Welcome to Gardening in South Africa!

Ficus Burkei Picture courtesy www.kumbulanursery.co.zaDescription, History & Interesting Facts:

This beautiful tree is widespread in Africa, and in South Africa it occurs from the Eastern Cape, north to KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga, Limpopo, Gauteng and North West Province. It can be found in wet or dry forests, Savanna woodland, and rocky hillsides, up to an altitude of 1800 meters. South African fig wasps pollinate the trees, and some of the non-pollinating wasp species have also colonized planted populations, promoting the natural spread of this tree into the more arid western regions, and winter rainfall areas of the country. Ficus burkei was named after Joseph Burke (1812-1873) a British naturalist who collected a specimen from the Magaliesberg in 1841, while on an expedition.

Burke’s fig is a medium to large sized tree, 10 to 18m tall, with a well-shaped crown that can spread twice as wide as it is tall. In wetter habitats it remains evergreen but may be briefly deciduous in drier climates. Like others in the Ficus genus, it shares a common "strangling" growth habit that is found in many tropical forest species. This adaption enables the plant to find sufficient light and nutrients in the tough competition of other trees growing in their native jungle habitat. Because the fruits of Ficus trees are relished by birds, and dispersed by them far and wide, they often fall into the crevices between the branches of other trees, where they germinate and attach themselves to their host.  So, these trees often begin life as what is called “hemiepiphytes”- a plant that spends part of its life cycle as an epiphyte. An epiphyte is a plant that grows harmlessly upon another plant and derives its moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, and sometimes from debris accumulating around it. Later the tree starts sending roots downward, enveloping the host tree, while at the same time growing upward to reach into the sunlight zone above the canopy. The host tree now supplies the fig with nutrients and eventually, when the roots make contact with the ground and expand even further into the soil, the host plant is strangled and dies, leaving the fig to carry on growing without competition. As the host plant decomposes, it leaves large and sometimes even enormous cavities between the strangler’s roots.   Some Ficus species are also known as “rock splitters”, because if they germinate in the crack of a boulder, the plant will eventually split the boulder as it grows. These adaptable trees can also grow as terrestrials if the seed falls onto the soil and germinates.

The bark is pale to dark grey and smooth but gets rougher as the tree ages, often with aerial roots hanging down from branches. The leathery green leaves are usually hairless, elliptic in shape, and vary in length from 3 to 12cm long. Both the bark and leaves contain a white sticky latex. As with all figs, the flowers are found within the fruit. The yellowish figs can be densely hairy to almost hairless, and can be found singly, or in pairs, and are almost round, 10 to 20mm in diameter. The tree provides deep shade and, when the fruit ripens, attracts a multitude of birds, monkeys, baboons, and also bats. When the fruit drops, it is enjoyed by bushpigs and warthogs, as well as antelope such as bushbuck, duiker, nyala and klipspringer. A number of other small mammals also forage around the tree, and not forgetting humans who also eat the fruit!

Peters' Fig, Peters se Wildevy, Uhoro, Uluzi, Umthombe (Ficus petersii)

This species occurs in Kenya and Tanzania through Malawi, northern Mozambique, southern Zambia to northern Botswana, south eastern Angola and north eastern Namibia; with an outlying population in north eastern South Africa, Limpopo and Mpumalanga. It can reach 15m+ with an even wider spread, and produces small velvety figs, which turn yellow when ripe. A tree in full fruit is truly a spectacular sight! It has diverse economic and environmental uses across many faming and pastoral communities in Africa. Because it produces large amounts of highly nutritious foliage all year round, it is a very good source of dry fodder for livestock. The fruit, as well as the leaves, twigs and even the bark can be used, but their nutritional value varies with the seasons. Because it grows in tropical and subtropical climates, its growth habit, growth requirements and uses are the same as for Ficus burkei.

Uses:

Not only can a delicious jam can be made from the ripe fruits, the branches of Ficus can be used for firewood and a “bark cloth” is obtained by cutting out a strip of bark, which causes the tree to produce a fine, matted covering of red, slender roots over the wound. This is removed by local people and used for making mats, or twined to produce a strong rope. The creamy-brown wood is light and soft to moderately hard, with a rough texture. Although it is strong, easy to work, finishes smoothly and holds nails firmly; its durability is low, and it is easily attacked by termites. In local medicine the bark, latex and powdered rood is used to treat many ailments, including: colds, sore throat, dysentery, wounds, constipation, nosebleeds and eye cataracts. If cut or damaged, the plant exudes a copious amount of milky latex or rubber, which is useful for rural peoples; and the sticky juice from the pounded roots are used to trap small animals like hares and birds. Livestock also enjoy eating the dry or fresh leaves which drop to the ground.  

Ficus Burkei Picture courtesy www.kumbulanursery.co.zaIn the Garden:

Ficus species are highly recommended shade trees, often used on farms, large estates, schools, recreational areas, and at roadside layovers or picnic stops. If truncheons are planted closely together, they can stabilise the soil on slopes and prevent soil erosion. Because they have aggressive root systems, they should not be planted in a small garden or near buildings, swimming pools or pathways. The fruits ooze latex when broken off, so they are also not suitable for car parks, and should not be planted near dams or fish ponds, as the latex clogs the gills of fish. If your garden is too small for a Ficus, why not grow it in a large container on the patio, or train it into a bonsai.

Cultivation:

Ficus thrive in the warmer regions of South Africa but will tolerate moderate frost if covered until established. They love growing in full sun but will tolerate semi-shade.  Although they are moderately drought tolerant once mature, specimens do best if watered moderately during long, dry spells. Although they are evergreen, in drier climates they may shed leaves temporarily. Ficus species are very tolerant of most soil types but thrive on deep, moist and fertile soils. They are fast growing and if necessary, can be pruned back periodically.

Propagation:

Ficus is propagated quite easily from seed, air layering and large cuttings (20 to 50cm). Propagation is easy by taking cuttings up to 5 mm diameter and 20 to 50cm long, and can be done most times of the year from any suitably branched tree. Cut the base at an angle to expose more cambium and remove most of the lower leaves before dipping the cut end into a rooting hormone and burying it almost right up to the top leaves, in a fairly large pot or a pre-dug hole, filled with washed river sand. Keep the sand constantly moist and the cuttings should root within 6 to 8 weeks, but may only be ready to transplant a year later. Before collecting seed, allow it to mature on the trees, then pick and dry the mature figs. Open the fruits to release and scatter the seeds, or simply lightly cover the entire fig with soil, planting it where it is to grow.

Pests & Diseases:

The larval stages of a variety of insects feed on the leaves or figs of Ficus species, including caterpillars of butterflies and moths, some of which have developed remarkable strategies to overcome the sticky latex contained in the leaves.  Beetle larvae of the fig tree borer beetle bore into the branches and trunks, often targeting water-stressed, damaged, or older trees. Branches, leaves and fruit may be attacked by scale insects, mealybugs and fruit fly. Fungi can attack the genus, including: root rots, branch wilt and canker, leaf rusts, branch and foliage blights, fruit surface mould and spot rot. Most of the above are of minor importance and in the wild most trees survive just fine. If absolutely necessary, the trees can be sprayed with chemical sprays, but this would disrupt the natural cycle of life which these trees support, and is not recommended if you wish to attract wildlife. The tree is also susceptible to soil nematodes, and should not be grown in infested soil.

Warning:

The white, sticky sap of the fig family may cause a rash. Sensitive individuals may develop dermatitis after contact with the sap.

Flanders Poppy 'SingleRed' Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaCondensed Version:

The Flanders Poppy is one of the world’s most popular wildflowers, and it is easy to grow in almost any well-drained soil, as long as it receives full sun. This hardy spring or summer flowering annual is a delight when in full bloom and showing off its large scarlet, delicately papery flower petals, often with a dark blotch at the base. The flowers rise above the lacy foliage on long fuzzy stems which can reach heights of +- 60cm at maturity. The hairless seed capsules hold the tiny seeds which are released through pores that open at the top of the capsule. The seed can remain dormant in the soil for 80 years or more!

Ornamental cultivars are now available in many shades of scarlet and orange, to pink, yellow and white, in single, semi-double or double forms. If seeds are sown in autumn, they should flower from September, although in colder regions flowering may be delayed.

Poppies are good companions for tall growing bulbs like Dutch irises or tall perennials and annuals.

Flanders poppies are sometimes added to wildflower seed mixtures to create colourful annual displays. They are a good choice for any areas where ornamental grasses grow tall in summer. Because they are quite drought tolerant once established they are also useful water-wise annuals to add colour in xeriscaping schemes. They are essential in butterfly and bee gardens and make a great impact if planted in mass, in large garden beds and borders. Poppies love gardeners who pick for the vase – the more you pick them, the more they flower! If you don’t pick the blooms for the vase it is essential that you deadhead the spent blooms to keep them flowering.

For late spring and early summer blooms, sow seeds in early autumn. For an early summer showing, sow seeds in early spring after the last frost. A cold winter promotes germination, so in warmer regions, refrigerate the seed for a month before sowing. Germination should occur within 2 to 3 weeks.

Select a site which receives full sun and prepare your poppy beds well, because poppies are best sown directly into garden beds. If you are planting out trays of seedlings from your garden centre, select the smallest plants, as these will grow better in the long run. Instant colour bags can be planted out it the roots are not disturbed when planting. Poppies will grow in most fertile, well-drained soils which are well dug over and raked to a fine tilth. Add compost if necessary. Mix the seeds with compost to help you scatter them more evenly by hand, or use a broadcast spreader to randomly sow the seeds over the prepared soil. Sow as thinly as possible. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of fine soil or sand to protect them from birds and small animals. Water gently, and until germination, keep the soil consistently slightly moist.

Thin the seedlings out when they reach a height of about 12cm; spacing them +-15cm apart. Alternatively, you can leave them to grow as small clumps of about 4 plants, spaced +-30cm apart. As poppies have a delicate root system, they should be watered gently until the roots are fully developed. Keep the beds free of weeds. If the soil is prepared well as is reasonably fertile, further feeding is rarely needed, but if you wish, you can fertilise with a liquid or granular fertiliser.

Although poppies are water-wise once established, if there are prolonged periods of little rainfall they will require moderate watering to grow and flower well. In the winter rainfall regions they will need regular watering in summer. When you do water, saturate the root zone thoroughly, as shallow watering promotes a shallow root system. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation works well with poppies because it keeps the foliage dry, helping to prevent fungal diseases and root rot. If watering by hand with a hose, or with a sprinkler, water early in the day so the leaves have time to dry before evening. To encourage prolonged flowering, take off any dead heads throughout the flowering season, removing the bloom, along with the stem, down to the next leaf.

Shirley Poppy 'Double Mix' Picture courtesy www.ballstraathof.co.zaFull Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

The Flanders Poppy is one of the world’s most popular wildflowers, and it is easy to grow in almost any well-drained soil, as long as it receives full sun. This hardy spring or summer flowering annual is a delight when in full bloom and showing off its large scarlet, delicately papery flower petals, often with a dark blotch at the base. The flowers rise above the lacy foliage on long fuzzy stems which can reach heights of +- 60cm at maturity. The hairless seed capsules hold the tiny seeds which are released through pores that open at the top of the capsule. The seed can remain dormant in the soil for 80 years or more!

Ornamental cultivars are commonly called "Shirley Poppies" , and were originally selected by the Reverend William Wilks, who was the vicar of the parish of Shirley in England in the 1880s. They are now available in many shades of scarlet and orange, to pink, yellow and white, in single, semi-double or double forms. The flowers resemble Iceland poppies, except that their petals seem even more delicate.

If seeds are sown in autumn, they should flower from September, although in colder regions flowering may be delayed. Shirley poppies are good companions for tall growing bulbs like Dutch irises or tall perennials and annuals.

The origins of Papaver rhoeas is not known for certain but is thought to be native to southern Europe, North Africa and temperate Asia. It was probably introduced into Britain along with agricultural crops at least as far back as the Late Bronze Age; and likely was also introduced to northwest Europe in the seed-corn of early settlers. The Flanders poppy has now become naturalised and widespread throughout much of Europe, Asia and North America where it can be found growing on a wide range of soils, but is most prolific on light, calcareous soils. The Flanders poppy is pollinated by insects, particularly bumble bees.

Flanders poppies have been immortalized in poetry for the carpet of red beauty they create when in full bloom. The association between poppies and the cycle of life also has a long history, partly due to the fertile nature of the plant; and the delicate red flowers have long been recognised as symbols of fertility and death. Poppies are also associated with crop plants and the yearly cycle of sowing seeds and reaping the harvest. With a single plant producing up to 60,000 seeds, imagine how many millions of seeds would be in a single field! In Briton, after the Second World War, the common poppy suffered a decline as a result of intensive agriculture and the ever increasing use of herbicides. The policy of ‘set-aside’ was then introduced in the 1980’s in which farmers were rewarded for taking agricultural land out of production. This protected the poppies and now their delicate red flowers are an attractive feature of the countryside, where they grow abundantly in agricultural fields, roadsides and wasteland.

Due to the extent of ground disturbance in warfare during World War I, corn poppies bloomed in between the trench lines and ‘no man's lands’ on the Western front.  The contrast between this deathly sight and the following flush of poppies, seemingly ‘healing’ the broken land, inspired Canadian volunteer medical officer Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae to write the poem “In Flanders Fields”. These blood red flowers have been adopted as a symbol of remembrance since 11th November 1921 when the Royal British Legion held its first ‘Poppy Day’. The practice of wearing artificial poppies has been adopted in many countries on Remembrance Day, in honour and remembrance of veterans and those who have lost their lives during wars.

Poppy seeds have even been found mixed with Egyptian barley grains from around 2500 BC, and poppy seed heads were often associated with corn in images of the Roman crop goddess Ceres (or her Greek equivalent, Demeter).

The Millennium Seed Bank Partnership aims to save plant life worldwide and focuses on collecting seeds of plants which are under threat, as well as those which would be most useful for future use. The seeds are dried, packaged and stored at a sub-zero temperature in a seed bank vault. Seventeen collections of Papaver rhoea seeds are held in Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank based at Wakehurst in West Sussex.

Uses:

Poppy seeds have a nutty taste and are used extensively as flavouring in cakes and bread. The seed oil is highly esteemed in France and elsewhere. The fresh young leaves can be eaten raw or cooked like spinach, and are used to flavour soups and salads. They are best used when tender and before the plant has produced flower buds.

The petals are a source of red dye used in some medicines and wines. Dried petals are occasionally used to give colour to potpourri.

The flowers have been used in treating mild pain caused by earache, toothache and neuralgia, and an infusion of the petals is traditionally taken for coughs, insomnia and poor digestion.

In the Garden:

Flanders poppies are sometimes added to wildflower seed mixtures to create colourful annual displays. They are a ‘must-have’ for any wildflower meadow or cottage garden and a good choice for any areas where ornamental grasses grow tall in summer. Because they are quite drought tolerant once established, they are also useful water-wise annuals to add colour in xeriscaping schemes. They are essential in butterfly and bee gardens and make a great impact if planted in mass, in large garden beds and borders.
Poppies love gardeners who pick for the vase – the more you pick them, the more they flower! If you don’t pick the blooms for the vase it is essential that you deadhead the spent blooms to keep them flowering.

TOP TIP: The flowers will last for several days if you pick them as soon as you see a blush of colour in the unopened bud and hold the base of the stems for a few seconds in an open flame, or boiling water, before arranging them in cold water. Harvest the dried seed heads with their tall stems in late summer to dry; these will add interest to any dry or fresh floral arrangement.

Cultivation:

For late spring and early summer blooms, sow seeds in early autumn. For an early summer showing, sow seeds in early spring after the last frost. A cold winter promotes germination, so in warmer regions, refrigerate the seed for a month before sowing. Germination should occur within 2 to 3 weeks.

Select a site which receives full sun and prepare your poppy beds well, because poppies are best sown directly into garden beds. If you are planting out trays of seedlings from your garden centre, select the smallest plants, as these will grow better in the long run. Instant colour bags can be planted out it the roots are not disturbed when planting. Poppies will grow in most fertile, well-drained soils which are well dug over and raked to a fine tilth. Add compost if necessary. Mix the seeds with compost to help you scatter them more evenly by hand, or use a broadcast spreader to randomly sow the seeds over the prepared soil. Sow as thinly as possible. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of fine soil or sand to protect them from birds and small animals. Water gently, and until germination, keep the soil consistently slightly moist.

Thin the seedlings out when they reach a height of about 12cm; spacing them +-15cm apart. Alternatively, you can leave them to grow as small clumps of about 4 plants, spaced +-30cm apart. As poppies have a delicate root system, they should be watered gently until the roots are fully developed. Keep the beds free of weeds. If the soil is prepared well as is reasonably fertile, further feeding is rarely needed, but if you wish, you can fertilise with a liquid or granular fertiliser.

Although poppies are water-wise once established, if there are prolonged periods of little rainfall they will require moderate watering to grow and flower well. In the winter rainfall regions they will need regular watering in summer. When you do water, saturate the root zone thoroughly, as shallow watering promotes a shallow root system. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation works well with poppies because it keeps the foliage dry, helping to prevent fungal diseases and root rot. If watering by hand with a hose, or with a sprinkler, water early in the day so the leaves have time to dry before evening. To encourage prolonged flowering, take off any dead heads throughout the flowering season, removing the bloom, along with the stem, down to the next leaf.

Propagation:

If you want your plants to re-seed at the end of the season, leave a few plants to die down naturally and dig them into the beds. To ensure poppies come again from self-sown seed, the ground should be disturbed in the autumn; this gives space for the next generation of seedlings to establish.
If you wish to harvest and store seeds for next season, harvest the largest pods when they are fully mature and store in a paper bag or envelope, in a cool dark place.

WARNING: If you do not want the plants to seed themselves, it is vital that you remove all spent blooms throughout the growing season before they set seed and drop, because remember, the seed is viable in the soil for up to 80 years or more!

Problems, Pests & Diseases:

Look out for snails and slugs, especially when the plants are small. Soggy soil and damp foliage place the plant at risk of fungal diseases, so if the weather is humid and wet, watch out for powdery mildew, grey mould, root rot and damping off.

Warning:

Various alkaloids are present in all parts of the plant, making this species mildly toxic to grazing animals and potentially poisonous to horses, cattle and sheep if ingested in large quantities; but its acrid taste puts most animals off anyway, making it a very useful deer resistant variety to plant.

Caution:

The information contained within this website is for educational purposes only, recording the traditional uses of specific plants as recorded through history. Always seek advice from a medical practitioner before eating certain plants or starting a home treatment programme.

Go-green and recycle

Have you ever faced the dilemma of having to ruthlessly remove crops which are still producing because your garden is small, and according to the instructions on your seed packets, you need to sow next season’s crops now! If you don’t have space to do both directly in your garden beds, your only alternative is to start next season’s crops in seedling trays or pots. Once your current crops are finished producing, your new seedlings should be ready to plant out.  All you need to do this is a few recycled containers, good soil; and a warm, brightly lit to sunny windowsill indoors, or a covered, protected area outdoors.

The following projects are fun to do with your children and may even encourage them to eat more veggies too!

Being winter veggie season, I decided to experiment with some ideas I found online i.e. sowing seeds in egg boxes, empty toilet roll holders, as well as in plastic, store bought vegetable and yogurt tubs, to determine which worked the best. All my seedlings were germinated and grown on a sunny windowsill indoors and did remarkably well.

Besides your containers, all you need is good quality seedling soil. Do not skimp on the soil you use, buy a top quality seedling soil from your garden centre – one bag will go a long way.

Seeds sown into egg boxes:

Cut the boxes to fit a waterproof container which you can cover with cling wrap, or simply sow into the egg trays and close the lids until germination. Using a permanent marker, name the crop and the date sown before filling with soil and sowing the seeds. Spray wet with a fine spray, put the egg tray into your container, and cover with cling film until the seeds germinate. If the cling film gets too much condensation on it, you can open the container for a while before sealing it again. Once all the seeds have germinated remove the cling film.  Spinach and Calendula seeds were sown and both germinated very well. The only disadvantage with this method is that there is very little soil so the seedlings had to be transplanted into bigger containers very soon.

 Toilet roll pots:

The toilet roll pots worked extremely well and are really great for sowing larger seeds like peas, but if you are patient, small seeds can also be sown this way. Folding the bottom of the roll does take some time but the advantage of these larger pots is that the seedlings can be grown to planting out size without having to transplant them into larger containers. This will save you lots of time in the long run.

Also, it is amazing how many toilet rolls you can fit into a small square or rectangular container. The container need not have drainage holes as long as you water carefully, making this method great for growing seedlings on windowsills indoors without a muddy mess.

First, cut 4 slits more or less equally spaced and the same length into the toilet roll and fold them down, gently squeezing the roll into a square shape. Next fold the bottoms into one another as you would a cardboard box. Label the rolls with the crop sown and the date before placing them into your re-cycled container and filling with seedling soil.

Sow the seeds and cover lightly with soil, then spray thoroughly with water before sealing with cling wrap until germination takes place. If the cling film gets too much condensation on it, you can open the container for a while before sealing it again. Once all the seeds have germinated remove the cling film.

Once your seedlings are large enough to plant out into the garden, open the folded bottoms and plant into your garden beds, toilet roll and all. This method minimises root disturbance which is always good.

My peas grew so quickly that they needed to be planted out sooner than I expected, and I still had no space, so a plan had to be made.  “Empty yogurt containers to the rescue!”

Empty yogurt containers:

Large or small yogurt tubs with lids are great to use as seedling pots. Cut the bottom off, punch holes into the lid before replacing it and turning the container upside down. Label and sow your seeds directly into the tubs; or transplant seedlings in toilet rolls if they have outgrown their container and your garden space is still not ready. 

Only two weeks later the pea plants were thriving and had already developed a good root system in the yogurt tub.

To plant into the garden, remove the lid and slide the plants out gently into prepared planting holes. You can also remove the lid and plant the entire tub into the soil, leaving only a few centimetres above ground. This is great if you want to keep cats away from your plants, and helps protect from cut worms.

Plastic, store bought vegetable containers as seedling trays:

For very fine seed like rocket you can use plastic, store bought vegetable containers as seedling trays. Because they do not have divisions, it is easier to spread the small seeds over the soil. Spray moist after sowing and close the container until germination takes place. Often these containers have holes in their lids, so you will have to check regularly to see if further watering is required. If the bottom of the tray does not have drainage holes, you can punch in a few, or simply water carefully, using a fine mist spray to avoid over watering.   

With this method you will need to transplant the seedlings into bigger containers. Toilet rolls can be cut in half, and placed in a clear plastic container with a lid - a cake container works well. Seedlings can be transplanted into folded toilet roll holders as explained above or you can cut the rolls in half; for these half sized toilet roll holders it is not necessary to fold the bottoms. Place the rolls into the container, fill with good soil and carefully transplant the seedlings. Water gently with a mist spray and put the lid on for a few days, or until the new transplants are settled. The lid can be removed for a couple of hours if condensation is too great. You want to keep the seedlings moist but not soggy. This method worked well for tiny seeds.

In conclusion:

I won’t be sowing into egg boxes again as the seedlings had to be transplanted far too quickly due to lack of root depth. Seedling trays made from plastic veggie containers worked very well for sowing small seeds, which are then transplanted into toilet rolls. Sowing directly into toilet rolls definitely worked the best and required the least work. This method is especially good for larger seeds, but if you have patience even tiny seeds can be sown this way. Transplanting seedlings growing in toilet rolls directly into garden beds, or into yogurt tubs to grow them on further, also worked very well.

This little experiment was great fun and proves that you don’t have to spend a fortune in order to have a productive little vegetable patch. Alternative ways of gardening will not only save you money but will also to help to reduce land-fills. Toilet rolls decompose easily and plastic containers can be reused many times.

Happy veggie gardening,

Home-made Ant PoisonDo you have an ant problem? If you do, try this recipe I found online; it is working really well! I hate killing ants or any living creatures, but black sugar ant were invading my home relentlessly, and something had to be done about the little rascals! I have put the poison inside and outside the house, where I can see the ants are most active. It costs almost nothing to mix up a big batch, takes minutes to make, and within hours the ants were lapping up the sugary mixture.

IngredientsYou will need:

1 cup sugar
3 Tablespoons Borax
3 cups warm water

Mix the dry ingredients together and add the warm water slowly, stirring until everything is dissolved into the water. Soak a cotton ball in the mixture and place it into a bottle cap, tiny drip tray, or similar container. Place the poison close to where the ants are most active. They will take the poison down to their nest…ag shame!

Label and store the remainder of the poison in a glass bottle, to top when the syrup dries out or when you need to replace the cotton balls.

Caution:

Borax (sodium tetraborate decahydrate), according to one study, is not acutely toxic. It’s LD50 (median lethal dose) score is tested at 2.66 g/kg in rats, meaning that a significant dose of the chemical is needed to cause severe symptoms or death. Nevertheless, if you have pets or small children, you must keep this poison well away from them. Try putting the wet cotton ball inside a sealed plastic container, with small holes punched into the bottom, so the ants can still easily get in and out.

Boric Acid can be used in this recipe in place of Borax, but because it is a dangerous poison, and poisoning from this chemical can be acute or chronic, I do not recommend it. Acute boric acid poisoning usually occurs when someone swallows powdered roach-killing products that contain the chemical. Chronic poisoning occurs in those who are repeatedly exposed to boric acid.

Virginian Stocks 'Enchanted Evening' Picture courtesy www.mayford.co.zaCondensed Version:

This delightful little annual is hardy and deserves a place in every winter and spring garden. Not only does it flower profusely in delightful shades of pink, rose red, lilac and creamy-white, but it also smells heavenly. It must be the easiest annual to grow from seed and quickly produces small bushes +-20 to 30cm tall and 10 to 15cm wide.

Virginian stocks need to be sown in mass to be really effective in the garden, and go perfectly with all spring-time bloomers, especially bulbs. They also pair well with poppies and other taller spring varieties; in borders, along pathways, and even in the crevices between paving stones and rocks.

Virginian stocks are probably one of the easiest of all plants to grow from seed, thriving in part shade to full sun. They are hardy and grow throughout the country, doing well in coastal gardens; thriving in enriched sandy soil, but adapting to most well-drained garden soils. Seeds are sown directly into well prepared beds in autumn, and will take approximately 80 days to flower. Cover the seeds lightly with soil, or gently rake them into the soil. Keep moist until germination, which usually occurs within 7 to 20 days. Thin the young seedlings out to about 10 to 15cm apart and water regularly until they become established.

Full Version:

Description, History & Interesting Facts:

Malcolmia maritima is a popular annual garden plant from the Brassicaceae (Mustard) family and native to South Albania and Greece. It is naturalized in France, the Iberian Peninsula, the Apennine Peninsula and the Balkan Peninsula.

Because it occurs in sandy maritime habitats and in waste places, the species name “maritima” refers to this plant’s affinity for the seashore. The genus name “Malcomia” honours William Malcom, the founder of a seed company based in 18th century London.

This delightful little annual is hardy and deserves a place in every winter and spring garden. Not only does it flower profusely in delightful shades of pink, rose red, lilac and creamy-white, but it also smells heavenly. It must be the easiest annual to grow and quickly produces small bushes +-20 to 30cm tall and 10 to 15cm wide.

In the Garden:

Virginian stocks need to be sown in mass to be really effective in the garden, and go perfectly with all spring-time bloomers, especially bulbs. Try sowing them on top of taller bulbs like daffodils or Dutch Iris for a stunning effect. They also pair well with poppies and other taller spring flowers in borders; along pathways, and even in the crevices between paving stones and rocks. Mix it with the night scented stock for brightness and wonderful fragrance.

Because of its rapid growth and appealing fragrance, this plant has been a special favourite of young gardeners for generations. Children love to sow the tiny seeds and watch them grow, so if you see seed packets for sale, grab a few!

Cultivation/Propagation:

Virginian stocks are probably one of the easiest of all plants to grow, thriving in part shade to full sun. They are hardy and grow throughout the country, doing well in coastal gardens; thriving in enriched sandy soil, but adapting to most well-drained garden soils.

Because the seeds are tiny, the hardest part of growing Virginian stocks is scattering the seeds wide enough apart to allow each plant to grow to its full potential. To make sowing easier, add the packet of seed to a bucket full of slightly damp, fine compost and mix together well before sowing. Adding cake flour to the mixture will lighten it so when you spread the soil over the beds, you will be able to see where you have sown. This is especially good when small children are sowing the seeds.

Seeds are sown directly into well prepared beds in autumn, as soon as the weather has cooled down significantly, and will take approximately 80 days to flower. Cover the seeds lightly with soil, or gently rake them into the soil. Keep moist until germination, which usually occurs within 7 to 20 days, depending on soil temperatures. Thin the young seedlings out to about 10 to 15cm apart and water regularly until they become established. Despite seed packet warnings to the contrary, if your plants germinate too close together, you can transplant them to a different location, but this is quite time consuming.

Mature plants are fairly drought tolerant, but will appreciate moderate watering in dry weather. For a continuous display of blooms, sow in various places in the garden at two to three-week intervals.  Sowings made in curves, rather than straight lines, often create a more pleasing effect. Remove weeds regularly by hand, as they compete with the seedlings for light and water.

After the flowers fade, slender seed ponds will develop. Wait until the seed heads have fully formed before cutting them off and placing into a large paper bag or envelope. Once completely dry, carefully strip the seeds out of the pods and store in a cool, dry place until next season.

Pests & Diseases:

If grown correctly, Virginian stocks do not suffer from any serious pests or diseases.

Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaThis groundcover rose spreads widely and willingly re-sprouts with full white blooms.

It is useful for borders, large beds, in rockeries, on embankments and in pots.

Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaThis Fairytale shrub rose produces colossal candelabra’s of up to 30 fairly big, full blooms. Each bloom has the popular old fashioned English Rose shape but have firm stiff petals that withstand heat and rain.

Excellent for filling large beds and substantial borders, or for growing in large pots.

Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaLike ‘Iceberg’ is a large shrub rose that re-sprouts short flowering stems from the old wood. Its’ fully petalled pink blooms are overlaid by deep salmon and a yellow base to each of the 80 petals.

Suitable for planting along fences or scattered around the garden as free standing specimens.

Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaThis wonderfully fragrant novelty encompasses the best traits of its parents, two very popular varieties: ‘Sheila’s Perfume’ and ‘Just Joey’.

The large, hybrid tea shaped blooms have the distinctive ‘Just Joey’ frilled petal edges, and are a warm blend of apricot and orange, with a blush of pink.

The plant will reach shoulder height, which makes it an ideal cut flower.

Picture courtesy www.ludwigsroses.co.zaFloribundas that remain compact throughout our long growing season are very useful landscape plants.

‘Rooi Rok’, is from the same breeding line as our tough Ayoba roses, and is the perfect choice in a true red for beds and borders.

The small clusters of full, unblemished and unfading red blooms are produced on short stems, and even the basals bearing large clusters stay within the compact height of the bush without distorting its nicely balanced compactness. The 12 to 15 petals are firm and retain their fresh look.