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Tulbaghi fragransCondensed Version:

The two most popular tulbaghias with gardeners are the Cape Wild Garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) and Sweet Wild Garlic (Tulbaghia simmleri), because they have attractive flowers throughout the growing season and are proven low maintenance landscaping plants.

(Cape Wild Garlic)

Cape Wild Garlic can reach a height of +-35 to 50cm; forming a clump +-25 to 30cm wide. The long, narrow, strap-like, slightly fleshy leaves smell strongly of garlic when bruised. Clusters of up to 20 mauve, tubular flowers, are held above the leaves on a tall flower stalk, and appear over a long period from September to April.

It can be planted in both full sun and partial shade; is hardy to frost and thrives in hot, dry beds, making it useful for those difficult hot corners of the garden; requiring only moderate watering during dry spells to keep it looking great.

(Sweet Wild Garlic)

Sweet Wild Garlic has grey-green leaves and larger flowers than Tulbaghia violacea. The lavender-pink flowers are excellent cut flowers and will fill an entire room with their sweet fragrance.  In its summer-rainfall habitat it will flower from spring to autumn, whereas at Kirstenbosch, with its winter-rainfall climate, it flowers during the winter months and into spring. The leaves are not as strong smelling as Tulbaghia violacea; smelling of onions if crushed.

It is easy to grow and hardy to moderate frost, but is not hardy to prolonged freezing temperatures. It also prefers a lightly shaded position, or morning sun and afternoon shade. The plant grows +-20 to 35cm tall and wide; is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas, and will tolerate humidity.

Tulbaghia simmleri Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Tulbaghia are bulbous or rhizomatous clump-forming perennials with linear, leaves and umbels of small, star-shaped flowers with a small cup-like corona. It is a small genus of about 20 species from southern Africa, and several cultivars exist for some species.

The Latin name Tulbaghia was named after Ryk Tulbagh (1699-1771), governor of the Cape of Good Hope, who corresponded with and sent plants from the Cape to Carl Linnaeus; violacea means violet-coloured.

The two most popular tulbaghias with gardeners are Tulbaghia violacea and Tulbaghia simmleri, because they have attractive flowers throughout the growing season and are proven low maintenance landscaping plants.

Most of the species of tulbaghia are adapted for moth pollination, with flowers that become sweetly scented at night. Tulbaghia violacea, however, seems to be pollinated by butterflies and bees because it is scented during the day.

Cape Wild Garlic, utswelane, isihaqa (Tulbaghia violacea)

This is a very cold hardy and fast growing little evergreen plant which can be found growing wild in the Little Karoo, the Eastern Cape and in Kwazulu-Natal; commonly found growing on moist sandy coastal soils, near rivers, in grasslands and on rocky slopes. It can reach a height of +-35 to 50cm; forming a clump +-25 to 30cm wide. The long, narrow, strap-like, slightly fleshy leaves smell strongly of garlic when bruised. Clusters of up to 20 mauve, tubular flowers, are held above the leaves on a tall flower stalk, and appear over a long period from September to April. The flowers also smell of garlic when bruised. The fruits are small 3 sided capsules which split open to disperse the flattened, hard black seeds. It is often used in hybridization with other tulbaghia species.

This popular water-wise plant is so adaptable; growing in both full sun and partial shade. It is hardy to frost and thrives in hot, dry beds, making it useful for those difficult hot corners of the garden; requiring only moderate watering during dry spells to keep it looking great.

Variegated Wild Garlic (Tulbaghia violacea 'Silver Lace')

'Silver Lace' is a hybrid cultivar with attractive variegated grey and white striped leaves that are also garlic scented when bruised. Umbels of delicate mauve flowers on long stalks are borne throughout most of the year; and are sweetly scented at night. It grows +-30 to 50cm tall and can thrive in very poor soils.

Sweet Wild Garlic, Fragrant Tulbaghia, Soetwildeknoffel, Aandblommetjie (Tulbaghia simmleri) (= Tulbaghia fragrans)

This evergreen  summer rainfall species is endemic to a relatively small area in the northern Drakensberg of Mpumalanga and in Limpopo, growing in isolation on rocky ledges, or in fairly dense colonies, in light but humid mountain forests at moderate altitudes between 960 to 1120m.

It has grey-green leaves and larger flowers than Tulbaghia violacea. The lavender-pink flowers are excellent cut flowers and will fill an entire room with their sweet fragrance. In its summer-rainfall habitat it will flower from spring to autumn, whereas at Kirstenbosch, with its winter-rainfall climate, it flowers during the winter months and into spring. The leaves are not as strong smelling as Tulbaghia violacea; smelling of onions if crushed.

It is easy to grow and hardy to moderate frost, but is not hardy to prolonged freezing temperatures. It also prefers a lightly shaded position, or morning sun and afternoon shade. The plant grows +-20 to 35cm tall and wide; is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas, and will tolerate humidity.

Tulbaghia fragrans 'Alba'

'Alba' has pure white flowers.

Uses:

Tulbaghia violacea is used in a variety of ways by indigenous people. The Zulus plant it around huts to keep snakes away; and the rhizome is also used to make an aphrodisiac medicine. Because of its strong smell when crushed, the leaves may discourage moles from the garden. The smell also repels fleas, ticks and mosquitoes when crushed on the skin; and may be effective in discouraging cats from the garden.

Health Benefits:

Several species of Tulbaghia have economic and medicinal importance; and a recent study of Tulbaghia violacea has also shown properties which may hold the potential for treating high blood pressure (hypertension). The leaves and rhizomes have found various medicinal uses, including the treatment of coughs, colds, flu, fevers, tuberculosis, asthma, and oesophageal cancer. The bulb has also been used as a remedy for intestinal worms. Wild garlic may prove to have the same or similar antibacterial and antifungal activities as has been scientifically verified for real garlic.

Tulbaghia simmleri is not generally used in traditional medicine, but is sometimes used as a substitute for T. violacea. The leaves are eaten fresh or cooked; but it seems that the much weaker garlic-like smell would indicate that it contains a lower concentration of the active sulphur compounds, thus making it a less effective medicine.

Pets:

The leaves can be used in dog kennels to keep fleas and ticks away; and the strong smell may keep cats out of your garden.

Click here to read my article on herbs that are good for cats and dogs

Culinary:

The Zulus use the leaves and flowers as spinach and as a hot, peppery seasoning with meat and potatoes. Both the leaves and flowers can be used in salads and other dishes much like chives and the bulbs can be used like spring onions.

In the Garden:

Wild garlic is a popular groundcover for large open areas on pavements, in complexes, office parks and shopping centre parking lots. It can also be used to good effect in rockeries, courtyard gardens and as an edging plant.

Companion Planting:

Wild garlic is a good companion plant for roses and other shrubs prone to aphid attack.

Tulbaghia violaceaCultivation/Propagation:

(Tulbaghia violacea) is a very popular water-wise plant; growing in both full sun and partial shade. It is hardy to frost and thrives in hot, dry beds, making it useful for those difficult hot corners of the garden; requiring only moderate watering during dry spells to keep it looking great.

(Tulbaghia simmleri) is easy to grow and prefers a lightly shaded position, or morning sun and afternoon shade. It is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas, and will tolerate humidity. It is hardy to moderate frost, but is not hardy to prolonged freezing temperatures.

Tulbaghias grows very easily in most well-drained soils. Add some compost to the planting holes and mulch annually to keep the plants growing vigorously and blooming. Although these tough plants will tolerate long periods of drought, they thrive in the garden if watered moderately during prolonged hot, dry spells. Leave the plants undisturbed for as long as possible, but very large clumps can be divided in spring or autumn.

Propagate from seed sown in spring into deep seedling trays, to be planted out during their second year. Propagation is very easy by division of large clumps. Once the clumps that have been divided, they should be left undisturbed for as long as possible.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Tulbaghias seldom fall prey to pests and diseases, but slugs and snails can cause considerable damage to the foliage.

Toxicity:

Wild garlic is not poisonous.

Caution:

The information contained within this website is for educational purposes only, recording the traditional uses of specific plants as recorded through history. Always seek advice from a medical practitioner before starting a home treatment programme.

See under Bulbous Plants

Condensed Version:Watsonia borbonica 'Pink'

Many watsonia species are losing habitat throughout their range due to crop cultivation; making it important for us to continue cultivating them in our gardens.

Because they are so easy to grow and have a long flowering period, watsonias are ideal for busy gardeners. They are also perfect water-wise plants for the winter rainfall regions; thriving in a Mediterranean climate.

They are suitable for all gardens and look magnificent in mass plantings; or planted in clumps in herbaceous borders; or even in large containers.

They are also excellent for soil retention on banks.

All species are perennial herbs growing from corms and producing attractive upright lance shaped leaves and erect spikes of showy flowers during spring and early summer (September to around January in South Africa).

Prior to this, it endures a growth stage and, after flowering, will die back for the hottest time of the year (February and March).

Watsonias are easy to grow in full sun or light shade; and although most are adapted to a winter rainfall climate, they will still thrive under summer rainfall conditions provided they are grown in well-drained soil and can be watered during their growing season.

Watsonia pillansiiFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Watsonia is a genus of plants in the Iris family and endemic to South Africa; meaning originally they could not be found growing wild anywhere else in the world. Having said this, watsonia species were introduced as garden ornamentals to Australia in the mid-19th century and were widely grown by the 1940s. Today, in the South-West of Western Australia, six species have escaped from garden cultivation and become naturalised along rivers, wetlands and seasonally wet ground. In places Watsonias have displaced native understorey flora and high concentrations of them create a fire hazard in summer. Watsonia meriana var. bulbillifera is also a weed in New Zealand, Réunion and Mauritius; and Watsonia borbonica has naturalised itself in the USA.

There are about 52 Watsonia species; most of which are concentrated in the south-western parts of the Western Cape, but also extending north into Namaqualand and east into the summer rainfall areas of southern KwaZulu-Natal, Lesotho, Mpumalanga and Swaziland. Most are deciduous fynbos plants which are adapted to a Mediterranean-type climate with hot, dry summers and wet winters; and the majority of the species occur in mountainous regions, with a couple occurring in sandy flats and marshy areas.

Watsonia fourcadeiThose which occur in the summer rainfall regions are evergreen.  Evergreen selections include; Watsonia angusta, Watsonia fourcadeii, Watsonia galpinii, Watsonia knysnana, Watsonia pillansii and Watsonia zeyheri. Deciduous selections include; Watsonia borbonica, Watsonia marginata, Watsonia meriana and Watsonia vanderspuyiae

Watsonias will burst into bloom during the spring and early summer months (September to around January in South Africa). Prior to this, it endures a growth stage and, after flowering, will die back for the hottest time of the year (February and March). The flowers last for four or five weeks, making this a rewarding addition to the garden.

All are perennial herbs growing from corms 30 to 40mm in diameter with grey-brown tunics; producing attractive upright lance shaped leaves and erect spikes of showy flowers. In the wild the plants flower particularly profusely in the first and second years following a fire; and in recently burnt areas provide a major source of food for nectar-feeding birds, insects and rodents.

The most commonly cultivated species is the pink-flowered Watsonia borbonica and its white mutant Watsonia 'Arderne's White'.

(Watsonia borbonica)

Watsonia borbonica grows in the extreme southwest of the Western Cape, from Tulbagh southwards to the Cape Peninsula and eastwards to Bredasdorp. It is commonly found growing on rocky sandstone slopes or well-drained slopes of clay and granite, and sometimes in deep sandy soil at the foot of the mountains.

This stately plant produces upright, broad and glossy, sword-shaped leaves, and 2m tall spikes of rose-pink, trumpet-shaped flowers.  

Watsonia meriana(Watsonia aletroides) Rooipypie

The Rooipypie ranges from the Bot Rivier to Knysna and Uniondale and is widely distributed; occurring on clay soils throughout the Overberg, the Riversdale Plain, the Little Karoo and Upper Breede River Valley. It is still found on renosterveld fragments in the Overberg.

This beautiful watsonia has pendulous blooms in shades of pink, orange or red, and only reaches +-55cm tall, making it excellent for smaller gardens and pot cultivation.

(Watsonia marginata)

Marginata is also a Cape species and has flowers which are different from other watsonias in that they are cup-shaped rather than trumpet-shaped, and are held on unusually long spikes +-1.2 to 2 meters tall, with up to 50 densely packed flowers.

Flowers can be mauve, pink, white or maroon. The leaves are also most attractive, being broad, bluish-green in colour, with conspicuous yellowish margins.

(Watsonia fourcadei)

Watsonia fourcadei is found in the Eastern and Western Cape and has pretty salmon pink flowers. It grows +- 90 to 180cm tall.

Watsonia borbonica ssp ardernei 'White'(Watsonia pillansii) 

Watsonia pillansii can be found growing wild in the Eastern and Western Cape, and KwaZulu-Natal and is an extremely handsome watsonia with broad, grey strap shaped leaves and bright orange flowers. It grows +-50 to 120cm tall; multiplies rapidly; and prefers moist conditions.

(Watsonia meriana)

Watsonia meriana has many garden hybrids in cream, pink and red, and puts on a spectacular show. It grows +- 60cm to 1m tall, making it great for smaller gardens and pot culture.

In the Garden:

Many Watsonia species are losing habitat throughout their range due to crop cultivation; making it important for us to continue cultivating them in our gardens. Because they are so easy to grow and have a long flowering period, watsonias are ideal for busy gardeners.

They are also perfect water-wise plants for the winter rainfall regions; thriving in a Mediterranean climate. They are suitable for all gardens and look magnificent in mass plantings; or planted in clumps in herbaceous borders; or even in large containers. They are also excellent for soil retention on banks. When not in bloom, the foliage is still decorative and after flowering has finished, attractive seed pods are produced.

Watsonias are great subjects for low maintenance gardens and their flowers will attract sunbirds. The blooms last quite well in a vase, so feel free to cut the stems for bouquets as this will not hurt the plants.

Watsonia mixed Picture courtesy HadecoCultivation:

Watsonia are easy to grow in full sun or light shade; and although most are adapted to a winter rainfall climate, they will still thrive under summer rainfall conditions provided they are grown in well-drained soil and can be watered during their growing season. If drainage is a problem, cultivate them in raised beds or containers.

They do not require rich soil, but adding compost to the beds when planting; and mulching around the roots occasionally will give them a boost. They also do not need copious amounts of fertilisers; and an occasional feeding during the growing season (autumn, winter and spring) with small doses of a balanced organic fertiliser will be sufficient.

Actively growing and blooming plants will look at their best if watered moderately during long dry spells. If the plants are happy in their position they will multiply freely, making them perfect for busy gardeners.

In South Africa corms become available in March and April and are planted out in March, April or May. Plant the corms at a depth of approximately half their diameter (+-4 to 6cm deep) and about 10 to 15cm apart. The corms look like fat, flat gladiola bulbs and there is a small point or even a bit of last year's stem on the side that should be placed facing up. Water well after planting; and moderately thereafter until established.

Watsonia borbonicaAt the end of the growing season the leaves will turn yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. Don't cut off the dying leaves until they turn completely brown, because they will gather sunlight to create food through photosynthesis; strengthening the bulb for the future.

The plants will remain dormant until the next growing season and in areas with excellent drainage they can be left in the soil, but if you live in a very cold region, or irrigate your garden all year round, it may be better to lift and store the corms when they have finished blooming.

The clumps will continue to flower regularly as long as they do not become overcrowded. Lifting and dividing the plants every three to five years will keep them blooming well.

Pot Cultivation:

If you wish to grow them in containers, choose large heavy ones because watsonias can grow quite tall. Plant the corms a bit closer together than you would in garden beds for a glorious show.

Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium should work fine; but if you're worried about drainage, add some washed river sand to the mixture. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes because watsonias must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot. Also, do not allow the pots to stand in drip trays full of water for long.

In the winter rainfall region the winter rains usually begin in April and potted plants should be watered sparingly at this time. In the summer rainfall regions you will need to water regularly during the growing season. During the dormant period, stop watering pot-grown specimens and if necessary, move them to a cool, dry place. 

Site your containers where they will receive full sun and water regularly during dry periods. Watsonia will form sizeable clumps over time and eventually flowering will diminish. When this occurs, dig up the clump and separate it into a number of smaller plants.

Watsonia borbonica 'Dark Pink'Propagation:

Watsonia borbonica produces offsets abundantly, and the easiest method of propagation is by division. Clumps can be lifted and divided at any time during the dormant season and re-planted in autumn. After lifting, store the corms in a cool, dry place or re-plant immediately to avoid mealy bug infestation.

Seed is sown from April to June into deep seedling trays. Sow thinly into a well-drained medium like, 2 parts sand, 2 parts compost, and 1 part loam. Seeds should be planted 3 to 4mm deep, covered with clean sand and kept moist and lightly shaded. Protect them from rain during this period. Seed germinates readily within 3 to 4 weeks. Reduce watering towards the end of the growing season and withhold completely when they young plants are dormant; resuming again in the autumn. Plants grown from seed should start flowering in their second or third year.

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Watsonias are generally hardy plants with few pests and diseases attacking them; but watch out for snails and slugs who occasionally eat the leaves , and thrips which can damage the flowers.

Agapanthus 'Blue Velvet'What to do in your garden in January

All Regions

January marks mid-summer in the garden and the weather can be very unpredictable; it can be terribly hot and dry; or extremely wet. There is a lot to be done in the garden this month; in regions that have received heavy rains it is essential to feed regularly, as heavy rains leach food out of the soil. In very hot and dry regions do not overfeed, especially with high nitrogen feeders, as this will encourage lush, soft growth that is easily scorched. In hot regions try to do your gardening chores in the early morning or in the late afternoon.

Do not transplant shrubs this month and plant seedlings in the cool of the evening. To keep your bedding plants flowering into autumn, continue to feed them and cut out the dead flowers regularly; it is also time to start sowing many winter flowering annuals and vegetables.

Before planting that cute little Christmas tree you bought into the garden, please find out how big it grows first.  Most varieties are very large growing and will eventually dwarf small gardens, producing dense shade and allowing nothing to grow underneath them.  Rather consider re-potting your tree into a larger container and growing it on for next year. Place the pot in a semi-shaded position for a few weeks, so that it can acclimatise to the outdoors, before moving it into direct sun.

Roses

Preventative spraying of roses is the best control method for pests and diseases; during wet weather the plants are susceptible to black spot, and in hot dry weather they can be plagued by red spiders, so keep a look out for these. Continue to fertilise regularly and prune lightly if necessary to remove any weak or spindly growth; but remember that roses need plenty of healthy leaves to protect them from the fierce summer sun.

Fuchsia 'Blue Eyes'. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyAzaleas, Camellias, Hydrangeas & Fuchsias

Water loving plants like azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas and fuchsias need plenty of water during hot, dry spells and will benefit from having their leaves sprayed down regularly with water.

Your camellias will be forming their winter and spring buds now, so water them regularly but don’t over fertilise them now as this may cause them to abort their flower buds in favour of new leaf growth.

Remove any seeds from your fuchsia plants and pinch back the growing tips that are not flowering, this will encourage the formation of secondary buds along the stems; feed with organic 3:1:5.

Remove faded flowers from your hydrangeas unless you want to keep them for autumn colour. Cut them back to the first pair of healthy, plump looking buds; and tidy them up by cutting old woody stems out completely at the base of the plant. This will encourage new basal growth. 

Members can click on highlighted plants for more info.

Lawn

Do not cut your lawn too short, keep it at a height of 5cm, and remove any grass cuttings immediately.  Fertilise regularly with a balanced, organic fertiliser. A fertiliser high in potassium like 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 will encourage strong, deep roots that are more heat tolerant.

Mulch

If necessary, mulch your beds with a layer of compost or bark chips, to conserve moisture.  Do not mulch with wood shavings, as this will attract white ants. Coarse bark mulch, bought from a reputable supplier contains a type of tannin, which repels white ants. Click here to read my article on mulching.

Chrysanthemum OrangePerennials and bulbous plants

Perennials and bulbous plants are wonderful additions to the garden, adding seasonal colour and contrast throughout the year. If carefully worked into the landscape and cared for correctly they never fail to perform and are a delight to have. Click here to find plant lists and articles on perennials.

Perennials

Do not split and divide perennials in summer when they are actively growing; rather do this in autumn, or in spring and early summer.

Cut back perennials like Shasta daisies, lavender and daisy bushes when they have finished blooming in order to promote a second flush of flowers before winter.

If you are planting potted chrysanthemums into the garden, first pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushy growth.

Tug out the flowering stems of Inca lilies (Alstroemaria) as they finish flowering and remove the spent flower spikes from your agapanthus. If your wild rhubarb (Acanthus) is untidy cut it right back to ground level, mulch it with compost and water well.

Bulbs

Lilium Oriental Hybrid Picture courtesy F. D. Richards from flickrPlant out bulbs of Amaryllis belladonna (March lily) as soon as they are available; and they should provide a romantic display of scented pink and white trumpet flowers in time for Valentine’s Day – remember to keep the necks of the bulbs above ground level.

Finish planting Nerine bulbs, and collect any ‘plantlets’ on the older stems of your day lilies to propagate.

Feed your Liliums and cut off the spent flower heads regularly, but when cutting leave as many leaves on the plant as possible, as these will produce food for next seasons flowers.

Sow Anemone and Ranunculus seed before the end of January, so that they will be ready for the winter and spring garden.

Cut back the spent flowering stems of Cannas to encourage continuous flower production, and water regularly.

Lift and divide overcrowded white and green Arum Lilies that are starting to die down. Cut off all the old leaves and replant only healthy plants, adding lots of compost and a generous sprinkling of bone meal.

Lily BorerPests & Diseases

Lily borer caterpillars

Check for lily borer caterpillars, they attack the bulbs and leaves of many plants like amaryllis, agapanthus, crinum, nerine, clivia, and crytanthus (George lily).  Spray regularly with Margaret Roberts Biological Caterpillar insecticide.

Red spiders

Red spiders are especially troublesome during hot, dry spells and affect many plants, including fuchsias, hydrangeas, roses, and beans.

Fungal diseases

During hot, humid days, or following heavy rainfall, fungal diseases like, powdery and downy mildew, rust and black spot are especially prevalent. Barberton daisies, roses, dahlias, daisy bushes, geraniums, hydrangeas and vegetables like pumpkin & squash, eggplant and tomatoes are very susceptible.

Take Semi-hardwood cuttings

Take semi-hardwood cuttings  of evergreen plants like buddleia, hibiscus, camellia, fuchsias, azaleas, daisy bushes, lavender cotton (Santolina), lavender and perennial vygies.

Cymbidium OrchidPrune

Prune wisteria climbers that are growing rampant but do not remove the new flower buds that are forming near the base of the new branches.  These will bloom next season. Lightly prune your bottle brushes when they have finished flowering. Remove all the soft, red-brown water shoots from the base of your bougainvilleas as soon as they appear.

Aquatic plants

Remove the decaying leaves from your aquatic plants in ponds, as they can pollute the water.

Cymbidium orchids

Start feeding your Cymbidium orchids with a feeder that is low in nitrogen but high in potash like 3:1:6 to encourage the formation of flower spikes.  Water and mist spray regularly in very dry regions.

Indoor pot plants

Mist spray your indoor pot plants regularly with water, this will keep them clean and healthy, especially in air-conditioned homes and offices where the air tends to be dry. Occasionally, place them outside in a shady spot and hose the leaves down gently with water, or even better, put them outside when it is raining gently.

Members can click on highlighted plants for more info.

New Potatoes Vegetables

Your vegetable garden should be flourishing, so harvest regularly to ensure that your plants keep producing. Carrots should be pulled before their shoulders go green, green beans before they become ‘stringy’, and baby marrows before they become too large. Lift and divide your shallots, replanting only healthy bulblets; and as your onions mature, reduce the amount of water they receive. When your onions are ready to harvest, lift them with a fork and shake off excess soil before laying them out to dry in a cool, well-ventilated place.

Once your potatoes have finished flowering, reduce watering, and when the leaves go yellow you can test to see if they are ready to lift. To store, brush off the excess dirt and ensure that the potatoes are completely dry before storing in a cool dark place – do now wash before storing. Provide support for heavily the laden branches of eggplant and tomatoes.

Feed and water your veggies regularly, especially in hot, dry weather; and if sowing seeds directly into garden beds in the heat of summer, remember that they may require watering twice a day; mulching with straw or dry grass cuttings will help to conserve moisture.

Always check your ‘weeks to maturity’ on the back of your seed packets before sowing vegetable crops at this time of the year, or crops which need a long growing season like eggplant, peppers, tomatoes and pumpkins will start maturing too late to be successful. In regions which experience early frosts, plant out only well-established seedlings of these slow maturing crops.

Continue sowing fast maturing summer vegetables like baby marrow, radish, spring onions and Swiss chard and plant only heat tolerant varieties of lettuce. January is the last month to sow green beans unless you live in subtropical areas.

Loose leaf varieties of lettuce like ‘Vera’, a lovely frilly red variety, and ‘Veneza Roxa’, a frilly green lettuce; and ‘Elise,’ a great butter lettuce are all heat and cold tolerant and grow quickly if grown correctly, making them ideal to sow or plant out now. Individual leaves can be harvested as required when the plants are young and the whole plant can be harvested towards the end of the growth cycle; making them perfect for summer salads.

Lettuce requires fertile, well-drained soil and grows best in semi shade in summer (30% shade is sufficient). Mulch the plants and water regularly, keeping the soil constantly moist; this prevents them from tasting bitter and running to seed. Water occasionally with 1 teaspoon of Epson salts to 1 litre of water for great leaf colour and taste. Keeping the seeds in the refrigerator overnight before sowing will help germination.

In cold winter regions start sowing slow maturing winter vegetables like Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kohlrabi now.

Comfrey FlowersHerbs

Continue to plant perennial herbs like thyme, oregano, marjoram and rosemary. In frosty regions sow a last crop of annual herbs like Basil, borage, coriander, dill, rocket, parsley, sage and mustard.

Take semi hardwood cuttings of herbs like rosemary, thyme, tarragon, oregano, marjoram and sage.

Comfrey has the most beautiful flowers and I cannot bring myself to cut them off until the flowers begin to fade; but cutting comfrey back as it comes into bloom will encourage a new batch of leaves. Add the harvested leaves to your compost heap or use them to make a wonderful liquid fertiliser.

Flowering annuals

January is an awkward time of the year to sow flowering annuals, especially in cold winter regions, as many of them will be at their best just when the cold winter weather hits, so check the ‘weeks to flowering’ on the back of your seed packet before sowing.

Instant colour seedlings from your nursery may be a better choice at this time of the year; try marigolds, vinca, celosia, verbena, alyssum, gazanias and cosmos for sunny areas, and begonias and coleus to brighten up shady areas.

Established petunias and salvia can be cut back, mulched and fertilised to encourage more flowers.

In cold winter regions it is time to start sowing winter and spring flowering seedlings such as pansy, cineraria, foxglove, aquilegia, Iceland poppy, viola, delphinium, larkspur and primulas into seedling trays. Keep them moist and in a cool, shaded area. Store larkspur and delphinium seed in the refrigerator before sowing to improve the germination rate.

Members can click on highlighted plants for more info.

strawberry barrelRFruit

Berries like loganberries, youngberries, raspberries and blueberries need to be fed and the new canes tied onto supports. Harvest your Cape gooseberries regularly and feed your strawberry plants with a high nitrogen fertiliser, water them regularly and mulch the soil.

Grapes are susceptible to downy mildew, so water early in the morning and spray regularly with an organic fungicide. Feed them this month with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen. As the grapes mature reduce watering; and for the best flavour only harvest them when they are fully ripe. Protect the ripening bunches from birds with mesh bags or bird netting.

If your citrus trees are bearing too many fruits, thin them out and water deeply and regularly, especially in dry regions.

Prune your deciduous fruit trees  like peaches and nectarines in the summer by removing any strong branches that are growing in the centre of the top of the tree and overshadowing the centre; or the fruit bearing shoots on the inside of the tree could die off because of a lack of sunlight, and developing fruit that receives too much shade will have a poor quality.  When your trees have finished bearing, feed them with a good general fertiliser like 2:3:2 and remove all fallen or rotten fruit from the ground.  Continue to splash fruit fly bait onto the leaves of late bearing varieties every ten days.

Spray quinces against coddling moth.

Feed tropical fruits like bananas, mangoes and paw-paws with a balanced fertiliser. Feed your avocado trees with an organic 3:1:6, this will help prevent the fruit from dropping prematurely. Feed your bananas with 3:1:6 and keep them moist.  You can also feed your paw-paws and mangoes with 3:1:6 or 2:3:2.

Summer rainfall (Temperate or Highveld Regions)

January is one of the hottest months of the year and it can be very windy, with lots of thunderstorms. Rain quickly leaches nutrients out of the soil, so fertilise your beds regularly with a balanced, organic fertiliser.

It is too late to sow most summer seedlings but you can still plant instant colour seedlings and fast maturing varieties.

In cold winter regions it is time to start sowing winter and spring flowering seedlings such as pansy, cineraria, foxglove, aquilegia, Iceland poppy, viola, delphinium, larkspur and primulas into seedling trays. Keep them moist and in a cool, shaded area. Store larkspur and delphinium seed in the refrigerator before sowing to improve the germination rate.

In cold Highveld areas start preparing your trenches to plant sweet peas. Choose a sunny spot and dig the trench 250mm deep and wide. Mix generous quantities of mature kraal manure and compost into the soil before putting it back into the trench, and adding one cup of slow release fertiliser per running meter;  water and allow the soil to rest until planting time.

In cold winter regions start sowing slow maturing winter vegetables like Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kohlrabi now.

.Sow or plant seedlings of Swiss chard, carrots, leeks, turnips, and parsnips, and do a final sowing of green beans.

Winter rainfall regions (Mediterranean)

January is one of the hottest months of the year and when the south-easter is blowing it dries out your soil quickly, so mulch your garden beds if you have not done so yet. Do not over fertilise this month; as this produces lots of soft, lush growth which wilts easily in the heat and wind, and requires more water. Water your shrubs and trees thoroughly and deeply once a week, as early in the morning as possible. You can also water late in the afternoon, as long as the leaves have time to dry out before nightfall. Windless, overcast evenings, combined with wet leaves, will encourage fungal diseases. You will need to water your seedlings and pots more often.

Replace tired bedding plants with heat-tolerant varieties like portulaca, marigolds and vinca. You can still plant seedlings such as alyssum, begonias, cleome, candytuft, cineraria, chrysanthemum, coleus, delphinium, dianthus, gypsophilla, larkspur, lobelia, nicotiana, nasturtium, petunia, pansy, viola, Iceland poppy, phlox and verbena.

Start sowing cool season crops like broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts into seedling trays this month and keep in a cool place. You can still plant or sow beetroot, carrots, parsley, radish, spring onions, Swiss chard, leeks, turnips, and heat tolerant lettuce. Make a final sowing of green beans, baby marrow, and patty pans.

Subtropical summer rainfall regions

January is one of the hottest months of the year, with lots of rain and high humidity; so don’t water in the evening, as this will promote fungal diseases; the best time to water is very early in the morning. Spray plants that are susceptible to fungal diseases regularly with an organic insecticide such as Ludwig Copper Count, or Biogrow Copper Soap.

If you have yellow spots on your lawn, it could be a fungal disease, consult with your local nursery and spray with an organic fungicide if necessary.

Rain quickly leaches nutrients out of the soil, so fertilise your entire garden regularly with a balanced organic fertiliser.

Keep a look out for insect infections like aphids and mealy bug - they thrive in hot humid conditions. Ants, white ants, scale and the rhinoceros beetle can also become problematic.

Check your bromeliads for scale and spray them with Oleum if necessary; do this in the cool of the afternoon.  Oleum is a mineral oil, which suffocates the scale, but can burn the leaves if sprayed in strong sunlight. Blast stagnant water out of the central vase of bromeliads with a jet of water; as this old stagnant water can breed mosquitoes.

Mist spray your staghorn ferns with water daily.

Lightly prune your acalypha bushes to encourage new shoots and remove the flower spikes from your crotons.  Nipping out the growing tips of poinsettias will encourage bushy growth.

Feed your avocado trees with an organic 3:1:6 to prevent the fruit dropping prematurely. Feed your bananas with 3:1:6 and keep them moist. You can also feed your paw-paws and mangoes with 3:1:6 or 2:3:2.

You can still sow seeds of alyssum, cleome, dianthus, salvia and nasturtium and you can still plant seedlings of cosmos, New Guinea impatiens, marigolds, vinca and verbena.

Sow peppers, tomatoes and eggplant now.

Dry, semi-arid and continental regions

Large parts of this region have very shallow soil, with rocky layers of shale underneath. These layers prevent the drainage of water around the roots of your plants. During very hot weather your plants may wilt, not from lack of water, but from too much water, so it is imperative that you water correctly. Water your shrubs and trees thoroughly and deeply once a week, as early in the morning as possible. You can also water late in the afternoon, as long as the leaves have time to dry out before nightfall. Windless, overcast evenings, combined with wet leaves, will encourage fungal diseases. You will, of course, have to water your seedlings and pots more often. 

Do not wet the leaves of your plants with brak (salty) water when the weather is very hot and windy, or the salts will burn the leaves. By installing rainwater tanks you will be able to grow plants that would not otherwise survive these conditions. Your pot plants will also thrive on rainwater.

In very hot, dry areas with brak (salty) water, wait until autumn to sow and plant seedlings. Hot wind and the heat make germination difficult now. Rather, dig lots of compost into your flowerbeds and wait until autumn.

Mulch your garden beds and do not over fertilise this month, as this produces lots of soft, lush growth, which wilts easily in the heat and wind, and requires more water.

Sow winter and spring flowering plants such as pansy, cineraria, foxglove, aquilegia, Iceland poppy, viola, delphinium, larkspur and primulas in trays now. Keep them moist and in a cool, shaded area. Store larkspur and delphinium seed in the refrigerator before sowing. In cooler areas, you can still plant out alyssum, marigold, portulaca and zinnia.

Start sowing cool season crops like broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts into seedling trays this month and keep in a cool place. Swiss chard, carrots, leeks, turnips, kohlrabi and parsnips.

Verbena Quartz Series. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyCondensed Version:

Verbena is a popular container plant and perfect for hanging baskets and window boxes. It also looks good in rock gardens, as an edging plant, or a short-lived but extremely colourful groundcover. The verbena hybrids are technically perennials, but most are grown as summer annuals.

There are hundreds of cultivars and several series of cultivars, varying in flower colour and growth habit.  Some are erect and bushy; others trailing and mat forming; some dense and compact; others open and spreading. The small individual flowers are borne profusely in dense clusters all summer and into autumn and come in shades which include white, pink, crimson, scarlet, vermilion, purple, blue, and yellow; some are bi-coloured; some have a central white eye; and some are fragrant.

Their main requirements are full sun and fertile but very well-drained soils; making them ideal for hot dry sites. Water regularly until your plants are established but thereafter, water them only when dry. Verbenas are susceptible to fungal diseases, especially in very humid regions, so try to avoid overhead watering.

If you don’t deadhead your verbena, it may quit blooming, but this need not be a tedious task - once the first blooms are spent, using secateurs, or for large areas, hedge cutters; simply clip off the top 1/4 of the stems that hold the faded flowers, and within weeks your plants will be in full bloom once again.

Verbenas should not be over fertilised and a feed once a year with a complete fertiliser will suffice, together with a mulch of compost. Over fertilising will encourage abundant leaf growth, but fewer blooms.

Verbena peruviana 'Twinkle Pink' Picture courtesy TuberfloraFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Verbena belongs to the Verbenaceae family of plants, which contains more than 1,100 species in about 30 genera and includes Duranta, Clerodendrum and Petrea. The majority of the 250 Verbena species originate in the Americas and Europe. Verbena X hybrida, the verbena hybrids or garden verbenas are a product of garden cultivation, and do not occur naturally in the wild. However some cultivars have escaped and become established in the southern U.S. The many cultivars of Verbena x hybrida are believed to have been selected from crosses between Verbena peruvuiana and Verbena phlogiflora, Verbena incisa, and Verbena teucroides. Each of these parent species grows naturally in South America.

The verbena hybrids are technically perennials, but most are grown as summer annuals. There are hundreds of cultivars and several series of cultivars, varying in flower colour and growth habit.  Some are erect and bushy; others trailing and mat forming; some dense and compact; others open and spreading. The small individual flowers are borne profusely in dense clusters all summer and into autumn and come in shades which include white, pink, crimson, scarlet, vermilion, purple, blue, and yellow; some are bi-coloured; some have a central white eye; and some are fragrant. Trailing varieties may extend 30 to 60 cm, and the largest erect forms may reach 45cm tall. Plant them en masse as a groundcover or in hanging baskets and pots for months of colour.

Verbena peruviana 'Donalena Deep Pink' Picture courtesy TuberfloraIn the Garden:

Because they flower so profusely, verbena is a popular container plant and perfect for hanging baskets and window boxes. It also looks good in rock gardens, as an edging plant, or a short-lived but extremely colourful groundcover. Garden centres sell them in 6-pack seedling trays, pots and hanging baskets, but if you have the time, they are easy to grow from seed sown in spring; so you don't need to spend a lot of money to reap the rewards of verbena. An added bonus is that their cut flowers last long in a vase and attract butterflies to the garden.

Cultivation:

In warm regions verbenas are grown as short-lived perennials, and although they are semi-hardy to frost, in cold regions they are usually treated as summer annuals and sown or planted in early spring once all danger of frost is over.

Their main requirements are full sun and fertile but very well-drained soils; making them ideal for hot dry sites. Water regularly until your plants are established but thereafter, water them only when dry. In very hot and dry regions they will need more regular watering to look at their best, and may appreciate some relief from extremely hot midday sun. Verbenas are susceptible to fungal diseases, especially in very humid regions, so try to avoid overhead watering.

Young plants may be pinched to promote bushier growth; and regular deadheading spent flowers will encourage additional blooms. If you don’t deadhead your verbena, it may quit blooming, but this need not be a tedious task - once the first blooms are spent, using secateurs, or for large areas, hedge cutters; simply clip off the top 1/4 of the stems that hold the faded flowers, and within weeks your plants will be in full bloom once again.

Verbena peruviana 'Donalena White Hail' Picture courtesy TuberfloraVerbenas should not be over fertilised and a feed once a year with a complete fertiliser will suffice, together with a mulch of compost. When planting out young seedlings, do not add fertiliser; wait until the plants are established and growing strongly. Over fertilising will encourage abundant leaf growth, but fewer blooms.

Propagation:

Propagation is by division or inter-nodal cuttings (i.e. cut between the nodes rather than just under them to make a cutting). Cuttings can be taken in late summer and in cold regions overwintered indoors. Containers can also be overwintered indoors; or new plants may simply be purchased or grown from seed each spring.

Verbena is relatively easy to start from seeds sown in well-drained soil, but germination might take as long as a month, so be patient. Start the seeds indoors in late winter or outdoors in early spring once all danger of frost is over. They germinate best in soil temperatures of 22 to 24°C. Sow into trays or individual peat or fibre pots, placing two seeds in each pot. They do not require light for germination, so cover lightly with seedling soil. Water regularly but allow the soil to drain well before watering again. Once the seedlings have 3 to 4 leaves per plant, clip out the weakest plant from each pot, or transplant the seedlings sown in trays. Harden off your plants by moving them outdoors for a few hours each day, gradually exposing them to more and more sunlight before planting them into the garden or containers. Once your seedlings are planted out and growing well, pinch out the centre shoot in each plant for bushier growth. Avoid high humidity in the growing environment as this can induce powdery mildew.

Pests & Diseases:

Verbena are relatively carefree if cared for correctly and grown in well-drained soil, and in fact, the main cause of problems with verbena is over-pampering, especially overfeeding and overwatering. Plants that are kept too moist and don’t get enough sun are susceptible to powdery or downy mildew, rust and other fungal diseases; so plant verbena in a sunny part of your garden to prevent this problem. Also, ensure that there is good air circulation around the leaves. Watch out for aphids, scale insects, slugs or snails, whitefly, thrips and spider mites.

See under Bedding Plants

See under Bedding Plants

See under Indoor Pot plant Section