Liliums are the leading ladies of the summer flower border, stealing the show with their elegant trumpet-shaped flowers in an amazing array of colours. The trumpets can have swept-back petals or open faces, many are highly fragrant, and they all make fantastic cut flowers. There are many types of Lilium hybrids, so you are sure to find those that complement the style of your garden, and its colour scheme. And, if you select a variety and plant a succession of bulbs, you can have flowers from mid-spring to early autumn.

Lilium is a true bulb and there are about 110 species which originated in the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere. The best species are cloned and used for further breeding, and many hybrids have been created through crossing species. This has led to a detailed classification system for Lilium, and has also resulted in this lily being more resistant to diseases, and more tolerant of different climates and soils.

Although there are many hybrids, the most common choice for gardeners is between Asiatic Lilies and Oriental Lilies, and since they look similar, many gardeners believe they are the same. However, they are different types of Lilium hybrids.

Lilium asiatic mixedAsiatic Lilies (Lilium Asiatic)

Asiatic Liliums, as the name suggests, are native to Asia, where they are found in several regions, and today there are around one hundred hybrid varieties available. Because they are one of the earliest Liliums to flower in spring they are available from early June until late August. Sadly they have no fragrance, but they certainly make a statement in the garden; and due to their hardiness and vigorous nature, they remain firm garden favourites. 

The flowers of Asiatic Liliums are smaller than the Oriental type, with the open, upward facing blooms averaging between 10 and 12cm, and they come in a multitude of pastel and bold colours like red, orange, pink, yellow and white.  They produce 3 to 12 upward facing blooms per stem, and the blooms are usually a single colour. The flowers take anywhere between 3 to 5 days to open, being fully open by day 7.

Asiatic Liliums have long glossy, bright green leaves, which are thin and usually 10 to 13cm long, and as they grow, they get long stalks and develop multiple narrow leaves near the stem. They’re also the shortest Lilium, usually ranging between 45 to 80cm, and up to 1.5m once fully mature. Because of their shorter stature and sturdy stems, they do not require staking. They are one of the hardiest varieties available and also one of the easiest and quickest to grow, making them perfect for perennial beds or containers. They can almost double their numbers within a year, with new babies popping up next to the mother plant, close to the surface.

Oriental Lilies (Lilium Oriental)

Oriental Liliums are hybrids created through crossing Lilium auratum from Japan and Lilium speciosum from China and Japan. Because they bloom later than most of the lilies, in mid to late summer and autumn, they are available from late August until early October. They are also known as the “Japanese Lily”, and rank among the world’s most popular cut flowers.

The flowers of Oriental Liliums are heavily scented and much larger than the Asiatics. You can easily identify the Oriental Lilium from the others by their longer, pointed buds, and even when open the petals of the Orientals have sharper points, like stars. The flowers are bowl-shaped with broad petals, and can be 15 to 18cm wide when fully open. Orientals come in shades of white, yellow and pink, and there are different colours on their rims, which is usually a combination of two to three colours. They take 7 to 9 days to open, being on full display on day 12.

Lilium Oriental Hybrid Picture courtesy F. D. Richards from flickrOriental Liliums have dull green leaves which are wider and further apart compared to Asiatic Liliums. They are also usually taller than Asiatic Liliums and are often referred to as “Tree Lilies”; as they gain height every year and range between 60cm up to 2.5m tall once fully mature. Oriental Liliums multiply at a much slower rate compared to Asiatic Liliums. The bulbs multiply from a natural division, and it is best to lift and divide them every 3 to 5 years to avoid overcrowding.

St Joseph’s Lily (Lilium longiflorum)

St. Joseph’s Lily is also commonly called the “Snow Queen” for its large, ice-white, trumpet-shaped flowers which have a wonderful fragrance.  It is also called the “Easter Lily” although that’s nowhere near the time they flower in South Africa, and here they start blooming in midsummer, just a few weeks after Lilium Asiatic. Bulbs are available from early June until late August in South Africa.

This Lilium is extremely suitable for the South African climate, and one of the most beautiful of the Lilium family. It generally grows around 1m tall but can mature to a height of 2m, standing tall and elegant. Because St. Joseph’s Lilies are tall, they are best planted near the back of perennial borders, and be prepared to stake them if they are in a windy spot.

Lilium asiflorum

Lilium asiflorum is fairly new and it was introduced to Europe in 1992. It is known as the “showgirl cousin” of the plainer looking Lilium Asiatic, and was created by crossing Lilium longiflorum and the Asiatic hybrids, inheriting its trumpet-shaped flowers, long vase life and vigour from Lilium longiflorum, and its upward-facing flowers clustered at the apex of the stem, and its bright colours in shades of yellow, white, orange, lavender, red, pink, as well as bi-colours, from Lilium Asiatic.

This Lilium is available in South Africa from early June until late August and produces its fragrant blooms in summer. It will multiply rapidly and reach a height of roughly 1m, but can mature to 1.5m. It is extremely popular, especially for cut flowers, and grows well in containers.

Lillium lancifolium Picture courtesy Mcgovernment29 from pixabayTiger Lily (Lillium lancifolium)

True Tiger Lilies are no longer  that easy to find in South Africa, but these tall exotic-looking beauties are well worth seeking out, and because they are still found growing in parks and older gardens, I have included them here.

Don't make a common mistake and call just any old spotted orange lily a ”Tiger Lily” - only one group is descended from the real thing. The true Tiger Lily is native to Korea, Japan and China, and like most Asian species of Liliums, was a staple in the oriental diet for centuries, and the bulbs were, and still are cooked and used in dishes like soups. But it's not the taste that made this Lilium world famous, it is the graceful beauty of this plant that captured the hearts of gardeners around the world.

This is the Lilium with little black 'bulbils' (baby bulbs) that form up and down the stem in the leaf axils. These little bulbs drop to the ground naturally, and spring up next season as baby tiger lily plants, so over the years, you'll have an expanding clump. The common name “Tiger Lily” is very apt as this orange lilium is adorned with delicate black spots, and the flower petals arch back gracefully from the strong flowering stems. It’s also a more profuse bloomer than most Liliums, producing as many as 10 flowers per stem. The newer hybrids are available in white, cream, yellow, pink, and red, all with black spots. These are not the edible type but make a wonderful display in the garden if you can find them.

Because Tiger Lilies spread easily they can become invasive, in certain countries they are classified as invasive aliens. For this reason I do not recommend planting these exotics anywhere close to green belts or reserves. In city gardens they should be fine, but keep an eye on them to ensure they do not spread too rampantly.

'Pixie' Lilium hybrids

'Pixie' Lilium hybrids are dwarf varieties which come in yellow, red and orange. They are ideal to plant into pots to brighten up small gardens, or to plant alongside pathways, or in front of the mixed flower border. They also do well in well-lit areas indoors, or at the office. Sadly, they do not seem to be as freely available as they once were so if you do spot some, snatch them up.

Lilium formosanum Picture courtesy yewchan from flickrFormosa Lily (Lilium formosanum)

The Formosa Lily, with its beautiful flowers is often seen decorating the verges of our roads from January to March, and with flowering stems up to 2m high it’s hard to miss. The stems are purplish-brown towards the base and usually rough and hairy. The leaves are narrow, dark green and shiny. The narrow, funnel-shaped flowers are fragrant, and their petals are white, flushed with reddish-purple on the outside and white inside.

This Lilium hails from Asia and was brought into South Africa as an ornamental plant. Because it spreads so easily and rapidly, it’s has been declared an invasive plant in South Africa. If you find this Lilium growing on your property, please remove it immediately.

In the Garden:

Liliums can be grown almost anywhere, you can plant them directly in the flower border, amongst  your roses or other perennials, or any bare spots in the garden. Use small mound-forming annuals like lobelia, portulaca, or sweet alyssum to hide their bare bases. These will also act as a living mulch to keep the roots cool.

They’re also perfect for pots, and the advantage of planting them into pots is that they can simply be moved onto the patio when in bloom.

For a stunning effect in the garden, plant them in groups; and the fragrant ones are great to plant near windows, in a courtyard, close to your front door, or along pathways, where their scent can be enjoyed.

It goes without saying that Liliums are essential for all cutting and fragrant gardens. When cutting the flowering stems for the vase, don't cut them off at ground level, r leave some leaves on your plant so that it can continue to convert sunlight into energy. Cut the stems for arrangements when the buds are on the verge of opening, preferably early in the morning, and immediately plunge the stems into cool water.

Lilium longiflorum Picture courtesy Zabka123 from pixabayCultivation/Propagation:

Liliums are available from May through to the end of August, and depending on where you live, they are also planted out from mid-May through to August. Local retail outlets and online stores will have them in stock at the correct time for planting out in your region.

Although it is recommended that the bulbs be planted out immediately after purchasing them, if they are not shooting, for a succession of blooms, buy a few extra packs and keep them in the crisper box in the fridge to plant out a little later in the season. However, you need to keep an eye on them, because once the shoots appear they must be planted out immediately.

With excellent drainage, Liliums can be grown in areas with quite harsh winters, and cold hardiness varies with type. Asiatic hybrids tolerate temperatures down to -37°C, but taller Oriental lilies and hybrids are hardy to -32°C.  However, although the bulbs can take very low temperatures, the tender new shoots can generally only tolerate light frost, and temperatures down to -2°C.  Therefore, in very cold regions they must be covered at night with a frost cover, or planted in pots which can be placed in a protected spot.

Liliums should be planted in an area that is cool during the summer months, but where they will also receive sufficient sun. Because the flowers and leaves require sunlight, but their roots must be kept cool, the ideal position would be to plant them where they will get morning sun, but be shaded during the hottest time of the day.

They thrive in rich, fertile, well-drained soil, and in pots they require the same. Loosen the soil in garden beds to an ideal depth of around 50 to 60cm, and a general rule is to plant most bulbs twice as deep as their length. Large bulbs need +-10cm of soil on top of the bulb and can be spaced around 20cm apart. Smaller bulbs need to be planted +-7cm deep and 15cm apart. Never allow the bulbs to come into direct contact with fresh manure or fertiliser, as these will burn them.

The bulbs need to be kept moist by watering well about twice a week to ensure that the soil never dries out completely, but it should also not be kept too wet. Over the first few years, water regularly until their root system has matured. After that, they can better tolerate some drought and are fairly low-maintenance plants. Because the bulb and roots like to remain cool while the flowers and leaves enjoy the sun, mulching the soil after planting with bark chips or a thick layer of compost will help to keep the roots cool.

Lilium 'Pixie' Yellow Feeding regularly with one of the specifically formulated bulb foods will give the best results, and this is especially important for potted specimens.

Liliums grow well in pots, and depending on the size of a mature plant, the pots don’t have to be that large, just ensure that the pot is deep enough to allow for at least 10 to 20cm below the planted bulb for the roots to grow. Use a rich, well-drained potting soil and check that the water drains freely from the pot. If you use a saucer, it should be emptied after watering to prevent waterlogging. Feeding potted specimens regularly is vital, and the soil should never be allowed to dry out completely, but it should also not remain soggy.  

You may need to stake the flowering stems of larger growing varieties, but take care not to damage the bulbs while doing so. For taller varieties it would be better to plant the stakes at the same time you plant your bulbs to prevent damaging them.

As the flowers fade in the garden, snip them off with scissors or secateurs, and when cutting for the vase, don't cut them off at ground level, rather leave some leaves on your plant so it can continue to convert sunlight into energy.

Liliums are perennial plants that will go dormant in winter, and can therefore tolerate very low temperatures if the soil is well mulched. When the flower stems turn yellow in autumn, cut them off just above soil level, and if winters are not severe, it’s best to leave the bulbs undisturbed in the soil for at least five years. Avoid overwatering, and they’ll pop up again in spring or summer.

However, in cold and very wet winter regions gardeners would do well to lift and store the bulbs indoors. Rinse the soil from the bulbs and check them for mould or damage, discarding any that aren’t healthy. Let the bulbs dry for a few days in a cool, dark location. Many gardeners dust the bulbs with fungicide before storing them, but this isn’t strictly necessary if there is no sign of rot and the bulbs have fully dried. To prevent moisture from collecting and causing mildew or mould, store the bulbs indoors in coir or vermiculite, using any container that can breathe, like paper or cardboard. Replant next season as soon as the bulbs start to show signs of shooting.

Dormant bulbs left in garden beds do not need feeding, and must not be over watered. The bulbs do not need watering more than once a month in winter in the summer rainfall regions; and not at all until late winter in winter rainfall regions. For this reason, in winter rainfall regions they are often best grown in pots which can be moved to a dry spot to overwinter.

When clumps of Liliums become too overcrowded, lift the bulbs in autumn or winter. Separate the bulbs carefully and store them correctly, or replant immediately. If you want to replant them in the same area, add lots of fresh compost to the beds. If the outer scales on the bulbs are covered in a grey-green mould, wash it off with tepid water, remove any damaged scales with brown spots, and soak the bulbs in a fungicide solution for thirty minutes before replanting.

If you have the time to give them a little TLC these enchanting plants will give you months and months of enjoyment

Lilium Asiflorum Hybrid Picture courtesy F. D. Richards from flickrProblems, Pests & Diseases:

Healthy Lillium plants suffer from few pests and diseases but they do need protection from snails and slugs. Watch out for thrips; and aphids can cause viruses, so spray with a suitable insecticide if necessary.

Botyrtis blight could form in humid conditions, and shows on liliums as oval shaped, reddish brown to tan spots on the leaves. The spots often have purple margins. The entire plant can be destroyed as lesions coalesce resulting in a general blighting. The causal agents are the fungi Botrytis elliptica and sometimes Botrytis cinerea.

Botrytis species can only be controlled by management of environmental conditions, sound cultural practices, and fungicide applications. Sulphur or Copper fungicides change the pH balance of the plant, creating an environment where botrytis blight and other fungal blights cannot thrive. Space your plants correctly to allow for good air circulation. Try to water in the morning to ensure that the leaves are dry by nightfall, and control weeds and remove all plant debris.

Warning:

The pollen of liliums is toxic to humans and cats, and will also stain surfaces or materials, so remove it once the flowers begin to open to prevent staining and consumption by animals or children. We always recommend supervising children and pets around plants, both indoors and outdoors, and too discourage them from ingesting any plant.