There was a time when purchasing commercially grown vegetables and herbs was cheaper than trying to grow them at home, and this, combined with time pressures on modern families, resulted in the decline of edible gardens and they were generally thought of as old fashioned and even ugly. Even fruit trees were considered messy and too much work for the average family to handle, so gardens were transformed to include large expanses of lawn and borders of flowering perennials and shrubs, and sadly most families  stopped growing their own produce altogether.

But, as the proverb say’s “The wheel turns” and today people are returning to more old fashioned and sustainable ways of living, with a modern twist, because it’s definitely healthier, and with current prices, much cheaper to grow your own.

If you want to grow veggies and herbs but don’t have much space, growing them in containers is a logical choice. Gardeners have been doing it for centuries and in our modern world where space is often at a premium, this practice has become even more popular. However, growing in pots is not quite the same as growing in the ground, and your plants will require a little more attention.

New gardeners will often bemoan the fact that after purchasing the containers, soil, fertilisers etc. it works out even more pricy than buying from a supermarket, but if you want to grow edibles because your family is struggling to make ends meet and you only have a very limited budget for gardening, don’t despair, there are ways to do it on the cheap.

Salad Mix Image by Alexander Fox / PlaNet Fox from PixabayFor example, many unconventional objects can be turned into a container - as long as it has drainage holes, or holes can be drilled or poked into it, you can grow in it. Go on a treasure hunt, you’ll be surprised at what you find just lying around your home or garden, and if you’re creative you can even dolly them up however you like.

Some people use wooden crates, even plastic laundry baskets will do, and if they have big holes in the sides, just line the inside with a tough garbage bin liner with drainage holes poked into the bottom. Plastic containers come in all shapes and sizes and can be purchased cheaply at some stores, but first look to see if you have any at home, those that you purchase rolled oats in work well and they even have handles so they can easily be moved around, as do old buckets or garbage bins. 

Hanging baskets work well for trailing cherry tomatoes, and for large plants like indeterminate tomatoes and beans, the large, strong plastic bags that farmers sell products like hops in work extremely well. Fabric grow-bags also work well and are very trendy, and although they are quite expensive, they are reusable and the larger bags are perfect for growing crops like tomatoes and potatoes.

If you’re making vegetable containers using old tyres or recycled, treated wood, line them with tough plastic sheeting before adding the soil, as the rubber or wood may contain harmful chemical compounds that could be absorbed by your vegetables.

If you are purchasing pots it is good to know that plants growing in terracotta (clay) pots need more attention to watering than other types of pots because of the porous nature of the material. Clay pots can also become quite heavy once they are filled with soil, so if you plan on moving your pots around, rather choose a lightweight plastic container. Also think about the colours you chose, as dark colours absorb heat, and in our hot summers they may make the soil too warm for some vegetable crops like lettuce.

Tomato 'Little Sicily' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofContainer vegetable gardening allows you to grow fresh vegetables almost anywhere, but selecting the right spots to grow your crops is also vital. Most herbs and vegetables love full sun, but many like mint, rocket and summer lettuce prefer some shade during the heat of the day. If you have sufficient sun, as well as a bit of shade right outside your kitchen door this would be the most convenient and obvious place to grow edibles, but if that is not an option, because containers have the advantage of being portable, they can be placed in a variety of locations like broad window ledges, on steps, balconies, patios, and even tucked in between shrubs in the garden or alongside walkways or driveways.

When selecting vessels to grow in, bear in mind what edibles you want to grow as some will need much larger pots than others. Smaller herbs like dhanya/coriander, chives, rocket, and salad greens like perpetual lettuce, radish and spring onions can be grown in smaller, shallower pots, or a window box. Much larger containers are required for growing climbing beans, cucumbers, potatoes and tomatoes, although cherry tomatoes grow well in large window boxes and hanging baskets.

All vegetables and herbs grow well with good air flow around their leaves and may struggle in a very hot, enclosed courtyard or balcony, and pots placed in the garden, and especially those on balconies, will experience strong winds at times, so ensure that your pots are weighty enough to ensure that they do not topple over in strong winds.

The soil you use in your containers is vitally important for optimum growth, and a large part of your gardening budget should be spent on providing the best soil you can for your plants. Never use soil dug out of the garden. Good garden mixes and potting soils are available, but avoid potting soil formulated for indoor pot plants as this is not really suitable for growing vegetables and herbs.

You can make a good potting soil mixture for growing vegetables at home by combining equal quantities of good quality compost, and palm peat or coco coir which are easily available in brick form. Simply put the brick in a container with water and let it sit and soak until it’s soft and useable. The palm peat or coir will improve the texture of the potting mixture and greatly improve its water retention capacity, so expensive water retaining granules are not necessary, however they can also be added if you so desire. Some gardeners even like to add some perlite or vermiculite to retain moisture and to make the mixture less heavy, and busy gardeners often add a slow-release fertiliser to the potting soil to save valuable time on feeding.

There are speciality mixes available that are formulated for growing herbs, and these are generally a bit more sandy or gritty, with exceptional drainage. You can make your own herb potting mix by combining together equal quantities of compost, palm peat or coco coir, and washed river sand. If your garden centre does not stock washed river sand, ask them to order it for you as it is available in small packets and is great to have on hand for other plants like succulents and cacti.

Pokon Coco Growing Medium. Picture courtesy https://www.hadeco.co.za/Because a loamy soil with good drainage is most important, before you plant or sow seeds in the containers, ensure that the drainage holes do not get blocked by covering  them with weed barrier cloth, a layer of pebbles, broken terracotta pot crocks, or whatever you have on hand, even a good layer of river sand will work. And to ensure that your soil is draining well fill the pots with your soil mixture and firm it down very well, then water it thoroughly and watch to see how quickly it drains. If the drainage seems fine, allow the soil to dry out and check if it is making a hard crust on the top, and if it is, work more palm peat into the top layer to improve the texture. You can now sow even the smallest seeds directly onto the soil, covering it to the recommended depth with a little extra palm peat – easy!

Newly sown seed will need to be kept moist until germination takes place, and you don’t want to wash your little seeds all over the soil or destroy newly germinated ones by watering with a strong stream of water, so use a spray bottle to water these pots, or select the soft misting option on your hosepipe nozzle.

Strongly growing container grown herbs and vegetables need to be checked regularly for water, and depending on temperatures and the type of crop you are growing, you will probably find you need to water daily on very hot days, and perhaps only every second or third day during overcast weather. And, although it is quite difficult to overwater potted veggies, it is possible, so be mindful of this as overwatering can wash away essential nutrients in the soil. If your containers are all grouped near each other you can make watering so much easier by installing a drip-irrigation system, which will also save a lot on water bills over time.

Also, remember that some crops like lettuce require much more frequent watering than say tomatoes, or the leaves become bitter, so get to know the needs of your various crops, and spend time outdoors daily, checking and watering by hand if necessary. You will soon learn just how often your plants need to be watered.

Regular feeding of your container grown vegetables is non-negotiable for success, so be prepared to invest in a fertiliser for vegetables. There is a vast array of suitable feeders, from granular fertilisers to liquid and foliar feeds, so purchase whatever suits you and your pocket best. Liquid fertiliser is the best for pots because the fertiliser is dissolved into water and will not burn the plants, and it can be watered directly over the plants as a soil drench, or just sprayed onto the leaves as a foliar feed. This makes liquid fertilisers quite economical too. Herbs in pots don’t need excessive feeding but if you are harvesting them continually, give them an occasional feed with organic fertilisers that are high in nitrogen, and if you have mixed them in the same container with veggies, they will be fed together with their companions.

Basil Everleaf 'Emerald Tower' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofTo keep your vegetable garden at its most productive, keep an eye out for weeds and insect pests, and although container grown plants aren't as susceptible to diseases as varieties grown in the ground, you'll still want to watch out for problems. Remove or treat any plants immediately if they show signs of disease or insect damage.

You can start your vegetable container garden at the same time you would plant in the garden, and depending on what types of vegetables you want to grow, you can either sow seeds directly into your containers, which is best for many crops like carrots, parsley, radishes and spring onions, and for long-season crops like tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers that require large pots, you can sow into trays and grow them on in small pots before transplanting them into their permanent pots, or you can simply purchase seedlings from your local garden centre.

To ensure crops throughout the season, fast maturing crops like dhanya and radish need to be sown at regular intervals, and for this reason you will need more than one container. Sow into the first one, and once the seedlings are up and growing, you already need to sow the next batch, so having two or more containers is the only way to ensure a constant supply of your family’s favourites.

If you’re planning on planting a mixture of vegetables and herbs into one large container you can, as long as they have the same growth requirements concerning the amount of sun and water they will receive. Plant sun-lovers together and those that prefer semi-shade together, those that like plenty of water together and those that prefer less water together, it’s really just common sense, but does take a bit of planning. Remember to position the largest plants at the back or in the centre of the pot, depending on where the pot is going to be placed, and if you want a really attractive looking arrangement, try to combine various leaf textures, shapes and fruit or leaf colours together, finishing off your creation by adding some artsy ornamentation for that ‘wow’ factor.

Many herbs and veggies can be sown or planted out much closer together in a container than you would in the ground, as harvesting them regularly acts as a natural pruning process and prevents the pot from becoming overcrowded. You will soon learn who the ‘bullies’ are, and to plant them in a pot on their own. Have a bit of fun, learn from your mistakes, and don’t be afraid to experiment.

To make the most of the available planting space, think vertical, and add supports like tripods to your large containers to train plants like indeterminate tomatoes, climbing beans, cucumbers, pumpkins and squash up. Fast maturing crops can be sown around the base of these climbers as they will be in and out long before slow maturing crops are harvested, and you can even get several small harvests in before the end of the season, while making the most of the available planting space. If you are using smaller single pots, it’s generally best to have only one type of plant per pot.

Harvesting is the most satisfying step and with container grown edibles it’s always best to pick your crops as soon as they reach a reasonable size and are still young and fresh, as most vegetables are more productive if you harvest early and often. Letting plants "go to seed" will often cause a drop in fruit set, and is counterproductive when growing in small spaces. And when harvesting anything except root crops, it's a good idea to use pruners, scissors, or a sharp knife to remove what you need. If you try to tug or pull the leaves or fruits off, you risk damaging the plant, and even uprooting it from the container.

Planting Lettuce Image by Wolfgang Eckert from PixabayHere are some notes to get you started:

The options you have on how you arrange your container garden is endless, so don’t be afraid to try new combinations as plants are really quite obliging.  Keeping notes on what you have sown, and the dates and days to harvesting will prove invaluable as you progress, allowing you to fine tune your repeat sowing dates to ensure that you never lack your favourites. You can also take note of the plant combo’s that worked the best so you remember to use them next season. Noting what does not work is just as important, and even if you think you won’t forget, you most likely will, so if you’re serious about edible container gardening, take notes!

Almost all herbs and all the fruit bearing vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash and eggplants require full sun.

Many leafy vegetables like lettuce, cabbage, spinach, parsley, and mustard greens can tolerate shadier locations, as well as mint, one of the few herbs that will thrive in semi-shade.

Always check your ‘days to harvesting’ on your seed packets as some summer crops like tomatoes, pumpkins and peppers take a long time to mature, and in regions with cold winters that come early, these slow maturing crops need to be in the soil early in order to bear well, and if sown or planted out too late in the season, they will not amount to anything.

Many garden crops like coriander, parsley, beans, carrots, radishes, and spinach grow best when sown directly into the soil as they do not transplant well, and for these types its always best to sow a bit more than you need, spreading the seed as thinly as you can. Once the seed has germinated, overcrowded clumps of seedlings can be thinned by clipping the excess out with a scissors, to space them correctly. Many of these clippings are wonderful to use as microgreens in fresh salads.

Container grown edibles makes companion planting so much fun and can also greatly improve the looks of your container displays, as combining herbs and even some flowers with various veggies can look so pretty. This organic gardening technique has been around for a very long time, and it probably developed organically over time as well, as gardeners observed that certain plants just seem to grow better together than others, and if the correct plants are grouped together, they enhance the growth and health of one other and also help to deter specific pests. 

For the home gardener it is often easier and more economical to purchase established pots of perennial herbs like mint, rosemary and thyme to plant out, rather than sowing seed, but for those annual herbs like coriander, rocket and basil, it is worthwhile to purchase packets of seed.

There are exciting new varieties of vegetables on the market today, including baby vegetables which are perfect for container gardens, and there are good local seed suppliers online as well, so do some research before you purchase. Below are some of the most popular summer vegetables and herbs, and I have also included good companion plants and combo’s to get you started on your journey, which is the fun part, so take your time and enjoy your container gardening, you will find it most rewarding.

Basil 'Dolce Fresca' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofBasil

Basil is a must-have in the summer garden and there are over 40 cultivars, both annual and perennial. These differ vastly, not only in flavour, but also in growth form, leaf colours and shapes. Most of the smaller culinary varieties will grow happily in a pot, and there are some wonderful newer ones that are well worth planting.

Basil ‘Dolce Fresca’ is an annual that has a unique bushy habit and shorter internodes, growing about 36cm tall and 30cm wide, while still maintaining a traditional basil flavour and leaf size. And later in summer when other basils get tall and leggy, Dolce Fresca remains mounded and tidy, making it a perfect pot plant.

Basil Everleaf ‘Emerald Tower’ is a magnificent summer annual that grows up tall and slim, reaching 60cm in height with a spread of 46cm. It is the first basil bred for season-long performance and continual harvesting. Although tall, it is a compact, well-branched variety with short internodes and a beautiful columnar shape that looks fabulous in container gardens.

Not only does basil taste great with tomatoes, it also grows great with tomatoes, and this companion plant will protect the tomatoes against white fly, so plant them together for a match made in heaven! Basil is related to mint and, like other plants in this family is attractive to bees, and therefore well worth growing near vegetables like squash and pumpkin, which need pollinating. Basil can also be planted with beetroot, carrots, and cucumber.

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Beetroot

Any beetroot can be harvested early as a baby vegetable and there are many types and colours available.  About 60 days is required for a beetroot to reach 4cm in diameter, the size often used for cooking, pickling or canning as whole beets. Then, with adequate moisture and space, they enlarge rapidly to 7 to 8cm. Beetroot is easy to grow if sown directly into 20 to 30cm window boxes. 

To repel insects plant a row of brightly coloured marigolds next to beetroot, and to improve its health and flavour, sow dill nearby. Beetroot also grows well in close proximity to basil, sage, mint, coriander, chives, bush beans, spring onions, cabbage, lettuce, and cucumbers.

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Cabbage 'Baby Green Gonzales' Pixcture courtesy Ball StraathofCabbage

Traditional cabbages are big and heavy, taking up a lot of space, but varieties like ‘Baby Green Gonzales’ is a little round, green leaved baby cabbage which only grows about 15cm in diameter and can be harvested from 55 to 65 days from transplanting, making it perfect to grow in 20cm deep window boxes or other containers.

Petunias make excellent companions for cabbage and besides looking pretty together, petunias act as a tonic plant for cabbage. The plants are also helped by aromatic herbs like dill, which have many blossoms. Cabbage also grows well with beans, beetroot, chives, cucumbers, lettuce, parsley, and Swiss chard.

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Carrots

All carrot types can be harvested early as baby carrots but varieties like ‘Paris Market’ with its delicious little round carrots and other baby carrots like ‘Amsterdam’ and ‘Sweetheart’ are ideal to grow in window boxes.

Carrots planted with any plants from the onion family like spring onions and chives make a very good combination to help keep the carrot fly at bay.  Carrots also enjoy growing near to lettuce, radishes, bush and runner beans, Swiss chard, and tomatoes, and herbs like basil, coriander, parsley, rosemary, rocket and sage will benefit cabbages.

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Chives

Chives are the smallest species of the onion family and are easy to grow in pots or window boxes about 20cm deep. They are sown directly into pots in summer and grow quickly to about 30cm tall, but garlic flavoured chives will grow about 40cm. Once the plants are established the leaves are harvested as required, but remember that chives are bulbs and therefore require a certain amount of greenery in order to rejuvenate the bulb, so it is best to always leave about 5cm of leaf growth at the bottom when cutting, for regrowth, and because chives can only withstand this level of harvesting up to 4 times a season, it’s advisable to grow several plants for a continuous supply.

Chives grow well with just about anything: beetroot, tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, cucumber, eggplant, peppers, and squash all do better when growing near chives.

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Cucumber 'Muncher' Cucumber

Cucumbers grows well in large 30 to 40cm pots, and depending on the variety grown, will be ready to harvest in about 8 to 10 weeks. Harvest with a sharp knife as soon as the fruits are big enough, and don't leave any large fruits hanging on your plants, as this will prevent the production of more flowers.

‘Patio Snacker’ is an exciting modern variety that has controlled yet vigorous growth, and produces short, branching vines, making it perfect for pot culture. From planting to harvesting is only 39 days, and the dark green-skinned fruit has good flavour with a crunchy texture and non-bitter peel. Patio Snacker is also a free-flowering, monoecious plant, meaning it has both male and female reproductive parts in the same plant, resulting in high yields and continuous harvests.

'Ashley' is a well-known heirloom open pollinated cucumber that is excellent for slicing and produces medium sized fruits that are darker than other cultivars. It grows well in containers and is resistant to downy mildew and other problems that are caused by humid conditions.

'Muncher' is a high-yielding, vigorous but compact variety, making it excellent for container gardening. Muncher cucumbers have a deliciously sweet taste with a smooth, thin and tender skin. Mature fruits are between 15 and 20cms in length and are great fresh or for pickling.

Dill and caraway are said to improve the taste of cucumber crops, basil is reputed to protect them from downy mildew, and chives will help prevent fungal diseases. Cucumbers will also grow well with oregano, marjoram, beans, beetroot, cabbage, lettuce, and beetroot.

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Dhanja/Coriander Image by ReStyled Living from PixabayDhanya/Coriander

Coriander must be one of the most versatile summer herbs as all parts of the plant – roots, stems, leaves and seeds can be used in cooking. The aromatic seeds of this plant are called “coriander” and the leaves are known as “cilantro” or “dhanya.” Dhanya grows quickly and easily if sown directly into deep seedling trays or any small containers or window boxes. Seeds are sown thickly because the plants are harvested when they are only 12cm tall. For this reason successive sowing is essential for continual harvesting.

Coriander is not only great to have in the kitchen, but also in the garden. In fact, the word "coriandrum" is derived from the Greek work 'koris' which means insect; and due to its pungent smell it was probably one of the first natural insecticides used by man. Coriander is therefore essential in the vegetable garden as a pest repellent, growing well with most veggies, so plant it close to tomatoes, potatoes, beetroot, radish, Swiss chard, pumpkin and squash.

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Dill

The leaves, flowers, and seeds of dill are all edible, and like coriander, the fernlike leaves of dill are very aromatic and are used to flavour many foods. The leaves can be harvested as required and seeds germinate and grow quickly and easily if sown directly into pots or containers at least 20cm deep.

Not only do dill and cucumber taste fantastic together, they also love each other’s company in the garden, and like lettuce, dill requires plenty of water or it will go to seed very quickly, so these two also make good companions in containers. Dill is also an excellent companion plant for very many other vegetables like cabbage and spring onions.

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Egg Fuit 'Patio Baby' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofEggplant

Eggplants come in an astounding variety of shapes and colours, and can become quite large but the new ’Patio Baby’ variety is more compact, growing about 50cm tall and wide, and producing little  eggplants that are fully ripe within only 45 days from transplanting. It bears for a long time and is perfect to plant individually into larger pots, about 30 to 40cm deep.

If you have large planter boxes you can combine eggplants with bush or climbing beans, as green beans repel potato beetles which also attack eggplants. Marigolds also repel beetles from eggplants, but because beans do not like growing near marigolds, you will have to choose one or the other as a companion plant for eggplant. Herbs are also useful bug repellents for eggplants, French tarragon will ward off any number of pesky insects, while thyme deters garden moths.

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French Tarragon

French Tarragon is a loose, spreading, perennial herb with upright stems and narrow green leaves that have a warm, faintly aniseed flavour and aroma. It grows easily in pots about 20 to 30cm deep, and in containers it will usually grow around 40cm tall with an equal spread.  In cold regions it will go dormant in winter, sprouting quickly again in spring.

Tarragon is a good companion for most vegetables, particularly eggplant, and it likes growing together with herbs like chives, thyme, parsley, rosemary, and sage.

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Green Beans

Green beans may be vines or small bushes and come in several sizes and colours. They are best sown directly into containers, and climbing beans are popular because they take up less space, and other herbs and veggies can be grown around them. Climbers need containers at least 20 to 30cm deep, and require supports because they can twine up 2 to 3m. Bush beans grow about 30 to 50cm tall and can do with a growing depth of 15 to 20cm.

Do a quick online search for new varieties of beans and you will be delighted to discover the wonderful range now available to South African gardeners, grown by local producers. Great varieties for growing in containers include: 

‘Blue Lake’ Bush Beans, a very productive bush bean that produces string-less, nicely rounded and tender sweet beans in profusion.

‘IMBEWU’ Bush Beans are awesome, and the plant is a strong, early producer with a continuous steady supply. This variety is resistant to the Bean Common Mosaic Virus.

‘Blue Peter’ is a well-known and much loved pole bean that is a beautiful dark purple on the bushes, turning a lovely deep green when cooked. It produces well over the season and can be picked continuously.

'Lazy Wife' (white seeded) is a runner bean similar to our well known ‘Lazy Housewife’ (brown seeded) runner, and makes for an interesting and tasty alternative. It is a very old German variety from the 1810's, named for its ease of preparation because it has no strings. It is has a good flavour, and is a heavy bearer over a long period.

‘Molly's Zebra’ is one of Australia’s favourite runner bean varieties, and is a great producer of thick, tender, string-less beans, and a splendid producer for pots.

Oregano and marjoram planted near beans will help protect them against aphids, and eggplants, marigolds and petunias help to fend off beetle attacks. Beans also grow well with carrots, beetroot, cucumbers, cabbage, and potatoes, and herbs like coriander, rosemary, basil and parsley all do well near beans.

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Simply Salad 'Pro San' Picture Courtesy Ball StraathofLettuce

Lettuce cultivars come in a wide range, from the crisp-head lettuce with its tight heads, to the loose-leaf types with their pretty, plain or frilly, green or russet-red leaves. The smaller varieties grow very well in window boxes or individual pots which are about 15 to 20cm deep. Lettuce is an intermediate to cool season crop but varieties are available that can be sown almost all year round. However, if the incorrect variety is grown for that season, or if the soil is poor and they lack nutrition, lettuce plants will quickly go to seed, and especially in very hot summer weather. During the hottest months, 30% shade, or morning sun and afternoon shade, will benefit lettuce greatly. Lettuce grows quickly so it requires rich soil, and must be watered regularly or the leaves will turn bitter. Keep the soil moist at all times without overwatering.

Loose-leaf lettuces are the easiest to grow in summer as they tolerate the heat better and are less susceptible to changes in temperature, and, as they do not form heads, they can be harvested continually until they go to seed. Sow loose-leaf lettuce about every 4 to 6 weeks for a continual supply.

There are many exciting Lettuce ‘Salad Bowl’ Mixtures available to gardeners online in South Africa, as well as mixtures of lettuce and popular herbs like: Lettuce ‘Gourmet Salad Blend’; ‘Simplysalad Mix Pro’; ‘City Garden Mix’; ‘Summer Picnic Mix’; ‘Kale Storm’; ‘Oriental Salad Greens Mix’; and ‘Wonder Wok Mix’; so look out for these as they are wonderful to cultivate in smaller window boxes and pots, and look really pretty too.

Planting lettuce together with radishes will help repel flea beetles. Lettuce also grows well with beetroot, coriander, basil, dill, tomatoes, spring onions, chives, carrots, cucumber and cabbage.

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Mint

Mints are perennial plants that go dormant in winter but quickly sprout again in spring. They are one of the easiest herbs to grow but one of the most difficult to control - these ‘bullies’ will overrun most other herbs and vegetables if given half a chance and are therefore better planted alone in a pot. And because they like to run all over, rooting as they grow, window boxes or low, broad containers suit their needs best. However, if you are growing indeterminate tomatoes in a large container, planting mint at their base would be most beneficial.

Wonderful garden cultivars include: ‘Spearmint’ (Mentha spicata) the common garden mint with its lovely fresh taste; ‘Peppermint’ (Mentha piperita nigra) with its dark purple-green leaves; ‘Apple Mint’ which is also called ‘Bowles Mint’ or ‘Pineapple Mint’ (Mentha rotundifolia) is one of the most sweetly scented of all the mints; and let’s not forget ‘Chocolate Mint’ (Mentha x piperita) which tastes like peppermint crisp.

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Okra Picture courtesy James BakerOkra

Okra grows vigorously in warm climates and a single plant can produce up to a 100 pods, which are harvested within 50 to 60 days after transplanting when the pods are young and tender and about 8cm long, as they get hard and stringy quickly. Okra leaves may be cooked in a similar manner as the greens of beets or dandelions, and the fresh, young leaves are also eaten raw in salads. Frequent harvesting encourages the plant to produce more flowers and pods.

You can grow any okra variety in a pot, but if you can find a dwarf one this would be best, as ordinary okra is tall, growing quickly to about 2 meters. It produces large, attractive, hibiscus like yellow flowers in summer and looks lovely if grown individually in large pots about 30 to 40cm deep or more, depending on the variety grown. Due to its taproot, okra doesn’t transplant well, so sow directly into the pots.

Okra ‘Clemson Spineless’ is a variety that was a 1939 All-America Selections winner, which means it’s probably the most epic okra you’ll ever grow. The vigorous plants can grow about 1.2m tall and produce an abundance of dark green, spineless, grooved pods that are best picked when 5 to 7cm long.  Seeds will germinate in 5 to 20 days and you can start harvesting within 50 to 65 days, and harvesting will continue until cold weather arrives.

Plants like summer savoury, coriander, dill, mint, thyme, sage, and oregano or marjoram are all very beneficial companion plants for okra, as they help to repel insect pests like cabbage moths and spider mites.

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Oregano & Marjoram

Oregano and Marjoram are two of the most widely used herbs in the world and I have included them here together because they both belong to the mint family and are often confused with one another. They grow easily in a pot at least 15 to 20cm deep and are very good companion plants for most vegetables because they help to repel aphids. They are also said to repel the cucumber beetle and squash bugs. Try planting them with tomatoes, peppers, cabbages, and lettuce.

‘Oregano or Wild Marjoram’ (Origanum vulgare) is a frost hardy perennial that remains evergreen, and  ‘Marjoram or Sweet Marjoram’ (Origanum majorana) is also a perennial but is  often grown as a summer annual in South Africa because it is sensitive to frost.  Garden cultivars include: ‘Hot-and-Spicy’ Oregano with its wonderful herbal, hot chilli taste, and the highly ornamental ‘Variegated’ Oregano with its green and white leaves, and not forgetting the Golden Oregano ‘Aureum’ with its striking yellow leaves and very compact growth habit, making it a pretty companion plant for container grown veggies.

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Parsley

Parsley is widely used in many cuisines, and the two most widely cultivated cultivars are ‘Curly Leaf’ Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) and ‘Italian’ or ‘Flat Leaf’ Parsley (Petroselinum crispum neapolitanum). Flat-leaved parsley is said to have a stronger flavour than curly parsley and stands up to long cooking times better, while curly leaf parsley is preferred by others because of its more decorative appearance in garnishing. Parsley has deep roots but can be grown in pots and window boxes as long as they are at least 20cm deep. And because parsley does not like being transplanted, its best to sow directly where it is to grow, but remember germination is very slow, taking four to six weeks, so for container gardens it may be better to purchase seedlings or small potted plants to plant out, just be careful not to disturb the tap roots when transplanting.

Snails hate parsley so plant it near vulnerable plants, and it makes a good companion for cabbage, chives, carrots, tomatoes, and chilli or sweet peppers.

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Baby Pumpkin 'Jack Be Little' picture courtesy Ball StraathofPumpkin & Squash

If you love pumpkin you will not be able to resist a baby pumpkin called ‘Jack Be Little’ as not only is it delicious, the small orange fruits are only around 8 to 11cm across, weighing 170 to 350g, and each plant will produce 6 to 8 fruits which are harvested in late summer and autumn. Jack Be Little can be grown individually in a 30 to 40cm deep container, and trellised to grow vertically. Summer squashes like baby marrow and patty pans are also grown singly in 40 to 60cm deep containers, depending on the variety, and trellised to grow vertically.

Baby ‘Barbara’ Butternut, an exciting tropical butternut variety which is vigorous, bears for a long time, and is less susceptible to diseases. Due to Barbara’s attractive rind colour and its ability to firm up at a very early stage, allows immature baby squashes to be harvested about 45 days after transplanting. The rind colour of the baby fruit is a dark green with lighter green stripes, and when mature it has a dark green colour with thinner, tan coloured stripes. A 40cm pot should be large enough for this baby.

Marrow ‘Romanesco’ is an Italian Heirloom baby marrow with light and dark green stripes on its skin and very distinguished ribbing. The flavour is slightly nutty and can be eaten raw or cooked. The skin is very tender and can also be eaten. The flowers are traditionally used for stuffing and deep frying. Harvesting can begin around 12 to 17 weeks and you will need to pick regularly as the plant is extremely productive. Because this is a vigorous bush variety and doesn’t trail it will need a sturdy pot, at least 60cm deep to support it. 

Marrow ‘Striato D’ Italia’ is a variety of marrow that’s known for its distinctive striped appearance, and you can rest assured this zucchini will taste as good as it looks. It is a very good producer of medium green fruit with white speckles and medium sized ribbing, and produces lots of flowers over a long season. Harvesting can begin around 12 to 17 weeks and you will need to pick regularly as the plant is extremely productive. Because this is a vigorous, bush variety and doesn’t trail it will need a sturdy pot, at least 60cm deep to support it. 

Good companions for pumpkin and squash include coriander, basil, oregano, marjoram, chives and spring onions. Marigolds and nasturtiums also grow well with pumpkins and squash, and brightly coloured petunias are said to act as a tonic plant.

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Potato Pot. Picture courtesy https://www.hadeco.co.zaPotatoes

If space is limited you can grow new or baby potatoes in a grow bag, a plastic bucket, barrel, bin, or similar container, and it does not have to be that big to grow new potatoes, but containers at least 40 to 60cm deep work well, and the broader they are, the more potatoes the plant will be able to produce.

Potatoes plants dislike cold conditions and are sensitive to frost, and because they also dislike excessive heat, for home gardens the best time to sow or plant is in early spring, or late summer and early autumn. However, growing them in pots gives you a lot more control over their environment and can even extend the growing season. Generally potatoes are planted in August in South Africa, but you can start even earlier if you are growing in pots because the container is above the soil and thus it keeps the soil warmer, and pots can be placed on a warm, sheltered patio or even indoors. In the height of summer they can be placed out of the intense midday heat, and in autumn they can be moved to a more sheltered spot once again. 

As potatoes can suffer from serious fungal and viral diseases, it’s always best to buy certified seed or tubers. Ensure that the container drains well before covering the bottom with a good layer of compost mixed with a little general purpose fertiliser, and plant the tubers eyes pointing up, and about 10 to 15cm apart, just covering the tops with compost. Water regularly, and when the sprouts are 15 to 20cm long add more soil and compost, and keep repeating the process as they grow.

Generally, ‘new’ potatoes are ready to harvest approximately 60 to 90 days from planting, depending upon the weather and the variety. One sign that young potatoes are ready is the formation of flowers on the plants, and you can start harvesting, or you can wait a bit longer to allow the potatoes to grow bigger, it’s up to you.

‘Hertha’ is oval with smooth yellow skin and flesh, and an all-purpose potato that is suitable for baking, boiling, and a favourite for making French fries; ‘Fianna’ is oval with cream skin and white flesh and is used mainly for mash or fries; ‘Mnandi’ is oval with a pale yellow skin and flesh that is most commonly roasted or boiled; ‘BP 1’ is oval with a slightly flattened appearance and has white flesh and skin. BP 1 potatoes are all-purpose, being suitable for all cooking methods. They do, however, have the tendency to look grey after cooking.

Because you will continually be filling up your container with soil, you can’t plant companions in the same pot, but it is interesting to note that brightly coloured petunias are perfect companion plants for potatoes and act as a tonic plant, and planting potatoes close to beans will help to keep beetles away.

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Radish 'Tsai Tsai'Radish

Radish cultivars come in shades of pink to rose-red and scarlet, pure white, yellow and green, right through to purple and black, and all these amazing cultivars are available in South Africa from local heirloom seed suppliers online. It’s best to plant radish seeds directly and they are perfect for window boxes about 15 to 20cm deep. Seed can be sown almost throughout the year, but in very hot summer regions, high temperatures may cause radishes to bolt, making them essentially useless. Radishes grow quickly, and should be ready to harvest within 3 to 5 weeks, depending on the variety sown.

Organic gardeners frequently use fast-growing radish alongside, or even interspersed amongst slower maturing crops, as markers, or row markers. For example, they are great markers for carrots, beets and Swiss chard, because if sown at the same time, the radish will germinate within a week and mark where the carrots, beets, or chard are likely to appear some weeks later. The radishes will be ready, or almost ready to harvest by the time the slower crops are just emerging aboveground, or when they are still immature and won’t shade the radishes.

Radish ‘Cherry Belle’ is one of most well-known and widely grown radishes in the world, and is loved for the bite of its small red roots, and its ease of growth, and ‘Sparkler’ has small round roots which are red with white tips, with a mild peppery taste and a subtle sweetness, which is delicious raw, but slow roasting brings out the tenderness, richness and sweetness of this radish. ‘Easter Egg’ Radish has an assortment of colours ranging from white, pink, purple, and red, and its crisp white flesh has a mild, fresh flavour. ‘French Breakfast’ is a very old heirloom variety with a mild, crunchy flesh. ‘Crayon Colour’ radishes are a fun blend of yellow, pink, red and purple, and they make a stunning addition to salads, and are delicious roasted.

Radishes are favourites for sprouting and for microgreens which will add an intense peppery flavour into your salads, sandwiches and stir-fries.

One such radish is ‘Triton’ which is easy to grow grown as a microgreen. Its light red to pink stems and green cotyledons are delightfully crunchy with a spicy and slightly floral flavour. ‘Daikon’ is also a super quick sprout that is nice and spicy, and you can have it ready to eat in as little as 3 days. As a microgreen, ‘Tsai-Tsai’ radish is easy to grow and it can be harvested in both the ‘dicot’ (seed leaf) and in the true leaf stage. The flavour changes as it moves through from sprout to true leaf stage. It will be ready to start eating in 3 to 5 days, and as a microgreen you can start harvesting at 7 days.

Radishes help repel cucumber beetles, which means cucumbers, with their long growing season requirements, are fantastic companion plants for radishes. Strong smelling plants like nasturtium, spring onions and chives are also beneficial for radish. Other companions include lettuce, squash and pumpkin, tomatoes, peppers, beans, parsley, basil, and coriander.

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RocketRocket/Arugula

Garden rocket has leaves that are long and deeply lobed, like those of dandelions, and the fresh young leaves are loved for their pungent, nutty-cress taste. Rocket can be sown in all but the two coldest months of the year in South Africa, and it grows quickly to about 30cm tall and 40cm wide, and is ready to harvest in about 50 days. Eventually it produces tall stems of unusual creamy white flowers, but for culinary purposes the flowering stems should be cut out to encourage more leaf production. Rocket appreciates a bit of shade in hot summers and grows well in window boxes, hanging baskets, or pots about 20cm deep.

Several cultivars are available online including Rocket ‘Wild Sylvetta' which is a slower growing rocket compared to Arugula, and also a bit smaller, but what this rocket lacks in stature it sure makes up for in flavour, and it has become one of the most desired, alternative salad greens used by celebrity chefs.

Rocket ‘Microgreen Seed’ is an exceptionally popular microgreen variety that is very quick growing with a lovely peppery taste that makes it a perfect garnish for salads. Rocket is not often used as a sprout as it can be bitter under 12 days of age.

Rocket is pretty easy going and gets along well with most herbs, vegetables and flowers in containers. It is very beneficial for tomatoes, as it acts as a tonic plant.

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Rosemary

Rosemary is a very ancient herb and there are many forms, from prostrate groundcovers and trailing varieties, to upright forms which can reach 1.5m to 2m tall with an almost equal spread, if left un-pruned. Rosemary is an evergreen perennial that will grow for many years before it needs replacing, so it is best to plant it alone in a single pot and the size of its container will depend on the variety grown.

Rosemary helps to deter cabbage moths, bean beetles and carrot flies, and is grown as a companion plant for many vegetables like cabbage, beans and carrots, also growing well with sage.

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Sage 'Tricolor' Image by deluna from PixabaySage

The long, aromatic, velvety leaves of sage are a beautiful soft grey, but sage has been cultivated for ages and many exciting new garden varieties have been developed. ‘Red Sage’ (Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’) has soft purple leaves; ‘Icterina’ is a golden sage, and ‘Tricolor’ has gorgeous leaves splashed with pink, white and green, but is unfortunately not as hardy as the other varieties. The different forms are also variously scented and flavoured, so sample them to find your own favourites. Sage grows quickly and easily in pots about 30cm deep.

Sage loves to grow with rosemary, and makes a good companion plant for vegetables like beetroot, cabbage and carrots because it helps to repel the cabbage moth, carrot fly, and white flies.

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Spring Onions

Spring onions are best sown directly and are perfect for growing in window boxes or small containers about 15 to 20cm deep. The plants can be harvested when the stems are pencil thick, about 90 to 120 days after sowing.

Because onions and garlic plants have a pungent smell that naturally repels insects, they are particularly beneficial as a pest repellent in the vegetable garden, and especially for tomatoes, and all members of the cabbage family, helping to repel cabbage caterpillars, cabbage maggots, cabbage worms, Japanese beetles and aphids. Herbs like dill and rocket will improve the health and flavour of onions, and summer savoury and parsley also like growing nearby. Other companions to plant near onions include carrots, beetroot, sweet peppers, spinach, lettuce and radish.

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Summer Savory

Summer savory has a lighter flavour than winter savory, with a spicy, peppery taste that is reminiscent of thyme. It will grow about 30 to 40cm tall and 15 to 20cm wide, and is very easy to grow as a summer annual in a pot about 20cm deep, and it looks lovely in hanging baskets.

If planted close to beans, summer savory will help to keep beetles away, and although seeds can be sown in spring or early summer, they take quite long to germinate, so it’s often best to purchase small plants. 

Members can click here to read more about growing and using summer savory.

Pot Pepper 'Fajita' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofSweet Peppers & Chilli Peppers

Peppers, and especially chilli peppers with their masses of colourful fruits, can be so pretty if artfully combined with herbs and summer flowering annuals like alyssum, marigolds, salvia and lobelia in containers. There are thousands of varieties which vary greatly in size, but for the average pepper a 30 to 40cm pot should suffice. There are just far too many sweet and chilli pepper garden cultivars to discuss here, many provided by local growers online, so do some research to find those that would suit your tastes best.

I found some wonderful sweet pepper heirlooms online like: ‘Asti Yellow’ & ‘Asti Red’ Sweet Peppers that produce large block bell peppers that are sweet and juicy, and ready for harvest in 75 days. Asti Yellow starts off a lovely deep green colour, and as it ripens it turns a bright canary yellow. Asti Red also starts off green, turning an enticing bright red as it ripens.

There must literally be thousands of chilli pepper varieties online, but here are a couple I found interesting.

‘Blondie’ from Scandinavia changes from a light green to white with a purple tinge when ripe, and has a sting but also a nice zesty taste.

For all the brave-hearts out there ‘Cameroon Nanga-Eboko’ which was originally collected from a roadside stall in the small town of Nanga-Eboko in central Cameroon, has a  heat profile that demands respect, but it also has wonderfully intense fruity flavours. It is also very heat tolerant, disease resistant, and highly productive, making it wonderful for containers.

‘Rustenburg Chilli’ is the chilli that the majority of dried chilli powder in South Africa is produced with because it has a mild heat profile with a good flavour, and is excellent for drying. The bushes grow about 60cm tall and produce so prolifically you only need one or two to grow in containers for a huge harvest.

Basil grows especially well with peppers, as does marjoram, coriander, chives, parsley and sage.

Members can click here to read more about growing sweet peppers.

Members can click here to read more about growing chilli peppers

Sweet Potato' Bophelo'Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are grown as an annual summer crop, and the runners are generally planted out in October once all danger of frost is over. They are usually propagated by means of rooted shoots or vine cuttings, and unfortunately for the average gardener not many garden centres sell runners, but luckily sweet potatoes are easily grown from a few well-shaped, disease-free tubers bought from the store or local farmers market. Runners are also becoming more freely available online from local suppliers, so look out for: ‘Ndou’ a high yielding South African variety that is loved for its delicious creamy-white flesh; ‘Bophelo’ is another very popular sweet potato with deep orange flesh and an outstanding flavour and texture. ‘Purple-Purple’ is a long, elliptical sweet potato with great yields and a superb flavour and texture, and its double-barrelled name comes from the fact that it has both purple skin and purple flesh, a trait that is relatively uncommon in sweet potatoes; ‘Wickedly Purple’ is a another delicious purple fleshed sweet potato.

If space is limited you will be glad to know that sweet potatoes grow easily in containers of all sorts and although grow bags are available from garden centres, any large containers or pots can be used. Ensure that the container drains well before covering the bottom with a good layer of compost mixed with a little general purpose fertiliser, and plant the tubers about 10 to 15cm apart, just covering the tops with compost. Water well, and as the potatoes grow within the container, add further layers of compost. Generally, most varieties will take about 90 to 120 days to mature, so check your frost dates before planting.

Because you will continually be filling up your container with soil, you can’t plant companions in the same pot, but it is interesting to note that aromatic herbs like thyme, oregano, marjoram and dill, are good to plant close to sweet potatoes, as they deter the sweet potato weevil.

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Swiss Chard 'Bright Lights' Image by Mabel Amber From PixabaySwiss Chard

Growing chard in containers is a great way for urbanites to grow some greens, and mixed with other plants in containers, Swiss chard provides a showy backdrop. ‘Bright Lights’ with its pretty coloured stems is especially lovely in containers, but ‘Fordhook Giant’ is perfect too with its deep green leaves and heat tolerance. And Swiss chard doesn’t even need a very large pot because the root system isn’t deep, but you do want to take into account the amount of large leaves the plant produces, so a pot about 25 to 30cm deep will be large enough. You can buy transplants or sow your own seeds directly, and remember, in hotter summer regions potted plants prefer semi-shaded positions.

The beauty of growing chard is that you can harvest the leaves as they are required - it can’t get fresher than that! You can also start harvesting when the plants are only 15 to 20cm tall by cutting off the outer leaves with a sharp knife, just above ground level. Continue to use the “cut and come again” harvesting technique by continually cutting the largest outer leaves, and leaving the young inner ones to continue growing.

When using Swiss chard as a companion plant, keep in mind that it can get pretty big when fully mature and can crowd out smaller plants if planted too closely. If you are growing in large mixed containers there are many vegetables which will benefit from Swiss chard growing close to them, especially tomatoes, but also radishes, beetroot, carrots, coriander, lettuce, beans, and anything in the cabbage or onion family.

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Thyme

Fresh thyme goes with almost everything and helps aid digestion by breaking up fatty foods. There are many varieties of thyme which are grown in gardens, but not all of them are widely used in the kitchen. The culinary types grow beautifully in pots about 20cm deep and also look great in hanging baskets.

‘Common Thyme’ (Thymus vulgaris) is a bushy little shrub about 20cm tall and 30cm wide with grey-green leaves. It is very savoury and fragrant, making it one of the best thymes for cooking and drying, as well as for flavoured salts and oils.

‘Silver Thyme’ (Thymus vulgaris 'Argenteus') has pale green leaves, edged with silver, and is grown and used in the same manner as common thyme.

‘Lemon Thyme’ (Thymus x citriodorus ‘Aureus’) has attractive green and lemon-yellow leaves with a delightful lemon-thyme scent and taste. It is also grown and used in the same way as common thyme, but is more compact, and can also be added to sweet dishes.

Thyme will stimulate the growth of neighbouring plants and loves growing close to oregano, marjoram, dill and mint. Because it is highly aromatic, it will help repel cabbage root fly, whitefly, red spider, and aphids; making it a wonderful companion plant for cabbages, onions, eggplant and tomatoes.

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Tomato 'Little Napoli' Picture courtesy Ball StraathofTomatoes

Tomato varieties come in many sizes so their containers will differ. The smaller varieties like cherry tomatoes grow beautifully in 20 to 30cm deep pots, window boxes, or large hanging baskets. Determinate tomatoes do best in a slightly larger container, around 30 to 40cm deep, and indeterminate tomatoes, because they grow continually and bear all season, will require a 40 to 50cm pot, or a large grow bag.

‘Tumbling Tom’ Cherry Tomatoes include: ‘Yellow Tumbling Tom’ and ‘Red Tumbling Tom’, and these little tomatoes grow vigorously to approximately 30cm tall, and can cascade 30 to 60cm, and if the plants are fed regularly, up to 3 plants can be grown in a single 30cm basket or window box. These little plants are extremely productive and can be harvested about 70 days from transplanting, and you can rest assured they will put on a delicious display anywhere sunny where you can hang a basket or place a pot. Growing tomatoes way above the ground has many advantages as it protects the crop from soil-borne diseases and many pests, and cascading tomatoes also eliminates the need for cages and stakes – perfect!

‘Little Napoli’ Tomato is a hybrid Roma type cocktail tomato that is so gorgeous when laden with fruit, and its trailing habit is perfect for containers. It can be planted in a large hanging basket or window box, where it can cascade down freely, or it can be grow upright in a standing pot. It is very compact and only reaches about 30 to 45cm tall, but spreads 60 to 70cm. It will take around 60 to 65 days from transplanting to harvest, and is such a heavy cropper that it will need support if it is growing upright in a standing pot. 

‘Little Sicily’ Cocktail Tomato is a compact, determinate tomato that produces large enough fruit to be classified as a ‘slicer’. It has a mounded habit, growing 46 to 60cm tall, with a spread of 60 to 90cm, and can be grown in containers, with or without supports, making it an attractive patio container plant, and perfect for a window box or hanging basket. From transplanting to harvesting is between 60 to 65 days, and while the plant may be small, it bears an abundance of delicious red fruits for a large harvest.

‘Orange Zinger’ Tomato is an indeterminate tomato that takes around 60 days from transplanting to harvesting, and will provide its fruits all season long. Orange Zinger is a round, dark orange cherry tomato with a big flavour, and a good balance between sweet and tangy. Because it is indeterminate and continues to grow all season it can reach heights of 2m or more with a spread of 90cm to 1.2m, so it requires sturdy supports. It is a crack-resistant variety with high yields, and is resistant to Fusarium Race 1 and Tobacco Mosaic Virus, a great advantage when growing tomatoes.

As we all know, basil is terrific growing close to tomatoes and so is coriander, thyme, rocket, chives and spring onions. Swiss chard is also beneficial for tomatoes and its gorgeous big leaves help to fill in the bare space at the bottom of larger growing tomatoes as they mature, so why not plant all of them together in a nice big pot for a stunning show.

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Vegetables Creative Container. Image by congerdesign from PixabayI hope this article has motivated you to grow more edibles, no matter how small or large your garden may be, and once you get the hang of it you will be inspired to try your hand at growing even more edibles in containers. Did you know that turmeric and ginger are also very easy to grow in pots, as well as lemon grass, rhubarb, and many others, so if you want to expand your repertoire, there are many options available for you to explore.  And, even if you do have a few failures, don’t give up as they are often out of your control, and ‘mother nature’ does not always play along, so perhaps your tomatoes were a disaster not because you didn’t treat them right, but simply because we had a cool, wet summer, but hey you discovered that your lettuce, rocket, radish and Swiss thrived with all the rain and cooler weather – that’s how it goes!

Gardening is an art, and teaches one how to ‘go with the flow’, accepting both our successes and failures as a learning curve. And, like any art form or hobby, it takes time to perfect, and as they say “practice makes perfect”. So if you love gardening, let your creative juices flow and just enjoy every minute you have in your special place.

Happy gardening,