Banish or treat winter illnesses with these herbs
Herbs to banish winter sicknesses
Many of the herbs in our gardens have wonderful antibacterial, antifungal and anti-oxidant properties. If made into an herbal infusion (tea), and taken regularly they can banish winter sicknesses like the common cold and flu.
If you are starting a herb garden in the winter months and live in a cold region, ensure that the herbs are sited in a very sheltered spot with plenty of sun. This can easily be achieved if they are grown in pots which can be moved with the seasons. Ensure that potted herbs have excellent drainage and do not overwater in winter; once or twice a week should suffice. Herbs also don’t like wet feet so do not leave them standing in drip trays full of water.
Autumn is also time to harvest and dry summer herbs for winter use.
Thyme & Lemon-scented Thyme (Thymus)
Thyme must be one of the finest herbs around because it contains a powerful volatile oil called “thymol” which is known for its powerful antiseptic, antiviral and antibacterial properties. Thymol is still used by pharmacists today in cough remedies as it acts as an expectorant, loosening phlegm in the respiratory tract so it can be coughed up. Fresh thyme tea is an effective treatment for the whole respiratory system and will strengthen the lungs; treating common coughs and colds as well as bronchitis, pneumonia, asthma and whooping cough; it is also an excellent gargle for sore throats and tonsillitis. Lemon thyme tea also tastes delicious, so I often add it to other herbal teas like parsley, which don’t taste very good. Adults can drink up to 3 cups per day.
Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon citrates)
Lemon grass is used internally to treat colds; and a leaf blade steeped in warm milk aids colic in children and helps to bring down a fever. The fresh leaves are used to make a tea.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
Lovage improves circulation, especially around the feet and sooths chilblains. A tea is given to patients to treat coughs, colds, bronchitis and respiratory tract infections. A broth can also be made with vegetables for children to make it taste better. Lovage should not be used as a remedy for pregnant woman or anyone with kidney disease.
Oregano (Origanum)
Recent studies have shown that oregano is a potent natural antibiotic because it is packed with health giving antioxidants and vitamins. Oregano tea will sooth coughs and colds and if left unsweetened makes an excellent mouthwash. Do not use Origanum majorana and Origanum vulgare medicinally during pregnancy.
Lemon-scented Verbena (Aloysia triphylla)
Lemon-scented Verbena will soothe bronchial and nasal congestion and is a tonic for the digestive system. You can take up to 3 cups per day if necessary.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Parsley has detoxifying and blood cleansing properties, and builds up the immune system. A tea can be made from the fresh leaves, or it can be chopped and eaten raw on salads etc. It can also be juiced with other vegetables and fruit.
Pineapple Sage (Salvia elegans)
Pineapple Sage is an excellent general tonic known for its healing properties; and its name means 'to save or heal'. The tea makes a good gargle and mouthwash for sore throats, tonsillitis, mouth ulcers and gum disease.
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Sage tea soothes coughs and colds and makes an excellent gargle for sore throats. Do not take sage medicinally if you are pregnant or if you suffer from epilepsy.
Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis)
Summer Savory is a general tonic that has aromatic and carminative properties; and the tea is taken to relieve sore throats.
To make an herbal infusion:
Generally herbal teas are made by pouring one cup of boiling water over a quarter cup of freshly chopped herbs. Allow too steep for about 5 minutes before straining and drinking. If the tea is not very palatable, honey and lemon juice can be added to taste.
When using herbal infusions (teas), always ensure that you are using the correct herb and do not drink the same infusion continuously. Take one cup per day for 10 days and then take a 5 day break. You can take up to 3 cups per day if necessary, but for no longer than 4 days at a time.
Caution:
Always consult with your physician before starting a home treatment programme, especially for serious ailments.
May
Strelitzia reginaeWhat to do in your garden in May
All Regions
May is a wonderful month in the garden and as the cold winter days approach, gardens in frosty regions revel in brilliant displays of berries and the autumn foliage of deciduous trees and shrubs. In the subtropical regions colour is provided by flaming poinsettias, strelitzia, bougainvillea and red-hot pokers; and in the winter rainfall regions the roses will be bursting into bloom. If your garden always looks dull at this time of the year, visit your local garden centre to select some late summer and autumn beauties to plant in your garden; these will be well established by next autumn and reward you with their bountiful displays.
Winter flowering annuals
Members can click on highlighted links to read more about the plants discussed
In all regions fast maturing winter flowering annuals like Bokbaai vygies (Dorotheanthus), African or Namaqualand daisy (Dimorphotheca), pot marigolds (Calendula), nemesias, cornflowers and Virginian stocks can still be sown directly into garden beds. Remember that as the weather cools down germination of seeds will be slower, and in cold regions it may be prudent to buy established seedlings of slower growing varieties of winter flowers to plant out, so visit your local garden centre to select your winter favourites.
Nip out the first flowers on pansy and Iceland poppy plants to encourage bushy, strong growth; and feed your sweetpeas every two weeks with organic 3:1:5. Tie taller growing sweetpeas to a framework or trellis for support and remove any unnecessary tendrils and side shoots to ensure strong and healthy plants that will provide you with an abundance of flowers in spring. In the warmer subtropical regions of the country, sweetpeas grow best if sown in autumn, when the weather is significantly cooler. (Read our February article)
In warmer parts of the country seeds can still be sown; try alyssum, snapdragon (antirrhinum), English daisy (Bellis perennis), cineraria, columbine (Aquilegia), candytuft (Iberis), Canterbury bells (Campanula), satin flower (Godetia), delphinium, dianthus, foxglove, gazania, hollyhock, Iceland poppy, baby snapdragon (Linaria), lobelia, lupin, nemesia, pansy, viola, phlox, primulas, schizanthus, Virginian stocks and wallflower.
Tulips mixed. Picture courtesy www.hadeco.co.zaBulbs
In most regions of the country the soil temperatures have cooled down considerably and you should have finished planting out most of your winter and spring flowering bulbs last month; except for tulips which are planted later in May when the soil temperatures have dropped considerably. Daffodils and hyacinths can still be planted out in May; as well as ranunculus and anemones, which can be planted out every 2 weeks to extend their flowering time.
Liliums will be in stores towards the end of May; plant them out as soon as you can as they do not have a long shelf life, and in cold regions protect the growing tips from frost. The brown stems of established clumps should be cut off at ground level, and overcrowded plants can be lifted and divided this month, but remember that they resent disturbance and can be left undivided for up to 5 years. Nerines are flowering now, so feed and water them regularly. Stop feeding your amaryllis bulbs and reduce the amount of water you give them, in order to induce winter dormancy.
Aloes and winter flowering red-hot pokers
Feed and mulch your aloes and winter flowering red-hot pokers (Kniphofia) for a beautiful show in May. Kniphofia ‘Royal Strain’ flowers in winter, producing wonderful dark red to bright orange flowers with yellow bases. Kniphofia ‘Yellow Cheer’ can also be planted out now; it produces its yellow flowers in summer and autumn. Aloes planted in flower borders amongst other plants often receive too much shade and water, making them susceptible to rust, and if the days are still sunny and warm, powdery mildew can develop. Always position them in an open sunny position and avoid overwatering.
Conifers
Continue treating your conifers against attack by the Italian aphid, and give them a light trim if necessary, ensuring that you don’t cut into the old wood.
Cuttings
Continue taking hardwood cuttings of evergreen and deciduous shrubs.
Burgundy Iceberg RoseRoses
In the winter rainfall and subtropical regions roses put on a beautiful show in autumn and should still be fed. If black spot is a problem, spray with an organic copper based fungicide and remove all diseased leaves. In very cold regions you should have stopped fertilising; and your roses will be having their last flush of blooms and start going dormant now, so reduce watering. Deadhead your roses when they stop blooming; and in severely cold regions wrap the stems of your standard roses with a frost protection material or wrap them in straw, bound with twine; also mulch the roots of your plants with straw or any organic material. Tag any roses growing in the wrong position in the garden and which you wish to transplant in June or July.
Watch out for fungal diseases like rust and black spot on your roses, pelargoniums and geraniums. Spray the entire plant; as well as under the leaves with a fungicide.
In certain regions bare root roses, fruit trees, shrubs and treesare available from May to July and can be safely planted out during these months.
Lawn
In the subtropical summer rainfall regions feed your lawn for the last time with a fertiliser which is high in nitrogen. Throughout the country, lawn growth will slow down, and as it does so you will be able to spot the weeds easier, making this an excellent time to weed by hand. In cold regions Kikuyu lawn will go dormant this month, but before putting away your lawn mower for winter give it a thorough clean and take it to a specialist lawnmower shop for a general overhaul and to have the blades sharpened. Ask them to sharpen your secateurs, long handled loppers and hedge clippers as well.
Hydrangea Renate Steinige. Picture courtesy Leonora Enking. Hydrangeas
To intensify the blue of your hydrangeas next season sprinkle the soil around them now with flowers of sulphur, using about 50 to 75g for each established bush. (Flowers of sulphur can be purchased from a chemist). Mulch them with acid compost, pine needles, bark chips, old tea bags or oak tree leaves. To increase the intensity of pink hydrangeas, sprinkle dolomitic lime around the root zone (this is available at nursery outlets.)
Camellias, Gardenias & Azaleas
Continue watering your camellias, gardenias and azaleas regularly; and mulch the roots with acid compost or leaf mould. Do not feed now or the lush new growth produced will overwhelm the swelling flower buds.
Indoor pot plants
Move indoor pot plants out of draughts and away from cold glass window panes; also many pot plants dislike being too close to heaters. Mist spray the leaves often and stand the pots on top of pebbles in a drip tray filled with water to help humidify the air.
Cymbidium and Phalenopsis orchids are spiking and starting to bloom so stake the flower spikes and feed and water regularly. If they are growing outdoors, bring them indoors when in bloom to enjoy their beauty. Dendrobium orchids need a cool, dry winter to induce flowers.
Broad BeansVegetables
Throughout the country, May is traditionally the month to sow broad beans. They germinate easily, and grow quickly into tall, upright bushes with stems reaching 1 to 2m tall, which will need some support. Do not sow too many seeds at one time, because one or two bushes will supply ample beans for the average family. For successive sowing, plant out every 3 weeks in autumn. Young broad beans can be cooked whole but mature pods need to be shelled before cooking. When they are in full bloom and the first pods begin to swell, nip out the growing tips to encourage fruit set.
In very cold regions of the Highveld it is the end of the winter vegetable planting season, because the first frost can arrive in April or May. Your winter veggies should already be in the soil and reasonably well established, before the bitter cold arrives in June and July. If your seedlings are still very small, make a note to start sowing seeds earlier next year. In June & July many crops like beetroot and spinach seem to stop growing, this is also true of many hardy herbs, but if you have a small plastic tunnel, or can protect your crops with a frost cover at night, you can extend your growing season. Mulching the roots of your vegetables will also keep the soil warmer. In these regions it is important to water regularly, but not to overwater.
Late summer into autumn is the most popular time to garden in humid subtropical regions, and especially if you wish to grow your own edibles. Most vegetable gardening information found online and in books is written for cool or temperate climates, leaving those living in warmer areas feeling left out, so if you want to know what to plant in humid subtropical gardens, click here to read my tips for growing veggies in subtropical regions. In KZN and Mpumalanga you can continue sowing traditional summer vegetables, as well as cool season crops like peas, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, spinach, onions and turnips.
CauliflowerContinue to feed and water your winter crops regularly and remember that green, leafy vegetables require a nitrogen rich fertiliser. In cold regions, lettuce does extremely well if planted during autumn and early winter; and in warmer regions it does well throughout winter; water your lettuce regularly to prevent it from going bitter. Root crops like carrots, turnips, parsnips and radish are best sown directly into the soil as they do not transplant well.
It is also time to sow peas, but in very cold regions delay sowing peas until late winter and early spring to avoid frost damage to the flowers. Peas can be sown every 3 to 4 weeks for a continual supply. Sweet peas and peas are good companion plants for each other - plant them together on a tepee for best results and a wonderful aesthetic appeal in the garden. Try some snow peas or sugar snap peas, for their tender and crisp pods.
For lovely white stems on leeks and celery blanch the stems as they grow by drawing the soil up against them. Store your lifted potatoes in a cool, dry and dark place for winter use. Check vegetables like broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi and kale for aphids and hose them off with a jet of water, or spray them with soapy water. If snails are a problem, treat them with organic snail bait like Ferramol.
Fruit
Plant out soft fruits like blueberries, raspberries and gooseberries in well-prepared holes, and at the same depth as they are in the bag.
Remove all runners from your strawberry plants so the mother plant will produce fruit in early summer.
Harvest the last of your late-fruiting apples and pears and feed the trees afterwards.
Feed your avocado and paw-paw trees with organic 3:1:5, mulch them with manure or compost, and water it in well.
Many citrus varieties ripen at this time and to keep them producing fruit, apply a moderate amount of nitrogen fertiliser on the surface of the soil around the trees, ensuring that you keep it well away from the trunk, and water it in thoroughly afterwards. It is also important to keep fruiting trees well watered; especially in the summer rainfall regions.
Ilex mitis berries Birds
In dry, cold winter regions the birds will appreciate some water and regular feeding in winter; but you could help them even more by planting trees, shrubs and various grasses in your garden which will help to feed them during the tough winter months. For example, autumn and winter flowering aloes are a rich source of food for many bird species and the female trees of the following plants bear heavy crops of berries: Cape holly (Ilex mitis) bears crops of small red, holly-like berries in autumn and winter; White Karee (Searsia pendulina) produces small green edible fruits that ripen to a reddish colour in autumn and are relished by many fruit eating birds, including ground birds like guinea fowl; Red currant (Searsia chirindensis) bears heavy bunches of shiny, dark reddish-brown berries in late summer and autumn. Dogwood (Rhamnus prinoides) produces edible berries for the birds almost continuously throughout the year.
Summer rainfall (Temperate or Highveld Regions)
Gardens in these regions are ablaze with fiery orange blooms of wild dagga (Leonitis), aloes, red hot pokers (Kniphofia) and Cape Honeysuckle. Not to mention the glorious displays of Barberton daisies, bush violet(Barleria), ribbon bush, spurflowers (Plectranthus), and nerines. Trees like Acers and liquidambers are showing their autumn glory and the oak-leaved hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifiolia), Viburnum opulus and heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) also come into their own at this time of the year, so if your garden is looking dreary, visit your favourite garden centre to select a few of these. Ensure that you water your winter and spring flowering shrubs deeply and regularly;especially your camellias, gardenias and azaleas.
If you want a truly beautiful winter, spring and early summer garden brimming with flowers and vegetables, and you haven't prepared yet, May is the last month to finish planting your winter bulbs, flowering seedlings, vegetables and winter herbs. In warmer regions you can still sow alyssum, pot marigolds (Calendula), candytuft, Canterbury bells (Campanula), delphinium, snapdragon (antirrhinum), African or Namaqualand daisy (Dimorphotheca), Bokbaai vygies , sweetpeas and Virginian stocks , but bear in mind that with lower night time tempertaures, germination will be slower. In cold regions it would be wiser to purchase trays of seedlings from your garden centre, although sweetpeas seed can still be sown in May. Try trays of pansy, viola, English daisy (Bellis perennis), calendula, cineraria, cornflower, delphinium, foxglove, gazania, Iceland poppy, larkspur, lobelia, lupin, petunia, primula, and schizanthus. If you have already planted your winter and spring flowering seedlings, water regularly and fertilise with organic 3:1:5.
In cold Highveld regions it is the end of the winter vegetable planting season, but in warmer regions you can still sow seeds of cool season crops like broad beans, peas, carrots, cauliflower, spinach, and turnips. Sow a last batch of onions and plant out seedlings of broccoli, spinach, cabbage, kale, winter lettuce and leeks. Try sowing some oriental vegetables like mizuna, pakchoi and tatsoi, they are cold hardy and very healthy. In very cold regions wait until June or July to sow peas, because the leaves are frost hardy but the flowers are tender. Planting them later will ensure that they flower at the right time. Divide overcrowded rhubarb and asparagus plants this month.
Make sure you have mulched and covered those tender shrubs; cut back on watering and only water in the morning to prevent frost damage. Store your hosepipe where it is protected from frost and bind water pipes with strips of hessian to protect them from freezing. Do not prune evergreen plants at this time of the year as all those branches and twigs will help protect your plants from the frost. Now is the best time to move cycads but do not overwater them once they have been transplanted, as this could cause them to rot. Stop feeding your lawn and set your blades on their highest level. Watch out for winter grass, Poa annua and pull it out immediately before it sets seed. Remember, evergreen lawns need watering throughout the year.
Winter rainfall regions (Mediterranean)
Gardens in this region are ablaze with the fiery orange flowers of wild dagga (Leonotis), falling stars (Crocosmia aurea) and bottlebrushes (Callistemon citrinus), African daisy (Dimorphotheca), nerines and spurflower (Plectranthus) also put on a glorious show now. Protea repens and Protea nerifolia have started blooming, as well as Halleria elliptica, and Cassia corymbosa.
April and May are the main planting times in the Western Cape, and when the dry season has been broken by the first winter rains, the soil is perfect to plant fynbos like restios, proteas, leucadendrons and ericas.
Finish planting out winter and spring flower seedlings this month; for sunny spots try alyssum, delphinium, dianthus, Iceland poppy, Shirley poppy, gazania, godetia, pansy, viola, calendula, ornamental cabbage, and stocks; while for shady spots try aquilegia, Canterbury bells (Campanula), cineraria, primula and foxgloves. Nemesias are really worth planting because they are indigenous to the Cape and thrive in this region, despite their delicate appearance. May is also traditionally the month to sow sweetpeas in the Cape.
May is a great time to trim shrubs in the garden, to allow some extra sunlight into the winter garden. Don’t forget to trim those alongside pathways, where brushing past the soaking wet bushes can be irritating in winter. Raise containers off the ground to prevent them from getting water logged; and remember to water areas of the garden under the eaves if the house and beneath south-facing walls and hedges, that do not receive rainfall. Check the acidity of your soil and if necessary apply dolomitic lime. Finish pruning your summer flowering shrubs and mulch your entire garden if you did not do so last month. Fertilise your winter and spring flowering plants regularly with organic 3:1:5. Put down Ferramol organic snail bait, it stops the snails from feeding and is safe to use around children and pets. Cover your compost heap to prevent it becoming too wet; and in areas which do receive frost, cover your tender plants this month.
Tidy up perennials like lavender, daisy bushes and geraniums; and when liliums have finished flowering, cut back the dead foliage and mulch the bulbs - don’t forget to mark where they are growing. Tulips are planted out at the end of May. Take hardwood cuttings of your plectranthus when they have finished flowering.
Autumn is a good time to plant lawn plugs and lay instant lawn. Remember that Kikuyu and Buffalo Lawn do not grow well in the shade and may rot in wet weather; plant Berea grass instead. Feed with Neutrog Bounce Back and bone meal, and apply a light top dressing. Allow your lawn to grow quite long before cutting and do not mow it too short; mow Buffalo lawn for the last time.
Sow your last crops of cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, parsnips and Swiss chard; and continue sowing and planting broad beans, broccoli, leeks, onions, parsley, peas, turnips, celery, radish, true spinach and beetroot. Various butter lettuce and spinach such as 'Viroflay' do very well in the cooler autumn and winter months. If you have a shallow pond in full sun why not try growing some waterblommetjies (Aponogeton distachyos) for those delicious stews. They are indigenous to the winter rainfall regions and are very pretty with their long lance-shaped green leaves and scented white flowers in spring and autumn. They should be planted out now, either directly into the mud at the bottom of shallow ponds or dams, or into pots which are then submerged.
Dry, semi-arid and continental regions
Make the most of the last warm sunny days to finish planting your winter and spring flowering seedlings, bulbs and vegetables before the cold winter winds move in; water and fertilise regularly. In gardens with poor sandy soil or clay, add as much compost as possible; and in heavy clay soil, raised beds work best. Now is the best time to move cycads, but do not overwater them once they have been transplanted as this could cause them to rot. Autumn is also a good time to plant out hardy trees and shrubs as these will be well established by summer.
Make sure you have mulched all planted areas thickly to protect against the cold. Do place mulch near plant stems. Cover those tender shrubs; try spraying them with Wilt-Pruf, which forms a protective coating on the leaves and protects against frost. Do not prune evergreens at this time of the year, all those branches and twigs will help protect your plants from the frost. Cut back on watering and only water in the morning to prevent frost damage; store your hosepipe where it is protected from frost. In brak water areas, allow the top layer of soil to dry out before watering; this will prevent the build-up of harmful salts in the soil. Remove all leaves from your rainwater tanks as they will spoil the water when they rot.
In gardens which haven't received their first frost yet the chrysanthemums and red hot pokers (Kniphofia) will be in full bloom, and dahlias may be having their last flush of blooms, so continue watering and feeding these until the flowers have faded. In warmer areas you can cut your chrysanthemums down to about 20cm but in very cold gardens do not prune them until spring or early summer; transplanting is only done in October. Unpruned plants may look untidy but the extra foliage will help protect them from frost damage.
Aloes planted in flower borders amongst other plants often receive too much shade and water, making them susceptible to rust, and if the days are still sunny and warm, powdery mildew can develop. Always position them in an open sunny position and avoid overwatering.
Do not cut your lawn now, as the extra length will protect the roots against the cold. Watch out for winter grass, Poa annua and pull it out immediately before it sets seed. Remember, evergreen lawns need watering throughout the year.
You can still sow fast maturing flowering seedlings like calendula, Bokbaai vygies,and Virginian stocks, but bear in mind that with lower night time temperatures, germination will be slower. For other winter and spring flowers, it would be wiser to purchase trays of seedlings from your garden centre. In very cold regions sweetpeas are usually only sown in May and June to ensure that they bloom later, once the worst of the frost is over. Don’t forget some pansies and violas, they do well in these regions in winter and can be in bloom until late October.
Make a final sowing of broad beans and onions, and in warmer regions, plant out the last of your well established winter lettuce, true spinach, shallots, leeks and kohlrabi. In very cold regions wait until June or July to sow peas, because the leaves are frost hardy but the flowers are tender. Planting them later will ensure that they flower at the right time.
Subtropical summer rainfall regions
As winter creeps in many winter flowering plants are pushing out flower spikes, especially the Coral trees (Erythrina) with their bright scarlet, nectar-laden flowers, which invites birds and monkeys to a feast. The aloes also start blooming now, so visit your garden centre and choose some for your garden - the drier the plants are the better they flower. The fiery orange spikes of wild dagga also adorn the landscape, and are also a favourite with bird. Gardeners in these regions look forward to a cool, reasonably dry period for the next four months; and May is prime gardening time in these regions, so get out there and have some fun; the garden centres are brimming with gorgeous shrubs, trees and seedlings to inspire you.
Roses are often at their best in May; so do not prune them now; continue to feed them with organic 3:1:5 and spray against fungal diseases. Feed all your flowering plants with organic 3:1:5; and because hot winds can dry out your beds quickly, mulch thickly and ensure that your plants are receiving enough water during these spells. Bougainvilleas will be at their most beautiful this month; feed them with organic 3:1:5 and water it in well; don’t feed them with a high nitrogen feeder as this will produce lots of leaves at the expense of the flowers. Cut down the spent flowering stems of Lobster claws (Heliconia) and divide those that are overgrown.Re-pot your pot plants now if necessary. Plant out Litchi and Citrus trees now.
Prune evergreen shrubs to improve their shape; and once deciduouis trees and shrubs drop their leaves, it is an excellent time to prune because the bare branches make easier pruning for shape. Do not remove more than one-third of the branches of a tree at one time. May is the best time to transplant trees and shrubs and autumn is the best time to move cycas and cycads, but do not overwater them once they have been transplanted as this could cause them to rot. May is also an ideal time to repot both indoor and outdoor pot plants. Remove the plants from the pots and wash off as much of the old soil as you can with a hosepipe. Prune the roots if necessary before repotting with fresh potting soil; dont forget to provide drainage. A newly potted plant will do better if pruned lightly and if large unwanted leaves are removed. Keep in a cool place until the plant is settled.
Continue watering your lawn but cut back to about once every 10 to 14 days. This allows more surface area for the blades to catch light for photosynthesis, thus keeping the grass alive; and also encourages deeper roots. Feed for the last time with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen, and do not mow too short.
Cymbidium and Phalenopsis orchids are spiking and starting to bloom so stake the flower spikes and feed and water regularly. If they are growing outdoors, bring them indoors when in bloom to enjoy their beauty. Dendrobium orchids need a cool, dry winter to induce flowers.
May is the correct time to plant out pansies, and violas in these regions, because if you plant too early, when the soil temperatures are still too hot, results can be disappointing. Plant corms of ranunculus and anemones this month as well as nasturtiums and marigolds for quick colour. Sow and plant alyssum, verbena, snapdragon, sweetpeas, stocks, delphiniums, dahlia, salvias, impatiens and New Guinea Impatiens, begonia, petunia, portulaca, aster, dianthus, foxgloves, cineraria, gazania, phlox, calendula, lobelia, primulas, marigold, nicotiana, zinnia and torenia.
Late summer into autumn is the most popular time to garden in humid subtropical regions, and especially if you wish to grow your own edibles. Most vegetable gardening information found online and in books is written for cool or temperate climates, leaving those living in warmer areas feeling left out, so if you want to know what to plant in humid subtropical gardens, click here to read my tips for growing veggies in subtropical regions.
May is a wonderful month to plant an herb and vegetable garden. Try herbs like oregano, Basil, lemon grass, parsley, thyme, rocket, fennel, dill and mint, to name a few. Plant out chives, garlic and asparagus crowns this month. Peas, broad beans and lettuce can be sown at the end of May as well as potatoes. Sow or plant green beans, baby marrows and other squash and pumpkin varieties as well as cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, Swiss chard, carrots, beetroot, turnips, onions and leeks.
April
What to do in your garden in April
All Regions
As summer slowly draws to a close we can feel a definite drop in the morning and evening temperatures, and as the trees change colour and the veld grass starts to dry up, we are reminded that winter is nigh. April is a wonderful month to garden and a good thing too, because it is a busy month for all regions.
In the cold regions of the country, depending on when your first frosts arrive, April is generally the last month to sow winter and spring flowering annuals and winter vegetables. In the warmer, sub-tropical regions, sowing is usually 4 to 6 weeks later than the cold regions, so get stuck into the garden and prepare your beds for planting in late April or May.
Easy to grow annuals
Large beds are expensive to plant with trays of seedlings, but easy to grow annuals like Sweetpeas and African/Namaqualand Daisies (Dimorphotheca) can be sown directly into well prepared garden beds. Look out for mixed or single colour Sweetpeas, and African daisies in orange, yellow and white.
Other annuals worth trying include: Baby Snapdragon (Linaria); Nemesia, Bokbaai Vygies (Dorotheanthus), Pot Marigold (Calendula), Johnny-jump-up Violas and Virginian stocks. There are also many beautiful mixtures available at your nursery, for full sun or semi-shade.
For smaller beds and containers it is often best to purchase established winter and spring flowering seedlings from your garden centre. Look out for the ever popular four P's; Pansies, Iceland poppies, Primulas and Petunias, or try something different this season by using Ornamental Kale; their colourful rose, red, mauve or white leaves are most striking if used in large groups or in pots.
Avoid transplanting bedding plants during the heat of the day and water regularly until the seedlings are established.
When your Sweetpeas are 15 cm tall, nip out the growing points to encourage lateral growth. Climbers will need supports about 2m tall and even the Knee-high and Bijou varieties will benefit from having low supports to clamber over.
Click here to find lists of plants to add colour to your garden through the seasons
Experience the joy of growing your own flowering annuals all year round and save yourself a ton of money as well. The large selection of flowering bedding plants available in South Africa enables us to have colour in our gardens throughout the year. Bedding plants allow you to incorporate a fresh "new look" every season by using different colour schemes and plant varieties. Combine this with the fast-maturing versatility of annuals and your garden can become a canvas and you the artist!
Click here to order your e-book "Growing Bedding Plants in South Africa" or to read more.
Winter and spring flowering bulbs
Plant out your winter and spring flowering bulbs towards the end of April when the soil temperatures have dropped significantly; but wait until May to plant tulips. Read the instructions at the back of your bulb packet and always plant bulbs at the correct depth; a general rule is to plant them at a depth of two to three times their diameter.
Try Persian Buttercup (Ranunculus), Wind Flower (Anemone), Bobbejaantjie (Babiana), Daffodil and Narcissus, Dutch Iris, Freesia, Garden Hyacinth (Hyacinthus), Grape Hyacinth (Muscari), Corn Lily (Ixia), Cape Cowslip (Lachenalia), Snowflakes (Leucojum), Chincherinchees (Ornithogalum), Harlequin Flower (Sparaxis), Garden Montbretia (Tritonia), Watsonia and Wild Garlic (Tulbaghia). Remember to soak Ranunculus and Anemone overnight in water before planting.
Click here to see a selection of winter and spring flowering bulbs
Amaryllis belladonnaIt's time to plant Belladonna lilies (Amaryllis Belladonna), and to lift and divide old established clumps that are overcrowded and have finished flowering. Do this only when necessary as they hate being disturbed, and will not flower for several seasons after transplanting. Plant them with the neck of the bulb just below soil level.
These sweetly scented South African lilies occur naturally in the South-western Cape. They are grown for their delicate blooms in shades of rose pink and pure white. The flowers appear in late summer, before the leaves. In the wild they grow in clumps between rocks, creating a stark contrast between the starkness of the rocks and the delicate blooms, which are borne on stems up to 1m tall. The Belladonna lily must be planted in autumn as it goes dormant in summer. In the summer rainfall regions the plants may remain evergreen if watered throughout the year.
Lift your Dahlia tubers this month, cutting the stems 10cm long. Label the varieties before lifting. Dry and clean the tubers before packing them in vermiculite or sawdust to prevent them from drying out; and store in a cool, dark and dry place. Click here to read more about autumn care for Dahlias.
Perennials
In warm regions perennials that have finished flowering and are overcrowded can be divided now; but in cold regions it is often best to cut down untidy clumps, mulch the roots, and wait until spring to divide. Click here to find my perennial articles.
Barly GoldRoses
Roses in the sub-tropical regions love the cooler weather and produce beautiful blooms in autumn; feed and spray them regularly to keep them blooming into winter. In the winter rainfall areas your roses will respond to the early rains by producing brilliant blooms, but it is imperative that you spray regularly to prevent black spot and other fungal diseases.
In the very cold regions of the country you should have stopped fertilising last month and can now reduce your watering to a single deep watering a week.
In the summer rainfall regions that have moderate frost, feed your plants for the last time this season and slowly reduce the frequency of watering as the weather cools down.
For colour in winter, try sowing low growing annuals that don’t have invasive roots like Namaqualand daisies on the edges of your rose beds or even around widely spaced individual bushes. Iceland poppies, pansies and violas, petunias, lobelia, alyssum, dianthus and baby snapdragons also work well with dormant roses.
Camellias, Gardenias and Azaleas
Sasanqua camellias will be flowering now and your camellia japonica and azalea buds will start to swell, so continue to water them regularly. Gardenias flower in summer but start producing buds now, so it is also essential to keep them well-watered during dry periods. Mulch the soil around all the above plants with acid compost and bark chips.
Draceana Lemon & LimeIndoor pot plants
Cut back on watering and feeding your indoor pot plants, except those that will flower in winter, and your ferns. Spray the leaves often with tepid water or place the pots on trays of damp pebbles, to increase humidity; and move pots away from cold glass windows, and cold winter draughts. Continue feeding your winter flowering Cymbidium orchids with a special orchid food.
Snails
Keep snails in check between your agapanthus, day lilies, irises, red-hot pokers and their other favourite ‘hide-out’s’ by treating those areas with an organic Snail Bait that is bait is eco-friendly and will not harm children or pets.
If aphids and other sucking insects are still a problem, spray them with Neem Oil Pesticide
Hardwood cuttings
Take hardwood cuttings of trees, shrubs and climbers now. Use No. 3 hormone rooting powder and plant them into well-drained soil or river sand. Place the pots in a protected place
Conifers
Treat your conifers every 4 to 5 weeks throughout autumn and winter for the Italian cypress aphid and water regularly.
Coprosma repens 'Marble Chips'Transplant evergreen shrubs and trees
Early autumn is the best time to transplant evergreen shrubs and trees that are planted in the wrong place in your garden.
Deciduous trees and shrubs are traditionally transplanted in mid-winter, when they have lost all their leaves and are totally dormant.
As the temperatures drop in autumn, the day length decreases and plant sap slows down; thus reducing the shock and trauma that can occur when moving evergreen trees and shrubs that are actively growing. The soil is still relatively warm in autumn, giving the plants a chance to settle in before the weather really turns cold. The roots will continue to grow throughout winter, and in spring the plant will be ready to start shooting new top growth.
To help reduce transplant shock, dose your evergreen shrubs and trees with Magnesium sulphate (Epson Salts) two weeks before transplanting. Dissolve 6 tablespoons into 10l of water and water it into moist soil. For large plants apply an extra dose or two. You can also spray the plant with a product called Wilt Pruf to reduce transplant shock.
For large shrubs it is necessary to prune them back a bit or the roots that remain will not be able to support the plant; in cold regions do not prune too harshly; trees can be pruned if required.
Prepare the new planting holes well in advance so that the soil can settle nicely. Add lots of compost to the soil and a generous sprinkling of bone meal.
Tie a piece of string onto the north side of large trees and shrubs so that you can plant them facing the same direction that they were growing in before. Water the plants to be transplanted thoroughly a day or two before transplanting. For large plants, dig a trench around the plant a day before lifting; this is important as you will sever some roots and this is already a shock to the plant. Water lightly and let the plant rest until the following day.
Finally dig the entire plant out and move it into its new position. Plant it firmly, stake if necessary and water thoroughly. Never plant deeper than the level at which your plant or tree was growing before. It is not necessary to do anything else until summer besides watering thoroughly once or twice a week as needed; do not over water, especially in cold regions.
Recycle your old newspapers
Do your bit for the environment by recycling your old newspapers. Use newspaper in your garden to smother the weeds and reduce the need to use poisonous herbicides. To smother weeds, it is best not to shred the paper but to put down several layers of paper and then cover it with a layer of compost.
Shredded newspaper works well to improve the texture of sandy soils; helping to prevent fertilisers from leaching out of the soil too quickly, as well as retaining water for longer; shred the newspaper and add it to the bottom of flower beds and planting holes. Almost any other paper can be used but don't use very glossy paper.
Cover your frost tender shrubs
In colder regions there is a decided nip in the air and it’s time to prepare to cover your frost tender shrubs. Very often plants die in winter because the soil freezes, damaging the roots. To keep the roots of your plants well protected you will need to mulch them (read last month’s article)
In areas that receive early frosts, change your watering programme to midmorning, so that plants will dry out and the soil will warm up before nightfall. If you have an automated watering system set it to water less frequently. As the weather cools down it is not necessary to water so often; over watering and over feeding at this time of the year will produce a flush of soft new leaves that will be the first to get frosted in winter.
Lawn care
Sow evergreen lawn seeds
Spring and autumn are the best times to sow evergreen lawn seeds like Shade Over and All Seasons Evergreen; it is also a good time to lay instant lawn. If your lawn grows poorly in certain areas of your garden, this is usually due to too much shade. Very few grasses grow well in shade and the best remedy for these areas is to sow shade tolerant grasses.
In the frost-free regions of the Western and Eastern Cape you could replant the area with shade-tolerant buffalo grass. In cold Highveld regions you can sow a special grass mixture like Shade Over, which tolerates about 60% shade.
In subtropical areas use LM or Kearsney grass. Alternatively, you could consider replacing the grass with low-growing groundcovers, paving or gravel.
To prepare the beds dig them over to a depth of about 30cm and add lots of compost and a dressing of 2:3:2. Rake the beds smooth and water gently. Once the soil has partially dried out, you can sow the seeds as recommended. Rake the bed smooth once again and water well. Ensure that the soil remains moist, but not soggy until all the seeds have germinated. Allow the grass to establish itself well before mowing it for the first time.
If you are planning a winter wedding or special function in your garden and live in a cold region; you can have a beautiful green lawn by over-sowing your Kikuyu grass with an evergreen mixture like All Seasons Evergreen. This is done by mowing the lawn short and raking it well with a rubber rake. Spread a thin layer of compost and a sprinkling of 2:3:2 over the area and then sow the seed on top of the existing lawn; covering the seed lightly with compost and watering well.
Evergreen lawns require regular watering all year round and cannot be mown shorter than 5cm, or they will die off. If you have a small garden, why not sow an evergreen lawn from one of the mixes available. They are hardy and grow well throughout the country, except very humid regions; as long as they can be watered regularly. Evergreen varieties grow in tufts and will not creep into your garden beds.
Established lawns
If you did not fertilise your established lawn last month and live in a cold region, you can still feed it early this month with a fertiliser that is high in potash like organic 3:1:5; this will strengthen and build up reserves in cool season grasses.
Garlic Vegetables
Late summer into autumn is the most popular time to garden in humid subtropical regions, and especially if you wish to grow your own edibles. Most vegetable gardening information found online and in books is written for cool or temperate climates, leaving those living in warmer areas feeling left out, so if you want to know what to plant in humid subtropical gardens, click here to read my tips for growing veggies in subtropical regions.
In cold regions, depending on when your first frosts arrive; early April is generally the last month to sow vegetables; in the winter rainfall regions you can continue to sow winter crops and in the warmer sub-tropical regions of the country you can continue to sow the full range of traditional summer vegetables; sowing of cool season crops is usually 4 to 6 weeks later than in the cooler regions.
Summer season vegetables increase in price during the winter, so make the most of the last of your summer vegetable harvest by freezing, drying, pickling or canning whatever you can.
Garlic can also be planted out this month and the last of the summer potatoes can be lifted after the first frosts.
Try sowing calendulas between your winter vegetables, not only are they very pretty in the vegetable garden but they also help keep insects at bay. If you do not plan to grow winter vegetables, sow a green manure crop that will add nitrogen and other minerals to the soil. Green manure crops include winter wheat, oats, mustard, vetch and red clover.
Herbs
Continue to harvest and dry or freeze summer herbs for winter use.
Chives and garlic chives can be lifted and divided this month. Replant them into well-prepared beds with lots of compost. Overgrown herbs like thyme and rosemary can be pruned lightly.
Click here to order or to read more about my new herb book here.
Fruit
In warm regions April is a good month to plant granadillas and to feed your existing plants.
Feed and water mangoes regularly as it is the start of their flowering season.
In temperate regions it is time to sow Cape gooseberries, and in other regions cut back the plants once they stop fruiting.
Trim out any water shoots and dead wood from your citrus trees and remove all thin or twiggy wood.
Keep watering your deciduous fruit trees if insufficient rain falls, and maintain good mulch.
Feed your mature almond trees with 2 kg of organic 2:3:2, starting 10cm away from the trunk and continuing out to the drip line. Remember; never throw fertiliser up against the stems and always water deeply after feeding.
In temperate regions the last of the apples and pears of the season can be harvested.
April is strawberry planting time
April is strawberry planting time, and also time to divide existing plants. Strawberries remain one of the most popular fruits and are easy to grow, producing large quantities of fruit from a very small area. One healthy plant will produce 500g or more of fruit per season, and a well-managed bed can remain productive for up to three years. Strawberries belong to the rose family and their white or pink flowers look like tiny single roses; the fruit smells good, is high in vitamin C and very healthy for you.
Many hybrid cultivars have been bred over the years, and the success of any one type may vary considerably from one area to another; so it is best to seek advice from your local nursery to select varieties that are best suited to your region. Buying from a reputable nurseryman will also ensure that your plants are virus-free. If space is limited strawberries can be planted into special pots or hanging baskets.
Strawberries are traditionally planted from early to late autumn, enabling them to establish themselves before winter and start producing crops the following spring and summer. They are very adaptable plants and very hardy to frost. They will also tolerate tropical conditions, where fruit production is usually during the cooler months. Strawberries will not tolerate poor drainage and grow well in raised beds. They thrive in neutral to slightly acid soil, with plenty of well-rotted organic material. If you want to increase the acidity of your soil, dig in acid compost. Add organic 2:3:2 and a generous dressing of bone-meal. The soil should be dug over thoroughly to a depth of about 25cm, and raked level. Wait a few days for the soil to settle before planting.
Strawberries require full sun and plant spacing will depend on the variety but is usually about 30cm apart, in rows 30cm apart. Be careful not to cover the crowns of the plants with soil. Mulch the soil with straw, bark chips or plastic sheeting to help retain moisture and keep the fruit cleaner. If you are planting in plastic sheeting, first prepare the beds, lay the plastic and then cut holes into the sheeting and plant.
During the growing season, feed your plants regularly with an organic 3:1:5 (use a liquid fertiliser if you are growing in sheeting). Remove all runners to encourage better fruiting. Water your plants regularly and deeply about 2 to 3 times per week until the fruit starts to ripen, then reduce watering, but never allow the plants to totally dry out. Try to water in the mornings and allow the fruit to ripen on the plants for the best flavour.
Remember that birds also love strawberries so it may become necessary to cover the beds with a bird netting to protect them. Snails and slugs may also become a problem if not controlled. After a few years, when the quantity and quality of the berries become unsatisfactory, dig them up and discard the plants; replanting with fresh stock from your nursery.
Winter rainfall regions (Mediterranean)
April and May are main planting times in the Western Cape, and there is a lot to do in your garden this month, so enjoy the cooler weather and ‘get going’.
Autumn is the best time to plant fynbos as soon as the soil cools down and just before the winter rains begin.
Sow and plant; Cape-forget-me-not (Anchusa); renoster arctotis (Arctotis); English daisy (Bellis), Bokbaai vygies, pot marigold (Calendula); cineraria, delphinium, dianthus, foxgloves, felicia, godetia, gazania, larkspur, linaria, lobelia, lupin, nemesia, nasturtiums, African daisies, nigella, pansy and viola, Iceland poppy, penstemon, phlox, primula, primroses, ranunculus, salvia, scabiosa, schizanthus, snapdragons, stocks, Shirley poppy, ursinia, and Virginian stocks. Be careful not to plant pansies in full sun now as they may be scorched if there is a really hot day.
Late summer and autumn is the best time to sow cabbage and oriental cabbages, mustard, kale, kohlrabi, and turnips. Other crops like celery, beetroot, broad beans, peas, Swiss chard, spinach, lettuce, leeks, onions and spring onions, carrots, radish, parsnips and parsley can also be sown.
Mulch the soil to protect it from the heavy rains and feed your lawn with a high potassium fertilizer to toughen it up before winter. Ensure that your gutters and drains are clear and prune away dangerous overhanging tree branches from walkways etc.
Make sure that all your standards are secure and repair areas that experienced drainage problems last winter.
You can prune your summer flowering shrubs now, removing all straggly growth and dead wood.
The various types of hydrangeas are pruned at different times, and many gardeners prune their mopheads lightly at the end of April. Cick on the highlighted text to read more about pruning hydrangeas.
Feed your fuchsias for the last time with an organic fertiliser for flowering plants, and prune them lightly after they have flowered, this will give them a head start in spring.
Many gardeners in this region prefer to wait until spring to divide their perennials, but if you have well drained soil and need to do so now, you can. Replant only young, healthy growth and dig lots of compost into the beds with a sprinkling of organic 2:3:2. Overcrowded perennials like agapanthus, daylilies, shasta and michaelmas daisies, penstemon and ajuga can be lifted and divided this month.
Subtropical summer rainfall regions
Autumn is the best time to plant a flower and vegetable garden in these regions, so enjoy the cooler weather and get stuck into your garden now.
In the warmer, sub-tropical regions of the country you can continue to sow the full range of traditional summer vegetables; sowing of cool season crops is usually 4 to 6 weeks later than in the cooler regions. Click here to read my tips for growing veggies in subtropical regions.
If you have not sown long cropping vegetables like tomatoes, pumpkin and squash, baby marrows, sweet peppers and chillies, cucumbers, eggplants, parsley and Swiss chard yet, do so without delay. You can also sow cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and oriental cabbages, broad beans, onions and spring onions, leeks, parsnips, peas, radish, turnips, carrots, beetroot, green beans, lettuce. In these regions it is also time to sow Cape gooseberries
Plant bulbs like anemones, ranuncula and freesias and sow or plant annuals like African daisies, Cape-forget-me-not (Anchusa); renoster arctotis (Arctotis); asters, amaranthus, begonias, Bokbaai vygies, pot marigold (Calendula), cornflowers, cineraria, dianthus, dahlia, delphinium, godetia, larkspur, linaria , marigold, nemesia, nicotiana, primula, pansy and viola, sweet peas, Iceland poppy, Shirley poppies, ornamental cabbage, candytuft, petunia, phlox, rudbeckia, salvia, stocks, snapdragons, torenia, zinnia and Virginian stocks.
Although plants never go totally dormant in the subtropical regions, as the days shorten and cool down, plant growth slows down making April a good month to plant trees and shrubs; giving them plenty of time to settle in and establish roots, before the summer rains. It is also a good time to prune deciduous trees once their leaves have dropped because it is easier to see their shape.
You can also prune your summer flowering shrubs if you have not done so already; but do not prune your purple wreath (Petrea) or yesterday today and tomorrow, as this could affect their flowering.
Mow your lawn less often, about every 10 days, and water regularly. Feed every six weeks with a balanced organic fertiliser that is high in nitrogen.
Tidy up your perennial plants; and check your hibiscus for woodborer.
Plant out new granadillas and feed your existing plants.
Take cuttings of crotons, fuchsias and geraniums this month and root them in equal parts acid compost and river sand.
Dry, semi-arid and continental regions
April is a busy month for gardeners in this region and in very hot regions winter and spring are the best times to grow a beautiful flower garden, so prepare for spring now!
As soon as the weather cools down start sowing or planting out your winter flower and vegetables. Try alyssum, Californian poppy, Iceland poppy, candytuft, gaillardia, baby snapdragon, primula, snapdragons, and candytuft. Be careful that pansies and violas planted in full sun are not scorched if you have a really hot autumn day. Sow African daisies, Bokbaai vygies, pot marigold (Calendula), cornflowers, stocks and Virginian stocks directly into well-prepared garden beds. In brak (salty water) gardens sow hollyhocks as they are perfect for these areas.
Sweet peas can be sown this month, but in regions that have severe frost, prepare your trenches this month, for planting in May. Sweetpeas like lots of food and rich, well-drained soil. Add plenty of compost, some old kraal manure and a sprinkling of agricultural lime and bone meal to the soil mixture.In very cold regions wait until June or July to sow peas, because the leaves are frost hardy but the flowers are tender; planting them later will ensure that they flower at the right time.
Late summer and autumn is the best time to sow cabbage and oriental cabbages, mustard, kale, and kohlrabi. Depending on when your first frosts arrive, other crops like beetroot, broad beans, carrots, Swiss chard, spinach, leeks, late season onions and spring onions, lettuce, carrots, radish, turnips and parsnips can also be sown or planted.
Make sure you have completed your March chores like feeding your garden for the last time with 3:1:5 and mulching your plants, especially in very cold regions.
Don’t mow your lawn as often and set the blades higher; this longer, thicker growth will provide protection against the coming cold.
Cover your tender plants at the first sign of frost. Always water in the morning in winter as this gives the soil time to drain and warm up during the day.
Remember when planting trees and shrubs that clay soils need less watering than normal soil. If your leaves turn yellow it doesn’t necessarily mean that your plants are lacking water or food. Yellow leaves are often caused by over watering.
Tidy up your perennial plants, but in very cold regions wait until spring to lift and divide them.
Summer rainfall (Temperate or Highveld Regions)
As soon as the weather cools down you can start planting out your winter and spring flowering seedlings. Sow seeds of Bokbaai vygies, African daisies (Namaqualand daisies), calendula, cornflowers, Virginian stocks and nemesia directly into well-prepared beds this month.
Sweet peas can be sown this month, but in regions that have severe frost, prepare your trenches this month, for planting in May. Be careful that pansies and violasplanted in full sun are not scorched if you have a really hot autumn day. If you don’t experience severe frost, grow petunias in the winter months, as they don’t enjoy excessive rain in the summer months.
There are so many seedlings to choose from, including these ‘all time’ favourites; aquilegia, alyssum, English daisy (Bellis perennis), candytuft, cineraria, delphinium, dianthus, Cape-forget-me-not (Anchusa), foxgloves, gazania, Iceland poppy, baby snapdragon (Linaria), lobelia, lupin, primula, primroses, stocks, snapdragons and ursinia.
In cold regions, depending on when your first frosts arrive; April is a great time to get in crops of vegetables like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, broad beans, beetroot, cabbage and oriental cabbages, kale, kohlrabi, celery, cauliflower, leeks, carrots, lettuce, mustard, onions and spring onions, radish, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips, parsnips and parsley.
In very cold regions wait until June or July to sow peas, because the leaves are frost hardy but the flowers are tender. Planting them later will ensure that they flower at the right time
If you started sowing early and have young vegetable seedlings in trays, feed them regularly with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen to encourage rapid growth before the weather cools down. Plant out these vegetables while the soil still has some warmth in it and you are sure to have good strong plants by the time the soil cools.
Ensure that you have completed your March chores like feeding your garden for the last time with 3:1:5 and mulching your plants, especially in very cold regions.
Don’t mow your lawn as often and set the blades higher. This longer, thicker growth will provide protection against the coming cold.
Cover your tender plants at the first sign of frost.
Always water in the morning in winter as this gives the soil time to drain and warm up during the day.
April is a good month to plant hardy trees, shrubs and roses, as there are still enough warm days ahead to establish them before the cold sets in. These plants will be well established by next summer and, ready to grow.
Divide your hardy perennial plants, re-planting only young, healthy growth. Dig lots of compost into the beds and sprinkle with organic 2:3:2. In very cold regions, tidy up your perennials but wait until spring to lift and divide them.
Bulbs winter/spring
Babiana hybridWinter and spring flowering bulbs are usually available from March and you don’t want to miss out on your favourites, so buy them early! March can still be extremely hot and the soil temperatures are still far too high to plant out bulbs; so store them in a cool, dark and dry place until the temperatures drop significantly in April, or even May.
Also, prepare the beds for planting without delay. Bulbs require very well drained soil, so dig them over about 30cm deep; working in lots of compost. Sprinkle with an organic general purpose fertiliser like 2:3:2 (one handful per square metre) and a generous dressing of bone meal or hoof and horn meal. If you have clay or badly drained soil, add generous amounts of washed river sand to the soil, or consider planting in pots or raised beds. Water the beds lightly and allow them to lie fallow until planting time.
If you are mixing bulbs together with other garden plants and annuals, a bit of planning pays off in the long run; and besides correct preparation of the beds, the next most important consideration is to determine how much sun your beds will receive in winter and spring. This will greatly influence your plant selection. Also, the ultimate flowering height of the bulb is most important; especially if you are planting on top of your bulbs.
TIP: Place a white pebble on the ground on top of each planted bulb. This will prevent you from damaging the bulbs when over-planting.
Small winter and spring flowering annuals like pansy, viola, lobelia and alyssum work well with most bulbs; providing continuous colour right through winter and into spring, when the bulbs pushing through the planted seedlings make a glorious display. If the over-planting of bulbs is well planned the seedlings will not swamp the bulbs, or grow too tall. Over-planting also acts as living mulch around the roots of your bulbs, keeping them cool and conserving moisture.
Consider including some of our gorgeous indigenous bulbs like Babiana, Freesias, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Ixias, Gladioli, Ornithogalum and Lachenalias; and remember to leave space for planting out Daffodils, Narcissus and Hyacinths which only arrive in the stores towards the end of March. Tulips are usually available from late April; and Liliums from May.
I hope the following selection will help you plan an inspiring winter and spring garden.
Wind Flower (Anemone)
Cape Cowslip (Lachenalia) 
Dutch Iris
Daffodils and Narcissus
Corn Lily (Ixia) 
Chincherinchee (Ornithogalum) 
Garden Montbretia (Crocosmia)
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari)
Garden Hyacinth (
Freesia
Spring Starflower (Ipheion) 
Florist Allium (Allium)Belladonna Lily (Amaryllis belladonna)+-1m tall, sun to part shade, semi-hardy
Click here to read more
Persian Buttercup (Ranunculus)
Brodiaea (Brodiaea)
Alpine Violet (Cyclamen)
Insert here
Insert here
Stinging Nettle, Common Nettle, Gewone Brandnetel, Umbabazane - Urtica dioica
Stinging Nettle Image by ImageParty from PixabayCondensed Version:
The benefits of stinging nettle are too many to count and this ancient herb has been forgotten for too long, but is now making a huge comeback because of its phenomenal health benefits. It has been used medicinally since the earliest times; and the entire plant is of value including the leaves, roots, stems and flowers.
Nettles are divided into at least five subspecies, each of which is slightly different; but they are all herbaceous perennials, which have an upright, sprawling habit and grow about 1 to 2m tall. The soft, serrated leaves are opposite each other in pairs on the stem. The leaves and the rest of the plant are coated in stinging and non-stinging hairs.
The plant spreads by underground roots which are noticeably yellow. The tiny greenish-white flowers, each with four petals, are densely clustered on elongated inflorescences towards the top of the stem. The plant will go dormant in winter and is one of the first greens to emerge in the spring. The thought of eating nettles might alarm you, but drying, juicing, cooking or making a tea with the fresh leaves takes all the fight out of it and what is left is quite an amazing super food. The young leaves can be cooked like spinach and taste great with garlic and butter. The dried herb can be stored in jars and added to soups and stews throughout the year.
Stinging nettles are used in organic farming as a fertiliser and as a companion plant for the vegetable garden because of their ability to regulate the iron content in the soil; and because iron is a prerequisite for the formation of chlorophyll needed by all plants; nettles will strengthen plants growing in close proximity to them. They are also great to add to the compost pile and will hasten breakdown.
Stinging nettle grows like a weed in moist, shady areas and will not be confined to a particular spot; so it is recommended that it be confined in the garden in raised beds or grown in pots to prevent unwanted expansion. The plant can be harvested regularly during the growing season and is best when it is less than knee high; but please remember to wear thick gloves. Cut the branches down to about half their height so that the plant will quickly recover and you can get another cutting.
Stinging Nettle Image by No longer here from PixabayFull Version:
Description, History & Interesting Facts:
The benefits of stinging nettle are too many to count and this ancient herb has been forgotten for too long, but is now making a huge comeback because of its phenomenal health benefits.
It has been used medicinally since the earliest times; and the entire plant is of value including the leaves, roots, stems and flowers. Traces of nettles were found at the remains of Neolithic stilt dwellings in Switzerland dating back to the third millennium B.C. The term “nettle” is also very old, originating from the Old German term “nezzila”, which in turn is related to the word “net” and refers to an early method of fibre production for the manufacture of untreated cotton. A plant related to the nettle - the ramie - is still an important fibrous plant.
Medieval monks would flagellate themselves with nettle for penance; and legend has it that Roman soldiers brought stinging nettles to Britain as they used the plants to beat themselves with to encourage surface blood circulation, in an effort to keep warm in England’s cold and damp climate. During World War II, nettles were used as green camouflage paint. If you are into primitive skills, nettles stems have a lot of fibre and make fine cordage, if harvested when the plant stems are old and tough, but not dried or withered.
Urtica dioica is widespread through Europe and North America, and also occurs in North Africa and parts of Asia. There are also naturalised populations in many colder, moist climates of the world. Netle is well known for its toothed, hairy leaves and for its sting. The painful sensation of nettle stings occurs when toxins from specialised hairs are delivered into the skin. Each stinging hair has a bulbous tip which breaks off to leave a sharp, needle-like tube that pierces the skin and injects histamine and acetylcholine, causing itching and burning that may last up to 12 hours.
Nettles are divided into at least five subspecies, each of which is slightly different; but they are all herbaceous perennials, which have an upright, sprawling habit and grow about 1 to 2m tall. The soft, serrated leaves are opposite each other in pairs on the stem. The leaves and the rest of the plant are coated in stinging and non-stinging hairs.
The plant spreads by underground roots which are noticeably yellow. The tiny greenish-white flowers, each with four petals, are densely clustered on elongated inflorescences towards the top of the stem. The plant will normally go dormant in winter and is one of the first greens to emerge in the spring.
Uses:
Today the plants are harvested commercially for extraction of the chlorophyll, which is used as a green colouring agent in medicines and food.
Dried, they are also a highly useful fodder with a protein content equivalent to lucerne/clover. Despite its stalky nature it is well digested by stock animals; even pigs, fowl and rabbits.
When fed to lactating animals it encourages more milk production; and when added to chicken feed helps chickens produce more eggs.
Herbal Tea. Image by Mareefe from PixabayHealth Benefits:
The thought of eating nettles might alarm you, but drying, juicing, cooking or making a tea with the fresh leaves takes all the fight out of it and what is left is quite an amazing super food. The young leaves can be cooked like spinach and taste great with garlic and butter. The dried herb can be stored in jars and added to soups and stews throughout the year.
The stinging nettle plant has many traditional uses, mainly in the anti-inflammatory, cardiovascular and urogenital departments. Because it is a natural diuretic and will cleanse the system, it is still considered a wonderful anti-inflammatory plant, with studies showing its effectiveness in treating rheumatic pain, arthritis and gout. It also builds energy, strengthens the adrenals, and is said to restore youthful flexibility to blood vessels. The use of nettle root extract in benign prostate hyperplasia is also being studied intensely and offers amazing promise for older men. Studies have also confirmed its traditional use for allergies. Nettles are also reputed to help prevent hair loss; and can be used like an Analgesic for pain. Nettles are rich in calcium, and contain generous amounts of bone-building magnesium, potassium, silicon, boron, and zinc. They are also high in vitamin C and an excellent source of vitamins A, D, E, and K.
An infusion (tea)
For internal use, an infusion (tea) is made from the dried or fresh leaves to treat anaemia, kidney stones, haemorrhage (especially of the uterus), heavy menstrual bleeding, haemorrhoids, arthritis, gout, rheumatism, skin complaints and especially eczema. Both the leaves and roots are used to treat allergies; and for prostate enlargement the roots are used.
Externally nettle tea is used to treat gout and arthritic pain, neuralgia, nosebleeds, haemorrhoids, scalp and hair problems, as well as burns and insect bites.
Make a habit of purifying your blood at least twice a year by drinking this tea every day for one month. You will feel revived with tons of energy and able to work like never before.
To make an infusion (tea)
Use 1 teaspoon (5grams) of dried or fresh finely chopped fresh leaves, or roots, to 1 cup of boiling water.
Allow to steep well and take the tea 3 times per day.
If you wish to make up more, use one cup of the herb in 1 litre of boiling water.
To make a tincture
To make a tincture from the roots, lift and divide the roots in spring or autumn and clean before chopping and placing in a bottle and covering with Vodka; leave to infuse in a warm place for 14 days, agitating occasionally, strain and re-bottle.
More nettle products are showing up on the shelves in stores. Nettle root, nettle leaf and whole herb (leaf, stem and root) products in tablets, capsules, and tinctures are now widely available at most health food stores at very reasonable prices.
Consumers just need to remember that the root is much better for benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH) and hair loss, while the leaf is better for inflammation (including prostatitis), allergies, and as a natural diuretic for people with hypertension.
Image by Hans Jürgen Münzer from PixabayPets:
Not only humans can make use of the helpful effects of the stinging nettle; it is also used to treat birds, dogs and cats.
For dogs and cats the dried herb can be sprinkled onto their food (dandelion is often mixed with the nettle) to help with a variety of common problems including eczema, dermatitis, skin irritation and arthritis; as well as to maintain good health.
For cats that exhibit seasonal allergies to pollen, stinging nettle extract is effective; add some extract to your cat's canned food or water to help relieve congestion and sneezing.
You can also serve the young tips of the stinging nettle to any kind of pet bird; it is often used as a cleansing tea for racing pigeons and is especially good for treating birds that suffer from kidney problems.
Pouring or washing the plant with some hot water will neutralise the stings.
These fresh sprouts are extremely rich in vitamins and minerals and some bird couples use them for feeding their chicks. Just cut the leaves into small pieces and mix them into the hatching food while your budgies have to care for their brood.
Click here to read my article "Herbs that are good for dogs and cats"
Caution:
Remember to consult with your veterinarian before treating a sick animal.
In the Kitchen:
Stinging nettle has a flavour similar to spinach and cucumber when cooked. The young leaves can be cooked like spinach and taste great with garlic and butter.
In the Garden & Companion Planting:
This plant is a great attractor for butterflies and the caterpillars of several Lepidoptera species are dependent upon it for food. Stinging nettles are used in organic farming as a fertiliser and as a companion plant for the vegetable garden because of their ability to regulate the iron content in the soil; and because iron is a prerequisite for the formation of chlorophyll needed by all plants; nettles will strengthen plants growing in close proximity to them. They are also great to add to the compost pile and will hasten breakdown.
Cultivation & Harvesting:
Stinging nettle grows like a weed in moist, semi-shady areas and will not be confined to a particular spot; so it is recommended that it be confined in the garden in raised beds or grown in pots to prevent unwanted expansion. It thrives if watered moderately and enjoys deep fertile soil, but will adapt to most garden soils. It is also very hardy and because it will go dormant in winter, can survive freezing conditions. The plant can be harvested regularly during the growing season and is best when it is less than knee high; but please remember to wear thick gloves when harvesting. Cut the branches down to about half their height so that the plant will quickly recover and you can get another cutting.
Propagation:
Seeds are not easy to obtain, but nettles grow well if the rootstock is divided when the plant is dormant in winter.
Problems, Pests & Diseases:
Nettles have been around for so long that nothing much can kill them off; and even insects know that nettle is good for them, with at least 30 species of insects known to feed on it; and the caterpillars of several Lepidoptera species are dependent upon it for food.
Caution:
There are no known contra indications and side effects of using nettles; but as with all herbal treatments, more is not better, and continuous, uninterrupted use is not recommended.
The information contained within this website is for educational purposes only, recording the traditional uses of specific plants as recorded through history.
Because stinging nettles can produce side effects and interact with other drugs and natural treatments, consult your healthcare practitioner before using it.
Toxicity:
Nettle stings are irritating and poisonous but are very rarely serious.
March
'Hot Cocoa' Picture courtesy MalanseunsWhat to do in your garden in March
All Regions
March is a wonderful month in the garden and as the days grow shorter, our thoughts turn to our winter and spring gardens. Gardening in the cooler weather is a pleasure and if you do all your tidying, planting and sowing now; your seedlings will have a chance to establish themselves before the cold weather arrives, ensuring a beautiful winter show. All you will then need to do is to water and maintain the garden; giving you ample time to snuggle up and enjoy winter.
Click on highlighted text to read more on the plants mentioned
Rose Care
The last roses of summer are often the most perfect ones; and as the daytime temperatures drop, your roses will take on a new intensity of colour and unfading beauty seldom seen in hot weather. Their petals unfurl perfectly and they last much longer too. If the temperatures play along, you can have roses well into April and May.
Shorter days are a signal to roses to prepare for winter dormancy and the plants start converting sugar to starches and storing it in their stems for their spring growth, so it is important to feed them regularly; especially in the summer rainfall regions. In very cold regions, you should stop feeding by mid-March as this will harden them off against the cold. Lower daytime temperatures and reduced evaporation also mean that you can reduce the amount you water, while still ensuring good moisture in the soil.
We experience a lot more dew on the Highveld in March; in the Cape you may experience a wet autumn; and in sub-tropical regions it is still very warm; so it is imperative to keep on spraying against fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew in these regions. Also, watch out for red spider in hot, dry regions.
In hot, humid regions, you can trim your roses lightly if necessary. Do not cut them short as they can produce their most beautiful blooms in autumn.
Late summer and autumn are ideal times to plant new roses, when the soil is still warm enough for the plant to produce hair roots. Roses planted at this time will be ready to grow to their full potential in spring, and produce their first flush of blooms of the season.
Roses like excellent air circulation, but not a draughty windy site; and require at least 5 to 6 hours of sunlight a day. Do not plant them near to walls where the soil tends to be dry, or close to other large shrubs, whose roots will compete with the rose for moisture and food.
Roses are quite fussy about their soil. They will do best in light clay or loamy soil, but sandy soil should be enriched with lots of well-rotted manure or compost. Heavy clay can be loosened with basalt and acidic soil is best mixed with lime each year.
Prepare your planting holes very well, making them 1 1/2 times as wide as they are deep, +-60cm square and +-45cm deep. Remove the topsoil and put it one side before digging the rest of the hole. Mix the excavated soil with special rose compost, or well-rotted manure or compost, and a handful of bone meal.
Before planting roses into the garden, ensure that the soil in the planting bag is well watered and allowed to drain, so that it is neither too dry, nor too soggy. Do not plant roses deeper than they are already growing in the nursery bag, the bud union must be above ground level. Firm the soil down well before watering the plants thoroughly. Keep the new plants moist but not soggy. In very cold regions, mulch the roots after planting to protect them from freezing. Do not prune roses after you have planted them in autumn.
Prepare your garden beds for planting out winter vegetables, flower seedlings and bulbs
Dig them over about 30cm deep and working in lots of compost, sprinkle with a general purpose fertiliser like 2:3:2 (one handful per square metre) and a generous dressing of bone meal or hoof and horn meal.
Babiana' Lonely Hill' Hybrid. Winter and spring flowering bulbs arrive in stores this month
Look out for daffodils, tulips and hyacinths, which arrive in stores this month. Buy them early and store them in a dry, dark and cool place until planting time next month; once the soil temperatures have cooled down.
Consider including some of our gorgeous indigenous bulbs like Babiana, Freesia, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Ixias, Ornithogalum (Chincherinchee) and Lachenalias. Once your summer flowering bulbs have died down you can lift and store them. If you plan on leaving them in the soil, mark the position where they are planted to avoid damage while they are dormant.
It’s time to plant or sow seeds for your winter and spring flower garden.
In subtropical and humid regions, late summer, autumn and winter are the best times to plant a flower garden
In subtropical and humid regions, late summer, autumn and winter are the best times to plant a flower garden. In these regions many winter annuals, as well as summer flowering annuals are sown during these cooler months. Because sowing times vary from region to region, it’s always better to check with your local garden centre which varieties do best in your region before sowing or planting.
Cold winter regions
In very cold winter regions which experience early frosts, gardeners generally start sowing seeds of slower maturing winter and spring flowering annuals in January and February; keeping them in a cool, shaded area. In these regions, continue to feed the seedlings you sowed; such as pansy, viola, cineraria, foxglove, aquilegia, Iceland poppy, delphinium, larkspur and primula; and transplant them into larger 6-pack seedling trays or small pots to grow-on. Only plant them out into the garden once the soil temperatures have cooled down significantly in autumn.
In other cold regions, many annuals can be sown into seedling trays now, but do not sow winter seeds directly into garden beds until the daytime temperatures have dropped significantly. Some annuals like alyssum, snapdragons, dianthus and petunias can be grown almost throughout the year in South Africa and can be sown now. However, remember that not all so called “winter annuals” are fully hardy to frost, and because sowing times vary from region to region, it is always better to check with your local garden centre which plants do best in your region before sowing or planting.
If the sweetpeas you sowed last month are growing vigorously cut off some of their tendrils; continuing to do this until they start flowering will encourage larger blooms. If you have not sown seeds yet you can still do so; soak the seeds in warm water overnight before planting. If some seeds don't swell, pierce them with a sharp clean pin. Plant 15 to 20cm apart into the trenches or beds you prepared last month. (Read my February article)
Sweetpeas can take frost but the flowers will be ruined in severe frost regions, so in these regions gardeners often delay planting seeds until May or June, so that they start blooming later. In very cold regions, where the weather remains cool during spring and early summer, late flowering varieties can be sown in spring, to flower early summer before it gets too hot. Birds love eating the fresh young shoots of sweet peas and other seedlings, so protect them with plastic netting or chicken mesh if necessary.
Do not plant the same seedlings into the same beds year after year
This can cause soil borne fungal diseases and will deplete the soil of nutrients. This is especially relevant for seedlings like petunia, pansy and viola.
Click here to find my list of winter, spring and early summer flowering annuals.
Vegetables
Sub-tropical Regions
In sub-tropical regions many summer vegetables as well as winter veggies are grown during the cooler winter months, so continue to sow seeds of vegetables and herbs that you can plant out into the garden once the weather cools down, and prepare your beds for planting now.
Cold, Frosty Regions
On the Highveld you need to sow your winter vegetables this month so that the plants can mature before it gets really freezing cold in June and July. You should try to get at least 6 to 8 weeks of good growth on your winter veggies before the major frosts come, anything less and your plants will struggle over the really cold period.
In very cold winter regions which experience early frosts, gardeners generally start sowing seeds of slower maturing winter vegetables into seedling trays as early as January and February, and plant them out as soon as the soil temperatures drop sufficiently. If you live these regions and have not sown slow maturing veggies yet, it will be worth your while to purchase trays of established seedlings from your garden centre to plant out this month.
In cold regions June and July are not good months to sow seeds.
Over the years I have written many articles on growing vegetables at home, and members may also find the following articles helpful.
"Easy to grow winter vegetables"
"When to sow winter vegetables"
"Growing vegetables in raised beds"
"Growing vegetables & herbs in containers"
"Square Foot Vegetable Gardening"
Start hardening off your shrubs and trees
In cold winter regions it is important to start hardening off your shrubs and trees in late summer and autumn for the coming cold. This is achieved by slowly starting to water less, and by cutting back on fertilising. As the weather cools down your garden will need less water anyway, so adjust your automatic watering system accordingly, but remember to continue watering by hand those seedlings, potted plants and shrubs that still require regular watering.
Keep the roots of your plants well protected from frost
To keep the roots of your plants well protected from the frost you will need to mulch them. Collect old newspapers and all your dry autumn leaves and grass cuttings. Place a thick layer of shredded newspaper down on the soil around your plants, cover with a thick layer of dry leaves and top with a generous layer of compost or kraal manure; the soil will prevent the leaves from blowing around.
Do not pile mulch right up against the stems of your plants.
This thick mulch will create a warm blanket for the roots of your plants, especially those frost tender ones. The mulch will also stop weed growth and by summer it would have decomposed into a rich layer of nourishing compost.
For tender trees, you can also bind hessian or special frost cover fabric around the stems to protect them. Cut the cloth into strips and wrap it around like a bandage, right up to the first branches.
CosmosCollect summer seeds
Collecting summer seeds and saving them for next season is quick, easy and fun. This will also save you lots of money next season. Allow some of your summer heirloom vegetables, herbs and flowering annuals to set seed; annuals like cosmos, marigolds and cleome, and herbs like fennel, dill, and coriander store well.
Once the seeds are fully mature you can collect them; do this on a dry, warm day. Use a clothes peg to secure the branches upside down inside a large brown envelope and hang the envelope up in a cool, dry place; do not seal the envelope. Once the seeds are thoroughly dry, gently shake off the seeds and remove any excess plant material before labelling and storing.
Start treating your conifers
Start treating your conifers for the cypress aphid in March. If left untreated, this aphid can cause whole branches, or the entire tree to die off. Systemic poisons work well and can be applied as granules, or as a drench around the roots of the trees.
KikuyuLawn Care
In cold regions feed your lawn with a fertiliser that is high in potassium like organic 3:1:5, as this will strengthen and build up reserves in cool season grasses.
If lawn caterpillars are a problem spray with Eco Insect control, a natural bio-insecticide that is non-toxic to humans. Mole crickets may also still be a problem (read my February article).
Harvester termites can cause further deterioration of lawns already suffering from dry patches and mats of dry dead grass, caused by summer heat and drought. Try to water and fertilise regularly, and mow your lawn often but set the blades higher to encourage strong healthy foliage, which in turn will deter harvester termites. If the problem persists you will have to put out bait for them.
Autumn is a great time to sow lawn seeds, so prepare the soil now for planting by digging it over well and incorporating compost and bone meal. Rake over the area and water well; remove any weeds as they emerge before sowing your seed in early autumn.
Perennials
Tidy your faded perennial plants and mulch with compost. If your arums, day lilies, Inca lilies (alstroemaria), agapanthus or shasta daisies are overcrowded you can lift and divide them now.
Be careful not to divide agapanthus into very small sections of root otherwise the new plantlets may take a few years to begin flowering again.
Before re-planting your perennials dig over the beds well, incorporating compost, bone meal and 2:3:2; water thoroughly afterwards. Select only healthy new plants to re-plant and cut back most of the foliage to encourage root development.
Fuchia Fuchsias
A drooping fuchsia does not always mean it needs water. Fuchsias need to be watered regularly but resent over watering and sometimes droop purely from the heat. If your fuchsia is drooping but the soil is moist, try moving it to a cooler location or mist down the leaves with water. This helps retain the humidity around the plant, and if you spray the undersides of the leaves, it will help deter pests like white fly and red spider.
Aquatic Plants
Most water plants die down in winter and you need to clean out your pond and remove any decaying leaves regularly to keep the water clear.
Pests & Diseases
Help prevent fungal infections on susceptible plants like roses, squashes, tomatoes etc. by spraying regularly with an organic spray like Copper Count; adding a commercial sticker or a few drops of Sunlight liquid will make the spray more effective.
Blast insects like aphids off your plants with a jet of water or spray with Neem. If thrips are a problem, spray with Neem oil.
Indoor Pot Plants
Orchids
Reduce the amount of water you give your Dendrobium orchids as this will help induce flowering in the winter months.
Cymbidium orchids also flower in winter and need to be fed regularly now with a special orchid food.
As the weather cools down reduce the amount of water you give your indoor pot plants.
Have some fun by growing hyacinths and daffodils in glass bowls filled with pebbles and water.
Position the bulbs on top of the pebbles; adding a few pieces of charcoal to keep the water sweet. Fill the container with water but ensure that it does not touch the bottom of the bulbs or they will rot. Top up the water as required as the bulbs develop.
Mackaya bellaTake semi-hardwood cuttings
Certain plants are so easy to propagate, so if you are gardening on a budget why not try your hand at growing your own shrubs. It is time to take semi-hardwood cuttings of fast growing plants like abelia, acalypha, bougainvilleas, crotons, hydrangeas, hibiscus and the forest bell bush (Mackaya bella); as well as soft tip cuttings of lavender, pelargoniums and daisy bushes; rooting them in washed river sand or perlite.
When taking cuttings, cut a 5cm healthy stem from the base of the stem just below a node or leaf joint and remove the lower leaves. Dip the end of the cutting into rooting hormone (available at garden centres) before planting, and insert half the stem into a tray of well-drained river sand or a mixture of 2 parts sand and 1 part peat, seedling or potting soil. Place the trays in a cool, semi-shaded corner and keep the soil moist at all times, but not wet.
Save all your tea bags
Save all your tea bags and brew them up in a pot of water. Dilute this with water and irrigate all your acid loving plants like, gardenia, azalea, camellia, yesterday, today and tomorrow (brunfelsia), ferns and blue hydrangea with it.
Herbs
Plant herbs like chives, oregano, parsley, tarragon, thyme and rosemary; they will grow through winter, adding flavour to those comforting winter soups and stews. Continue to harvest and dry or freeze herbs for winter use.
Strawberry barrelFruit
April is Strawberry planting month in South Africa
Look out for healthy strawberry plants as April is the right time to plant them. Prepare your beds now by digging in lots of compost and well-matured manure together with a generous dressing of bone meal. In acid soils add a sprinkling of agricultural lime. Water well and allow the beds to lie fallow for about two weeks before you plant. Peg down your existing strawberry runners leaving only one runner on young plants and two or three for older plants. Feed your strawberry plants with organic 3:1:5 when you have finished harvesting.
Click here to read all about strawberries
Late-bearing fruit trees
Feed your late-bearing fruit trees for the last time with an organic 3:1:5 or 6:1:5 once the last fruit has been harvested. Sprinkle the fertiliser under the drip line but never allow it to fall near to the stems. Early fruiting varieties can also be fed again for the last time this season, as long as they are not showing excessive leaf growth.
Apples and pears are ready to harvest when they twist off easily and must also be fed when you are finished harvesting.
Feed your grapes for the last time with a high nitrogen fertiliser and give them a dose of Epsom salts (5 tablespoons per 10l of water).
As the fruits of your citrus begin to swell it is essential to water deeply and regularly. Putting down mulch will help to conserve moisture, but keep it away from the stem to prevent collar rot. If the branches are too heavily laden with fruit, thin out some of the fruit. Feed with an organic 3:1:5 and spray with a trace element mixture like Trelmix if the leaves show deficiencies. If the leaves are yellow water with Epson salts (5 tablespoons per 10l of water).
Feed tropical fruits like bananas, litchis, mangoes, paw-paws and avocadoes with a balanced general fertiliser and maintain good mulch, but keep it away from the stems. If insufficient rain falls, water deeply every two to three weeks.
Sweetpeas. Picture courtesy Nu-leaf NurserySummer rainfall (Temperate or Highveld Regions)
In cold regions start cutting back on the amount of water you give your established shrubs and trees; watering thoroughly but less often. If you overwater and overfeed at this time of the year, your plants will produce lots of soft new growth which will be killed off by the first severe frost. You need to harden the wood of your plants slowly now to withstand the coming dry season and the cold.
Do not prune your garden too much now because all that summer growth will protect your plants from the frost. Also, do not mow your lawn too short either or it will not recover properly before winter.
Late summer and autumn are great times to plant hardy shrubs and trees; these will be nicely settled by spring and have a head start when the first rains arrive. In early March feed your whole garden including your lawn, citrus trees and roses for the last time this season with an organic 3:1:5 fertiliser and water it in well. Never throw fertiliser up against the stems of plants and never apply too much.
In the warmer winter regions you can make your last sowings of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, cabbage and cauliflower. Late summer and autumn is the best time to sow Asian greens like mizuna, pak choi and tatsoi. Other crops like celery, lettuce, endives, beetroot, broad beans, Swiss chard, kale, kohlrabi, true spinach, mustard, leeks, late season onions and shallotts, garlic, carrots, radishes, parsnips and turnips can also be sown now. In very cold regions wait until June or July to sow peas, because the leaves are frost hardy but the flowers are tender. Planting them later will ensure they flower at the right time.
Because regions can very greatly in climate within quite small distances, always check with your local garden centre for the exact times for sowing and planting.
if you have not done so yet, finish sowing your winter and spring flowering annuals as soon as possible. Try alyssum, aquilegia, snapdragons, stocks, dianthus, bellis perennis, Canterbury bells, candytuft, delphinium, foxglove, cineraria, godetia, Iceland poppy, lobelia, lupin, larkspur, ornamental cabbage, poor man's orchid, primula, pansy and viola, petunias, sweetpeas
Wait to sow Namaqualand daisies, Bokbaai vygies, calendula, cornflowers, Virginian stocks, and nemesia until towards the end of March or early April, when the soil temperatures have cooled down significantly. These annuals are easy to grow when sown directly into well-prepared garden beds.
Klip Buchu (Coleonema) Winter rainfall regions (Mediterranean)
The end of summer can be a dry time so it is important to continue with responsible water-wise gardening practises. It is a great time to plant shrubs and trees so that they will be well established by summer. It is also the perfect time to plant fynbos species like proteas, ericas, leucospermums and leucodendrons; and why not try some klip buchu.
Plant indigenous bulbs; like Babiana, Freesia, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Ixias, Gladioli, Ornithogalum (Chincherinchee) and Lachenalias.
Autumn is a good time to re-pot your outdoor container plants so that they can settle down and make roots while the weather is still warm but not too hot, and benefit from the first autumn showers.
As the weather cools down, you can start to do some light pruning and tidying up; removing any ugly branches on trees and shrubs and spent flowers. Prune all your summer flowering shrubs once they have finished blooming, as well as your summer-flowering perennials like daisy bushes, salvia and lavender, mulching the soil well afterwards. Use the pruning’s to make cuttings. Divide agapanthus and arum lilies now if necessary. Remember, agapanthus resent disturbance, so only divide them when absolutely necessary. If you prune down your dianthus and begonias now, and feed them, they will reward you with another flush of flowers in autumn. Mulch your garden beds to help prevent soil erosion when the rains come.
Make your last sowings of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower. Late summer and autumn is the best time to sow cabbage, Chinese cabbage, and Asian greens like mizuna, pak choi and tatsoi, as well as traditional crops like celery, lettuce, endives, beetroot, broad beans, mustard, kale, kohlrabi, parsnips, turnips, onions, carrots, peas, Swiss chard, true spinach, leeks, and radishes.
Because regions can very greatly in climate within quite small distances, always check with your local garden centre for the exact times for sowing and planting.
Winter and spring flowering annuals can be sown into seedling trays now and placed in a cool, protected place. Try arctotois, and the lovely Cape forget-me-not or vergeetmynietjie (Anchusa capensis), aquilegia, alyssum, cineraria, delphinium, foxglove, godetia, hollyhock, stocks, snapdragons, dianthus, bellis perennis, primula, pansy and viola, sweet pea, Iceland poppy, lobelia, lupin, larkspur, ornamental cabbage, linaria, candytuft, Canterbury bells, and poor man's orchid.
TibouchinaSubtropical summer rainfall regions
This is the best season to garden in these regions, so enjoy the cooler weather and prepare for a glorious winter and spring, flower, vegetable and herb garden. Many summer flowering plants and vegetables grow better during the winter months in these regions, so prepare your beds for planting now.
Feed your lawn every 6 weeks with a balanced organic fertiliser that is high in nitrogen, and allow it to grow a bit longer than usual. Feed the rest of your garden with organic 3:1:5 and water it in well. Never throw fertiliser up against the stems of plants and never apply too much. Mulch your garden beds to help retain moisture and keep the soil cool.
Prune all your summer flowering shrubs that have finished flowering, including your Tibouchinas which respond well to a heavy pruning every four or five years. If your Strelitzias are overcrowded you can divide them now.
Start sowing pansy and viola, Iceland poppy, torenia, zinnia, begonia, alyssum, snapdragons, aquilegia, bellis perennis, delphinium, foxglove, gaillardia, linaria, lobelia, and lupin.
Wait to sow Namaqualand daisies, Bokbaai vygies, calendula, cornflowers, Virginian stocks, and nemesia until towards the end of March or early April, when the soil temperatures have cooled down significantly. These annuals are easy to grow when sown directly into well-prepared garden beds.
In warm frost free areas, most winter crops can be planted throughout winter. In these warmer regions, continue to sow seeds of vegetables that you can plant out into the garden once the weather cools down.
In sub-tropical regions March is the last month to plant onions, and April is the last month to plant peppers. Otherwise, cabbage, spinach, beetroot, tomato, beans, peas, coriander, rocket, chillies, carrot, lettuce, gem squash and butternut can all still be planted.
Although lettuce, spinach, cabbage, mustard greens, kale and turnips grow best in cooler weather, there are varieties of each that are more tolerant warmer temperatures, than others. Heat-tolerant varieties which are slower to bolt or produce a seed stalk are more suitable for subtropical regions. Cold tolerant varieties will tolerate frost, so for this reason it is very important to purchase seeds from a reputable garden centre which will have the correct varieties for your region on their shelves, at the correct time of the year.
Root crops like carrots, beetroot, radishes, parsnips, leeks, late season onions and shallots, kohlrabi, garlic and turnips thrive in winter. Try growing broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, oriental cabbages, cauliflower, celery, broad beans, lettuce, peas, Swiss chard, kale, true spinach, mustard, endives, mizuna and Asian greens like pak choi and tatsoi also do best in the colder months. If you did not sow or plant garlic and onions last month (Read my February article).
Because regions can very greatly in climate within quite small distances, always check with your local garden centre for the exact times for sowing and planting. Click here to read my tips for growing veggies in subtropical regions.
Virginian Stocks Dry, semi-arid and continental regions
Start cutting back on the amount of water you give your established shrubs and trees; watering thoroughly but less often. If you overwater and overfeed at this time of the year, your plants will produce lots of soft new growth which will be killed off by the first severe frost. You need to harden the wood of your plants slowly now to withstand the coming dry season and the cold.
Do not prune your garden too much now because all that summer growth will protect your plants from the frost. Do not mow your lawn too short or it will not recover properly before winter.
Late summer and autumn are great times to plant hardy shrubs and trees; these will be nicely settled by spring and have a head start when the first rains arrive.
In early March feed your whole garden including your lawn, citrus trees and roses for the last time this season with an organic 3:1:5 fertiliser and water it in well. Never throw fertiliser up against the stems of plants and never apply too much.
Do not divide your perennials now, rather just tidy them up and mulch them well to prevent the soil from freezing. You can however divide your Irises now, re-plant only strong healthy pieces and mulch well. Mark the places where they are growing so that they are not accidentally dug up in winter.
Buy your winter seeds now and start sowing as soon as the weather cools down. Try alyssum, aquilegia, bellis perennis, Iceland poppy, candytuft, Canterbury bells, snapdragons, stocks, primula, pansy and viola, sweetpeas, candytuft, delphinium, foxglove, lupin, larkspur, and ornamental cabbage. In brak (salty water) gardens sow hollyhocks this month; they are perfect for these areas.
Wait to sow Namaqualand daisies, Bokbaai vygies, calendula, cornflowers, and Virginian stocks until towards the end of March or early April, when the soil temperatures have cooled down significantly. These annuals are easy to grow when sown directly into well-prepared garden beds.
Make your last sowings of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage, cabbage and cauliflower. Late summer and autumn is the best time to sow Asian greens like mizuna, pak choi and tatsoi. Also remember traditional crops like celery, lettuce, endives, beetroot, broad beans, Swiss chard, kale, kohlrabi, true spinach, mustard, leeks, late season onions and shallots, garlic, carrots, radishes, parsnips and turnips can also be sown now. In very cold regions wait until June or July to sow peas, because the leaves are frost hardy but the flowers are tender. Planting them later will ensure they flower at the right time.
10 stars of the winter flower garden
Matrix Purple Pansy, Citrona Orange Erysimum, Sorbet Orange Duet Viola, Easter Bonnet Violet Alyssum. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyColour is what most people are drawn to in a garden and should be tactfully incorporated into your design for maximum impact. For glorious, instant gratification - nothing beats bedding plants; and just a few trays of seedlings will transform your garden into a kaleidoscope of brilliant colour. Colour will also enhance the visibility of your business and bold floral plantings can be changed seasonally to continually attract attention. Colour will also add value to your home if you are hoping to sell, and can be used to effectively brighten up a dull garden for special occasions like weddings or other functions. If strategically placed where they will have the most impact, pots will transform any area of your garden; and many bedding plants grow beautifully in containers. A few groupings of flowering pots and hanging baskets will instantly add a warm and welcoming touch to entrances, patios and other areas.
Because February can be a very hot month in most regions of the country, and the weather unpredictable, most gardeners don’t even think about their winter garden until it’s almost too late to sow and plant. Some gardeners may even wonder if it’s worth the effort and expense of planting a winter garden; but this need not be expensive; and to get the most out of your plants and your budget, you need to plan and prepare for winter now. If you need colour right now to take you through to autumn; visit your garden centre to select some instant colour seedling bags.
As your summer garden slowly starts to fade, keep on watering and deadheading your summer flowers and perennials to keep them neat and blooming for longer, but slowly start making space and preparing your beds, borders or pots for winter plants. Most bedding plants need well drained soil to thrive and thorough soil preparation is vital; so start by digging the bed over thoroughly. Add generous quantities of compost or other organic matter and a handful of bone meal to each square meter of bed. Leave the beds fallow until planting time in March or April. For pots, use a very well drained potting mixture and add some bone meal.
If you are planting a mixture of various varieties, remember to group plants together which have the same watering requirements. Water newly planted seedlings regularly until they become established; and don’t forget to water those growing in the shade of trees because they compete with the tree roots for both water and nutrients. Dense trees also prevent a lot of rainwater from actually reaching the ground.
Once the soil temperatures have dropped significantly you can start to sow or plant out your trays of seedlings. Remember to water the beds and the trays of seedlings thoroughly the day before planting or sowing. Always plant in the cool of the afternoon; and to avoid damaging the seedlings, gently coax them out of their trays by pushing them out from below. Another common mistake gardeners make is to plant their seedlings too deep; never bury the stems of seedlings or cover their crowns with soil as this can cause them to rot. Water well after transplanting and keep the soil moist but not soggy until they are established.
Some winter seedlings are hardier to frost and cold temperatures than others; and some are more suited to humid climates than others, so ensure that you select those perfect for your region and buy your seedlings from a reputable garden centre.
African or Namaqualand daisies are so prolific if grown if full sun that the leaves are almost invisible when the blooms appear. Their flowers come in the traditional bright orange and yellow; as well as many pastel shades and pure white. Sow them en masse directly into large beds, rockeries or borders for hassle-free colour. Click here for more info..
Alyssum remains one of the most popular bedding plants for full sun because it is low maintenance and long flowering. Its honey scented flower spikes are available in lovely in shades of pink, rose, purple, mauve, white and yellow. Alyssum mixes beautifully with other flowering plants in hanging baskets, window boxes and all manner of containers; and makes a great border plant. Click here for more info..
Bellis perennis or English daisy is loved for its bright-green leaves and double daisy flowers in all shades of pink to rose, scarlet and white. It is wonderful for semi shade and grows easily in pots. It is also a lovely border plant and grows well in woodland or pebble gardens. Click here for more info..
Bokbaai vygies thrive in very hot beds in full sun and are unrivalled for their multitude of dazzling, brightly coloured flowers. They are hardy rockery and border plants and if planted en masse, make a striking groundcover. They are perfect to use in hanging baskets and containers of all kinds in hot areas; like sunny patios and driveways. Click here for more info..
Iceland poppies are easy-to-grow in full sun and will flower all winter and spring if you nip out very first flowers and continually deadhead thereafter. They are available in bright and pastel shades of red, pink, yellow, orange, cream and white, as well as bicoloured varieties. They combine beautifully with most winter flowering annuals and make a fantastic backdrop for spring flowering bulbs. Click here for more info..
Nemesias can be planted in full sun or light shade and are grown for their masses of small snapdragon-like flowers with intense colours, like gold, yellow, orange, rose, pink, peach, red and white. They grow beautifully in containers and make a colourful border plant. Planted in massed displays they make a spectacular show. Click here for more info..
Pansies and violas are timeless winter and spring flowering favourites for full sun and come in a staggering range of bright or pastel shades. They are perfect planted in hanging baskets and containers of all kinds and combine beautifully with spring flowering bulbs for a brilliant display. Click here for more info..
Petunias love full sun and are available in an outstanding array of colours; making perfect centrepieces to mixed plantings in pots, hanging baskets and window boxes. They are also excellent border plants and if planted in mass, will provide brilliant colour for months on end. The cascading varieties are wonderful in hanging baskets. Click here for more info..
Primulas remain firm favourites for the shade with their masses of delicate flowers in delightful shades of lilac, purple, pink, carmine-red and white. They are beautiful in window boxes, hanging baskets and pots; and their delicate flowers make a striking edging plant; putting on a brilliant show if displayed in massed flowerbeds. Combined with spring flowering bulbs they will give you months and months of pleasure. Click here for more info..
Snapdragons love full sun and are available in dwarf, tall and even trailing varieties; and are available in nearly every available flower colour, or bicolour, including red, bronze, yellow, orange, pink, purple, cream and white. They are wonderful in the mixed flower border and the dwarf varieties make excellent edging plants. Plant them in window boxes, hanging baskets and containers of all sizes. Click here for more info..nsert here
Frugal vegetable gardening tips
Raised Vegetable Beds. Picture courtesy Dave MaczugaTrends worldwide are swiftly departing from excess to a focus on frugal eating; and cash strapped consumers are becoming producers via their own backyard gardens. Growing vegetables and herbs at home, whether it's a few containers on the patio or a full-fledged vegetable patch can be most economical, but while vegetable gardening is money saving in theory, there are many common pitfalls which can make the vegetable garden a cash drainer, instead of a money saver.
Having help in the garden is great; but generally small scale vegetable gardening is only worthwhile if you are able to take care of the garden yourself. Work out the costs and if you don't have the time or energy to garden yourself, it may be more economical if you don’t start a vegetable garden at all!
The most common mistake most new veggie gardeners make is to bite of more than they can chew, so start off small, selecting only a few of your favourite vegetables and herbs to begin with. If you find that you are coping well, you can always slowly increase the size of your patch. Don’t be discouraged if in the beginning you inadvertently kill some of your plants - as with everything in life “practice makes perfect”. Sow or plant a few more plants than you think you’ll need, because a few are bound to die off due to bad weather; and a good few could be munched by insects.
forkThe cost of gardening equipment can be quite prohibitive, so start off with the basics, like a spade, fork, hoe, small hand tools for digging, secateurs, a hose pipe with fittings or a watering can, and a small but good sprayer. With a little extra effort you should be able to find these items on special at your local hardware store; or you could even source them second hand. Once you have the basic tools, your gardening costs should go down dramatically. Concerning other equipment you might need like seedling trays etc. “think outside the box”; there are so many household items which can be recycled for this purpose; like egg boxes, toilet rolls or yogurt tubs. If your kids love ice creams, the wooden or plastic sticks can be used to label your seedlings with a permanent marker. And if you have a good salvage yard near you, it’s a great place to look for cages, stakes and unusual supports for climbing plants. You may even find recycled wood which can be used to build raised beds, or some interesting containers.
Soil is like gold for gardeners and vegetable crops take a lot out of the soil and nutrients must be replenished every season. Soil is expensive to buy, so to start off, try to source small bulk quantities or buy bags of compost when they are on a special. Later you can make a compost bin at home out of old garbage bins; or even a homemade red worm farm - there are many DIY solutions online.
Water is one of those gardening expenses we don’t really notice until the bill comes! Yet a vegetable garden cannot go without water for long, so consider storing rainwater in any container you have available, even an old dustbin can hold quite a lot of water. Re-directing water from bathroom and kitchen drains into your garden isn’t just a money saver, it’s a water saver. It takes a little work and you’ll probably want to call in a professional, but the savings are long term. Watering by hand can be time consuming, and you may later consider putting in an efficient irrigation system. Self-watering 
Picture courtesy Beth Harpercontainers buried next to your plant can provide water directly to the roots. Self-watering containers can easily be made from plastic cold drink bottles by cutting off the bottoms, inserting small holes around the narrow top end, and inserting the bottle upside down, with its cap on, directly into the soil next to each vegetable. Water will slowly be released through the small holes, directly to the roots of the plant. Continually mulching your beds with newspapers, cardboard, straw or any other organic material will also greatly reduce the need for watering, retard weed growth and keep your vegetables flourishing.
Another hidden cost involved in vegetable gardening are organic pesticides, because believe me, no matter whether you garden organically or not, you will have to spray at some time or risk losing your crop. If you have the time you can do some research online; there are many organic homemade sprays which you can easily make at home.
Starting vegetables and herbs from seed is the cheapest way to start, but although this method is quite easy, it is time consuming and some gardeners may find it tricky. If this is the case, a few seedling trays purchased from your garden centre would still be economical. If you want to start from seeds, try to source heirloom seeds, which are available online in South Africa. The seeds of heirloom plants can be harvested at the end of the growing season, stored and sown again next season; so you should never have to purchase seeds again of those varieties you already have in your garden. Also, if you have family or friends who also wish to grow vegetables, consider ordering together and sharing the seeds.
Companion Planting. Picture courtesy Caitlin Ferguson Companion planting involves planting a diverse mix of plants like herbs and certain flowering plants together with vegetables to help deter pests, but did you know that they are also great to help conserve water, because the seedlings are planted fairly close together; forming a living mulch around the roots of the plants and reducing evaporation. Herbs cost a fortune in the stores, but are so easy to grow; and because most of them are perennials, they will give you years of productive growth before they need replacing. They are also easy to propagate from cuttings or division of the roots, so do include these in your frugal vegetable garden. Once again, be wise and start small; planting only the herbs you actually use. You can slowly add to your collection and may eventually include herbs like tansy which makes it an excellent insect repelling plant; or comfrey, whose leaves are rich in calcium, vitamins, minerals, protein, and especially potassium; making great mulch for vegetables that are heavy feeders like tomatoes and potatoes.
Harvesting your vegetables can also be time consuming and if you have a glut of one vegetable; freezing, dehydrating, or canning the excess is most economical but also time consuming. If you don’t have time, why not share and swap produce with others in your gardening circle. A basket of home grown produce also makes an excellent gift.
The most important thing you can do to save money in your garden is to arm yourself with knowledge. Read up on the different plants you're buying to find out what conditions they need. Learn the correct growing season for each vegetable variety, as well as the ideal temperatures and conditions for germinating seeds.
February
Aztec Violet Verbena. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyWhat to do in your garden in February
All Regions
Late summer is a wonderful time to spend in your garden and you should be reaping the rewards of all your hard labour. At this time of the year your garden should be overflowing with an abundance of flowers and beautiful shrubs, and you should be harvesting your vegetables and herbs daily.
The secret to good gardening is to select plants for all seasons; so if your garden is looking a bit dreary, visit your local garden centre and select plants which come into their own from mid to late summer and autumn. Remember to include those plants which produce beautiful berries, seed capsules or foliage.
(Read my articles; plants to colour your garden from mid to late summer and autumn).
Mulch
February can be a very hot month and a good time to renew the mulch in your garden, if you have not done so yet. This is especially relevant in the winter rainfall regions and hot, dry inland regions. In the summer rainfall regions heavy rain can compact your soil and quickly leeches out fertilisers from the soil, so in these regions you should loosen the soil, fertilise and apply mulch.
Click here to read about the ins and outs of mulching.
Rose XP Mediterranean Vinca. Picture courtesy Ball Horticultural CompanyKeep your summer flowers blooming for longer
Your late summer garden should be overflowing with an abundance of flowers. If you continue to feed, water and deadhead your plants regularly, it’s amazing how much longer they will continue to bloom, besides keeping them looking neat and tidy. Even if you only have a half an hour to spare – it’s amazing how many dead flowers you can actually clip off in such a short time; besides it will give you a little fresh air, some stretching exercises, and clear your mind :)
Winter seedlings
In cold regions you can ‘prick’ out the winter seedlings you sowed last month and transplant them into seedling trays. (Read last months article)
In subtropical regions wait until the end of the month or early March to sow winter and spring flowering annuals.
In the cooler winter regions you can start sowing winter annuals. Try cineraria, primula, pansy, stocks, viola, Iceland poppies and ornamental kale. It is also time to sow slow maturing perennials and biennials like foxgloves, delphinium, Canterbury bells, larkspurs, sweet William, and aquilegia (Columbine). Keep delphinium seed in your refrigerator for before sowing as this will speed up germination.
Sweetpeas are so easy to grow and relatively inexpensive. Not only are they highly scented, but they also come in a wonderful selection of clear single, or mixed colours; ranging from almost black to the softest pink, blue, lilac, purple, red, white - and all the shades in-between.
These excellent cut-flowers will bring warmth and cheer to any winter's day. Pick large bunches and fill your home with them - the more you pick them the more they will bloom! Children also love growing them and the seeds are large enough for even the tiniest of fingers to handle.
Climbing, knee-high and extra-dwarf varieties are available, so there is no excuse not to have some of these easy-to-grow plants in even the smallest of gardens.
If you want to grow climbing sweet peas this winter prepare your trenches now. Dig them +-50 to 70 cm deep, adding lots of compost, a general purpose fertiliser like 2:3:2, and a dressing of bone meal. You can start sowing from the middle of February, but in very hot regions, wait until the end of the month or early next month.
If you divide established perennial primroses now; they will have a few months to re-establish themselves before winter.
Click on highlighted links for more information on the flowers mentioned.
"Smell Me" Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaRoses
Give your roses a little tender loving care in February and you will be rewarded with a breath-taking flush of blooms in autumn. As the weather cools down your rose bushes will produce long lasting blooms of the most intense colours. If you have not done so yet, replenish the mulch around the roots and water deeply and regularly every two to three days. Do not fertilise in February, but towards the end of the month feed with fertiliser that is high in both nitrogen and potassium like 5:1:5 or 3:1:5.
During hot, dry weather in summer roses can be plagued by red spiders; and during frequent rainy or humid weather, they are more susceptible to fungal infections like rust, powdery mildew and black spot, so do some preventative spraying to stop infections from occurring; in very humid regions downy mildew may also become a problem.
If you never had a chance to prune your roses lightly last month in order to remove any weak or spindly growth, and your plants are growing vigorously with lots of healthy leaves, you can still trim them lightly this month by cutting back to a plump outward-facing bud. If, however, your plants have short stems with small flowers; do not prune them at all, except to cut off the dead blooms. Always remember that in summer it is vital that your roses have as much leaf cover as possible to prevent the stems from sunburn.
Hawkmoth caterpillar. Picture courtesy Kobus PretoriousHawk moth caterpillars
If your Arum lilies have holes in the leaves or are completely stripped, you probably have hawk moth caterpillars. They also attack other garden plants like fuchsias and impatiens. These caterpillars can grow up to 8cm long and may be green or brown; with two distinctive eyespots and a horn on the tail. They feed at night and can hardly be seen during the day. Pick them off by hand at night; or spray with Margaret Roberts Biological Caterpillar, or any spray containing natural pyrethrins.
Bulbs
If you planted bulbs of the March lily (Amaryllis belladonna) last month, or sowed seeds of Anemone and Ranunculus; continue feeding and watering them, together with your other summer flowering bulbs.
Allow summer flowering bulbs to die down naturally; do not cut off the leaves as these feed the plants while they are producing next seasons flower embryos. If you think they look too untidy, tie them together with a piece of string.
Continue to disbud the larger varieties of dahlias if you want large blooms; check them for red spiders.
If your Cannas are still flowering continue do disbud them by pulling out the entire stem of spent shoots, and water them regularly.
Remove the seed heads from your Agapanthus; and if you want to propagate new plants collect the seeds when they are fully ripe and have turned black, planting them into seedling trays; the new plants will take three years to flower.
Summer Pruning
In summer we need to do some occasional pruning just to keep plants in check. If your garden is looking a bit unruly, January and February are good months to tackle this problem. If you live in cold and frosty regions, do not leave your summer pruning too late, because you want your plants to shoot, and the new growth to harden off again before winter sets in. Also, if you live in a hot or very dry region, if you prune too harshly at this time of the year, your sensitive plants may not have enough leaf cover to protect them from sunburn.
Give your hydrangeas a summer prune by cutting the flower heads back to a healthy, plump bud, unless you want to dry the flowers.
When your daisy bushes, lavender and pelargoniums stop flowering, prune them back by a third.
Remember, don’t prune plants that will flower or produce berries in autumn, winter or spring. These plants are best pruned right after they have finished flowering.
Always use the right cutting tools for the job and ensure that your blades are sharp. Make each pruning cut clean at a slight angle, with no jagged edges; and for trees and prized shrubs, seal the larger cuts with a tree seal.
Fuchsias, Hydrangeas, Camellias and Azaleas
Continue to water your fuchsias, hydrangeas, camellias and azaleas regularly or they will not flower properly in season. Feed potted azaleas regularly with a liquid organic fertiliser and water them with a weak solution of iron chelate if the leaves are a bit yellow. You can still prune and feed your fuchsias if you did not do so last month. (Read last months article)
Semi-hardwood cuttings
February is a good month to take softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings of deciduous and evergreen shrubs and perennials like abelia, daisy bushes, fuchsias, hydrangeas, heliotrope, New Guinea impatiens, lavender, penstemon, pelargonium, salvia, verbena and weigelia. Dip the cuttings into a rooting powder before planting them into washed river sand mixed with a little compost. Take tip cuttings of conifers this month; from semi-ripe wood. Place them in a cool place and keep them moist, not wet. These will take the whole winter to root.
Members can click on the highlighted plants to read more.
Lawn CatterpillarLawn
During very hot, dry weather your lawn should not be cut too short as this can lead to fungal problems due to sun scorch. Continue feeding with a balanced organic fertilizer; a fertiliser high in potassium like 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 will encourage strong, deep roots that are more heat tolerant.
Watch out for mole crickets, they cause dead patches in your lawn and make it feel mushy underfoot. Organic formulations containing natural pyrethrins will only work if the pesticide comes into direct contact with the cricket, which burrows deep down into the soil and comes up at night to feed. Spray heavily in the late afternoon or early evening and irrigate heavily afterwards. Other products include insecticides like Zero, Koinor and Merit.
Look out for lawn caterpillars which attack kikuyu, Berea (LM) and Cynodon (e.g. golf green) lawns as well as evergreen grass mixes. Your lawn will show dead patches in spots. In severe cases the patches will turn brown and the grass will die down completely. These caterpillars hide below the grass during the day and come out at night to feed. If you are not sure whether you have lawn caterpillars or not, put a damp towel on your lawn at night and check underneath the towel for them in the morning. The larvae are a pale green, becoming darker with broken longitudinal stripes along their length as they mature. Any Eco Insect Control, which contains spinosad as the active ingredient can be used to control them.
Vegetables
Cherry Tomatoes
Unless you live in the sub-tropical regions of South Africa, It’s too late to plant slow maturing summer vegetables this month, but in the cold winter regions it is time to sow many winter crops and to start preparing and planning your winter veggie garden.
In the warm sub-tropical regions continue to sow seeds of vegetables that can be planted out into the garden once the weather cools down. Try sweet peppers, chillies, eggplants, tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, baby marrows, Swiss chard, green beans and cabbage.
In the cooler regions continue sowing winter vegetables like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and kohlrabi into seedling trays, for planting out in early autumn. Feed the seedlings of those sown last month with a liquid fertiliser that is high in nitrogen. In these regions it is also a good time to sow lettuce directly into well-prepared beds.
Continue sowing or planting summer vegetables like; celery, turnips, leeks, beetroot, carrots, parsnips, radish, parsley, Swiss chard, and spring onions.
In all regions, but especially in hot and dry areas it may be necessary to protect newly planted seedlings from the sun for a couple of days. Always plant in the late afternoon and water thoroughly afterwards; this will give the new transplants time to settle in before the next hot day.
There’s just enough time to get a second planting of potatoes into the ground for a late autumn harvest. To check if your existing potato crop is ready to harvest; remove one or two tubers, if you can rub the skin off with your thumb then they need another week or two to harden up. However, if you can't rub the skin off then you can lift your entire crop. If you want to store your summer crop for winter use, do not wash the potatoes, rather lay them out to dry and then gently brush off the excess dirt before storing them in cardboard boxes or hessian sacks, in a cool, dark, well ventilated place.
GarlicIts garlic planting season, and in the good old days gardeners planted garlic which had started to sprout in the kitchen straight into their gardens and it produced good crops. Unfortunately this is no longer true of garlic purchased from your local supermarket, which may sprout, but if planted out never amounts to anything. This is because our garlic is largely imported and to pass customs it needs to be irradiated to ensure that no live soil borne pathogens are carried into the country. This process of killing off any potential soil borne pathogens also destroys the viability of the garlic you have bought.
Garlic is renowned for its health giving properties and growing your own is easy and best for your health. There is a very specific planting season for garlic, which starts from February and all the way through to April for Giant Garlic. If you plant at the wrong time of the year you will not have the best results. Garlic must be harvested before the leaves turn yellow and they begin to re-sprout.
February is also a great month to sow short day onion seed because onions prefer a cool growing season. Onions take anything from 4 to 7 months to mature, so prepare the beds thoroughly and ensure that they are well drained. Onions can be sown into seedling trays, or directly into garden beds in shallow drills and covered with +-10mm of soil. Thin the seedlings out to +-7 to 10cm apart, in rows +-22cm apart; never plant onion seedlings too deeply. To encourage growth, about a month after transplanting; feed with a fertiliser which is high in nitrogen, and water regularly until the onions mature. Once they start to mature cut back on watering.
Cut out the flowering heads of rhubarb, and if you want to collect seeds of Swiss chard, allow 1 or 2 plants to go to seed.
Cut back artichokes to promote new growth for next season. Remove all flowers and very small fruits from your pumpkins and hubbard squashes because they will not have enough time to develop fully before the cold sets in, and just sap the energy from the plant.
Herbs
If your herbs are looking a bit scraggly, give them a light trim; using the pruned branches to dry and store for winter use. If you have sufficient dried herbs, strew the cut branches amongst your vegetables, roses, or any other garden plants.
Harvest the culinary seeds of coriander, dill, fennel, caraway and anise to use during the winter months in those delicious winter soups, curries and stews. What you don’t use you can plant again next spring, saving you lots money. An easy way to dry the seeds of herbs is to attach the cut branches, upside-down, inside a large brown envelope using pegs. Then, simply peg the envelope to a coat hanger and hang it up in an airy room for the seeds. The envelope will catch all the seeds as they dry and drop.
If you prefer to take cuttings, February is a good time to take semi-hardwood tip cuttings of herbs like rosemary, bay, lavender, thyme, lemon verbena and sage.
To take herb cuttings, fill a pot with compost or herb mix, and if you have washed river sand handy, mix some into the mixture to ensure that your drainage is perfect. Place the soil mix into your containers and gently firm it down; but leave about a 1cm gap between the top of the compost and the top of the container. To make cuttings, remove healthy, pest and disease-free shoot tips that are about 10cm long. Trim off the lower leaves and cut cleanly beneath a leaf joint. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone powder to encourage fast root development, and insert five or six cuttings into the pot. Taking several cuttings of each herb will increase your chances of success. Don’t forget to label your cuttings and water well. Allow the pot to drain for several hours before placing a clear plastic bag around the pot, supported by sticks or straws, and secured with an elastic band. Keep your cuttings in a sheltered, shady but well-lit place and check on them regularly. If too much moisture builds up inside the bag; open it up for a while or the cuttings may rot. If the soil becomes too dry you can always add water. Cuttings should have rooted within eight weeks and can then be potted into individual pots.
Flower or Fruit Chafer Beetle. Picture courtesy Ruslou KoortsFruit
Hang traps under your grapevines to catch the black and yellow fruit chafer beetles, which feed on the ripening grapes. These beetles are easy to identify by their striking black and yellow patterns and the buzzing sound they make. They are attracted to the colour yellow. Make a trap by cutting a small window in the top half of a 2-litre plastic cool drink bottle. Paint a yellow band above and below the window and fill with 2 tablespoons of sugar dissolved into 200ml of water. Protect the ripening bunches from birds with mesh bags, or bird netting.
Feed your citrus trees with 3:1:5 or 2:3:2 fertilisers; spreading it out to the drip line of the tree and watering it in well. Because most citrus trees will produce new leaf growth in late summer and early autumn, it is essential to keep an eye out for citrus psylla and to treat your trees with a suitable insecticide for this at the first signs of infestation. Psylla are tiny winged insects which lay their leaves on the undersides of young leaves and once the eggs hatch, the tiny insects live in the developing leaves, causing discolouring of the leaves and unsightly wart like bumps. Cut out infested leaves and spray as directed.
Continue to spray your late bearing deciduous fruit trees for fruit fly and throw away any fallen fruit. Feed the trees once you have finished harvesting with organic 6:1:5.
Click here to find an in-depth spraying programmePeaches
Try sowing tansy between your fruit trees next season, to help keep fruit fly at bay. Rue and nasturtiums will also act as a deterrent to sap sucking insects. A strong herbal tea can be made from the leaves of these herbs by immersing them in a bucket of water and allowing it to brew in the sun for a day, before straining and diluting with some water and spraying your plants. Over ripe fruits which have fallen under the trees must be removed and disposed of regularly to prevent the spreading of insect infestations and diseases. A good way to dispose of rotten fruit is to bury it in the ground.
Prepare new beds for strawberries, digging in compost and well-matured manure; and add a dressing of bone meal or hoof and horn meal and a handful of 2:3:2 per square metre. Let the beds lie fallow until planting time in March and April.
Harvest ripe fruit regularly and check on early bearing pears and apples; they are ready to pick when the fruits can be easily twisted by their stems.
Feed paw-paws with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen and water it in well.
Cut back granadilla plants which have finished fruiting and feed them with a good general fertiliser like 2:3:2.
Feed your figs with 2:3:2 and pick the fruit immediately, once ripe.
Winter rainfall regions (Mediterranean)
February is yet another dry hot month with high hot south-easter winds in these regions and you should do everything you can to help your plants survive by ensuring that your beds are mulched and by watering deeply. Shallow watering encourages lots of surface roots; deep watering encourages strong, deep roots. Do not over fertilise your shrubs this month, especially if you live in very dry, hot regions; as this could stress your plants. Watch out for red spider mites in the dry weather.
Continually remove the old flowers from your summer annuals to keep them blooming for longer and clean up your perennials as they finish flowering. Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of Cape bugle lily (Watsonia) and chasmanthe, replanting only the healthiest bulbs.
Mist spray your indoor pot plants regularly in hot dry weather and feed them regularly.
Feed and mulch all your fruit trees for the last time before winter. Cut back old berry canes and train up new ones.
It is time to start sowing seeds of winter and spring flowering annuals like Iceland poppies, stocks, larkspurs, primula, violas and pansies. It is also time to sow slow maturing perennials and biennials like foxgloves, delphinium, Canterbury bells, sweet william, and aquilegia (Columbine). Keep delphinium seed in your refrigerator before sowing. Keep your seedling trays in a cool, well lit place until germination.
Divide primroses now so that they will have a few months to re-establish themselves before winter.
Sow or plant vegetables like beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, celery, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, Swiss chard, parsnips and turnips. Protect newly planted seedlings from the sun and plant the late afternoon.
Summer rainfall (Temperate or Highveld Regions)
February is yet another hot month in these regions and you should do everything you can to help your plants survive the high temperatures and drying winds. Continue fertilising your garden with a balanced organic fertilizer like 2:3:2 or 3:1:5, especially after heavy rain.
Hailstorms can damage the bark of trees making them susceptible to sunburn and fungal diseases; so paint the wounds with a tree seal.
Keep your garden mulched and during dry spells water regularly and deeply, either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon, allowing enough time for the leaves to dry out before evening. Watering too late in the evening can encourage the development of fungal diseases. Shallow watering encourages lots of surface roots; deep watering encourages strong, deep roots.
If you have not started sowing winter flowers yet you can still do so this month. Sow Iceland poppies, stocks, larkspurs, primula, violas and pansies. It is also time to sow slow maturing perennials and biennials like foxgloves, delphinium, Canterbury bells, sweet william, and aquilegia (Columbine). Keep delphinium seed in your refrigerator for before sowing. Divide primroses now so that they will have a few months to re-establish themselves before winter.
Continue sowing winter veggies like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage and Chinese cabbage, spinach and kohlrabi into seedling trays. You can still sow bush beans, celery, turnips, leeks, beetroot, carrots, parsnips, radish, lettuce, parsley, Swiss chard, onions and spring onions. Protect newly planted seedlings from the sun and try to plant in the late afternoon.
Subtropical summer rainfall regions
February is one of the hottest months, with high humidity. Do all you can to keep the soil cool and conserve moisture.
Lightly prune exuberant plants and take cuttings of soft leafy plants. Prune your bougainvilleas when they finish flowering and feed them with organic 3:1:5. They thrive on neglect and do not like too much water. Poinsettias must be pruned lightly now if you want a glorious winter and autumn show. Beware of getting the sap onto bare skin and in the eyes. If you prune after the full moon, they will bleed less.
Continue to feed your garden regularly, especially after heavy rainfall and maintain your mulch. Palms will enjoy a feeder which is rich in nitrogen, your anthuriums will benefit from a slow release fertiliser, and your staghorn ferns will appreciate a feeding with a liquid fertiliser.
Keep checking for mosquitoes in little dams of water on your bromeliads and other large leaved plants and spray with Margaret Roberts Biological Mosquito Spray, or simply place a drop or two of oil or paraffin on the pools of water to keep them at bay.
Feed your paw-paws with a fertiliser that is high in nitrogen and water it in well. Granadilla plants which have finished fruiting and feed them with a good general fertiliser like 2:3:2.
Watch out for Rhinoceros beetles which are nocturnal and attracted to light. They often burrow into the tips of coconut palms and other trees to feed off the plant juices. The larvae feed on rotting vegetation and compost or manure and pupate underneath the soil.
Wait until the end of the month or early March to sow winter and spring flowering annuals.
You can start sowing many vegetables into seedling trays, to plant out into the garden once the weather cools down; and once the temperatures drop you can start sowing directly into garden beds. Try artichokes, baby marrows, bush and runner beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, onions and spring onions, radish, sweet peppers and chillies, tomatoes, Swiss chard, pumpkin and Hubbard squash.
Dry, semi-arid and continental regions
February is one of the hottest months in these regions and you should do everything you can to help your plants survive the high temperatures and drying winds. Mulch your plants and water your garden regularly and deeply, either very early in the morning or late in the afternoon, allowing enough time for the leaves to dry off before nightfall. Watering too late in the evening can encourage fungal diseases. Shallow watering encourages lots of surface roots; deep watering encourages strong, deep roots.
Do not over fertilise your garden this month if you live in very dry, hot regions, as this could stress your plants.
Continually remove old flowers from your summer annuals to keep them blooming for longer and clean up your perennials as they finish flowering.
Mist spray your indoor pot plants regularly in hot dry weather and feed them regularly.
Large parts of this region have alkaline soil and brak water. This may cause certain plants to have stunted growth and yellow leaves. Try to water these plants with rain water and treat them regularly with iron chelate and apply magnesium sulphate to the soil, for better absorption of the iron. If you have to irrigate your garden with brak water, use drip irrigation rather than overhead sprayers as the salts in the brak water may burn the leaves of your plants. Brak-tolerant plants include; wild rhubarb (Acanthus mollis), Amaryllis belladonna, chrysanthemum daisies, coreopsis, euryops, gazania, gaillardia, St Joseph's lily (Lilium longiflorum), African daisy (Dimorphotheca), wild garlic (Tulbaghia), Yucca filamentosa and most spring-flowering bulbs.
In some regions it is still too hot to sow winter and spring flowering annuals and winter vegetables, and you can wait until the end of the month or even next month. In cooler areas you can start sowing as long as you have a cool place to keep the trays.
Sow winter and spring flowering bedding plants like primula, pansies, violas, and Iceland poppies. It is also time to sow slow maturing perennials and biennials like foxgloves, delphinium, Canterbury bells, larkspurs, sweet william, and aquilegia (Columbine). Keep your seedling trays in a cool, well lit place until germination. Keep delphinium seed in your refrigerator for before sowing. Divide primroses now so that they will have a few months to re-establish themselves before winter.
Divide primroses now so that they will have a few months to re-establish themselves before winter.
Sow winter vegetables like broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage into seedling trays. Sow or plant celery, turnips, leeks, beetroot, carrots, parsnips, radish, lettuce, parsley, Swiss chard, onions and spring onions. Protect newly planted seedlings from the sun and try to plant in the late afternoon.
Shrubs & trees for summer & autumn
It is important to note that flowering times are not set in stone and can vary from year to year, depending on temperatures, climate and rainfall; the flowering times provided in this article are a guide to their flowering seasons.
Australian Brush Cherry (Syzygium paniculatum) has become one of the most popular garden plants today, particularly for screening, hedging and topiary. It has glossy, dark green leaves which are paler below, and the new growth is an attractive bronzy-red. In early summer it bears masses of fluffy, creamy white flowers, followed in late summer by clusters of very attractive edible magenta fruits.Click here for more info..
Pride-of-De-Kaap (Bauhinia galpinii) bears of orchid-like flowers from mid-summer to autumn. The flowers can vary from orange to dark brick-red. Its broad green leaves resemble butterfly wings and its upright, sprawling growth habit; make it invaluable to plant on a bank; in the mixed shrub border; or as an informal boundary plant. It will also scramble up a trellis if given a bit of assistance.Click here for more info..
Camellias produce voluptuous flowers in many shapes and sizes and flower from mid-autumn to mid-spring, depending on the variety. They are available in shades of red, pink, white and cream; and their glossy leaves look attractive all year. They can be trained as a little tree or a bushy shrub; are essential screening plants for the shady garden; and grow beautifully in a large pot.Click here for more info..
Common Myrtle (Myrtus communis) is a dense evergreen plant is grown for its small dark green leaves and its masses of fragrant white flowers in summer; followed by blue-black berries in autumn and winter which are relished by birds. It makes a lovely thick hedge and is happy growing in a pot; and there are several varieties to choose from.Click here for more info..
Oak Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)has bold, deeply lobed bright green leaves that look like Oak tree leaves; and its long pendulous panicles of creamy white flowers in middle to late summer and into autumn, turning lovely shades of pink as they age. Also in autumn, the leaves turn dramatic shades of rich bronzy-red, purple and coral. It associates beautifully with most other hydrangeas; but it will tolerate much dryer locations than its cousins, thriving with very little attention. Plant it in groups or as a specimen plant in a mixed shrub border, or in shaded woodland gardens.Click here for more info..
Christmas Rose (Hydrangea macrophylla) This hydrangea remains a firm favourite with gardeners around the world for its luxuriant foliage and abundance of huge ball-shaped or lace-capped flowers, from November through to late summer. Flowering is especially prolific in December, making them a favourite Christmas cut flower. Because of their lovely round form, large dark-green leaves and spectacular flowers, hydrangeas make wonderful background plants for the mixed shrub border; blending beautifully with other shade loving plants.Click here for more info..
Glory Tree (Tibouchina) vary in height and flower profusely during the warmer months, but are especially prolific in spring, late summer and autumn. In tropical and subtropical gardens this sumptuous display can continue well into winter. Their large bright saucer-shaped flowers can be purple, violet, pink or white. Because the blooms are carried on terminal panicles, the plants look stunning if viewed from above; so plant them near a raised deck or patio as specimen or screening plants; and if planted in small groupings the impact of bloom-time will be compounded. They also grow well in containers and can be trained as standards.Click here for more info..
Kei Apple (Dovyalis caffra) produces creamy-green flowers in summer which are sweetly-scented but not particularly attractive, but the bright orange-yellow edible fruits put on quite a show in late summer. Only female plants bear fruit, so a few specimens should be planted to ensure a supply. It is a very useful plant to grow as a hedge or screen in regions where low rainfall, and hot days, followed by cold nights, make gardening difficult. The stems and branches are armed with spines between 3 and 5cm long, making it a perfect barrier plant for farms and large properties.Click here for more info..
Laurustinus Viburnum (Viburnum tinus 'Lucidum') is a fast growing shrub with a dense, rounded crown of glossy, dark green leaves. Large flattish heads of pink flower buds open to tiny, star-shaped white flowers in late winter and spring; followed by small dark blue-black fruits berries in autumn. This shrub is perfect to plant in a mixed shrub border because it looks good all year round and makes an excellent hedging or screening plant. It also grows beautifully in a large pot. Viburnum tinus 'Variegatum' has leaves edged in creamy-white.Click here for more info..
Lobster Claws (Heliconia) command attention with their brightly coloured waxy bracts which can be orange, purple, red, yellow, pink, green, or a combination of these. The small true flowers peep out from the bracts, and depending on the species, can be hues of reds, oranges, yellows, and greens. The many species vary in height; and blooms can take the form of stiff and upright lobster claws, or hanging spirals of colourful bracts; appearing in summer and autumn. These form the centrepiece of so many tropical landscapes around the world; and a single established colony will immediately add a sense of elegance and class to gardens large or small.Click here for more info..
Pyracantha & Cotoneaster are beautiful shrubs which belong to the Rosaceae, or Rose family. In South Africa, species of northern temperate origin were introduced as garden ornamentals, and in certain regions they thrived, and their invasiveness quickly became apparent. Invasive species are controlled by the National Environmental Management Biodiversity Act (NEMBA), and both Cotoneaster and Pyracantha have been classified as Category 1b: Invasive species which must be controlled and wherever possible, removed and destroyed. Any form of trade or planting is strictly prohibited.Click here for more info..
Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica) is a beautiful erect shrub with delicate green leaves which give it a lovely lacy appearance. In spring the new foliage emerges as bright bronzed red, turning green with maturity. Clusters of creamy-white flowers are held well above the foliage and appear sporadically throughout summer. In autumn and winter nandina is adorned with fiery red leaves, if grown in full sun. Shiny red berries ripen in late autumn and persist during winter. Nandina is wonderful to use almost anywhere because it does not have invasive roots and will grow in full sun or semi-shade.Click here for more info..
Cape Leadwort (Plumbago auriculata) produces abundant trusses of pale sky-blue flowers; 'Royal Cape' has wonderful dark cobalt-blue flowers, and 'Alba' has pure white blooms. Flowers appear sporadically during the growing season, but is especially prolific in mid to late summer (November to May). If left un-pruned it will clamour up existing shrubs and trees, and looks lovely trained along a wire fence or wooden trellis; or spilling down a bank or over a low wall. If pruned it can form a round bushy shrub for the border; or a showy informal hedge. Plumbago also grows easily in pots, making it perfect for small gardens.Click here for more info..
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is a dense, upright growing shrub with a vase shape and attractive bright green leaves. In late summer and autumn it produces masses of showy flowers; varieties include single, semi-double and double blooms, in shades of purple, violet, blue, pink, red and white, often with a spot of a different colour in the middle of the throat. It is frost hardy and will help bring a bit of tropical beauty to more temperate gardens. It also makes an excellent screening plant or hedge and can be trained as an espalier.Click here for more info..
Sandanqua Viburnum (Viburnum suspensum) has a spreading yet compact growth habit making it a popular landscaping shrub. It has dark green leaves and produces a profusion of small waxy, white flowers with pinkish tints; in late winter to spring; followed by red berries that will darken to black with age; in late summer and autumn. It is a valuable shrub for the mixed shrub border because it looks good all year round; makes an excellent hedge or informal screening plant; and grows beautifully in a large pot.Click here for more info..
Spicy Jatropha (Jatropha integerrima) is a succulent shrub or small tree which is spectacular when in bloom and has attractive glossy green leaves. Star shaped bright scarlet or vermilion flowers appear during spring, summer and autumn. Use it as an accent plant in the mixed shrub border. It grows easily in containers but resents disturbance so try not to re-pot unless it is absolutely necessary. More compact growing varieties are available.Click here for more info..
Wild Dagga (Leonotis) is a multi-stemmed plant with erect stems produced from a woody rootstock. The leaves are long and hairy and the velvety flowers are produced in dense clusters along the stems in late summer and autumn and are a brilliant orange. Try planting it in groups at the back of the mixed shrub border for a dramatic vertical accent. (Leonotis leonurus var. albiflora) is the same but has creamy-white flowers.Click here for more info..
Allamanda has glossy deep green leaves and showy flowers, which bloom almost all summer and autumn. The flowers are usually golden yellow, or rose-purple; but hybrids have been bred in various shades of yellow, creamy yellow, light peach, rose and pinkish-purple. It is widely used in the tropics as a hedging plant; and can easily be trained into a free-standing lawn specimen. It will also climb if there is something to support it. Allow it to cascade down a low wall; or over hanging baskets and other containers.Click here for more info..
Blue Butterfly Bush (Clerodendrum ugandense) produces heavenly blue flowers almost continuously from spring to autumn. Each bloom has one violet-blue petal and four pale blue ones, and the long purple anthers bend elegantly upwards. Because blue is an unusual colour for the tropics, it is prized by collectors and considered to be one of the finest blue flowered subtropical plants. It will tolerate rather cooler conditions than most Clerodendrums, as long as it is planted in a warm protected position in the garden.Click here for more info..
Cape Honeysuckle (Tecoma capensis) produces brilliant tubular, orange-red flowers sporadically throughout the year in warm regions. Modern hybrids come in shades of orange, red, yellow, apricot or salmon and the flowers are a wonderful contrast to the glossy, dark green leaves. It is used for xeriscaping; is a useful ornamental, screening or hedging plant; and grows easily in pots. To train it as a climber you will need to tie it to a support.Click here for more info..
Crane Flower (Strelitzia) forms large evergreen clumps of attractive grey-green leaves and startling flowers that resemble an exotic bird species. The flowers stand out above the foliage, at the tips of long stalks, and are bright orange with purple edges and bright blue tongues. Mature plants are very floriferous, with flowers in autumn, winter and spring. It is used as a bold structural plant which will give a tropical look to your garden.Click here for more info..
Escallonias are super evergreens which look good all year round; with their pleasantly aromatic, glossy dark green leaves, and pretty clusters of small bell-shaped flowers. They flower for a very long time from spring to autumn with blossoms ranging from deep crimson through various shades of pink to white. They make wonderful specimen shrubs in the mixed border and all make excellent formal or informal screening or hedging plants. Standard plants are available, making them ideal for small gardens.Click here for more info..
Glossy Abelia (Abelia x grandiflora hybrids) There are several named garden cultivars; some with darker pink flowers, or with yellow or variegated leaves, some with a creeping habit, and some that stay small. These shrubs remain attractive throughout the year and flower all season. They make excellent formal or informal hedging plants, and both the dwarf and tall varieties can be clipped into hedges. If left un-pruned they make wonderful screening plants.Click here for more info..
Golden Dewdrop (Duranta) has beautiful leaves and gorgeous drooping flowers all summer, or year round in tropical regions; followed by spectacular orange-yellow berries, and often the berries and flowers display on the plant at the same time. There are a number of varieties; some with spectacular flowers and fruits; and others with striking golden foliage. Flowers vary from mauve to white and violet to light blue. Hybrids vary greatly in height and suit all types of gardens; responding well to pruning.Click here for more info..
Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is the most colourful and versatile shrub for frost-free zones because it blooms practically year-round. Hybrids are available with single flower colours and combinations of colours; ranging from white through yellow and orange to scarlet and shades of pink; with single, ruffled and double sets of petals. Hybrids also vary in height, depending on the cultivar. These floriferous specimen plants also make a very attractive informal hedge or screen if clipped with hand pruners.Click here for more info..
Japanese Lantern (Hibiscus schizopetalus) is a vigorous, open, evergreen shrub that produces long arching branches that tend to droop. Its distinctive red, coral or pink flowers have frilly, finely divided petals which are bent backward; and it blooms continuously in summer and sporadically the rest of the year. The deep green, shiny leaves are a perfect backdrop for the intriguing flowers. Plant it as a screening plant or in the mixed shrub border. It also grows beautifully in containers and hanging baskets if it is pruned and fed regularly.Click here for more info..
Large Num-num (Carissa macrocarpa) is a highly ornamental, evergreen shrub or small tree which is planted for its leathery, dark green, waxy leaves that are a perfect backdrop for the white, sweetly scented, star-shaped flowers that occur sporadically throughout the year. The flowers are followed by delicious, bright red fruits the size of a small plum and are relished by humans, and birds. The Large num-num is an ideal subject for formal topiaries or clipped box hedges and grows easily in containers. It thorns make it an impenetrable hedge.Click here for more info..
Moonflower (Brugmansia X candida) is a breathtaking sight in summer when it is in full bloom and the entire plant is weighed down with huge, drooping, trumpet-shaped flowers. The flowers are beautifully scented at night and range in colour from pink, to yellow, white, orange and purple. Double flowering cultivars are also available. In warm climates they begin to flower in mid to late spring and continue into autumn. These long-lived woody trees or bushes can be trained to grow as a beautiful small tree or large shrub. Try planting them near a gazebo, patio or window where their scented flowers can be admired; or to add drama to mixed border.Click here for more info..
Potato Bush (Solanum rantonnetii) bloom throughout the year in warm climates and especially well in summer. Their delicate flowers can be violet, purple or white and are followed by small red fruits. These versatile plants can be pruned into any shape and are available as standard plants. They grow beautifully in pots and, because they flower continuously, are highly recommended for small gardens. They require regular clipping and pinching in order to keep them bushy and compact.Click here for more info..
Sand Olive (Dodonaea viscosa angustifolia) can be grown as a shrub or small tree, making it perfect for small gardens. The summer flowers are insignificant but the papery, winged seed pods are extremely attractive, starting off green and shading to a reddish-burgundy and then to brown and tan. It has shiny, bright green, sticky leaves and a blackish bark. Planted in the mixed shrubbery border, it will add both interest and colour. It makes a great specimen tree and is often used as an informal screen or hedge.Click here for more info..
Shuttlecock Flower (Calliandra selloi) produces unusual masses of soft pink and white flowers which can appear sporadically throughout summer and autumn, and the soft fern-like foliage is also most attractive. It makes an ideal screening plant for unsightly areas of the garden, and can be clipped into a hedge or left to grow as a large informal screen. This shrub will hold its own if planted in a large shrub border, and the feathery leaves are a good contrast for plants with bold foliage. It is available as a standard or 'lollipop' plant, making it perfect for small gardens.Click here for more info..
Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) includes hundreds of named cultivars with countless forms, colours, leaf types, sizes, and preferred growing conditions. Some are sturdy trees, others are small shrubs. Foliage colours range from chartreuse through dark green, or red to dark purple; others are variegated with various patterns of white and pink. Cultivars also display seasonal characteristics like the colour of new or mature leaves, extraordinary autumn foliage colour, bark that becomes more brightly coloured during the winter; as well as the colour and shape of samaras (fruits). Acers are synonymous with oriental gardens; and Acer palmatum is frequently used as an accent tree in Japan, providing gentle shade.Click here for more info..
Cape Holly (Ilex mitis) is a small to medium-sized tree with a straight trunk and dense, rounded crown of dark green leaves, carried on plum-coloured stalks; the new growth is a reddish brown. In spring or early summer insignificant, but sweetly scented small white flowers appear; male and female flowers are borne on separate trees. In autumn and winter (April to July) the female trees bear heavy crops of small red, holly-like berries, that are relished by birds. To ensure that you have females; plant a few and remove the extra male plants at a later stage. Its lovely planted in groves and young specimens have an attractive whitish bark; making it a good indigenous substitute for the silver birch. It tends to be bushy and needs to be shaped into a good shade tree. It makes a good hedging plant and can be clipped into almost any shape and size; making it perfect for formal gardens.Click here for more info..
Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) This unusual evergreen has a dome-shape and broad, glossy dark green leaves with serrated margins. It can be trained to grow as a bushy shrub or small single-stemmed tree. The hanging clusters of urn-shaped flowers appear in late summer. They are usually white, but occasionally flushed with pink. The flowers are followed in winter by edible yet tasteless, strawberry-like fruits. The fruits take about 12 months to mature, ripening from yellow, to orange and then to a beautiful red and are relished by birds. Since the fruit takes 12 months to ripen, the tree carries both mature fruit and flowers at the same time and is then incredibly beautiful. The branches become gnarled with age. It is an excellent tree for coastal gardens or in a sheltered spot inland. It is a superb specimen to grow in the middle of a lawn.Click here for more info..
Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) is a striking medium to large evergreen tree which can take 7 years to flower but it is sure worth the wait! The showy, scented flowers with their waxy white petals can reach 20 to 30cm across. Deciduous magnolias usually flower in spring before the leaves emerge, but Magnolia grandiflora flowers in flushes from summer until early autumn. It is not suitable for small gardens but can be grown in a large container. It is a good street tree and a perfect specimen tree for large gardens, parks and woodlands.Click here for more info..
Sweet Thorn (Acacia Karroo) has a variable growth habit, depending on the climate in which it is grown. It generally has a spreading, rounded crown and makes a wonderful small to medium sized shade tree. It bears a profusion of sweetly-scented, golden yellow flower balls between October and February, followed by seed pods from January to April. Its stout white thorns grow in pairs, varying in length from 1 to 7cm long, making it an excellent barrier plant.Click here for more info..
Wild Laburnum (Calpurnia aurea) varies in growth habit from a multi-stemmed shrub to a slender small tree; with a light open crown and drooping, light green leaflets. The bright yellow flowers hang in showy bunches and appear irregularly throughout the year. In the summer rainfall regions flowering peaks from mid to late summer, and in the winter rainfall regions they often flower best in late summer and autumn. It is perfect for small gardens; makes a wonderful lawn specimen; and is also most effective planted in groups. It makes a great informal hedge or screen, and grows easily in large containers.Click here for more info..
Frangipani (Plumeria) are exotic ornamental shrubs or small trees which remain popular in sub-tropical regions for their showy terminal clusters of large waxy flowers that bloom all summer and autumn; and last well in a vase. Plant them near your patio or windows, where their fragrance can be enjoyed at night. They also grow beautifully in pots. Each of the separate species bears differently shaped leaves and their growth habits are also distinct. They also vary in height depending on the cultivar.Click here for more info..
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