ranging in height from 15 to 90cm tall.

In the Garden:

The taller varieties will add accent to flowerbeds, and the dwarf varieties make excellent border plants and work well in containers, mixed with other summer flowering annuals.

Click here to find beautiful flowering perennial Salvias

Cultivation/Propagation:

Salvia is tender to frost and grows easily as a summer annual throughout South Africa, except for those very humid regions.

It can be plated in full sun or light shade in composted, well-drained soil. In areas with very hot summers plant them where they receive partial shade, especially in the afternoon.

Cut your plants back after each flush of flowers and new growth will soon emerge, keeping them blooming continually.

Salvia's are very easy-to-grow and can be sown directly into well-prepared garden beds or seedling trays in spring and summer. Seed will germinate best in soil temperatures between 20 and 25°C. Cover the seed with soil or coarse vermiculite.

Germination will take place within 10 to 14 days and the seedlings will bloom about 13 to 15 weeks after sowing.

Carefree Mix Coleus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyCondensed Version:

Coleus is cultivated in shady gardens worldwide because it is durable, easy to grow, and amongst the most magnificent foliage plants the plant kingdom has to offer. It can even be grow as an indoor pot plant. Hybridization has produced an almost infinite number of leaf shapes and colour combinations, which include most colours of the spectrum, except true blue. Compact, dwarf varieties have been bred and there is even a trailing coleus. New introductions have also been selected for increased sun and heat tolerance.

Coleus is a good-natured plant that is pretty hard to kill and quite easy to propagate. It grows well throughout South Africa but is not ideally suited to very dry regions, unless it can be watered abundantly. Coleus thrives in subtropical seaside gardens provided it is protected from wind and is watered regularly. In subtropical regions coleus is treated as a short-lived perennial which can be grown all year round, but because it is sensitive to frost, in cold areas it is grown as a summer annual.

Most varieties prefer bright semi-shade and good, moist, well-drained soil. Plants grown in too much sun may wilt, and those grown in too much shade may become leggy. Never allow the soil dry out totally between watering, but do not allow it to become waterlogged either. Although coleus flowers are quite pretty, their true beauty is in their soft, velvety leaves, and most gardeners remove the flowering spikes, and occasionally pinch back the growth tips in order to encourage more bushy leaf growth.

Wizard Series Coleus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Coleus is cultivated in shady gardens worldwide because it is durable, easy to grow, and amongst the most magnificent foliage plants the plant kingdom has to offer. This native of India (including the Himalayas), Sri Lanka, China, Burma, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia and Australia, belongs to the mint family, and can be found at elevations of 100 to 1,600m, where it flowers and fruits throughout the year.

The species was first introduced into Europe from Java in 1851 by a Dutch horticulturalist. At this time, there were few leaf colours and shapes, but by 1877 a wider selection became available when the American William Bull offered seeds at 43 US cents each. Coleus breeding continued into the early 1940s, and by the 1980s the availability of an improved range of cultivars led to coleus becoming the tenth most important bedding crop in the United States.

Hybridization continues to this day and has produced an almost infinite number of leaf shapes and colour combinations, which include most colours of the spectrum, except true blue. Compact, dwarf varieties have been bred and there is even a trailing coleus. New introductions have also been selected for increased sun and heat tolerance.

Watermelon Coleus. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyIn the Garden & Home:

Coleus is one of the brightest annuals for semi-shade, livening up any corner of the garden they are planted in. They make a striking display if massed in shady garden beds, and the lower growing dwarf varieties will create a colourful border, while the taller types provide a dramatic background planting.

Coleus is also the perfect container candidate, with the larger varieties making a striking backdrop in oversized mixed containers, and the smaller ones bringing accent and long-lasting colour to any potted planting, so fill your balcony boxes, hanging baskets and any spare containers with them.

The plants are also often grown indoors in a bright, warm room, growing very easily if they are watered well.

Cultivation:

Coleus is a good-natured plant that is pretty hard to kill and quite easy to propagate. It grows well throughout South Africa but is not ideally suited to very dry regions, unless it can be watered abundantly. Coleus thrives in subtropical seaside gardens provided it is protected from wind and is watered regularly. In subtropical regions coleus is treated as a short-lived perennial which can be grown all year round, but because it is sensitive to frost, in cold areas it is grown as a summer annual.

Most varieties prefer bright semi-shade and good, moist, well-drained soil. Plants grown in too much sun may wilt, and those grown in too much shade may become leggy. Never allow the soil dry out totally between watering, but do not allow it to become waterlogged either. Although coleus flowers are quite pretty, their true beauty is in their soft, velvety leaves, and most gardeners remove the flowering spikes, and occasionally pinch back the growth tips in order to encourage more bushy leaf growth.

To grow coleus as an indoor pot plant, place your plant in a warm room which provides bright light, including a couple of hours of direct sunlight, if possible. Spindly growth is an indication of insufficient light, and the plant will need to be moved to a brighter position. Coleus requires plenty of water all season and will quickly wilt if allowed to dry out completely. It also loves humidity, so to increase humidity around the plant, stand the pot on top of a drip tray filled with small pebbles and keep the saucer filled with water, but ensure that the pot is not standing in the water. Nip out the growing tips and flowers regularly to keep the plant neat and bushy, and apply a liquid fertiliser about every two weeks throughout the season. Discard the plants at the end of the growing season, as it is better to plant a new, vigorous plant each summer.

Propagation:

Growing a Coleus collection from seed is really quite quick and easy, and the seeds are inexpensive and readily available. They germinate fast and will be showing their first colours in as little as two to three weeks. Another advantage to growing your Coleus this way, is that each packet of seeds will contain many different colours of plants.

Seeds can be sown in seedling trays or very well-prepared garden beds, and germinate best in soil temperatures between 21 and 24°C. The seeds need some light to germinate so avoid covering them - simply sprinkle them onto the surface of the soil and press them down. In garden beds, keep the soil uniformly moist, and in seedling trays, to keep humidity high cover the trays with plastic or glass until germination, which normally occurs within 6 to 14 days.  When the seedlings are large enough to handle easily, they should be thinned out and transplanted into individual pots.

Propagating coleus with softwood cuttings is even easier than growing them from seed, and cuttings retain the exact characteristics as the parent plant, enabling you to clone your favourite colours. Cuttings can be taken anytime of the year and root easily in a glass of water or in moist perlite.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Coleus is a relatively carefree annual if it is happy where it is growing, but protect young plants from snails and slugs, and watch out for mealybugs, aphids, spider mites and whiteflies, especially if they are grown in an enclosed area like a courtyard, or are growing under a roof or overhang. If the soil does not drain well, and the weather becomes warm and moist, coleus is susceptible to fungal root and stem rot, and downy mildew.

Warning:

Coleus plants are not poisonous to humans and eating or touching them is unlikely to cause illness. However, the plant and sap can cause a reaction in sensitive people, resulting in minor skin irritation, and if eaten, this irritation may occur in the mouth and throat. For this reason it is best to keep them away from children.

They are toxic to pets, and if a dog or cat eats the plant it could cause symptoms such as diarrhoea, vomiting, depression and loss of appetite. If you suspect your pet has eaten this plant, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Description, History & Interesting FaNicotiana Nicki. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural Companycts:

This family of annuals and perennials is the source of the tobacco leaf. The flowers of the original flowering tobacco are very fragrant and open at night.

Modern hybrids remain open all day, but are not always so fragrant or have no fragrance at all. What a pity that many new gardeners may never know the old fashioned flowering tobacco with its heady fragrance.

The modern hybrids are more compact growing and are free flowering for a long period in summer. The petals of the tubular flowers form a beautiful five-pointed star and are available in red, pale yellow, pink, lilac, burgundy, lime, green, and cream and white.

Modern garden hybrids vary in height from 30 to 45cm tall.

In the Garden:

These shady garden classics are essential in cottage gardens.

They are excellent cut flowers and attractive in border plantings, because their soft colours mix well with other perennials and annuals.

The dwarf varieties are lovely in pots. 

Nicotiana 'Red'Cultivation/Propagation:

These tough plants tolerate humidity and high temperatures, and they grow well throughout South Africa in summer as long as they can be watered regularly and are protected from strong wind.

They love to grow in semi-shade but will take some sun in cool regions. Plant them where they will receive full midday and afternoon shade in very hot areas.

They love rich, moist, well-drained soil and must be watered regularly.

Cutting back the old flower stalks after the first flush of blooms will encourage more flowers.

Sonata Carmine Cosmos. Picture courtesy Ball Horticural CompanyCondensed Version:

The Mexican Cosmos is a tall, bushy annual growing between 1 and 2.5m high, with very finely divided mid-green leaves, and large pink or white flowers. Plant breeders have been hard at work, and today this cosmos comes in many named selections which include single, semi-double or fully double blooms in a variety of awesome colours ranging from lilac to deep carmine, scarlet red, and even peachy-pink and pale yellow.

These new hybrids flower very profusely and for much longer, and exciting new dwarf varieties are also available which are extremely compact, and because they only grow 30 to 50cm tall, are suitable for even the smallest gardens and grow beautifully in pots - even if you only have a sunny balcony, you can grow at least one!

The yellow cosmos called "Bright Lights" is also known as Sulphur Cosmos and Yellow Cosmos. It is freely available and remains popular, not only for its ease of growth, but also for its lacy foliage and profusion of brilliant flowers in shades of orange, yellow, and flame-red, blooming from early summer until the first frosts.

Modern cosmos hybrids are compact, easy-to-grow and very free-flowering cut flowers. To flower well they require full sun and moderately fertile soil which drains well - if the soil is too rich and fertile they will not perform as well. This makes them ideal to grow in many of the drier summer rainfall regions of the country where the soils are less than perfect. In the winter rainfall regions, they will require regular summer watering, and in very humid regions they are susceptible to fungal diseases, although newer hybrids will tolerate more humidity.

Potted plants and trays of seedlings are available from garden centres, which can be planted out at any time, making them very handy for small gardens and containers, but gardeners on a budget prefer to sow the seeds directly where they are to grow, in late spring. Besides moderate watering during dry spells, cosmos will need not further attention or feeding.

Cosmos Dark Pink & WhiteFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Cosmos are beautiful summer flowering annuals native to Mexico, where most of the species occur, as well as the United States, as far north as the Olympic Peninsula in Washington; and Central and South America, as far south as Paraguay. One species, the commonly called “Mexican Aster” (Cosmos bipinnatus) escaped gardens and naturalized itself across much of the eastern United States and eastern Canada, growing abundantly on disturbed land besides roads, and in fields and waste areas. It is also widespread over the high eastern plains of South Africa, where it was introduced via contaminated horse feed imported from Argentina during the Anglo-Boer War. In South Africa they flower religiously around Easter time, transforming open fields and roadways with their masses of flowers, and the flowering can continue until the first frosts.

Spanish priests grew cosmos in their mission gardens in Mexico, and it was their perfect, evenly placed petals which led them to christen the flower "Cosmos," the Greek word for harmony or ordered universe. Although there are 20 known species of cosmos, two annual species, the commonly called Yellow Cosmos (Cosmos sulphurous) and the Mexican cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) are most familiar to home gardeners, and easy to tell apart.  

The Mexican cosmos is a tall, bushy annual growing between 1 and 2m high, with very finely divided mid-green leaves, and large pink or white flowers with a central disc of tightly clustered, usually yellow, inner disc florets. Plant breeders have been hard at work, and today this cosmos comes in many named selections which include single, semi-double or fully double blooms in a variety of awesome colours ranging from lilac to deep carmine, scarlet red, and even peachy-pink and pale yellow. These new hybrids flower very profusely and for much longer, and exciting new dwarf varieties are also available which are extremely compact, and because they only grow 30 to 50cm tall, are suitable for even the smallest gardens and grow beautifully in pots - even if you only have a sunny balcony, you can grow at least one!

(Cosmos bipinnatus 'Antiquity')

'Antiquity' is a good example of a new and beautiful dwarf variety of cosmos with rich burgundy coloured flowers that change to antique bronze and salmon with age. This little gem may only grow about 38cm tall, but makes up for its lack in stature with its masses of flowers.  It is also a tough garden performer that tolerates poor soil, heat and humidity.

(Cosmos sulphureus 'Bright Lights')

'Bright Lights' is also known as 'Sulphur Cosmos' and 'Yellow Cosmos'. It is freely available and remains popular, not only for its ease of growth, but also for its lacy foliage and profusion of brilliant flowers in shades of orange, yellow, and flame-red, blooming from early summer until the first frosts. It loves full sun, tolerates humidity and grows quickly to a height of 90cm, and like other cosmos, thrives on poor soils.

Cosmos bipinnatus 'Antiquity' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofIn the Garden:

Because cosmos is non-toxic and so easy to grow, it is recommended for children’s gardens. It is also safe around dogs and cats.

Modern cosmos hybrids are compact, easy-to-grow and very free-flowering. They also last well in a vase, and the more you pick them, the more they will bloom, attracting butterflies, bees and other beneficial insect pollinators to the garden.

The taller varieties make a wonderful background plant for the flower garden and are marvellous in wild meadow and cottage gardens. Dwarf strains are perfectly charming if planted as borders and thrive in containers, making them perfect for brightening up patios, balconies and courtyard gardens.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Modern cosmos hybrids are compact, easy to grow and very free-flowering, but to flower well they require full sun and moderately fertile soil which drains well - if the soil is too rich and fertile they will not perform as well. This makes them ideal to grow in many of the drier summer rainfall regions of the country where the soils are less than perfect. In the winter rainfall regions, they will require regular summer watering, and in very humid regions they are susceptible to fungal diseases, although newer hybrids will tolerate more humidity.

Potted plants and seedling trays are available from garden centres, which can be planted out at any time, making them very handy for small gardens and containers, but gardeners on a budget prefer to sow the seeds directly where they are to grow, in late spring. Germination should take place within 4 to 7 days in ideal soil temperatures between 18 and 21°C. Lightly cover the seeds with soil, and thin out the small seedlings to space them correctly - check the plant label or seed packet.

Cosmos grows quickly, and modern hybrids can start blooming within 10 to 12 weeks after sowing, but in some climates, cosmos sown in spring may not come into full bloom until the days become shorter in late summer.

Besides moderate watering during dry spells cosmos will need no further attention or feeding, besides keeping the beds free of weeds. Cutting flowers for the vase, and deadheading spent flowers regularly will prolong flowering, but at the end of the season leave a few seed heads to ripen and self-seed, or collect and store for next season.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

If grown correctly cosmos suffer from no serious insect or disease problems, but may occasionally be attacked by aphids or red spider mites, which can be treated with insecticide soaps or other appropriate insecticides.

During moist, warm weather, and in humid regions, they can be susceptible to powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.

Caution:

Cosmos is a lovely non-toxic flower which is recommended for children’s gardens, and is also safe around cats and dogs.

Portulaca 'Pink Stripe'Description:

This family of plants consists of mainly succulent herbs and has about 40 species, of which eight occur in southern Africa. They are also native to Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, and throughout the warmer parts of the world.

Portulaca grandiflora is native to Brazil and one of a very few annual succulents that are popular summer annuals around the world. 

Their masses of double; brilliant jewel-toned blooms are available in shades of rose, pink, red, purple, lavender, yellow, orange and white, and are often striped or spotted with contrasting colours.

In the Garden:

Portulaca 'Yellow'Because they don't require a lot of water and have no real pest problems; working really well in a xeriscape (dry) garden setting.

These prostrate, spreading plants have an upright, mounding habit, making them a perfect rockery or pebble garden plant and an ideal groundcover or border plant for hot flower beds.

Their trailing habit makes them great performers in hanging basket or mixed containers. Allow them to spill over pots for months of hassle free colour.

Cultivation/Propagation:

Portulaca 'Red'Portulaca grows well throughout South Africa, especially in the winter rainfall regions but does not do well in very high summer rainfall regions.

Plant them into the garden when all danger of frost is over.

They must be planted in full sun because the flowers only open in the sun and will close at night and on cloudy days.

They grow well in poor, sandy or gravelly soils but will grow in any soil as long as it drains well.

Although they are drought hardy, they will respond well to moderate but regular watering during hot, dry spells.

The seedlings will grow quickly to about 10 to 15cm tall and 30cm wide and require no deadheading.

Portulaca 'White'The seeds are as tiny as dust, so mix them with sand before sowing to make them easier to scatter. Seeds can be sown in seedling trays or directly into well-prepared garden beds in spring and summer.

They germinate best in warm soil temperatures between 24 and 26°C. The seeds need light to germinate so do not cover them. Germination takes 2 to 4 days in ideal temperatures but will take longer in cooler soil.

The plants will flower about 12 to 14 weeks after sowing.

Place the seedling trays in a bright, warm place as Portulaca is very sensitive to cool temperatures and low- light levels. In warm climates it may self-seed itself in the garden.

Condensed Version:Begonia 'Baby Wings' Pink. Picture courtesy Ball Straathof

Begonias are available as small compact plants which are perfect for flower borders, and the taller growing types are great in the middle of the flower border. The large upright or trailing types are stunning in containers and hanging baskets, as well as in garden beds.

Begonia ‘Rex’ and Begonia 'Gryphon' are grown for their colourful tropical-looking leaves, which often have amazing patterns, and Begonia x tuberhybrida are grown for their beautiful flowers. These begonias are popular house plants but in warm, frost-free areas they thrive in garden beds and in pots on secluded patios.

Garden begonias are available in various shapes and sizes, and the flowers come in many beautiful single or bi-coloured shades of pink, white, red, orange, and yellow. They will flower all season long, until the first frosts, and in warm climates they can bloom all year round, and their attractive waxy leaves, which can be green or bronze, are an added bonus.

In frost-free and subtropical climates many types of begonias can go on and on for years and are grown as evergreen bi-annual or perennial plants, which are pruned down when they have finished blooming to encourage bushiness and re-blooming. In cold climates which experience frost in winter begonias are treated as summer annuals, but the bigger growing types can be overwintered in large pots, or in sheltered parts of the garden.

Although begonias will grow in quite a lot of shade they flower best in positions where they receive dappled or bright shade, in deep shade they become leggy and less floriferous. Varieties with green leaves will tolerate more shade than those with bronze leaves.

Plant them in rich, well-drained soil, and water regularly, but don’t over water. Try not to wet the leaves if they get morning sun as this can burn them. Begonias are heavy feeders and for those growing in garden beds a regular fertilising every 4 to 6 weeks with water soluble fertilisers for flowering plants, mixed at half the recommended strength, will keep them blooming beautifully. Potted plants will need more frequent feeding, either monthly or fortnightly. Frequent pinching back of the plants results in fuller plants and also encourages more blooms.

Although they look at their best when watered regularly, once established, begonias can tolerate mild drought conditions due to the reserves in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. In the very hot summer months it is important to mulch around the plants as this helps to keep the roots cool and significantly reduces evaporation.

Space the plants correctly to allow good air flow between them as this will reduce the chance of any diseases taking hold of the plant.

Begonia 'Big' Bronze Leaf Rose. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Begonias are truly the backbone of the flower garden and are very free-flowering. They are available as small compact plants which are perfect for flower borders, and the taller growing types are great in the middle of the flower border. The large upright or trailing types are stunning in containers and hanging baskets, as well as in garden beds.

Begonia ‘Rex’ and Begonia 'Gryphon' are grown for their colourful tropical-looking leaves, which often have amazing patterns, and Begonia x tuberhybrida are grown for their beautiful flowers. These begonias are popular house plants but in warm, frost-free areas they thrive in garden beds and in pots on secluded patios.

Garden begonias are available in various shapes and sizes, and the flowers come in many beautiful single or bi-coloured shades of pink, white, red, orange, and yellow. They will flower all season long, until the first frosts, and in warm climates they can bloom all year round, and their attractive waxy leaves, which can be green or bronze, are an added bonus.

Begonias belong to the Begoniaceae family and there are over 1,500 known species of annuals, perennials, shrubs and climbers. They are native to the moist, tropical and subtropical regions of all the continents, except for Australia

Bedding Begonia, Wax Begonia (Begonia semperflorens)

Begonia 'Bossa Nova' Formula Mix. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofThese popular, compact plants grow +-20 to 25cm tall and have beautiful green or bronze foliage. The flowers vary in size, depending on the variety, and can be white or various shades of pink and red, and many are available with bicoloured flowers. The Latin name “semperflorens” means ever-flowering, as they bloom from late spring to the first frosts, and in frost-free regions they can bloom almost all year. In cold, frosty gardens they are planted as summer annuals.

They vary in size, and the very compact dwarf types can be used as an edging for flower beds and do well in pots and hanging baskets. The larger varieties can grow +-30 to 40cm tall and can be used to fill in the middle section a flower bed, and if planted in large groups they create a wonderful, long lasting show of colour.

Begonia ‘Baby Wings’

These little upright mounded plants are summer annuals which grow +-38cm tall and 30cm wide. They are available in various shades of pink, red and white and the foliage can be green or bronze. Because they are extremely heat tolerant and stand up well in stressful conditions, they are ideal for both garden beds and containers.

Begonia 'Dragon Wings' Pink. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofBegonia ‘Planet’

This selection of summer annuals has a mixture of bronze and green-leaved varieties, and these little upright, mounded plants grow +-38cm tall and 30cm wide. They are available in various shades of pink, red and white, and because they are extremely heat tolerant and stand up well in stressful conditions, they are ideal for both garden beds and containers.

Begonia RL ‘Eris’

These annual begonias have bronze leaves and are perfect partners to the green-leaved Ceres begonias, putting on a season-long show of colour. The little upright, mounded plants grow +-25cm tall and 20cm wide, and are available in various shades of pink, red, and white.

Begonia GL 'Ceres’

This annual begonia has green leaves and is smothered in blooms all season long. It is a perfect partner for the bronze-leaved Eris begonias. It is specifically selected for South African conditions and grows +-25cm tall and 20cm wide.

Begonia ‘Sprint Plus’

This annual begonia has green leaves and flowers profusely all summer long. It is the most uniform Begonia semperflorens series on the market and is available in gorgeous single colours and bi-colours, in shades of pink, red, orange and white.

Begonia GL 'Ceres' Pink. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofBegonia ‘Big’

This summer annual is a stunning landscape begonia which boasts both bronze and green-leaf varieties for a colourful show, and its large 5 to 7cm flowers are held above the glossy leaves on upright arching plants, +-60cm tall and 38cm wide. The large flowers come in shades of pink and red, making a bold statement in the garden when planted in large drifts, and are stunning in large containers and hanging baskets.

Begonia ‘Megawatt’

This bi-annual with its lush foliage and pink or red flowers grows +-71cm tall and is available in green or bronze-leaved varieties. It performs well in the heat and flowers non-stop throughout summer, making it perfect for garden beds, containers and hanging baskets. 

Begonia ‘Dragon Wings’

This bi-annual begonia is a classic garden favourite with its green leaves and gorgeous red or pink flowers, and it delivers excellent garden performance across a wide range of conditions. It grows to a height of +-38cm with a spread of 45cm, and its beautifully arching, pendulous habit makes it perfect for hanging baskets and containers, as well as garden beds.

Begonia 'Megawatt' Red Bronze Leaf. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofBegonia ‘Bossa Nova’

Bring the bright colours of carnival to your containers with Bossa Nova. It is available in both bronze and green-leaved varieties and is very free-flowering with a bright range of colours like orange, red, rose pink, yellow, and white. This well branched cascading annual grows +-40cm tall 50cm wide and looks amazing in a large container or hanging basket, either singly or as part of a combo.

Rhizomatous begonias like Begonia ‘Rex’ and Begonia 'Gryphon' are grown for their colourful tropical-looking leaves, which often have amazing patterns, and Begonia x tuberhybrida is grown for its beautiful flowers.

The begonias below are popular house plants but can be grown outdoors in frost-free regions in a secluded, shady garden bed, or in pots on a patio. 

Members can click here to read more about Begonia Rex.

Members can click here to read more about Begonia 'Gryphon'

Members can click here to read more about Begonia x tuberhybrida

Cultivation:

Begonia 'Planet' Mix. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofIn frost-free and subtropical climates many types of begonias can go on and on for years and are grown as evergreen bi-annual or perennial plants, which are pruned down when they have finished blooming to encourage bushiness and re-blooming. In cold climates which experience frost in winter begonias are treated as summer annuals, but the bigger growing types can be overwintered in large pots, or in sheltered parts of the garden.

Although begonias will grow in quite a lot of shade they flower best in positions where they receive dappled or bright shade, in deep shade they become leggy and less floriferous. Varieties with green leaves will tolerate more shade than those with bronze leaves

Plant them in rich, well-drained soil, and water regularly, but don’t over water. Try not to wet the leaves if they get morning sun as this can burn them. Begonias are heavy feeders and for those growing in garden beds a regular fertilising every 4 to 6 weeks with water soluble fertilisers for flowering plants, mixed at half the recommended strength, will keep them blooming beautifully. Potted plants will need more frequent feeding, either monthly or fortnightly. Frequent pinching back of the plants results in fuller plants and also encourages more blooms.

Begonia 'Sprint Plus' Orange Bicolour. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofAlthough they look at their best when watered regularly, once established, begonias can tolerate mild drought conditions due to the reserves in their thick, fleshy stems and leaves. In the very hot summer months it is important to mulch around the plants as this helps to keep the roots cool and significantly reduces evaporation.

Space the plants correctly to allow good air flow between them as this will reduce the chance of any diseases taking hold of the plant.

Propagation:

Many types like the bedding varieties can be grown from seed but the easiest way to propagate begonias is from cuttings, making them great plants for gardeners on a budget. Seed can be sown into seedling trays and germinates well in soil temperatures between 23 to 26°C. The seeds are extremely small and need light to germinate so do not cover them with soil. Germination will take 14 to 21 days and the plants will start blooming about 14 to 18 weeks after sowing. The rhizomatous species are easy to propagate by division of the rhizomes and from stem or leaf cuttings.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Begonia Rl 'Eris' Mix. Picture courtesy Ball StraathofNo serious insect or disease problems affect begonias, but watch out for caterpillars, mealybugs and thrips.

Begonias can be susceptible to fungal diseases like bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, blight and stem and crown rots.

Fungal diseases are prevalent when conditions are too wet or too humid to allow for appropriate drying out of the leaves. To help prevent fungal diseases, water early in the morning to allow the leaves to dry out before nightfall, and ensure that the plants are correctly spaced and have good air flow around the leaves.

Warning:

There are more than 500 kinds of begonias, all of which are considered non-poisonous, and begonias are commonly listed as acceptable indoor and outdoor plants which are safe to have around children and pets.

Impatiens Double Fiesta 'Bonita White' Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaCondensed Version:

Gardeners have always loved Impatiens for shady gardens for their ease of growth and beautiful array of colours, but today gardeners are spoilt for choice when it comes to Impatiens, and breeders continue to surprise us with brilliant new garden hybrids. Some can even be grown in full sun and take heat and humidity.

The old-fashioned shade-loving Impatiens, (Impatiens walleriana) will flower all summer long, and available in colours from white through every shade of pink and magenta to oranges and reds; as well as those with starry centres and swirls, and lovely selections of double-flowered varieties. Most modern varieties are dwarf and compact; growing 15 to 30cm tall and 10 to 15cm wide. These are perfect border and in pots, hanging baskets, window boxes, in massed beds and underneath trees, for a dazzling display. 

Because New Guinea Impatiens can take a lot more sun than the ordinary impatiens they are even more versatile in the garden. Their flowers are also a lot larger than ordinary impatiens and come in a vast colour range, covering every shade of red, orange, pink, lavender and white. They are also a lot taller, growing from 30 to 70cm in height. Many varieties also have interestingly coloured foliage in tones of green, together with plum and bronze, or golden to clear yellow. Their bright leaves and big, showy flowers will liven up any spot in the garden, and they are stunning in hanging baskets, window boxes and containers of all kinds.

Sunpatiens are grown the same as New Guinea Impatiens but thrive in full sun and hot, humid weather, as well as in semi-shade. They come in an excellent colour range, making them excellent container and bedding plants for long lasting colour. Sunpatiens also come in three sizes: compact, spreading, and vigorous. Both the compact and spreading plants are perfect for containers.  The compact ones can fill in gaps when combined with other annuals; while a single spreading one will fill out a hanging basket or pot spectacularly, or grow quickly and flower abundantly in garden beds.

Caring is easy, as long as you keep the plants well-watered throughout the hottest parts of the year. They are all tender to frost, and in cold regions are grown as summer annuals which are planted out in spring after all danger of frost is over. In warmer regions they can be grown year round, and they will perform as short-lived perennials.

The most important tip is to ensure that the soil has perfect drainage, so plant in a light, moist, well-drained soil, and for impatiens planted in containers, use a good quality commercial potting soil that contains peat moss and either perlite or vermiculite.

It is also vital to allow for plenty of air circulation around the plants, as this helps prevent fungal infections. Overcrowding can be fatal, so space your plants correctly.

Even though the plants love regular watering, the soil must not remain soggy, and to help prevent diseases it is better to avoid overhead watering, and to water early in the day to ensure that the plants are totally dry by nightfall.

Use fertiliser sparingly, as too much fertiliser weakens plants and makes them more susceptible to disease. Feeding is not really necessary for plants in garden beds, but potted specimens can be fed about every 6 to 8 weeks, using a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants, at half the recommended strength.

Impatiens 'Sunpatiens' Picture courtesy www.nuleaf.co.zaFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Impatiens is a large family of plants which is widely distributed in the subtropics and tropics of Asia and Africa, where they never stop flowering. New Guinea Impatiens is native to New Guinea, and all our modern hybrids are bred from species collected there and later in Java and the Sulawesi Islands. Sunpatiens is a hybrid bred by the Japanese seed company Sakata. It is a careful combination of wild “traditional” impatiens (from a plant species native to Indonesia) with the larger, heat-loving Impatiens hawkeri, native to New Guinea.

Gardeners have always loved Impatiens for shady gardens for their ease of growth and beautiful array of colours, but today gardeners are spoilt for choice when it comes to Impatiens, and breeders continue to surprise us with brilliant new garden hybrids. Some can even be grown in full sun and take heat and humidity, much to the delight of gardeners around South Africa.  These exciting varieties ensure that Impatiens remains one of our most popular summer bedding plants.

Impatiens, Busy Lizzy, Touch-me-not plant (Impatiens walleriana)

Gardeners have relied on the commonly called 'Busy Lizzy' or 'Touch-me-not' (Impatiens wallerana) for generations for their ease of growth in difficult shady areas, as well as for their wide range of colours. Busy Lizzy is not suited to very dry or humid regions and thrives in semi-shade to light sunshine. In hotter regions they will need protection from the fierce midday sun and excessive winds, which will cause the flowers and leaves to scorch.

New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri)

When the irresistible 'New Guinea Impatiens' (Impatiens hawkeri,) commonly called “New Guinea Impatiens” hit the shelves they created quite a stir! These were taller growing Impatiens, with large flowers in vibrant colours, and often with colourfully variegated leaves. And, because they could take a lot more sun than ordinary Impatiens, New Guinea Impatiens became an instant hit.

New Guinea Impatiens will grow and bloom for a very long time in warm regions and can be planted out at any time, but if you live in cold and frosty regions don't rush to plant out too early in spring, as the plants prefer consistent daytime temperatures between 22 and 29°C. They love to receive full morning sun or bright shade throughout the day, and really don't like total shade. In very hot regions, protect them from the fierce midday sun and excessive winds, which will cause the flowers and leaves to scorch.

'Sunpatiens' (Impatiens hawkeri hybrid)

Today we are also blessed with a relatively new hybrid called 'Sunpatiens' which grows in full sun or semi-shade, and even thrives in hot, humid weather, greatly expanding the area in which Impatiens can be grown in South Africa.

This revolutionary new hybrid is grown and propagated in the same way as New Guinea Impatiens. It can take full sun or semi-shade, and thrives in heat and humidity. The thicker petals and tough foliage are less prone to disease, and the strong sturdy stems tolerate adverse weather conditions. There is no need to pinch off old flowers as they fall of cleanly.

Impatiens Super Elfin 'Paradise Mix' Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaIn the Garden:

Impatiens really give you bang for your money and are quite reliable in the garden as long as they can be watered regularly, so group them together with other water-loving plants. Water is becoming a real luxury in South Africa, and more and more expensive, so be realistic when planning your flower garden by grouping plants together according to their watering requirements.  Use smaller areas of the garden for those plants you simply love but which will require regular watering. Grouping them together will not only make watering your garden much easier, but it’s also just common sense. 

The old-fashioned shade-loving Impatiens, (Impatiens walleriana) will flower all summer long, and thousands of varieties are available, with colours ranging from white through every shade of pink and magenta to oranges and reds; as well as those with starry centres and swirls. Lovely selections of double-flowered varieties that look just like miniature roses are especially beautiful in containers.

They vary in height but most of the modern varieties are dwarf and compact; growing 15 to 30cm tall and 10 to 15cm wide. These are perfect border and container plants, so plant them everywhere in the shade; in pots, hanging baskets, window boxes, in massed beds and underneath trees, for a dazzling display all summer long.  The fully blown seedpods suddenly pop open at even the lightest touch, spreading the seeds far and wide, hence their common name “touch-me-not.” This fascinates children and they will run around popping the seeds with glee.

Because New Guinea Impatiens can take a lot more sun than the ordinary impatiens they are even more versatile in the garden. Their flowers are also a lot larger than ordinary impatiens and come in a vast colour range, covering every shade of red, orange, pink, lavender and white. They are also a lot taller than ordinary impatiens, growing from 30 to 70cm in height. Many varieties also have interestingly coloured foliage in tones of green, together with plum and bronze, or golden to clear yellow. Their bright leaves and big, showy flowers will liven up any spot in the garden, and they are stunning in hanging baskets, window boxes and containers of all kinds, requiring little maintenance, and no deadheading.

Sunpatiens come in an excellent colour range and thrive in full sun and hot, humid weather, but can also be grown in semi-shade, making them excellent container and bedding plants for long lasting colour. Sunpatiens also come in three sizes: compact, spreading, and vigorous. Both the compact and spreading plants are perfect for containers.  The compact ones can fill in gaps when combined with other annuals; while a single spreading one will fill out a hanging basket or pot spectacularly, or grow quickly and flower abundantly in garden beds.

Impatiens 'Sunpatiens' Picture courtesy www.tuberflora.co.zaCultivation:

Caring for Impatiens is easy, as long as you keep the plants well-watered throughout the hottest parts of the year. They are all tender to frost, and in cold regions are grown as summer annuals which are planted out in spring after all danger of frost is over. In warmer regions they can be grown year round, and they will perform as short-lived perennials.

The most important tip to growing healthy Impatience is to ensure that the soil has perfect drainage, so plant them in a light, moist, well-drained soil, and for impatiens planted in containers, use a good quality commercial potting soil that contains peat moss and either perlite or vermiculite.

It is also vital to allow for plenty of air circulation around the plants, as this helps prevent fungal infections. Overcrowding can be fatal, so space your plants correctly.

Even though the plants love regular watering, the soil must not remain soggy, and to help prevent diseases it is better to avoid overhead watering, and to water early in the day to ensure that the plants are totally dry by nightfall.

Use fertiliser sparingly, as too much fertiliser weakens plants and makes them more susceptible to disease.

Feeding is not really necessary for plants in garden beds, but potted specimens can be fed about every 6 to 8 weeks, using a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants, at half the recommended strength.

Propagation:

Impatiens walleriana seed needs quite high soil temperatures to germinate and can be sown indoors in late winter and spring in a germination tray at temperatures between 22 and 25°C. If you do not have a germination tray sow seeds in late spring or early summer. Do not cover the seeds with soil as they require good light to germinate. Cover the seed trays with plastic or glass to maintain 100% humidity and place them in good light but out of direct sunlight. Remove the glass or plastic when the seeds have germinated. Seeds will take from 7 to 14 days to germinate and will start blooming about 10 to 12 weeks after sowing.

New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) and Sunpatiens seed is harder to obtain but if you do find some, germinate it in seedling trays at soil temperatures between 22 and 28°C - the perfect temperature being 25°C. Impatiens need very good light to germinate so do not cover the seeds with soil, and place the trays in bright light with no direct sunlight. Germination will take 7 to 14 days and the plants will bloom in about 12 to 16 weeks. Plants are also propagated by cuttings taken in spring or summer but most cultivars are patented, and taking cuttings for resale, unless you are a licensed propagator, is illegal.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Although relatively trouble-free, Impatiens can be affected by some disease and pest problems. However, many of these can usually be avoided through good cultural practices.

Fungal diseases that affect impatiens include root, crown and stem rots, powdery mildew, grey mould and downy mildew. Many growers do not recommend the use of fungicides to treat blights and mildews on impatiens because the fungal spores appear on leaves and petals, and chemicals can damage these delicate plants. Rather, they recommend proper growth and sanitation methods which prevent fungal pathogens from attacking your impatiens in the first place.

Bacterial soft rots are caused by a number of organisms. Affected plants turn brown and mushy near the soil. Seedlings collapse and plants grow slowly. Bacterial leaf spots start as small, water-soaked areas that may encompass the entire leaf.

Root rot and crown disease

generally affects impatiens planted in poorly drained soil or pots without sufficient drainage. Dull foliage, wilting and yellowing are the first aboveground symptoms of root and crown disease. Seedlings don't emerge and rot in the soil, and in established plants the stems turn soft and dark, and stunting and death quickly follows.  Discard all the plants carefully in garbage bags to prevent the disease spreading, and start afresh. Do not, however, plant again in the same spot for a couple of seasons, since this disease remains in the soil.

Good soil drainage and air circulation goes a long way to preventing these diseases.

Botrytis Blight

Also known as “grey mould” Botrytis is a fungal disease caused by several species in the genus Botrytis. It affects the buds, flowers, leaves, and bulbs of many plants including: impatiens, African violet, begonia, chrysanthemum, cyclamen, dahlia, geranium, lily, peony, rose, and tulip. The extent and severity depends on weather conditions and cultural practices.

This disease is the primary cause of decay in cut flowers, causing the buds and flowers to develop abnormally and turn brown. Flowers may have irregular flecks and brown spots and older flowers tend to rot quickly. The disease often occurs when the weather is warm and humid, but the nights are still a bit chilly. Soft, brown spots appear on the leaves, stems and affected parts may be covered with a grey mould. To help prevent this, don't plant Impatiens, and especially New Guinea Impatiens out too early in spring.

Botrytis fungi overwinter as sclerotia on dead plant debris in the garden, and in the spring, spores form and spread by wind or splashing water to infect dying, wounded, or extremely soft plant tissues. Fungal mycelial strands (web blight) from previously infected plant parts can grow onto healthy plant parts and infect them. The fungus is capable of invading tissue during all periods of the growing season and multiplies rapidly in declining foliage, hence, the need for good sanitation.

To help prevent infection, allow for good air circulation around the plants, do not overfeed, and especially with fertilisers high in nitrogen, water early so the plants have enough time to dry off completely, and avoid overhead watering. If weather conditions are ideal for the appearance of this disease, preventative spraying is best. Otherwise, start spraying immediately with a suitable fungicide like copper sulphate once the infection is noticed, repeating as directed on the product. 

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a common garden disease which is easy to spot, displaying as a powdery white or grey coating on the leaves. Eventually, affected plants develop distorted or stunted growth and the leaves drop. To help prevent this ensure that the plants receive sufficient sunshine, and that they are correctly spaced. Try to water in mid-morning so the leaves have ample time to dry before evening falls. Keep the area around the plant free of leaves and other debris, and immediately infection is noticed, start spraying with an organic fungicide like neem oil, every 7 to 14 days, until the disease is eradicated.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew appears as a white, lavender, or purple dusting on leaves, usually appearing when weather conditions are adverse - like rainy, hot or humid weather, combined with chilly evenings. These fluctuations in temperature, combined with heavy rain, seem to be a trigger for downy mildew.

Fasciation

Fasciation on impatiens is a condition that it not completely understood but is thought to be caused by bacteria, viruses, or possibly genetics. Stems are abnormally flattened and appear to have grown together. Shoots are short and grow in swollen clumps, and the leaves are plentiful but abnormally small. The bacteria that cause fasciation lives in dead and decaying leaf and flower material, so sanitation practices will help greatly in prevention.

Necrotic Spot Virus & Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

These are the two main viruses that affect impatiens. Symptoms include black ring spots, mosaic patterns on the leaves, and dead tissue that is brown or tan. Flower colour is mottled and the leaves become distorted and yellow. Stems develop black areas or lesions and plants become stunted.

There is no cure for either of these viruses once they have infected the plant, and they should be removed and disposed of carefully.

Insects

Several insects can also attack Impatiens, but these are most prevalent when the plants are grown under cover.

Watch out for snail and slugs who love Impatiens growing anywhere.

Aphids damage impatiens by sucking out the plant juices, and similarly, plants are often affected by tiny sap-sucking spider mites found on the undersides of leaves, and which are most prevalent in warm, dry conditions. 

Mealybugs are another sap-sucking insect found on the upper surfaces of the plants.

Watch out for whitefly, which suck the plant juices, leaving yellow stippling marks in the leaves

Thrips also suck the plants sap and are found on the undersides of the leaves.

Treat these pests by spraying the plant with an insecticidal soap spray. . 

Warning:

Although Impatiens is listed as a non-toxic to dogs and cats, keep in mind that even non-toxic plants can cause vomiting in humans and animals if ingested.