Welcome to Gardening in South Africa!

Mediterranean Fruitfly. Picture courtesy Ronald BeerThere are several eco friendly ways to control fruitfly in summer; starting in mid-winter. Now you can fight them effectively and safely with just a little bit of hard work!

Fruitflies attack many species of fruiting plants like peaches, apricots, papaya, litchi, raspberry, mango, avocado, pear, quince, plum, apricot, fig and even citrus and coffee. Usually farmers spray insecticides to kill fruit flies, but this damages the environment and is costly. Traps have been in development since the 1960s but they have limited success.

Fruit flies look like a small housefly and the clear wings have orange and brown patterns. When they rest on fruit the wings are usually horizontal. In South Africa the most common species are the Mediterranean and Natal Fruitfly.

The Mediterranean Fruitfly

There are several eco friendly ways to combat this destructive cycle. Guava and loquat trees from your garden, or orchards kilometres away can be sources of infestation; as fruitflies are known to favour them to overwinter. Guava trees are category 2 invader plants in South Africa and may only be grown under controlled conditions. Loquat trees are category 3 invader plants and may no longer be planted. Both must be removed from gardens and may not be sold to the public.

Ways to combat fruitfly.

In May or June brush the trunks and any large branches of your fruit trees with a medium hard brush to remove hibernating insects. Remove all mulch and fallen debris from the ground and destroy it by burning or sealing it in garbage bags. Hoe the soil lightly around your fruit trees; this will expose many insects and pupae for the birds to enjoy. Leave the soil exposed until the first heavy frosts to further kill off insects hibernating in the soil; you can repeat this process when it is really cold. Next, spread a thick mulch of compost around your trees. After pruning in June and July, spray with Lime Sulphur or the fermented comfrey and garlic spray below. Ensure that you water fruit trees deeply and thoroughly once a month in winter.

In spring when your trees start to bloom place a lining of frost cover, bidum or weed guard on the ground around your trees. This will prevent mature fruit fly that have survived the winter in the soil from emerging from the ground. Once all the blossoms have fallen from your tree start spraying both your tree and the ground around it with wormwood and garlic or a quassia spray every week. Try to do this in the early evening when the bees are in their hives. Continually remove any fruit that appears to be stung and keep good hygiene on the ground.

To further lure fruit flies away from your ripening fruit, hang baited traps in the trees, using about three to five traps per tree. Traps are easily made at home using 600ml or bigger, plastic soft drink bottles. Cut of the top third and invert it into the bottle, forming a funnel so that the flies can fly in but not get out. A jar with some small holes poked into the lid or around the top will serve the same purpose. If you can, cover any open topped jars with a fine mesh that is only big enough to let the flies in, but hopefully will not trap beneficial insects like bees. Hanging them at a slight angle in the trees will help prevent excessive rain water from diluting the bait. Check the traps regularly to control the level of the bait and remove the traps as soon as the trees stop fruiting.

Wormwood solution:

Place 200g of dried wormwood in a large jar and fill with one liter of cold water. Leave overnight and strain through a stocking or cloth.  Add the fresh juice of five garlic cloves to the solution. Strain and dilute 1:5 (one part solution to 5 parts water) before spraying.

Quassia extract:

Soak 200g of quassia chips and 2 tablespoons of crushed garlic in two litres of cold water overnight then bring to the boil for 5 minutes before allowing the mixture to cool. Strain well and add 1/2 teaspoon of Sunlight Liquid before spraying. The chips can be used three times before they must be discarded. Allow a 7 day waiting period between spraying and picking fruit.

Bait:

Take one litre of quassia extract, five tablespoons of molasses or brown sugar and one tablespoon of vinegar. Mix them together and bring them to the boil then immediately allow the mixture to cool and half fill your container. You can add some over-ripe banana to the bait.

Sulphur and lime sulphur:

Not all commercially available products are certified organic and you should check the label. Sulphur is a natural product that is used as a fungicide for the control of powdery mildew, rust and various other fungal diseases on vegetables and ornamentals. Sulphur is also an insecticide for various mites including those that attack citrus. It can be used on tomatoes and stone fruits. Sulphur is available as flowers of sulphur (available from your chemist), wettable sulphur, or spraying sulphur. It should not be used in conjunction with an oil spray or on hot days. Sprinkle the brown sulphur powder on to zucchini and other squash to protect against mildew. Lime sulphur should not be applied when the air temperature is over 30°C or after spraying with a copper spray, in the same season; or within 2 weeks of an oil spray.

Picture courtesy Sam Fraser-SmithThis fungal disease affects many garden plants and is most noticeable on roses if the humidity is high and during prolonged wet weather, especially in autumn. Fuchsias and hydrangeas are also very susceptible.

The spores begin to grow on leaves that have been wet for about eight hours or more. It seems to start on the lower leaves, and then spreads upwards. The leaves fall off, often leaving the plant with no leaves at all. Sprays that contain copper, like Copper Count or copper soap are used as a preventative spray and can also be used on vegetable crops. Always add a sticker to the spray mixture to make it more effective.

Picture courtesy Sarah RubensThis very common garden disease can be found on many plants, spreading quickly. The white powder can be seen on the buds, stems and leaves. Its development, like black spot, is influenced by humidity, wetness, temperature and wind. On roses planted close together it is most noticeable and also on roses grown in too much shade. Try to water  early, on hot sunny days; so that the leaves of your plants can dry off quickly. Feeding your plants too often with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen, will result in soft growth, which is more susceptible to fungal diseases. Margaret Roberts Organic Fungicide will control most fungal diseases and is very effective for powdery mildew. It can also be used on edible crops. Neem oil is also very effective.

There are many different species of mites, which attack our plants, but it is the common red spider mite and the two-spotted mite that are the most common. Red spider mite populations can explode during hot, dry weather, and they lay their eggs on the undersides of the leaves where it is relatively dry, and are so minute that most people don't even see them. Signs of infestation are fine white spider webs on the plant, a mottled, silvery look to the top of the leaf, or a severe yellowing or bronze colour to the leaves, leaves dropping off, and leaf curl.

Red spider mites (Tetrachys urticae) also known as two-spotted mites are tiny red arachnids which establish themselves on many crops and ornamentals. The term “spider” is a bit misleading, because in reality this is a mite. However, it does have 8 legs, spins webs, and is related to the same zoological class as spiders, Arachnida. The mites are between 0.5 and 0.7mm long with an oval-shaped body, and the species vary in colour from greenish-yellow, brown, and red-orange, to virtually transparent.

Spider mite development differs somewhat between species, but a typical life cycle is as follows. The eggs are attached to fine silk webbing, and the larvae hatch in approximately three days, and two nymphal stages follow. After hatching from the egg, the first immature stage (larva) has three pairs of legs. The following nymphal stages, and the adults, have four pairs of legs. Both adults and juveniles feed on the underside of leaves, sucking out the cell contents, resulting in chlorotic spots on the upper leaf surface.

The length of time from egg to adult varies greatly depending on temperature. Under optimum conditions, when it is hot and dry, with temperatures around 27°C, spider mites complete their development in five to twenty days. The adult female lives two to four weeks and is capable of laying several hundred eggs during her life, ensuring that there are many overlapping generations per year.

Spider mites are the most common mites attacking woody plants and the two-spotted spider mite is considered to be one of the most economically important spider mites, as it has been reported to infest over 200 species of plants.

These mites are mostly found on the underside of the leaves, and if you look closely, or with a magnifying glass, the alert observer may see many tiny, reddish creatures the size of small pin heads, scurrying to hide themselves. Another sign of infestation is the presence of fine webs on the leaves.

The red spider mite is a very common pest of  many ornamentals, and finds the sap of aloes irresistable, sucking it out of the leaves to absorb leaf cells, and on aloes they are usually first noticed by tell-tale, small pale markings on the surface of the leaf.

If they are subjected to the mite bites the flowers of ornamentals may be distorted when they start emerging. Mite damage to the open flower causes a browning and withering of the petals that resembles spray burn.

Because red spider mites quickly adapt to chemical threats, quickly building up immunity to many pesticides, alternating your sprays can be very effective. During hot and dry weather, try alternating between sprays of Bioneem and Pyrol at 10 to 14 day intervals. Margaret Roberts Organic Insecticide is also good to use against red spider mites, as well as Oleum.

Click here to see Google images of spider mites

Insecticides and methods for controlling red spider mites 

Regular plant inspection helps to control a red spider mite infestation before it gets out of hand, so check the undersides of your plants leaves often, you will soon learn to spot them. Spider mites seem to miraculously appear during hot and dry summer spells, and shelter in the little microclimate created underneath the leaves of plants.

If you spot them early, first cut off and dispose of the worst infected leaves, then drench the entire plant, but especially the undersides of the leaves, using a strong stream of water from a hose pipe. If done regularly during hot and dry weather this will go a long way in controlling these pests. And, if their shower is followed by an insecticidal spray this is the most effective. Doing this regularly during this type of summer weather, can keep mites at bay.

Biogrow ‘Bioneem’

Biogrow ‘Bioneem’ comes from the Neem tree and is a great choice for gardeners because it is used to control a wide range of insects, (up to 200 types) including: white fly, red spider mites, and leaf-miners. It also does mealybugs, thrips, fruit flies, leaf hopper, weevils, and many, many more gogga’s.

The key insecticidal ingredient found in the neem tree is Azadirachtin, a naturally occurring substance. It blocks the insect’s production and release of vital hormones rendering them unable to moult, thus breaking their life cycle. Depending on the stage of life-cycle, insect death may not occur for several days. Azadirachtin acts as a feeding deterrent for some insects, but for those who do take a nibble, if only minute quantities are ingested the insects stop feeding. Residual insecticidal activity is evident for up to seven days or longer, depending on insects and application rate.

Because neem products must be ingested to be effective, they are relatively harmless to insects that pollinate crops and trees, such as butterflies, spiders and bees, as well as our beloved lady bird bugs that consume aphids and are a welcome sight in the garden, and not forgetting the beneficial wasps that control various crop pests. Therefore only insects that feed on plant tissue succumb, while those that feed on nectar or other insects rarely contact significant concentrations of neem products. I would advise trying to avoid spraying directly into blossoms, if possible, and to spray when pollinators are not that active. Also, do not apply in temperatures above 30°C, as Bioneem is an emulsifiable concentrate.

Biogrow ‘Vegol'

Biogrow ‘Vegol’ will control spider mites. It is 96% Canola Oil and is a contact insecticide with ovicidal activity that can be used in both the dormant and growing seasons, and does not persist in the environment. It is a proprietary formulation consisting of pure canola as active ingredient that kills all stages of insects. This product will also control whitefly aphids, mealy bugs, leafhoppers, scale, immature plant bugs, sawfly larvae, psyllids, leaf beetle larvae and phylloxera.

For use indoors, outdoors and in greenhouses, on fruit and nut trees (e.g., apples, cherries, peaches, pears, nuts); flowering, foliage and bedding plants; corn; soybean; melons; tomatoes; vegetables (e.g., beans, cabbage, cucurbits, peas, potatoes); figs; small fruits (e.g., grapes, strawberry, raspberry); citrus; ornamental and shade trees (e.g., birch, evergreens, holly, oak); and houseplants. Remember to spray the entire plant and especially the undersides of the leaves.

DIY recipes for red spider mites 

There are hundreds of easy DIY organic sprays online to help prevent and control spider mites naturally, so find those that suit your needs best, or just use what you have on hand.

Cayenne pepper or hot chilli pepper spray for red spider mites:

Sprays using the hottest chillies you can find will keep a host of chewing insects away from your plants, including beetles like the brown ones we call “Christmas beetles”. Just remember, if you use this on your veggies, wash them well before serving, or your family may just get a hot surprise!

Take one teaspoon of very hot cayenne pepper or the hottest chilli you can find, chop or blend and steep for about an hour in one cup of hot water. Once cool, strain, add a drop of dishwashing liquid, and spray undiluted. As a deterrent, spray once a week, but if your plants are already infested, spray every few days, and after any rainfall.

Garlic insecticide and fungicide spray:

Garlic spray works well for red spider mites and also deters many other garden pests like aphids and slugs. It can also help to eliminate powdery mildew.

Peel the cloves from a whole head of garlic and put in a food processor or blender with 250ml of warm water and purée the mixture. Alternatively, chop or crush the cloves as finely as you can by hand and mix well, using hot water.

Add a further 700ml of water to the mixture, along with 30ml of any liquid soap. Blend again and then transfer to a clean jar. Allow the mixture to steep for about 24 hours, or at least 12 hours, so the garlic can infuse the liquid with its potent sulphur compounds.

Strain through a muslin cloth or fine mesh strainer to prevent clogging the nozzle on your spray bottle. Pour the liquid into a container, seal and store in the fridge between uses.

Use undiluted and spray the plants thoroughly, covering both sides of the leaves with an even coating of the spray. As a deterrent, spray once a week, but if your plants are already infested, spray every few days, and after any rainfall.

Now, this is how my mind works – why not combine very hot chillies and garlic together, utilising both their powers in one spray – it’s like using a two-in-one shampoo, but only for tomatoes. And, yes it really works well!

DIY canola oil recipe for red spider mites:

Canola oil is very good in controlling spider mites if sprayed diligently twice a week. Mix canola oil with water. Dilute the oil according to the severity of the infection. For plants with severe spider mite infestation, you can use a 2% solution.

Essential oils as insecticides:

This as a truly fascinating subject, and essential oils are used to deter a vast array of garden pests, so if you already have some in your medicine cabinet, chances are you can use them on your plants too. All you have to do is to add them to water and spray – simple. There are so many recipes online, I will leave it up to you to find those that you think would serve you best, but here are some good ideas to get you started.

There are no hard and fast rules on dosage strength, and in organic gardening, oils with a very sharp scent like eucalyptus, lemon oil, cinnamon oil, or rosemary oil, are used more sparingly than those with a gentler aroma like chamomile.

Cinnamon oil must be one of the very best non-toxic and non-hazardous pesticides, and its efficacy to kill spider mites has been proven numerous times. And, because this oil targets adult spider mites as well as the eggs, it provides very effective long-term protection, so add about 4 drops to 1L water in a spray bottle, and agitate the bottle as you spray. If you are spraying plants with glossy leaves you can add a drop of dishwashing soap.

Lemon oil is one of the most popular choices for preventing spider mites, perhaps because it smells so wonderful. Lemons are known for being natural antibiotics and have strong antimicrobial properties, so add about 4 drops to 1L water in a spray bottle, and agitate the bottle as you spray. If you are spraying plants with glossy leaves you can add a drop of dishwashing soap.

Spider mites absolutely hate the strong smell of menthol too, and many gardeners claim eucalyptus oil works like magic. The ‘magic’ is also due to its antibacterial and bactericidal properties. Because this oil is very pungent, use only 2 to 3 drops in 1L of water.

I encourage you to do some research online about this subject. It’s fascinating how essential oils benefit both humans and plants. They are safe and effective, and because only small doses are used, your oils should last a long time. It also wonderful to just add a couple of drops to water, and off you go - no worries about poisoning yourself in the process.

Black Aphids. Picture courtesy Victoria BensleyWhat are Aphids?

There are many species of aphids that attack a vast number of garden plants, including flowers, vegetables, fruit trees, conifers and herbs; causing malformed or distorted growth. Infestations can occur at any time of the year but are more common in spring because aphids love young, sappy plant growth. They must be controlled, as they spread viral diseases from plant to plant.

Aphids are sucking insects that are sometimes called “plant lice” and there are several species, all of which belong to the insect family Aphididae. All aphids are soft-bodied and pear-shaped with a pair of cornicles (tailpipe-like structures) projecting from the rear end of their abdomen, and the adults may, or may not, be winged. They come in various colours, like light and dark green, black, brown, pale yellow and grey

Click here to see Google images of aphids

Generalizing the life cycle of all aphids is difficult because of the diversity of their life habits, ranging from single to multiple hosts. Aphids have many generations a year, and in mild climates they reproduce asexually throughout most, or all of the year, with adult females giving birth to live offspring, often as many as 12 per day, without mating.

However, at the end of the summer, when temperatures begin to drop and day length decreases, both males and females are produced. These aphids mate and the females then lay eggs on the appropriate host plant to overwinter. In spring, the eggs hatch and the aphids migrate onto their summer host plants, and although aphids are generally weak fliers, some species migrate considerable distances. Throughout the summer, wingless females predominate, but winged forms may arise when populations become too large for the available food source.

All types of aphids can be controlled as for white wooly aphids below.

What is that mass of white woolly wax on the bark of my tree?

Woolly aphids produce masses of white woolly wax on spurs or branches that have been pruned as well as within cracks in the bark of trees. These pests suck on the plants, from the roots to the leaves and twigs, causing curled and twisted leaves as well as yellowing of the foliage, and if left untreated will result in a reduction of the plant’s vigour. Their feeding also causes the formation of galls which destroys developing buds and damages the wood. The galls can split to allow cankers and other diseases to develop within the tree. Under-ground feeding also causes galls, which adversely affects the translocation of water and nutrients.

Woolly aphids are found in temperate regions of the world, and in South Africa this aphid propagates entirely parthenogenetically, a form of asexual reproduction whereby offspring are produced without the embryo being fertilised by a male. Because the females do not need males, a single aphid can start a whole new colony.

During the winter months woolly aphids live and feed on the roots of plants, and in spring and summer an endless migration of crawlers emerge from their colonies on the roots and crawl up the tree to start new colonies in the aerial parts of the plant. Under mild climates woolly aphids are also able to overwinter in protected sites on the tree.

Although wooly aphids can attack many plants, they are particularly fond of Aloes, and also Apple trees.

Click here to see Google Images of Woolly Aphids on Apple Trees

How to Control and Treat Woolly Aphids ?

The control of subterranean colonies of woolly aphids is very important, and can be the most important step to minimise aerial infestation, and delay their spread.

Which are the Best Products and Sprays for Controlling Woolly Aphids?

Applying sticky bands around the trunks of the trees goes a long way in preventing aerial infestations, as you may be surprised at how many crawlers you find on your traps. Sticky traps also prevent ants from crawling up the trees, as ants are known for their ability to form symbiotic relationships with aphids in exchange for the honeydew they produce, and ants will protect the aphids from their natural predators.

Often you will also notice a black sooty mould growing on the sticky surfaces of the leaves. This mutually beneficial relationship between ants and aphids can make it even more difficult to control a woolly aphid infestation.

Ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps are all beneficial insects that can help control aphids, and earwigs are also known to predate on woolly apple aphids. For this reason organic farmers often purchase these beneficial insects and release them into their orchards.

Check your trees often and for small outbreaks you can either squash them or remove the developing colony with a stiff paint brush. A high-pressure spray from the garden hose can also help remove aphids from the trees.

Which Insecticides are best for controlling Woolly Aphids?

If you suspect woolly aphids in the soil, you can drench the soil with systemic products like Koinor, which also treats mealybugs, another pest of apples.

Regular spraying with contact insecticides is also needed for control and insecticidal soaps and oils are the best choices. Oils may include petroleum-based horticultural oils or plant-derived oils such as Neem or Canola oil. Thorough coverage of infested foliage is required, so apply with a pressure sprayer, and target the underside of the leaves as well as the top. Because soaps and horticultural oils only kill aphids present on the day they are sprayed, applications may need to be repeated.

Although these materials can kill some natural enemies that are present on the plant and are directly hit by the spray, they leave no toxic residue, so they won’t kill natural predators that migrate in after the spray. Never apply soaps or oils on water-stressed plants or when the temperature exceeds 32°C.

If they are applied in winter after pruning, and again, just as the eggs are beginning to hatch in early spring, Horticultural Oils will kill overwintering eggs of aphids on fruit trees.  These types of oils also control many other apple pests like red spider and two-spotted mites.

Why is there a black sooty mould growing on my trees?

Black sooty mould is a by-product of sap sucking by insects like mealybugs and aphids which produce sticky honeydew that encourages the growth of the mould. This sticks to the plant and can inhibit photosynthesis. As with aphids, the honeydew is harvested by ants who also protect the mealybugs from predators. If the mealybugs and their ant friends are controlled, the mould will disappear.

Click here to see Google Images of Black Sooty Mould

Natural predators of aphids include: parasitic wasps, hoverflies, lacewings, praying mantis, and even earwigs who love to snack on them as well.

Click here to see Google images of parasitic wasps

Click here to see Google images of hoverflies

Click here to see Google images of lacewings

Click here to see Google images of praying mantis

Click here to see Google images of earwigs

Stunting and deformation of plant parts are common symptoms of aphid infestations. In addition, aphids are excellent vectors of several virus diseases such as a group of mosaic viruses that infect a wide host range. In some cases, the appearance of virus symptoms indicates that aphids are present.

Click here to see Google images of Mosaic Viruses

Australian Bug Australian Bugs are native to Australia and spread to California in 1868 on imported orange trees infested with this scale. They thrived in the balmy climate and spread quickly, devastating Citrus orchards. They are now widespread and in some parts of the world these scales are kept in control by a predacious ladybird that is originally from Australia.Australian Bug is often mistaken by gardeners for large mealybugs.  Australian bugs are related to mealybugs, but the Australian bug is much larger and the female has a large fluted egg sac, containing hundreds of red eggs. Males are rare and females can reproduce without mating. The young crawlers are red and very active.

Australian bugs are not always noticed in the garden because they like to hide under branches, twigs or leaves, on the shaded and secluded parts of plants. They will occur more frequently in enclosed gardens that are sheltered from wind and winter is an ideal breeding time for them in these gardens, so do an inspection of your garden now. Infected plants will show leaf discolouration and severe leaf drop. Serious infestations can devastate plants like citrus, bay trees, acacia and many ornamental shrubs. Fruits like apricot, peach, plum, pears and apples can sometimes become infested.

Australian bugs suck sap from plants and produce copious amounts of a sticky honeydew, which looks rather like agglomerates of sugar crystals. This honeydew drops onto the leaves and fruit below, encouraging the growth of a black fungus called sooty mould. In many orchards ants make their nests at the base of trees; climbing the foliage to tend the scales and harvest the honeydew. They also protect the scale by driving away predators. Treat ant nests in the soil with natural pyrethrins. The ants can also be prevented access to the scales on trees by applying a thick band of grease or Vaseline, at least 20 cm wide, to the trunk of the tree. Care should be taken to trim any drooping branches touching the ground or walls etc. which could act as bridges for the ants.

Winter, spring or autumn are the best times to spray for Australian bugs because natural sprays can also kill beneficial predators of Australian bugs and these natural predators are not as active during the cooler months; we want to attract natural predators to our gardens, for natural controls.  Enemies of Australian bugs include parasitic wasps, lacewings and ladybirds. To control Australian bugs organically, first remove any badly infested plant material and then spray with any product containing canola oil and natural pyrethrins; this will kill adults on contact.  Mineral oil like Oleum and other organic products that are listed to kill aphids, mealybugs and scale are also effective.

Mealy Bug. Picture courtesy Scott CamazineThere are several species of Mealybugs, and they are related to scale insects, but unlike their close relatives, mealybugs retain their legs throughout their life. Because of their appearance, mealybugs may be confused for cottony cushion scale or wooly aphids.

Click here to see Google images of Mealybugs

Mealybugs are un-armoured scale insects in the family Pseudococcidae, which are found in tropical, moist, and warm habitats. These insects are small pink, slow-moving oval insects that are covered with a white, cottony wax, and they can infest all plant parts including the roots.

Long-tailed mealybugs have waxy filaments extending from their hind end, giving the appearance of a tail, and are covered with a white or grey cottony wax. These mealybugs don’t lay eggs, but bear live young in a manner similar to aphids. The young are born live underneath the wax threads that form a halo around the female. The males are short-lived as they do not feed at all as adults and only live to fertilise the females.

Most adult egg-laying mealybug species secrete long and delicate white wax filaments that partially camouflage the female while she lays her eggs. Egg-laying is dependent on temperatures, with one generation developing every one to three months, and fewer eggs are laid at high temperatures. Young females go through three instars (stages) and are mobile their entire lives, laying up to 600 small yellow eggs in a protective cottony mass. The eggs only take 6 days to hatch, and after laying eggs over a period of 5 to 10 days, the female dies.

Adult males are tiny and winged, but rarely seen, and they remain nymphs, meaning they remain in their immature stage and do not change greatly as they grow. They also only live for a few days, settling down to spin the protective cottony mass or cocoon around the eggs.

They will occur more frequently in small, enclosed gardens that are sheltered from wind, and winter is an ideal breeding time for them in these gardens, so do an inspection of your garden both in winter and summer.

Infected plants will show stunted growth, yellowing of the leaves, distorted plant tissue, and leaf drop, and serious infestations can devastate many ornamentals like cycad, cycas, bay trees, lilies, agapanthus, aloes, and fruits like citrus, cherry, grape, pineapple, avocado, granadilla and apples. Mealybugs are also common on indoor pot plants.

Once you notice any sign of mealybug, immediate measures must be taken to get rid of them. Mealybug colonies often appear at the base of  plants and leaves, looking like small tufts of white fuzz. They are not always noticed in the garden because they like to hide under branches, twigs or leaves, on the shaded and secluded parts of plants.

As mealybugs suck the sap from the plants and produce copious amounts of honeydew, this encourages the growth of a black fungus called “sooty mold”. Ants, who love the honeydew, protect the mealybugs against their natural predators. In many orchards ants make their nests at the base of trees, climbing the foliage to tend the mealybugs and to drive away their predators.

Treat ant nests in the soil with natural pyrethrins. The ants can also be prevented access to the mealybugs on trees by applying a thick band of grease or Vaseline, at least 20cm wide, to the trunk of the tree. Care should also be taken to trim any drooping branches touching the ground which would act as bridges for the ants.

Yellowed or wilted foliage may also indicate an underground mealybug infestation.

For potted specimens you can check for white cottony masses around drainage holes to determine whether a closer inspection of the roots is necessary. For specimens growing in garden beds you may be able to dig down into the soil a bit to try to identify them.

It's difficult to say exactly what causes them to show up, but overwatering seems to be a common cause, as is over fertilising. Often its best to remove and destroy plants with a severe mealybug infestation.

For natural controls of all insects we consider to be garden pests, we want to attract their natural predators to our gardens. Therefore, winter, spring or autumn are the best times to spray for Mealybugs because even natural sprays can also kill beneficial predators, and these natural predators are not as active during the cooler months. 

Enemies of Mealybugs include parasitic wasps, lacewings and ladybirds.

Click here to see Google images of parasitic wasps

Click here to see Google images of lacewings

Click here to see Google images of ladybirds

Mealybugs are treated in the same way as scale insects, and as with scale, you can typically control small populations by removing any badly infested plant material, and then washing them off with a strong jet of water, or rubbing the colonies off the leaves with a soft brush or cloth.

Hydrogen peroxide 9% can also be useful as part of a treatment program for mealybugs.

Spraying with any product containing canola oil and natural pyrethrins will kill adults on contact. 

Biogrow Neudosan; Biogrow Bioneem; Biogrow Pyrol; Margaret Roberts Organic Insecticide; and Oleum, all work well for mealybugs and scale insects.

If you suspect mealybugs in the soil, you can drench the soil with systemic products like Koinor.

We all know and love herbs because they spice up our life; making everything we eat taste and smell better. The prices of both dried and fresh herbs at vegetable and grocery stores is incredibly high; and taking into account that these extraordinary plants are some of the easiest to grow, it simply does not make sense not to grow your own!

Herbs will reward you not only with their taste and aroma, but also with their beauty and wonderful healing powers. Growing herbs is such a rewarding and interesting hobby, and their growing requirements so simple, that anyone with a patch of sunlight can grow their own.

In South Africa we are blessed with lots of sunshine, something almost all herbs love, so unless you live in an apartment with no garden it is best to plant them outdoors where they will receive at least 6 hours sun a day.Herbs grown in less sun can still be grown successfully but will tend to have straggly growth and be more susceptible to diseases. If possible try to locate your culinary herbs where they are easily accessible, and where pets won't contaminate the soil.

Herbs can be grown directly in garden beds and are great to plant amongst vegetables to help deter pests. They also grow beautifully in containers as long as the soil is light and fertile, and drains well. If your garden soil seems a bit heavy, dig in compost before sowing or planting. Add a dressing of bone meal at the bottom of each planting hole.

If you are planting into containers, a good soil mix is; 1 part good potting soil and 1 part compost to 2 parts coarse washed river sand (available from your garden centre). Ensure that there is a good layer of crocks or gravel at the bottom of your pots to cover the drainage holes and prevent them from blocking.

Before transplanting small herbs from their pots, water thoroughly and allow them to drain well before gently removing and planting. Ensure that they are not root bound, and if they are, gently loosen the bottom of the root ball before planting out. Pinch out the tips of shrubby herbs like basil and thyme to encourage bushy growth. Space your herbs according to their expected height and spread, allowing them room to develop. After planting firm the soil gently around the plant and water thoroughly.

Herbs enjoy regular watering in our hot climate but do not overwater. Newly planted herbs may require water daily until they are established, but thereafter should only require a good soaking every couple of days. When watering potted herbs, add water until it runs out the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Do not leave potted herbs standing in water for long as this may cause them to rot.

If your herbs are growing strongly and looking healthy it is not necessary to feed them at all, but if you are using them continually fertilising becomes very important during the summer months. Feed monthly with an organic fertiliser like 2:3:2, and mulch the soil when necessary with bulky organic material, such as shredded bark, peach pips or nut shells. If you are growing herbs in pots a light dressing of compost every spring will keep them flourishing.

If herbs are allowed to struggle a little their essential oils become more concentrated, giving them a stronger flavour and greater medicinal value. In short, don't fuss too much over them as they thrive on a bit of neglect.

Remove weeds from around your plants regularly and do not be afraid to prune your plants should they become leggy as this will encourage more growth.

Herbs are not very prone to pests but if you do have an infestation of aphids, red spider or white fly, you could either cut the whole plant back or use an organic pesticide.

Coriander, Danya, Cilantro
A member of the parsley family with a strong zesty taste which is used extensively in Asian, Indian, Mexican and Thai dishes. The leaves and seeds go well with beef, pork, lamb, chicken, fish and shellfish.

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Lemon Grass
An essential flavour in Thai, Vietnamese, Indian and Malaysian cuisine which also makes a delicious herbal tea and can be used to flavour rice, milk, puddings and cakes.

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French Tarragon
An essential ingredient in French cuisine; used in barnaise and hollandaise sauces, soups, fish, chicken, egg, vegetable dishes, herbal vinegars and salads. Like basil it goes well with tomatoes; use sparingly.

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Salad Burnet
Very popular in European cuisine; young leaves are added to salads, dressings, dips, soups, and stews. Delicious on sandwiches, with soft cheeses, herb butters, white sauce, vegetables, fish sauces, egg dishes and herbal vinegars.

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Winter Savory, Bean Herb, Bonekruid
Widely used in Italy, Germany and France, where it is used to flavor all bean varieties. It also combines well with pork, veal and fish. Use it in soups and stews, pates and game meats, or whenever a peppery flavor is required.

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Summer Savory, Bonekruid
Widely used in Italy, Germany and France to flavour salami, meat and freshwater fish dishes.It goes splendidly with green and haricot beans and is useful in soups, sauces, salads, stuffings, chicken and egg dishes.

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Lovage
Native to the Mediterranean region and south western Asia, Lovage was the key ingredient in the famous Maggie sauce. Its delicious with cabbage and potato salad, and meat, fish, poultry, soups, stews, sauces and stocks.

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Fennel
A must for many Italian dishes; the fleshy base of Florence Fennel is eaten raw or cooked. The leaves, flowers and seeds are used in pasta dishes, cabbage, potatoes, fish, fatty meats and sausages. The seeds are used for pickling, in herbal vinegars and when baking breads and cakes.

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Dill
Native to western Asia, Dill has been used for centuries to flavour vinegar and pickles, especially cucumber. The seeds are used in breads and sweets, meat stews, braised cabbage and many root vegetables. The leaves are added to fish and cheese dishes, beetroot, potato, apple and salads.

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Marjoram & Oregano
Both are native to the Mediterranean; Marjoram is used in English and French cooking and Oregano is a regular addition to Italian, Greek and Mexican dishes. Use them in chicken and meat dishes, especially lamb; and to compliment tomato sauces, pasta, pizza, salads and marinades.

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Rosemary
Commonly used to flavour Mediterranean dishes; Rosemary is especially good with lamb, but can be added to many meat and poultry dishes, roasts, casseroles and potjies. Delicious in marinades, on roasted vegetables and in cheese dishes. Steep fresh sprigs of rosemary in oil, vinegar or wine to flavour salad dressings and sauces. Use sparingly.

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Mint
Mint is an ancient and revered herb; there are so many varieties which cross-breed so easily that it is sometimes difficult to differentiate between them. Mint sauce is traditionally eaten with peas and roast lamb and is delicious if added to potato, pasta, rice and beetroot. It is refreshing if added to ice cream and summer drinks, especially apple juice.

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Thyme
Originating in the Mediterranean regions, Thyme and is used to flavour casseroles, soups, stews, fish and meat dishes; especially pork and poultry. It is delicious in breads, sauces and marinades, as well as with vegetables like eggplant, marrow, tomato, onion, beans and beetroot. Fresh leaves can be added to butter, salads and anything savory like omelets and potato salad.

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Moss Curled Parsley & Italian Parsley
The most widely used culinary herb complementing any savoury dish; especially salads, meat and fish dishes, pasta and cheese sauces. Italian parsley has flat leaves with a more distinctive taste that is not as bitter as Moss Curled Parsley; it also stands up to long cooking times better.

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Sage
Sage originates from the Mediterranean regions and is used to flavour pork, veal, goose, duck and fish. It is delicious with cheese, onion, eggplant, tomato and egg dishes, and a favourite for rich and creamy sauces. Add it to pea, bean and vegetable soups; dumplings, scones and stuffing. Use sparingly.

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Sweet Basil Genovese
Sweet Basil originates from India but is an important ingredient in Italian cooking. Add it liberally to pasta and all tomato-based dishes, as well as to eggplant, zucchini, marrow, spinach and squash. It is delicious with peas, lentils, salads and cream cheese. Try it with poultry, veal, liver and kidneys; or steep it in vinegar for a savoury dressing.

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Chives
One of the most ancient of herbs, Chives were first recorded in China 4000 years ago. They are loved for their mild onion flavour which makes them a wonderful addition to summer salads. The fully opened flowers are also used to decorate salads and add colour and texture. Dried and crushed with a coarse sea salt they make a delicious chive salt.

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Storing herbs is economical

Growing, and storing your own fresh herbs is not only fun and very rewarding, but it will save you a lot of money as well, and who doesn't want to save where they can nowadays? We are so blessed in South Africa to be able to grow our herbs outdoors all year round. Most herbs like thyme, oregano, marjoram, rosemary etc can take frost, but herbs like basil will not tolerate frost and are grown as a summer annual in frosty regions.

In cold regions the growth of even the hardiest of herbs will slow down dramatically in winter, and if you are using them continually you may run out; so why not dry or freeze some of your favourites to use in those hearty winter soups and stews. You can also make your own herbal salts, vinegars and herbal oils.

Drying Herbs

In our warm climate it is easy to dry summer herbs for use in winter; all you need is warmth and a shady, well-ventilated place to hang them. You can harvest herbs for drying anytime, but most herbs reach the peak of their condition just before their flowers burst into bloom and the oil glands in their leaves are rich and full of flavour. 

In cold regions, take your last harvest in late summer, so that the new growth has time to harden up before the frosts arrive. If you are drying flower heads like lavender or yarrow, gather them just before they are fully open and handle them very gently to avoid bruising.

If you are drying culinary seeds like dill, fennel or coriander, wait until the seeds are fully mature and cut the seed heads together with their stalks for easy handling, and tie a brown paper bag or envelope over the bunches to catch the seeds as they fall.

The ideal time to harvest herbs

The ideal time to harvest herbs for drying is early in the morning before the heat of the sun lessens their oil content. Harvest once the dew has evaporated and the plants are totally dry. Never wash herbs just before drying them, rather cut them after rain, or wash the plants clean with a hosepipe beforehand. Never dry them in the sun as this destroys the essential oils.

Drying needs to be done as quickly as possible if the herbs are to retain their quality, colour, taste and aroma; so do not be tempted to harvest more than you can dry at one time. Handle the cut herbs gently and tie them into small bundles before hanging them upside down in a dry, well-ventilated, place. Alternatively, you can spread them out on brown paper to dry, turning them occasionally. 

A very good method is to dry herbs in a cool oven with the door left ajar; this method works especially well on juicy, soft-leaved herbs like mint, parsley, basil, lemon balm and lovage; or for flowers which must be dried quickly in order to retain their colours. Lay the herbs on cooling racks covered with brown paper; turn the herbs occasionally and check regularly to avoid overheating. The herbs are ready to store when the leaves are paper dry and fall easily off the stems when rubbed lightly.

Store the dry herbs in airtight, dark glass bottles, away from sunlight and heat. Generally dried herbs are stronger than fresh herbs and should be used more sparingly.

Plastic and metal containers are not suitable for storing herbs, as they may affect the chemistry of the plant. Don't forget to label your dried herbs and include the date on the label.  Most herbs should last approximately two years if stored correctly.

Freezing Herbs

Most culinary herbs can easily be frozen, and certain herbs like the leaves of basil, fennel, dill, chervil, mint and chives are not worth the effort of drying because they lose most of their flavour when dried. Pick the herbs fresh and rinse if necessary to ensure that they are clean. Dry them thoroughly before storing them in plastic bags or containers in the freezer. When needed they can be taken directly from the freezer and chopped or crumbled as required.

Alternatively you can finely chop the fresh herbs and tightly pack them into ice cube holders, cover with water and freeze. Once frozen the ice cubes can be stored in plastic bags or containers in the freezer. Don't forget to label the packets.

Try freezing pretty flowers such as Borage, or leaves such as Mint in ice cubes to add to cold drinks. 

Herbal Vinegars

Herb vinegars are great fun to make and are usually made with good white wine, brown malt, or cider vinegar, but you can certainly experiment with the vinegar of your choice. Suitable fresh herbs include thyme, basil, bay, dill leaves, fennel, marjoram, chervil, garlic, mint, savory, rosemary, tarragon, garlic, chillies and shallots. Be adventurous with your choices and don't forget those aromatic seeds like black pepper, fennel and dill. Use in salad dressings, mayonnaise, marinades, stews, soups, sauces and gravies.

To make herbal vinegar, bruise or pound the herbs in a mortar and pestle, heat up the vinegar until hot but not boiling before pouring it over the herbs. Cover and allow the liquid to cool down completely before pouring into an airtight glass jar. Keep sealed for two weeks and shake the jars occasionally. 

After about two weeks the vinegar can be strained and re-bottled; add a few fresh sprigs of herbs to make it look pretty, and your herbal vinegar is ready to use on those wonderful leafy salads, in marinades and many other sauces. Do not store your herbal vinegar in a bottle with a metal cap as the vinegar will react with it and turn black.

Herbal oil infusionHerbal Oils

For preserving fresh herbs in oil, it is best to use a good quality oil that does not have a pronounced taste, like a good virgin olive or sunflower oil.

Ensure that the herbs are completely dry and clean before bruising or pounding them in a mortar and pestle. Add some of the oil while pounding and then transfer to a glass jar and add the rest of the oil. Seal the jars or cover them with a cloth and allow the herbs to infuse for about 2 weeks, shaking the mixture periodically.  If the mixture is not strong enough the oil can be strained and more freshly pounded herbs added and allowed to infuse. This process can be repeated several times if you want a stronger infusion.

Once the flavour is too your liking, strain the mixture and pour the oil into a glass bottle or jar, add some freshly picked herbs that have not been bruised and seal. The oil will be ready to use and more oil can be added as required, to keep the herbs covered.

Any of your favourite culinary herbs can be infused with oil, including basil, garlic, peppercorns, chillies, rosemary, thyme, marjoram, juniper berries, etc. Basil does not dry easily and is wonderful if infused with oil; other herbs to try include thyme, rosemary, marjoram, fennel, tarragon and savory. Use in salad dressings and marinades as well as for basting grilled and roasted meat and fish.

Herbal Salts

Another great way to store herbs is in salt which can be rubbed onto fish and meat before cooking, or to season vegetables, soups, stews etc. You can use any salt but sea salt or pure rock salt have a wonderful flavour and are better for you than over refined table salt.  You can use any dried or ground herbs you like, pound them in a mortar and pestle before mixing them into the salt and storing in an airtight jar. Try ground peppercorns, coriander, cumin and fennel seeds, or dried bay leaves, basil and parsley; or chilli and garlic flakes etc.

Picture courtesy Annette MorganTansy (Tanacetum vulgare)

Tansy is a lovely old-fashioned garden herb that belongs to the Aster family and is native to temperate Europe and Asia. It is a vigorously growing perennial plant that can spread prolifically. It has been introduced to other parts of the world and in some cases has become invasive. Tansy bears beautiful clusters of yellow button-like flowers in summer, on tall stems up to 150cm tall and can spread 80cm wide.

Its grey-green fern-like leaves have a strong, pungent scent which makes it an excellent insect repelling plant that repels ants, aphids, beetles, cabbage moth, cucumber beetle, cutworms, fruit moth, mice, potato beetle, squash bug, squash vine borer and white fly. Plant it with cucumbers, squash, cabbage, peppers and potatoes. It is also excellent planted between roses, various berries and in the fruit orchard. Both the growing and the dried plant are used and are especially effective if mixed with elder leaves (Sambucus spp.) If taken in excess tansy can be toxic, so wash your vegetables thoroughly before cooking if tansy has been sprayed onto them.

Tansy makes a wonderful addition to the compost heap, being valued for its mineral content. Sprinkle chopped leaves and flowers around the garden to deter ants and mice. Rub the leaves into the coat of dogs and cats to prevent fleas. Hang bunches of the leaves indoors and rub the fresh leaves onto windowsills, counter tops and chair legs etc, to deter flies and to keep ants away. Dried tansy mixed with dried elder leaves placed in  bowls around the house is of great benefit to people who are asthmatic or allergy prone and who cannot tolerate commercial insect sprays. A strong brew of tansy tea can be poured into mosquito infested ponds and sprayed over boggy, moist areas that may harbour mosquitoes. 

Planting tansy around aviaries and chicken runs will keep lice, fleas and ticks away; pour a brew made of the leaves into the soil around the outside perimeter of runs etc. This brew can be poured over tick infested cattle for 3 days consecutively, with good results. It can also be poured down ant nests and if combined with khakibos gives excellent results. To make a brew, pour one bucket of boiling water over a half a bucket of chopped leaves and flowers and leave to steep overnight.

Tansy is an evergreen perennial that is hardy to frost and loves to grow in full sun. It will succeed in any ordinary garden soil that drains well. It is a water wise plant that does not need much watering. A site for growing this plant should be selected with care since it usually spreads very aggressively at the roots and by seed. Cut out the spent flower stems regularly and prune it right down to the ground at the end of summer to keep it neat. Clumps divide readily in spring, or at any time during the growing season.

The leaves and the flowering shoots contain 0.15% of an essential oil that contains camphor, borneol and thujone. Thujone is an effective insecticide, but it is highly toxic to mammals when taken in excess. In the past Tansy was used as flavouring for all sorts of things from omelettes to bourbon because of its strong aroma, but is almost unknown now. A green dye is obtained from the young leaves and the flowers are used to obtain a yellow dye. It is highly toxic to internal parasites, and has been used by herbalists to expel worms for centuries and is a good remedy for gout. It contains volatile oils which can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals and, if taken internally, result in toxic by-products being produced in the liver and digestive tract as the plant's oils are broken down. Always consult your physician before starting a home treatment programme. Tansy should not be used during pregnancy and may interfere with male fertility drugs.

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